Typescript, etc. / Digitized by Kansas State University Libraries

Thesis (Sc.D.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Earth and Planetary Science, 1981. / Microfiche copy available in Archives and Science / Vita. / Bibliography: leaves 170-178. / by Kevin Michael Bohacs. / Sc.D.

Thesis (M.S.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Earth and Planetary Sciences, 1981. / MICROFICHE COPY AVAILABLE IN ARCHIVES AND LINDGREN. / Bibliography: leaves 138-141. / by James Douglas Walker. / M.S.

O objetivo deste estudo foi caracterizar a dinâmica das ondas de areia presentes no interior da Baía de São Marcos em São Luís, estado do Maranhão, utilizando dados de campanhas de batimetria bimestral e granulometria, para determinar a geomorfologia de fundo, além de séries temporais eulerianas de velocidade e variação da maré dos anos de 2011 e 2012 para validar um modelo hidrodinâmico local. O posicionamento horizontal e vertical nos conjuntos de dados batimétricos, digitalizados em transectos longitudinais, forneceu corredores de transporte que concordaram com os obtidos por meio do modelo numérico. Foram registradas ondas de areia com comprimento e altura superiores a 342 m e 6 m, respectivamente. A migração horizontal chegou a 1,8 m/dia e as intensidades de corrente a 1.84 m/s sobre o campo de ondas de areia e 2.58 m/s nos canais adjacentes. O Cabeço do Mearim e a Ilha do Medo são os principais responsáveis pela divisão dos regimes hidrodinâmicos locais forçados pela maré, os quais controlam os padrões morfológicos e migratórios das feições de fundo. Os mapas residuais de velocidade aliados aos coeficientes de dominância de maré calculados demonstraram que as principais forçantes do sistema são intensas nos canais e ao sul da Ilha do Medo e menos pronunciadas nas planícies rasas do sistema estuarino. As técnicas utilizadas neste estudo possibilitaram o estabelecimento de um modelo conceitual de corredores de transporte que rege o equilíbrio dinâmico do sistema local. Esses corredores são formados principalmente pelo canal principal da Baía de São Marcos localizado na porção oeste das feições submersas, predominando o transporte das correntes de vazante, pelo Canal do Boqueirão no qual predominam as correntes de maré enchente e pelo canal transversal situado a leste das ondas de areia, responsável por fluxos principalmente de maré enchente que podem transportar sedimentos ou energia para o sistema de canais principais. Este modelo forneceu conhecimento basal para o planejamento de atividades de uso, exploração e conservação dos sedimentos na Baía de São Marcos / The aim of this study was to characterize sand wave dynamics in São Marcos Bay (Maranhão state). Using data obtained from consecutive bathymetry campaigns, bottom sediment distribution, tide level and stationary current meters time series at this site from 2011-2012 years, bed morphology evolution was determined and a process-based hydrodynamic model was validated. Registering consecutive sand wave positioning in longitudinal transects provided bed features migration, generating transport pathways that agreed with model results. Sand waves observed were up to 6 m high and 342 m long and migrate up to 1.8 m/day, under depth-averaged current conditions up to 1.84 m/s above the sand wave field and 2.58 m/s in the adjacent channels. Cabeço do Mearim and Medo Island represents the features responsible for separate both tidal hydrodynamic regimes that control bottom migration and morphologic patterns. Residual current distribution and tide dominance coefficients showed that the controlling hydrodynamic forces of the system are more intense in the main channels and southward Medo Island, while weaken as depth reduces eastward. The methods used in this study provide a reliable conceptual model of transport pathways that control the local dynamic equilibrium, composed by the main channel of Sao Marcos Bay, where ebb dominance occurs, by the Boqueirão Channel strongly dominated by flood currents and by the transversal channel located eastward the bottom features, also flood dominated and responsible for transport sediment and energy to the sand wave field. This approach provided the bases for planning activities regard use, conservation and exploitation of sediments in São Marcos Bay

