Title: Assessment of the activity of the shoulder girdle muscles during static period of climbing movement. Objectives: The aim of the study is to determinate the electromyographic activity of shoulder fixators during natural and corrected climbing grip. The second aim is to compare this activity between the group of climbers and nonclimbers. Methods: The research involved 6 people, 3 climbers and 3 nonclimbers. The surface electromyography had been chosen as an objectification method. Measurements were perfomed during 4 static situation with two variants (natural and corected position). We tested these muscles: m. pectoralis major, m.sternocleidomastoideus, horní, střední a dolní část svalu m.trapezius, m.serratus anterior. The average amplitude normalizated to maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) was evaluated. Results: The significantly lower average amplitude was measured for the middle trapezius (18,4 ± 8,9 % MVC) in natural position (average of all positions) than in position corrected (35,3 ± 11,8 % MVC). For the lower trapezius, the average amplitude in natural position (30,1 ± 13,8 % MVC) was measured significantly lower too than in corrected position (61,7 ± 15,4 % MVC). Conclusions: The measurement results showed that, the EMG activity of the middle and lower m. trapezius was during...

Title: Czech terminological mountaineering and sport climbing dictionnary. Goals: Create Czech terminological mountaineering a sport climbing dictionnary. Method: Searches primary and secondary literature. In the first case it was published dictionaries, mountaineering and climbing guides, studies and grammars. In the second case it was a popular publications, monographs important mountaineers and climbers, magazines and websites. Results and conclusion: We have created Czech terminological mountaineering and sport climbing dictionnary with about a thousands lexical units. Words contain around one hundred borrowings from foreign languages, especially English (anglicisms), German (germanisms) and French (galicisms). Most often, the terminology in mountainneering and sport climbing forms deriving, namely the most suffix derivation. Dominant trend in the vocablulary of mountaineering and sport climbing generally increase the amount of borrowed words, especially form english. We consider it a serious problem that has been created bilingual dictionaries from this area before being released Czech terminological mountaineering and sport climbing dictionnary. Key words: Climbing, sport climbing, terminology.

Title: Effect of arm position on finger flexor strength in sport climbers Objectives: The main purpose of this study was to assess the effect of arm position on finger flexor strength in sport climbers. Methods: Twenty-one women (age 24,5 ± 2,7 years, body weight 59,5 ± 8,3 kg, height 166,4 ± 6 cm) and twenty-five men (age 26,9 ± 5,3 years, body weight 71,7 ± 7,7 kg, height 177,2 ± 5,3 cm) volunteered to be a part of the study. The RP performance varied from the 3rd to 10th degree UIAA (Union International des Assocoation d'Alpinisme) scale. A specially manufactured tool was used to measure the finger flexor force with different positions of an arm. During the study, measurements were taken as the arm was adjusted into four different positions: Handgrip (0ř shoulder and elbow in full extension), Flexion90 (90ř shoulder flexion and external rotation of 45ř and the elbow in 90ř flexion supported by a board), Flexion130 (the arm 130ř abduction and elbow flexion 50ř) and Flexion180 (180ř shoulder flexion and elbow in full extension). The open grip was used for all positions, except for the Handgrip position where the thumb was in opposition. Results: The highest relation between the relative strength and RP climbing performance was found in the Flexion130 (r = 0,81) in women and in Flexion180 (r =...

Title: Effect of the load and recovery time on a physiological response in sport rock climbers Objectives: The main purpose of this study was to assess the inluence of various types of climbing loads on a physiological response in sport rock climbers. Methods: Seven experienced (8 to 9+, UIAA - Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) sport climbers (age 25,4 ± 7 years, body 64,8 ± 6 kg, height 175,8 ± 5,3 cm) were subjected to climbing test until exhaustion, which involved three excercises that included various types of load: continuous, intermittent with 30s load and 30s rest periods (test 30/30) and intermittent with 90s load and 90s rest periods (test 90/90). All subjects refrained from exercising at least 48h between each testing. The monitored variables were performance of climbing steps, heart rate (HR), oxygen consumption (VO2), minute ventilation (VE), energy expenditure (EE) and blood lactate (LA). Results: Peak values of monitored variables show that a climbing intensity was similar among all tests (HRpeak 168 ± 11 to 172 ± 7 bites/min, VO2peak 35,2 ± 4,7 to 40,3 ± 5,3 ml/kg/min, LA 4,1 ± 1,1 to 4,9 ± 1,4 mmol/l). EE was in average 9,0 to 9,8 kcal. Subjects climbed longest (4min 45s ± 37s) in the test 30/30 (six climbers achieved maximum defined time 10 x 30s), whereas total...

Name The validity of specific tests of flexibility toward climbing performance Goal To attest the validity of specific tests of flexibility in climbing Method 202 subjects were measured, of this number 136 were men 176,8 cm ± 8,9 cm tall and weighing in at 68,9 kg ± 12,0 kg and 66 were women 168,2 cm ± 15,2 cm tall and weighing in at 62,8 kg ± 13,1 kg. Specific flexibility was measured through three tests: bent knee foot raise test, straight knee foot raise test and foot loading test. The degree of validity of tests has been expressed by the correlation between the climbing performance and the results of the specific flexibility tests. Results All the tests were showing medium dependence to the climbing performance with the correlating coefficient values being: bent knee foot raise test r=0,49, foot loading test r=0,49 straight knee foot raise test r=0,44. These correlating coefficients were calculated from the relative values of test results by averaging the left and right foot results and dividing the resulting number by the height of the subject. Summary Tests used are a suitable indicator of climbing specific flexibility. Keywords Validity, flexibility, sport climbing

