The influence of monochromatic waves interacting with a submerged bar structure is investigated through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Wave profiles for a range of non-breaking, spilling, and plunging waves were analyzed for three offshore water depths through the interpretation of wave gauge and video imagery data. Evolution of propagating waves was reflected in data which showed increased amplitudes due to shoaling with subsequent breaking, transfer of single frequency spectrum from lower to higher frequency harmonics, and dissipation of energy after breaking onset. Comparisons of collected experimental data with previous theory developed by Yao et al (2013), Smith & Kraus (1991), Galvin (1968) for wave classification showed to be relatively accurate for both relative submergence and surf similarity methods. Wave breaking onset identified by instability in the wave crests allowed for measurements of breaking wave height and depth at breaking. Theory by Johnson (2006) and Goda (1974) compared to experimental data showed little agreement for predicting breaking wave heights. / Includes bibliography. / Thesis (M.S.)--Florida Atlantic University, 2018. / FAU Electronic Theses and Dissertations Collection

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Thesis (M.Phil.)--Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, 2006. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 168-173). Also available in electronic version.

Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) is a Lagrangian-based numerical method used for simulating problems in fluid and solid mechanics. In this thesis, a basic introduction to particle and Smoothed Particle (SP) approximations is given first. Application of SP approximations to Euler and Navier-Stokes equations is discussed, followed by an improvement to restore first order consistency in SPH. Then, simulations of 2D free-surface waves in a weakly incompressible fluid are conducted. If the artificial viscosity used is small, results indicate that the accuracy of SPH scheme is reasonably good; however, a low artificial viscosity leads to a rugged air-water interface. Furthermore, application of the LES filter has negligible effects. It is also observed that the use of Renormalized SPH (R-SPH) increases diffusivity but does not increase accuracy significantly. Hence, for 2D surface waves in weakly incompressible fluids, basic SPH formulation without any modification is as good as the R-SPH or LES-SPH methods.

Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) is a Lagrangian-based numerical method used for simulating problems in fluid and solid mechanics. In this thesis, a basic introduction to particle and Smoothed Particle (SP) approximations is given first. Application of SP approximations to Euler and Navier-Stokes equations is discussed, followed by an improvement to restore first order consistency in SPH. Then, simulations of 2D free-surface waves in a weakly incompressible fluid are conducted. If the artificial viscosity used is small, results indicate that the accuracy of SPH scheme is reasonably good; however, a low artificial viscosity leads to a rugged air-water interface. Furthermore, application of the LES filter has negligible effects. It is also observed that the use of Renormalized SPH (R-SPH) increases diffusivity but does not increase accuracy significantly. Hence, for 2D surface waves in weakly incompressible fluids, basic SPH formulation without any modification is as good as the R-SPH or LES-SPH methods.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Texas at Austin, 1999. / Vita. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 285-320). Available also in a digital version from Dissertation Abstracts.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Texas at Austin, 2001. / Vita. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 130-137). Available also in a digital version from Dissertation Abstracts.

Thesis (M. Phil.)--University of Hong Kong, 1974.

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