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  • About
  • The Global ETD Search service is a free service for researchers to find electronic theses and dissertations. This service is provided by the Networked Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations.
    Our metadata is collected from universities around the world. If you manage a university/consortium/country archive and want to be added, details can be found on the NDLTD website.
1

Moda e elite em Sex and the City: uma semiótica da distinção

Rossi, Camila Fanchini 07 May 2013 (has links)
Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T18:12:53Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Camila Fanchini Rossi.pdf: 4012106 bytes, checksum: cc91c9b2a636d4697b02b0f51ecd2c6b (MD5) Previous issue date: 2013-05-07 / The purpose of this research is to study contemporary clothing from the standpoint of its dual role as a social profiler and an instrument of self-affirmation and personal expression based on its representation in the media. A question which has been addressed by fashion scholars, the dispute between classes involving the desire for imitation and distinction has been referred to a key driver of fashion and held accountable for the fast pace of renewal cycles and the search for novelty. From this perspective, we will begin with the optimistic outlook of Gilles Lipovetsky, who points to the democratization of fashion in a supposedly re-enchanted world, and then compare it against the disenchanted critique presented by Walter Benjamin and his commentators, who still see the contemporary man reduced to the cultural industry s mass production, seduced by merchandise and conditioned to consumerism. Methodologically speaking, this is a bibliographic and documentary research and analysis underpinned by Roland Barthes contemporary reflections about the myths behind fashion magazine editorials and Pierre Bourdieu s theory of distinction. The corpus of this paper consists of pieces of the chic wardrobe for American television series Sex and the City (1998-2004) and its cinematic sequels (2008 and 2010), signed by fashionista Patricia Field, given the influence of said series on female audiences and its close ties with fashion. We will see that even though fashion designers claim to be inspired by the streets and vice versa, the breaking of class barriers in this field is but illusory, as distinction, by definition, entails high standing and repeals department stores / A presente pesquisa tem como objetivo estudar o vestuário contemporâneo, do duplo ângulo de suas funções de discriminador social e de instrumento de autoafirmação e expressão pessoal, a partir de sua representação midiática. Questão já abordada por estudiosos da indumentária, a disputa entre classes envolvendo o desejo de imitação e distinção foi apontada como motor fundamental da moda, tendo-lhe sido atribuídos o ritmo acelerado dos ciclos de renovação e a busca por novidades. Dentro destas perspectivas, partiremos da visão otimista de Gilles Lipovetsky, que assinala a democratização da moda num mundo supostamente reencantado, e a confrontaremos com a crítica desencantada de Walter Benjamin e seus comentadores, que ainda veem o homem contemporâneo reduzido à massificação da indústria cultural, seduzido pelas mercadorias e condicionado ao consumo. Metodologicamente, trata-se de uma pesquisa bibliográfica e documental, cuja análise apoia-se nas reflexões contemporâneas de Roland Barthes sobre os mitos dos editoriais de moda e na teoria da distinção de Pierre Bourdieu. O corpus da pesquisa compreende as peças do guarda-roupa chique da série televisiva americana Sex and the City (1998-2004) e de suas sequências cinematográficas (2008 e 2010), assinado pela fashionista Patricia Field, dada a influência da referida série sobre o público feminino e a sua estreita relação com a moda. Verificamos que, embora os designers de moda reivindiquem inspirar-se nas ruas, e vice-versa, o rompimento das barreiras de classe neste campo é ilusório, já que o distinto, por definição, afirma o alto pertencimento e repele as lojas de departamento

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