Graduation date: 1986

Typescript. / Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Hawaii at Manoa, 1990. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 121-125) / Microfiche. / xv, 125 leaves, bound ill. 29 cm

Graduation date: 1998 / The figures in the original have a moray pattern. Best scan available.

A field experiment designed to test the hypothesis that infragravity and lower frequency waves influence the patterns of erosion and deposition on the beach foreshore has been carried out. The data show coherent fluctuations in the foreshore sediment level which can be related to low frequency wave motions. The fluctuations have heights of up to 6 cm with typical time scales of 8 to 10 minutes. They can be characterized in two ways: by the progression of the fluctuations up the foreshore slope (landward), and by the decrease in the RNS height of the fluctuations as they progress landward. The velocity of migration also changes as the fluctuations progress landward. Analysis of runup time series obtained by time-lapse photography concurrent with the sediment level measurements reveals long-period waves of undetermined origin at frequencies and phases which strongly suggest that the waves force the original perturbation in sediment level. In order to better understand the characteristics of these sediment level fluctuations, a numerical model of sediment transport on the foreshore has been developed. Gradients in sediment transport define erosional and depositional areas on the foreshore. Runup velocities were modeled and the results were used in the sediment transport model. The model predicts that any perturbation in foreshore elevation will progress landward while decreasing in amplitude and in velocity, thereby matching the field observations. Relationships between beach slope and the profile response clarified by this model are used to explain the initial formation of the perturbations of sediment level. / Graduation date: 1984

In 1996, Beach et al. first proposed the idea of mounting an echo-sounder on a Waverunner to measure nearshore beach profiles. This thesis discusses the Coastal Profiling System, an extension of the original work, which has been utilized to measure nearshore bathymetry at selected sites along the coasts of North Carolina, Oregon, and Washington. Position of the Coastal Profiling System is accurately measured five times per second using a differential global positioning system (DGPS), while depth below the hull is measured by an acoustic echo-sounder. Surveys can be conducted in waves up to 3 m and in depths of 1-15 m. The effects of waves, tides, and set-up are eliminated by the co-collection of position and depth data. In October 1997, extensive testing of the system took place at the SandyDuck '97 field experiment in Duck, NC. Nearshore bathymetric surveys were taken simultaneously by the Coastal Research Amphibious Buggy (CRAB) and the Coastal Profiling System (CPS). Comparison of the CPS with CRAB measurements interpolated to the same locations showed a mean bias of 4.6 cm too shallow in the vertical and standard deviations about the bias of 5.5 cm. The largest differences occur over the steeply sloping flanks of sand bars. The bias statistic, of central interest to these tests, is confused by the potential of boat tilt and by possible errors in the CRAB data itself. In July & August 1998, the system was tested as a tool for long-term coastal monitoring by the Southwest Washington Coastal Erosion Study in a regional morphology monitoring program (Ruggiero et al., 1997). A 2-3 km section in approximately the center of each of the four sub-cells of the Columbia River littoral cell, and an anomalous fifth site, was surveyed to map the morphology of each region. Alongshore-averaged profiles were decomposed into underlying AX[superscript m] profiles and deviations from this equilibrium profile. The mean of the exponents was close to 2/3 with m=0.70, but ranged between sites from 0.56 to 0.79. Shape parameters between 0.027 and 0.038 were estimated. Nearshore slopes (0-1 km cross-shore) were calculated from the exponential profile in the dissipative range with a minimum of 0.0067 and a maximum of 0.0089. However, no correlation was seen between the shape parameters and the 1 km nearshore slopes. An analysis of the deviations of the alongshore-averaged profiles from the equilibrium profile provided an objective method to determine sand bar positions from zero-down-crossings. Each site was characterized by a minimum of two sand bars in 2-6.5 m (NAVD 88) depths with heights of 0.2-2 m, lengths of 164-949 m and volumes of 48-534 m��/m. An additional bar in the swash zone between the +1 m elevation and 1 m depth contour was resolved in some cross-shore profiles. The crest of the bar largest in height was located at 3-4.5 NAVD 88 m at four of the five sites suggesting the profiles vary on similar cross-shore length scales amongst the sub-cells. A series of surveys in April, June, and October 1998 at the northern most site in Ocean City, WA demonstrated onshore bar migration and seaward accretion of the foreshore. This seasonal response was further quantified between August and October at Fort Canby. Three nearshore profiles surveyed by Willard Bascom et al. (1954) in the 1940s were reoccupied to compare the shape of the morphology 50 years ago to present. These profiles demonstrate accretion of approximately 2 m elevation gains in the nearshore and 26-165 m of shoreline change. Although the Coastal Profiling System is a highly accurate, mobile and efficient method to obtain nearshore profiles, several improvements have been suggested. Future modifications to the system should include an increase in the precision of the echo-sounder measurements, higher sampling rates, and improvement of the user interface. Additional components may include an onboard navigation system, a thermister to measure temperature and salinity, and a motion sensor to measure roll and pitch of the vehicle. / Graduation date: 1999

