Ce travail présente une analyse de l'évolution morphologique et des processus sédimentaires actuels du plateau continental interne sud-aquitain, (sud-est du Golfe de Gascogne, France),secteur riche en données, mais sur lequel de nombreuses questions restent néanmoins en suspens. Il s'articule autour de deux zones ateliers complémentaires : la zone de « La Salie-Biscarrosse » sur le plateau continental interne sud-aquitain au sud des passes du Bassin d'Arcachon (entre 5 et 50 m de profondeur d’eau), et la tête du canyon de Capbreton et ses abords (entre 5 et 120 m de profondeur d’eau). Deux approches sont utilisées : (1) une approche descriptive et comparative (dans le temps), utilisant des données géo-acoustiques(sondeur multi faisceaux, sonar latéral et sondeur de sédiments), des prélèvements et (2) une approche mettant en oeuvre des modélisations numériques des interactions houles / courants /sédiments. Les résultats obtenus sur le plateau interne aquitain ont permis d'améliorer la connaissance de la morphologie, de la nature et de la géométrie interne des corps sédimentaires, d'étudier leur évolution au cours des 29 dernières années (entre 1984 et 2013)et de proposer des facteurs à l’origine de cette évolution. Le résultat majeur est la mise en évidence de « sorted bebforms » entretenus par la houle; dont la surprenante migration vers le nord-est est à associer à la récente découverte d'intenses épisodes de « poleward current » sur le plateau. Le suivi entre 1998 et 2013 de l’évolution morphologique de la tête du Canyon de Capbreton, située à seulement 250 m du littoral montre une évolution rapide qui fluctue cependant autour d'une position d'équilibre. Par ailleurs l’influence de la dérive littorale sur les transferts de sédiments du plateau vers le canyon a pu être démontrée. En-effet, les arguments morphologiques et sédimentaires, associés à la modélisation numérique, prouvent que la dérive littorale aquitaine alimente épisodiquement (conditions de houle forte) la tête de canyon en sables littoraux. / This study proposes an analysis of the morphological evolution and recent sedimentary processes of the south Aquitaine inner shelf (south east Bay of Biscay, France). This area is greatly documented but improvement of our knowledge is needed for a better understanding.Two complementary study areas are analyzed: « La Salie-Biscarrosse » area of the south-Aquitaine inner shelf (in a water depth extending from 5 to 50 m), and the head of the Capbreton Canyon (in a water depth extending from 5 to 120 m). Two approaches are used:(1) a descriptive and comparative analysis of the geophysical and sedimentological data setsand (2) a numerical modeling taking into account swell, current and sediments. The results obtained allow the description and the interpretation of the morphology, the nature, the internal geometry of the sedimentary structures, and their evolution along the last 29 years(between 1984 and 2013). The major result highlights the presence of sorted bedforms maintained by the swell, migrating northeastward and associated with the recent discovery of punctual poleward current on the shelf. The seafloor morphology of the Capbreton Canyonhead located only 250 m off the coastline, has experienced significant changes between 1998 and 2013, nonetheless it oscillates around a position of equilibrium. Furthermore, the influence of the littoral drift on sediment transfer from the shelf to the canyon was demonstrated. Sedimentary and morphological evidences combined with numerical modelingattest to the feeding of the Capbreton canyon head with coastal sand supplied by the southward long shore drift under high-energy wave conditions.

<p>Sorted bedforms are spatial extensive (100 m-km) features present on many inner continental shelves with subtle bathymetric relief (cm-m) and localized, abrupt variations in grain size (fine sand to coarse sand/gravel). Sorted bedforms provide nursery habitat for fish, are a control on benthic biodiversity, function as sediment reservoirs, and influence nearshore waves and currents. Research suggests these bedforms are a consequence of a sediment sorting feedback as opposed to the more common flow-bathymetry interaction. This dissertation addresses three topics related to sorted bedforms: 1) Modeling the long-term evolution of bedform patterns, 2) Refinement of morphological and sediment transport relations used in the sorted bedform model with `machine learning'; 3) Development of a new sorted bedform model using these new `data-driven' components.</p><p> Chapter 1 focuses on modeling the long term evolution of sorted bedforms. A range of sorted bedform model behaviors is possible in the long term, from pattern persistence to spatial-temporal intermittency. Vertical sorting (a result of pattern maturation processes) causes the burial of coarse material until a critical state of seabed coarseness is reached. This critical state causes a local cessation of the sorting feedback, leading to a self-organized spatially intermittent pattern, a hallmark of observed sorted bedforms. Various patterns emerge when numerical experiments include erosion, deposition, and storm events. </p><p> Modeling of sorted bedforms relies on the parameterization of processes that lack deterministic descriptions. When large datasets exist, machine learning (optimization tools from computer science) can be used to develop parameterizations directly from data. Using genetic programming (a machine learning technique) and large multisetting datasets I develop smooth, physically meaningful predictors for ripple morphology (wavelength, height, and steepness; Chapter 2) and near bed suspended sediment reference concentration under unbroken waves (Chapter 3). The new predictors perform better than existing empirical formulations. </p><p> In Chapter 3, the new components derived from machine learning are integrated into the sorted bedform model to create a `hybrid' model: a novel way to incorporate observational data into a numerical model. Results suggest that the new hybrid model is able to capture dynamics absent from previous models, specifically, the two observed end-member pattern modes of sorted bedforms (i.e., coarse material on updrift bedform flanks or coarse material in bedform troughs). However, caveats exist when data driven components do not have parity with traditional theoretical components of morphodynamic models, and I address the challenges of integrating these disparate pieces and the future of this type of `hybrid' modeling.</p> / Dissertation

This thesis presents a new template for multidisciplinary habitat mapping that combines the analyses of seafloor geomorphology, oceanographic proxies and modelling of associated biologic features. High resolution swath bathymetry of the Faial and western Pico shelves is used to present the first state-of-the-art geomorphologic assessment of submerged island shelves in the Azores. Solid seafloor structures are described in previously unreported detail together with associated volcanic, tectonic and erosion processes. The large sedimentary expanses identified in the area are also investigated and the large bedforms identified are discussed in view of new data on the local hydrodynamic conditions. Coarse-sediment zones of types hitherto unreported for volcanic island shelves are described using swath data and in situ imagery together with sub-bottom profiles and grainsize information. The hydrodynamic and geological processes producing these features are discussed. New oceanographic information extracted from satellite imagery is presented including yearly and seasonal sea surface temperature and chlorophyll-a concentration fields. These are used as proxies to understand the spatio-temporal variability of water temperature and primary productivity in the immediate island vicinity. The patterns observed are discussed, including onshore-offshore gradients and the prevalence of colder/more productive waters in the Faial-Pico passage and shelf areas in general. Furthermore, oceanographic proxies for swell exposure and tidal currents are derived from GIS analyses and shallow-water hydrographic modelling. Finally, environmental variables that potentially regulate the distribution of benthic organisms (seafloor nature, depth, slope, sea surface temperature, chlorophyll-a concentration, swell exposure and maximum tidal currents) are brought together and used to develop innovative statistical models of the distribution of six macroalgae taxa dominant in the infralittoral (articulated Corallinaceae, Codium elisabethae, Dictyota spp., Halopteris filicina, Padina pavonica and Zonaria tournefortii). Predictive distributions of these macroalgae are spatialized around Faial island using ordered logistic regression equations and raster fields of the explanatory variables found to be statistically significant. This new approach represents a potentially highly significant step forward in modelling benthic communities not only in the Azores but also in other oceanic island shelves where the management of benthic species and biotopes is critical to preserve ecosystem health.