Shoreline sand waves are shoreline undulations with a length scale of several kilometres and a time scale of years to decades. They occur on many coasts, migrating in the direction of the dominant littoral drift and they introduce a variability into the shoreline position that can be greater than the long term coastal trend. The objective of this thesis is to provide more insight into the formation and dynamics of shoreline sand waves and, in particular, to explore the role of the so called high angle wave instability. Previous studies showed that the shoreline can be unstable under very oblique wave incidence. This high angle wave instability develops due to the feedback of shoreline changes and the associated changes in the bathymetry into the wave field. Wave propagation over this perturbed bathymetry leads to specific gradients in the alongshore transport that can cause the growth and migration of shoreline sand waves. In this thesis a quasi 2D non-linear morphodynamical model is improved and used to explore high angle wave instability and predict the formation and evolution of shoreline sand waves. The model assumes that the large scale and long term shoreline dynamics is controlled by the wave driven alongshore transport so that the details of the surfzone morphodynamics are not resolved. It overcomes some of the limitations of previous modelling studies on high angle wave instability. The wave field is computed with a simple wave module over the evolving bathymetry and an empirical formula is used to compute the alongshore transport. Cross-shore dynamics is described in a parameterized way and the model is capable of describing shoreline perturbations with a finite and dynamic cross-shore extent. The conditions under which shoreline instability can lead to the formation of shoreline sand waves are refined. Generic simulations with constant wave conditions and random initial perturbations show that the shoreline becomes unstable when the wave incidence angle at the depth of closure (i.e., the most offshore extent of the shoreline perturbations) is larger than a critical angle of about 42 degrees and shoreline sand waves develop in unison. The cross-shore dynamics plays an essential role because it determines the offshore extent of the shoreline perturbations. Using default model parameters, wave conditions and cross-shore profile, the sand waves develop with wavelengths between 2 and 5 km, the time scale for their formation is between 5 and 10 years and they migrate downdrift at about 0.5 km/yr. Simulations with a localized large scale perturbation trigger the formation of a downdrift sand wave train. Larger wave obliquity, higher waves and shorter wave periods strengthen the shoreline instability. A more realistic wave climate, with alternating high and low angle wave incidence reduces the potential for shoreline instability. A percentage of about 80% of high angle waves is required for sand wave formation. It is demonstrated that the range of low wave angles that can occur on a coast is larger than the range of high wave angles, and that the stabilizing effect produced by low angle waves (causing diffusion) is bigger than the destabilizing effect produced by high angle waves (causing growth and migration). Even if high angle waves are not dominant, the instability mechanism might still play a role in the persistence and downdrift migration of large scale shoreline perturbations. The model results are in qualitative agreement with observations of shoreline sand waves. The quasi 2D approach provides new insight into the physical mechanisms behind high angle wave instability and the occurrence of a minimal and optimal length scale for sand wave formation. Essential physical processes are wave energy dispersion due to wave refraction, wave energy focusing near the crest of a sand wave and the monotonic decrease of the gradients in alongshore transport for increasing length scales. / Les ones de sorra a la línia de costa són ondulacions de la línia de costa amb una escala espacial de kilòmetres i una escala temporal d’anys a dècades. Ocorren a moltes costes, migren en la direcció del transport litoral i introdueixen una variabilitat a la línia de costa que pot ser major que la seva tendència a llarg termini. L’objectiu d’aquesta tesi és estudiar amb més profunditat la formació i la dinàmica de les ones de sorra i, més concretament, explorar el rol de l’anomenada inestabilitat d’angle gran. Estudis previs van demostrar que la línia de costa pot ser inestable en cas d’onades obliqües que incideixen amb un angle gran. Aquesta inestabilitat d’angle gran es produeix degut a la retroalimentació entre els canvis a la línia de costa (i els que conseqüentment ocorren a la batimetria) i els canvis al camp d’onades. La propagació de les onades sobre la batimetria pertorbada crea gradients del transport de sediment longitudinal que causen el creixement i la migració de les ones de sorra. En aquesta tesi s’ha millorat un model morfodinàmic quasi 2D i no lineal per usar-lo per explorar la inestabilitat d’angle gran i predir la formació i evolució de les ones de sorra. El model assumeix que la dinàmica a gran escala i llarg termini està dominada pel transport de sediment longitudinal produït per les onades de manera que la morfodinàmica de la zona de rompents no es detalla. S’han superat algunes de les limitacions