In near-shore transforming seas, as waves approach the shoreline, wave shoaling and sometimes wave breaking take place due to the decreasing water depth. When a ship advances through the transforming seas, the ship body and waves interact with each other substantially and can lead to unknown motions of the ship hull. The physical process of how the wave transforms in the surf zone and how the vehicle actually behaves when it passes through the transforming seas is a complicated issue that triggers considerable research interest. The goal of my research is to characterize the dynamics of a high-speed surface ship model in transforming seas through a parametric numerical study of the shipwave interactions. In this study, the vehicle of interest is a surface effect ship (SES) and we aim to contribute to developing a methodology for simulating the transforming wave environment, including wave breaking, and its interactions with the SES. The thesis work uses a commercial software package ANSYS Fluent to generate numerical waves and model the interface between water and air using the volume of fluid (VoF) method. A ship motion solver and the dynamic mesh are used to enable the modeled ship to perform three degree-of-freedom (DoF) motion and the near-region of the ship hull to deform as well as re-mesh. Non-conformal meshes with hybrid compositions of different cell types and various grid sizes are used in the simulations for different purposes. Five user-defined functions (UDFs) are dynamically linked with the flow solver to incorporates ship/grid motions, wave damping and output of the numerical results. A series of steps were taken sequentially: 1) validation for ship motions including simulation of a static Wigley hull under steady flows to compare against previous experimental results by other researchers, and the comparison between the static SES model under steady flows and the moving SES model advancing in the calm water; 2) study of the ship with 3 DoF advancing in calm water of both constant depth and varying depth; 3) validation for numerical waves, including predictions of numerically progressive waves in both a regular tank and a tank with a sloped fringing reef to compare with theoretical and experimental results, respectively; 4) investigation of the transforming characteristics of the wave traveling over the sloped fringing reef, which mimics the near-shore wave environment and a study of the dynamics of the SES through transforming waves. We find that the flow solver used in this study reliably models the wave profiles along the ship hull. The comparison between a static SES in a current and a moving SES in calm water at the same Froude number shows that although the velocity fields around the vehicle are significantly different, the wave profiles inside and outside the rigid cushion of the vehicle are similar and the resistance force experienced by the vehicle in the two scenarios agree well over time. We conducted five numerical simulations of the vehicle traveling from shallow water to deep water across the transition zone for different Froude numbers. From the results, we find that as the Froude number increases, the wave resistance force on the vehicle becomes larger in both shallow water and deep water. In addition, the overall mean resistance force experienced by the vehicle over the whole trip increases with the Froude number. Statistical analysis of the wave motions suggests that the energy flux decreases dramatically in the onshore direction as the waves break. The more severe the wave-breaking process, the greater the decrease in energy flux. Both the increase of Froude number and the wave steepness apparently increase the resistance force on the vehicle in the shallow water. This thesis work captures the impact of the transforming characteristics of the waves and closely replicates the behavior of how waves interact with a ship in transforming seas through numerical modeling and simulation. / Includes bibliography. / Dissertation (Ph.D.)--Florida Atlantic University, 2017. / FAU Electronic Theses and Dissertations Collection

The circular wave basin provides a means of physically modeling the nearshore without the typical problems associated with end walls. Three different coastal processes were examined to demonstrate the use of a spiral wavemaker in a circular wave basin. These were longshore currents, shear waves, and groin circulation. A beach was designed and constructed to concentrate breaking in a narrow region and minimize wave reflection. Currents in the longshore direction were generated by both the motion of the wavemaker and oblique wave approach. Two methods for measuring nearshore currents were employed. First, a 3-D acoustic current meter was positioned at various locations in the cross shore and the local radial and tangential velocities were recorded. Second, a video camera was placed approximately 8 meters above the wave basin to record the motion of a ball in the nearshore. The video tape was digitized by an image processor and the motion of the ball was determined. Measurements of nearshore circulation in the circular wave basin were used to investigate longshore currents, shear waves, and groin circulation. Average measured longshore current profiles in the cross shore were compared with numerical model predictions. An analysis of the existence of shear waves in the circular wave basin was performed by calculating longshore and cross shore current spectra. Particular attention was focused on the low frequency end of the spectra where shear waves are most energetic. Model groins were placed in the circular wave basin and measured currents were compared to predicted circulation patterns. All three applications indicated that the circular wave basin is a useful device for simulating coastal processes in a laboratory environment. / Graduation date: 1992

Graduation date: 1998

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Joint Program in Applied Ocean Science and Engineering (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Ocean Engineering; and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution), 2000. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 134-141). / by Nicole Marie Suoja. / Ph.D.