Title: Changes of the catecholamins, serotonine and lactate levels during sport climbing on a climbing wall depending on the leader climber's style of belaying. Goals: The Goal of this thesis is to build on the bachelor thesis and develop its goals. The research is focused on a detection of blood hormonal changes before performance, right after it and after a 15- minute pacification depending on a style of a personal profile and style of belaying of the climbers. Hormonal changes have been compared during the performance on two climbing routes of the same difficulty and different styles of belaying. Methods: The randomized research sample consisted of 10 women, climbers, who climbed two routes using the OS (on sight) style on the level of maximum effort. One of the routes was climbed with clipping in protection points against the second route, which was climbed without protection points. The research was performed using a blood collection from v. brachialis and spinning off the blood plasma of the collected blood. Lactate was determined on Siemens Adria 1800 in a routine laboratory, serotonine was determined using LS-MS/MS with a gradient elution. Catecholamines were determined using LS-MS/MS with an isocratic elution. The survey composed of three psychological questionnaires (DMV, RCAI, Eysenck's...

Title: Unilateral functional asymmetry of forearm muscles in sport climbers Objectives: The aim of the study is to evaluate the impact of experienced strain injury of forearm muscles on maximal isometric strength ratios between the flexors and extensors of the fingers in sport climbers. Methods: People were in two groups, twelve people in each of them. In the first group were the climbers after the strain injuries of forearm muscles (earlier than in last 3 months). In the second group were the climbers without these injuries. The dynamometer MIE Medical in Laboratory of sport motoric FTVS UK was used for the method. The maximal value of isometric strength of flexors and extensors of the fingers was measured. For the analysis of the results was used the unpaired t-test for unequal sample sizes with equal variances. Results: The climbers with experienced forearm muscle injury had statistically not significant higher maximal isometric strength ratios between flexors and extensors of the fingers. Higher values of maximal isometric strength of finger flexor muscles were measured in climbers with injuries in anamnesis and the lower values of maximal isometric strength of finger extensor muscles. These two differences were not statistically significant too. Keywords: muscle asymmetry - isometric strength...

Title: Flexor tendon pulley lesion as a most frequent injury in sport climbing Specification of the problem: This thesis is focused on the most frequent injury of the hand in sport climbing. It describes the mechanism of the injury and possibilities of conservative and surgical treatment according to the given guidelines in dependence on its relevance. Objectives: The aim of this thesis is the literary review of accessible literary resources from the field of anatomy, kinesiology and biomechanics of the hand and flexor tendon pulley in connection with a sport activity. Furthermore it is aimed on an analysis why is the flexor tendon pulley injury the most frequent injury in sport climbing, and on methods how to treat this injury in the most effective way from the beginning till the return to the full performance based on therapeutic guidelines created by Dr. Schöffl nad Dr. Hochholzer. This thesis should serve as a therapeutic manual for the Czech sport climbers suffering from this type of injury, which is generally very often underestimated and not treated sufficiently. Methods: This diploma thesis has descriptively-analytical character and is structured as a literary review. Keywords: tendon pulley, hand, sport climbing, physiotherapy, conservative treatment

Název práce Vliv vybraných uzlů na pevnost ploché šité smyčky při statickém zatížení. Cíle práce Cílem práce je posoudit pevnost plochých šitých smyček při statickém zatížení a vliv uzlů na snížení jejich pevnosti. Metody Zpracovávaná studie je designována jako dvoufaktorový experiment, při kterém zkoumáme vliv použitých uzlů na pokles nominální pevnosti u dvou typů smyček. Měření bylo prováděno na horizontálním trhacím stroji. Byly vybrány smyčky materiálu dyneema, polyamid a nejčastěji používané uzly (vůdcovský, osmičkový a devítkový). Výsledky Větší pevnosti dosáhly smyčky materiálu Polyamid 26,0 ± 1,1 kN a pevnosti v průřezu 1,3 kN na 1 mm2 . Smyčky materiálu dyneema dosáhli pevnosti 25,1 ± 0,9 kN a pevnosti v průřezu 1,3 kN na 1 mm2 . Na smyčce materiálu polyamid nejméně snižoval pevnost vůdcovský uzel. Smyčka praskla při tažné síle 17,4 ± 0,7 kN. U dyneemy to byl uzel osmičkový s hodnotami 12,2 ± 0,8 kN. Závěr Pro použití smyček v kombinaci s uzly bychom mohli doporučit materiál polyamid, kde uzel snižuje méně nominální pevnost než u dyneemy. Klíčová slova Horolezectví, sportovní lezení, dyneema, polyamid, trhová zkouška

Title of master thesis Determination of climbing specific maximal oxygen uptake during climbing with increasing inclination and constant speed. Work objectives To review the determination of climbing specific maximal oxygen uptake during climbing with increasing inclination and constant speed. Methods Twenty six climbers with climbing ability on UIAA scale from 4th to 10th degree were participated in this study. Maximal specific oxygen uptake was measured by climbing test, to exhaustion on climbing wall, where the inclination were changed from 95ř (105ř) to 135ř every three minutes. Speed of climbing was constant on 25 movements·min-1 . After a rest, the participants went a maximal running test on treadmill. There were evaluated relationships between climbing ability, inclination and cardiopulmonary variables. Results In maximal climbing test, climbers achived plato on value 40 ± 3,5 ml·kg-1 ·min-1 , without influence on climbing ability or inclination. The climbing ability most corelated with achived inclination r = 0,89 and heart rate r = 0,41. Our study confirmed disproportional rising of heart rate against oxygen uptake. Furthermore, there was a strong relationship to be found between ventilation per 1l oxygen to RER indicating specific breathing mechanism of advanced climbers. More demanding...