dels estudis anteriors de modelat de la inestabilitat d’angle gran. El camp d’onades es calcula amb un mòdul senzill de propagació sobre la batimetria canviant i el transport longitudinal s’estima usant una fórmula empírica. La dinàmica transversal es parametritza per descriure pertorbacions de la línia de costa amb una extensió transversal finita i dinàmica. S’han refinat les condicions sota les quals la inestabilitat d’angle gran produeix la formació d’ones de sorra. Les simulacions amb condicions constants d’onades i pertorbacions inicials aleatòries mostren que la línia de costa esdevé inestable quan l’angle d’incidència a la profunditat de tancament és major que un angle de 42 graus i les ones de sorra es desenvolupen a l’uníson. La dinàmica transversal té un rol essencial al determinar l’extensió transversal de les pertorbacions. Usant els valors per defecte dels paràmetres del model, les ones de sorra tenen espaiats d’entre 2 i 5 km i temps de creixement d’entre 5 i 10 anys, i migren en la direcció del transport a uns 0.5 km/any. Les simulacions també mostren que una pertorbació inicial localitzada desencadena la formació d’un tren d’ones de sorra. Com més obliqües i grans són les onades i com menor és el seu període major és la inestabilitat. Un clima d’onatge més realista, alternant onades d’angle d’incidència gran i petit, redueix el potencial de la inestabilitat d’angle gran. Calen almenys un 80% d’onades d’angle gran perquè es formin ones de sorra. El rang d’onades d’angle petit que poden succeir en una costa és major que el d’onades d’angle gran, i l’efecte estabilitzador de les onades d’angle petit (que produeix difusió) és més important que l’efecte desestabilitzador de les onades d’angle gran (que produeix creixement i migració). Fins i tot si les onades d’angle gran no dominen, el mecanisme d’inestabilitat pot tenir un paper important en la persistència i migració de pertorbacions de la línia de costa a gran escala. Els resultats s’assemblen qualitativament a les observacions d’ones de sorra. L’enfocament quasi 2D permet estudiar més detalls del mecanisme físic que hi ha darrere de la inestabilitat d’angle gran i del fet que existeixin longituds d’ona mínima i òptima per la formació d’ones de sorra. Els processos físics essencials són la dispersió de l’energia de l’onatge degut a la refracció, la concentració d’energia de les onades a les crestes de les ones de sorra i el decreixement monòton del transport litoral quan augmenta l’escala espacial.

O objetivo deste estudo foi caracterizar a dinâmica das ondas de areia presentes no interior da Baía de São Marcos em São Luís, estado do Maranhão, utilizando dados de campanhas de batimetria bimestral e granulometria, para determinar a geomorfologia de fundo, além de séries temporais eulerianas de velocidade e variação da maré dos anos de 2011 e 2012 para validar um modelo hidrodinâmico local. O posicionamento horizontal e vertical nos conjuntos de dados batimétricos, digitalizados em transectos longitudinais, forneceu corredores de transporte que concordaram com os obtidos por meio do modelo numérico. Foram registradas ondas de areia com comprimento e altura superiores a 342 m e 6 m, respectivamente. A migração horizontal chegou a 1,8 m/dia e as intensidades de corrente a 1.84 m/s sobre o campo de ondas de areia e 2.58 m/s nos canais adjacentes. O Cabeço do Mearim e a Ilha do Medo são os principais responsáveis pela divisão dos regimes hidrodinâmicos locais forçados pela maré, os quais controlam os padrões morfológicos e migratórios das feições de fundo. Os mapas residuais de velocidade aliados aos coeficientes de dominância de maré calculados demonstraram que as principais forçantes do sistema são intensas nos canais e ao sul da Ilha do Medo e menos pronunciadas nas planícies rasas do sistema estuarino. As técnicas utilizadas neste estudo possibilitaram o estabelecimento de um modelo conceitual de corredores de transporte que rege o equilíbrio dinâmico do sistema local. Esses corredores são formados principalmente pelo canal principal da Baía de São Marcos localizado na porção oeste das feições submersas, predominando o transporte das correntes de vazante, pelo Canal do Boqueirão no qual predominam as correntes de maré enchente e pelo canal transversal situado a leste das ondas de areia, responsável por fluxos principalmente de maré enchente que podem transportar sedimentos ou energia para o sistema de canais principais. Este modelo forneceu conhecimento basal para o planejamento de atividades de uso, exploração e conservação dos sedimentos na Baía de São Marcos / The aim of this study was to characterize sand wave dynamics in São Marcos Bay (Maranhão state). Using data obtained from consecutive bathymetry campaigns, bottom sediment distribution, tide level and stationary current meters time series at this site