Thesis (MScEng)-- Stellenbosch University, 2013. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: The port of Ngqura is situated on the east coast of South Africa. Since its first operational winter excessive vessel motions have interrupted container shipping operations and lead to mooring line failure. A major component contributing to the excessive motions is the presence of seiching in the port, resonating long waves. This study investigates the long wave generation, penetration into the port and subsequent resonance in the vicinity of the problem berths. An extensive literature review identified two predominant types of long waves along the coast of South Africa. Long waves with periods over 12 min generated by resonant air-water coupling and then shorter long waves between 30 s and 6 min attributed to bound long wave energy and broadly speaking, surf beat. A review of the state of the art long wave modelling techniques was included and contributed to the methodology in this study. Analysis of simultaneous measurements from the outside and inside of the port confirmed the generating mechanism of the long waves to be storm systems also responsible for generating short waves. Long waves outside the port were found to be on average 8% of the height of the short waves. On average 90% of the long wave height outside the port penetrated the port. The measurements further identified distinct resonating periods of the long wave energy inside the port. Calibrated Boussinesq wave models allowed for identification of how long waves penetrated the port and subsequently resonated. Both surface elevation measurements and white noise spectra were used as inputs. The penetration mechanisms were attributed to direct diffraction around the main breakwater as well as reflection off the beach south of the port leading to refraction and reflection off the lee side of the main breakwater. Tests with both free and bound long waves proved that at least for some period intervals the long wave energy was indeed bound to short waves. The excessive vessel motions are attributed to berths positioned in line with nodes created by the resonating long waves; nodes are characterized by strong horizontal currents which can induce surge motions in vessels. Various long waves between the period intervals of 45 s to 125 s resonate in the port to generate nodes at the berths of interest. In conclusion, the port of Ngqura is susceptible to a range of long wave periods resulting in significant basin oscillations which present nodes at mooring places. As a result of the analyses in this study the mechanisms of interaction between the port, port basins and the long waves penetrating into the port directly, or via the surf zone as surf beats, have been modelled, documented and better understood. This provides the potential for better prediction of severe long wave events and for the investigation of feasible mitigation measures to prevent damage to moored ships in the port. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Die Ngqura hawe is aan die ooskus van Suid-Afrika geleë. Sedert die hawe se eerste operasionele winterseisoen, het oormatige skeepsbewegings operasies van behoueringskepe onderbreek en gelei tot faling van vasmeertoue. Die teenwoordigheid van langgolf resonansie is ‘n groot bydraende faktor tot die oormatige skeepsbewegings. Hierdie studie ondersoek die opwekking, penetrasie en gevolglike resonansie van langgolwe in die areas aangrensend tot die problematiese kaaie. ‘n Uitgebreide literatuurstudie het twee tipes langgolwe aan die Suid-Afrikaanse kus geïdentifiseer, naamlik langgolwe met periodes langer as 12 minute wat deur resonante lug-water koppeling opgewek word en korter langgolwe met periodes tussen 30 s en 6 min wat aan gebonde langgolfenergie of, meer algemeen, surf beat toegeskryf word. Verder is ‘n studie rakende die jongste langgolfmodelleringstegnieke ook uitgevoer waaruit die metodiek van hierdie studie bepaal is. ‘n Analise van gelyktydige opmetings binne en buite die hawe het bevestig dat kortgolwe wat deur stormsisteme gegenereer word, die opwekkingsmeganisme van lang golwe is. Daar is bevind dat langgolwe buite die hawe gemiddeld 8% so hoog soos kort golwe is. ‘n Gemiddeld van 90% van die langgolfhoogte het die hawe penetreer. Die opmetings het ook verder duidelike resonansieperiodes van langgolfenergie binne die hawe aangedui. Gekalibreerde Boussinsq-golfmodelle is gebruik om te indentifiseer hoe langgolwe die hawe binnedring en gevolglik resoneer. Beide oppervlakmetings en wit geraas spektra is as invoerwaardes vir die model gebruik. Die penetrasiemeganismes is toegeskryf aan diffraksie rondom die hoof hawemuur asook refleksie vanaf die strand, suid van die hawe, wat lei tot refraksie en refleksie teen die lykant van die hoof hawemuur. Toetse met vry langgolwe het bewys dat die langgolfenergie, vir ten minste sommige periode intervalle, aan die kort golwe vebonde is. Die oormatige skeepsbewegings is toegeskryf aan die kaaie wat in lyn met nodes van die langgolfresonansie geposisioneer is. Nodes word gekarakteriseer deur sterk horisontale strome wat surge bewegings in skepe kan veroorsaak. Verskeie langgolwe met periode intervalle tussen 45 s tot 125 s resoneer in die hawe en vorm nodes by die kaaie van belang. Ten slotte, die Ngqura hawe is vatbaar vir ‘n reeks langgolfperiodes wat ossilasies in die bekkens van die hawe veroorsaak en nodes naby kaaie vorm. As gevolg van die analises in hierdie studie is die meganismes van interaksie tussen die hawe, sy bekkens en langgolwe wat die hawe direk of via die brandersone binnedring gemodelleer, gedokumenteer en beter verstaan. Hierdeur is die potensiaal vir beter voorspelling van ernstige langgolftoestande verhoog en is dit moontlik gemaak om lewensvatbare oplossings vir skade aan vasgemeerde skepe te ondersoek.