from 2011-2012 years, bed morphology evolution was determined and a process-based hydrodynamic model was validated. Registering consecutive sand wave positioning in longitudinal transects provided bed features migration, generating transport pathways that agreed with model results. Sand waves observed were up to 6 m high and 342 m long and migrate up to 1.8 m/day, under depth-averaged current conditions up to 1.84 m/s above the sand wave field and 2.58 m/s in the adjacent channels. Cabeço do Mearim and Medo Island represents the features responsible for separate both tidal hydrodynamic regimes that control bottom migration and morphologic patterns. Residual current distribution and tide dominance coefficients showed that the controlling hydrodynamic forces of the system are more intense in the main channels and southward Medo Island, while weaken as depth reduces eastward. The methods used in this study provide a reliable conceptual model of transport pathways that control the local dynamic equilibrium, composed by the main channel of Sao Marcos Bay, where ebb dominance occurs, by the Boqueirão Channel strongly dominated by flood currents and by the transversal channel located eastward the bottom features, also flood dominated and responsible for transport sediment and energy to the sand wave field. This approach provided the bases for planning activities regard use, conservation and exploitation of sediments in São Marcos Bay

Submarine canyons are major geomorphic features, transporting large quantities of sediments from land to the deep sea. These sediments contain nutrients, enabling life in the deep sea and potentially forming hydrocarbon reservoirs. The transport of sediments towards the deep sea is also important as it links into fundamental concepts of the Earth’s system, such as the global carbon cycle and land surface denudation. Concepts based on the assumption of direct transport of sediments from land to the deep sea. However, how this transport occurs, on what timescales, and if there is potential storage of sediments along the way, is actually poorly known. The current theory is that gravity flow events, such as turbidity events, are the main mechanism behind canyon formation and maintenance. Luminescence dating, an absolute dating method, has been used in an earlier study to look at sediment transport via turbidity currents down the Monterey Canyon, off the coast of California, USA (Stevens et al., 2014). An active upper canyon was found at 1093 metres depth, with frequent events. At 3555 and 3612 metres depth the turbidity events dated were older and indications of major reworking of sediments were found. To pinpoint this change in environments, the present study used luminescence dating in order to get an age estimate of sediments at 2920 meter depth, creating a sequence of ages in the canyon. These cores have captured sediments that have been transported via sand waves, not turbidites. Sand waves are related to the frequent passing of turbidity events, but exact understanding of the mechanisms at hand is poorly understood. Single grain analysis on quartz is used to obtain the individual properties and ages of grains. This gives representative canyon entry ages of the sediments in addition to intrinsic grain properties. The data shows a skewed distribution of grain ages with a narrow, dominant peak between 180 and 240 years within a single core, indicating frequent flushing events and minor reworking of sediments. This is a similar pattern to the core at 1093 meter depth, albeit with increased age, suggesting temporary storage of sediment to at least a depth of 2920 metres. It is proposed that there is a gradual increase in ages down canyon towards 2900 meters depth with a more abrupt transition in environments with increased storage of sediments between 2900 and 3500 meter depth. Sand waves, and the exact relation to turbidites, remain a poorly understood transport mechanisms, but are potentially capable to transport vast amounts of sediments towards the deep sea. / Marina raviner transporterar stora mängder sand från land till havets botten. Men hur sker detta? I nuläget förklaras sandtransport med gravitationsflöde, att gravitationen drar ner sandkornen mot bottnen. Men sker detta vid ett enda stort skede eller i små gradvisa steg? Och kan det vara så att sand, på sin väg till botten, lagras i ravinerna? Det är dessa frågor som jag försöker att kasta ljus på i och med detta projekt.Målet var att komplettera vår kunskap om hur sand förflyttar sig från land till havsbotten genom att studera ifall det har skett en gradvis eller en abrupt transport av sand i ravinen Monterey Canyon vid Kaliforniens kust. Detta har jag gjort genom att datera åldern av sand vid ett djup av 2 920 meter, som i det här fallet deponerats av sandvågor, och sedan jämfört denna ålder med åldrarna på sanden från ett mindre (1 100 m) och större (3 500 m och djupare) djup, vilka analyserades i en tidigare studie (Stevens et al., 2014). Transportmekanism i den studien skiljer sig med min då det rör sig om gravitationsflöden.Med endast några få sandkorn av annan ålder så var den dominerande åldern på kornen i mitt prov mellan 180 till 240 år gamla. Provet vid 1 100 m djup visade sig också ha en liten spridning av ålder vilket tyder på att det skett återkommande utspolning av gammal sand som istället ersatts av ny. Man kan se att det ändå sker en tillfällig lagring av sediment mellan det minsta, studerade djupet och det nyligen tagna provet på 2 900 m, då en svag ökning i ålder kan mätas. Åldern på sandkornen i proven som kom från ett större djup var istället mycket spridd och generellt mycket högre än de från mindre djup. Att det finns en mix av ålder vid ett och samma djup tyder på att sanden vid återkommande tillfällen omfördelats i ravinen.Denna studie antyder att ravinen i fråga är aktiv upp till ett djup av minst 2 920 meter, med bara en svag stegring i ålder med ökande djup. Mellan 2 920 och 3 500 meter ändras miljön vilket gör att sprid-ningen av ålder ökar. Därutöver var det nya provet taget från en plats med ett annorlunda transport-mekanism, sandvågor istället för gravitationsflöde. Sandvågor, och dess relation till gravitationsflöden, är fortsättningsvis en dåligt förstådd transportmekanism som potentiellt är kapabel till att flytta stora mängder sediment till havets botten.

<p> In the study area, the South Saskatchewan River has a sandy bed (mean diameter .3mm) with irregularly-shaped braid bars termed sand flats. These range in length from 50 to 2000 m. The river has an average discharge of 220m^3/sec, with a mean annual flood of 1450 m^3/sec. The river has been dammed upstream of the study area since 1965, but little downcutting has occured. </p> <p> Ripples, sand waves and dunes are the equilibrium bedforms present . Ripples and dunes are well known , but sand waves are long , low bedforms with superimposed ripples, lack scour troughs, and occur at lower flow velocities than dunes . Foreset-type bars are also present , but are not equilibrium forms . They result from flow expansion around older topography. They occur at (1) channel junctions, (2) channel bends, (3) areas of channel widening, (4) places of vertical flow expansion . They deposit planar crossbeds. </p> <p> Large areas of the river have many sand flats with no major channels, and may even lack minor channels. These areas are termed sand flat complexes. Where a major channel curves around a sand flat complex, a large diagonal bar is deposited. It is mainly on the tops of these bars where new sand flats form. </p> <p> The major channels rarely exceed 5 m in depth, but may be 150m wide. They are floored by sinuous-crested dunes with sand waves and ripples along their margins. The dunes build up during floods (2 m maximum amplitude). Large dunes occur in the deeper channels. </p> <p> Three different morphologies of small sand flats, symmetric, asymmetric and side, have been recognized. Each type forms from a bar which becomes partly immobilized where it becomes emergent. The remainder of the bar front continues to advance around this emergent nucleus. The different morphologies result because of the control exerted by preexisting deposits on the shape of the initial bar. </p> <p> Larger sand flats lack these morphologies because they have been extensively modified. The major processes of modification are vertical, lateral, and upstream accretion by bars; linking of sand flats by bars; erosional action. The variable morphologies of larger sand flats reflect only their latest modification. The stratification of sand flats is mainly planar crossbed sets deposited by the bars. </p> <p> During the winter, a 60cm thick layer of ice covers the entire system. The sand flats are immobilized because their top layers of sediments are frozen. In some places, their surfaces are disrupted by fluid escape caused by high pore pressures generated by freezing. Flow proceeds down the channels under the ice. Rafting of cobbles and scouring around grounded ice blocks takes place at breakup. </p> <p> The facies sequences resulting from sedimentation in the river are mainly sandy. Those which are deposited by channels consist dominantly of trough crossbeds, but lone planar crossbed sets may be present, deposited by large bars. Facies sequences which include sand flat deposits have several sets of planar crossbeds stacked on top of one another. All sequences have a zone of small crossbeds and ripple cross-lamination near the tops, resulting from shallow water deposition. They are capped by one-half metre of muddy flood-plain deposits. </p> / Thesis / Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)