published_or_final_version / China Area Studies / Master / Master of Arts

published_or_final_version / Chinese Historical Studies / Master / Master of Arts

No description available.

The use of chemicals in the textile industry is increasingly recognized as a problem and a matter of public concern. A proper EU policy on the subject is still missing. However, as testified by the number of self-organized communities and activist campaigns emerging around this theme, a demand for higher transparency is rising from the base of society. A kit made of a new label graphic; a hyperspectral camera and a mobile app have been design as a possible strategy to allow fashion companies to better meet the needs of their consumers. This final configuration opens up for a reflection about design practice, trust and transparency.

by Chan Yu Keung. / Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1998. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 133-141). / Abstract also in Chinese. / Acknowledgments --- p.i / Abstract --- p.ii / Table of Content --- p.iv / List of Figures --- p.ix / List of Tables --- p.xiv / Chapter 1. --- INTRODUCTION --- p.1 / Chapter 1.1 --- Overview --- p.1 / Chapter 1.2 --- Textiles Industry in Hong Kong --- p.1 / Chapter 1.3 --- Processes Involved in Textiles Industry --- p.2 / Chapter 1.3.1 --- Typical Stages in Bleaching and Dyeing Step --- p.3 / Chapter 1.4 --- Characterization of Textile Wastewater --- p.6 / Chapter 1.4.1 --- Desizing --- p.6 / Chapter 1.4.2 --- Scouring --- p.6 / Chapter 1.4.3 --- Bleaching --- p.7 / Chapter 1.4.4 --- Mercerizing --- p.7 / Chapter 1.4.5 --- Dyeing and Printing --- p.7 / Chapter 1.4.6 --- Finishing --- p.8 / Chapter 1.5 --- Toxicity of Pollutants from Textiles Industry --- p.8 / Chapter 1.6 --- Related Environmental Legislation in Hong Kong --- p.9 / Chapter 1.6.1 --- Water Pollution Control Ordinance --- p.9 / Chapter 1.6.2 --- Waste Disposal Ordinance --- p.10 / Chapter 1.6.3 --- General Sewage Charge --- p.10 / Chapter 1.6.4 --- Trade Effluent Surcharge --- p.10 / Chapter 1.7 --- Chemical Specific Approach --- p.11 / Chapter 1.8 --- Toxicity Based Approach --- p.12 / Chapter 1.8.1 --- Selection of Organisms for Bioassays --- p.13 / Chapter 1.9 --- Whole-Effluent Toxicity (WET) Test --- p.14 / Chapter 1.10 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation --- p.14 / Chapter 1.10.1 --- Phase I ´ؤ Toxicant Characterization --- p.15 / Chapter 1.10.2 --- Phase II - Toxicant Identification --- p.16 / Chapter 1.10.3 --- Phase III - Toxicant Confirmation --- p.16 / Chapter 1.11 --- Ecotoxicology --- p.16 / Chapter 2. --- OBJECTIVES --- p.18 / Chapter 3. --- MATERIALS AND METHODS --- p.19 / Chapter 3.1 --- Sources of Samples --- p.19 / Chapter 3.2 --- Whole Effluent Toxicity Test --- p.19 / Chapter 3.2.1 --- Microtox® test --- p.19 / Chapter 3.2.2 --- Growth inhibition test of a marine unicellular microalga Chlorella pyrenoidosa CU-2 --- p.22 / Chapter 3.2.3 --- Survival test of a marine amphipod Parhyale plumulosa --- p.25 / Chapter 3.2.4 --- Survival test of a marine fish Mylio macrocephalus --- p.29 / Chapter 3.3 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation - Phase I --- p.33 / Chapter 3.3.1 --- pH adjustment filtration --- p.33 / Chapter 3.3.2 --- pH adjustment aeration --- p.35 / Chapter 3.3.3 --- Anion exchange --- p.37 / Chapter 3.3.4 --- Cation exchange --- p.38 / Chapter 3.3.5 --- pH adjustment C18 solid phase extraction (C18 SPE) --- p.40 / Chapter 3.3.6 --- Activated carbon extraction --- p.41 / Chapter 3.4 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation - Phase II --- p.43 / Chapter 3.4.1 --- Determination of total organic carbon (TOC) --- p.43 / Chapter 3.4.2 --- Determination of metals --- p.46 / Chapter 3.4.3 --- Determination of anions --- p.48 / Chapter 4. --- RESULTS --- p.51 / Chapter 4.1 --- Sample Description --- p.51 / Chapter 4.2 --- Whole Effluent Toxicity Tests --- p.51 / Chapter 4.2.1 --- Toxicity of whole effluent samples on algal growth inhibition test using Chlorella pyrenoidosa CU-2 --- p.51 / Chapter 4.2.2 --- Toxicity of whole effluent samples on Microtox® test --- p.65 / Chapter 4.2.3 --- Toxicity of whole effluent samples on survival test of amphipod Parhyale plumulosa --- p.55 / Chapter 4.2.4 --- Toxicity of whole effluent samples on survival test of Mylio macrocephalus --- p.71 / Chapter 4.3 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation - Phase I --- p.71 / Chapter 4.3.1 --- Effect of filtration at pH 3 on toxicity reduction --- p.71 / Chapter 4.3.2 --- Effect of filtration at pH 7 on toxicity reduction --- p.74 / Chapter 4.3.3 --- Effect of filtration at pHi on toxicity reduction --- p.74 / Chapter 4.3.4 --- Effect of aeration at pH 3 on toxicity reduction --- p.80 / Chapter 4.3.5 --- Effect of aeration at pH 7 on toxicity reduction --- p.80 / Chapter 4.3.6 --- Effect of aeration at pHi on toxicity reduction --- p.85 / Chapter 4.3.7 --- Effect of anion exchange on toxicity reduction --- p.85 / Chapter 4.3.8 --- Effect of cation exchange on toxicity reduction --- p.90 / Chapter 4.3.9 --- Effect of C18 extraction at pH3 on toxicity reduction --- p.90 / Chapter 4.3.10 --- Effect of C18 extraction at pH 7 on toxicity reduction --- p.95 / Chapter 4.3.11 --- Effect of C18 extraction at pH 9 on toxicity reduction --- p.95 / Chapter 4.3.12 --- Effect of activated carbon extraction on toxicity reduction --- p.101 / Chapter 4.4 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation ´ؤ Phase II --- p.101 / Chapter 4.4.1 --- Effect of anion exchange on chemical reduction --- p.101 / Chapter 4.4.2 --- Effect of cation exchange on chemical reduction --- p.107 / Chapter 4.4.3 --- Effect of C18 extraction at pH 3 on chemical reduction --- p.107 / Chapter 4.4.4 --- Effect of C18 extraction at pH 7 on chemical reduction --- p.110 / Chapter 4.4.5 --- Effect of C18 extraction at pH 9 on chemical reduction --- p.110 / Chapter 4.4.6 --- Effect of activated carbon extraction on chemical reduction --- p.110 / Chapter 5. --- DISCUSSION --- p.114 / Chapter 5.1 --- Whole Effluent Toxicity Test --- p.114 / Chapter 5.1.1 --- Toxicity of whole effluent samples on algal growth inhibition test of Chlorella pyrenoidosa CU-2 --- p.114 / Chapter 5.1.2 --- Toxicity of whole effluent samples on Microtox® test --- p.116 / Chapter 5.1.3 --- Toxicity of whole effluent samples on survival test of amphipod Parhyale plumulosa --- p.117 / Chapter 5.1.4 --- Toxicity of whole effluent samples on survival test of fish Mylio macrocephalus --- p.118 / Chapter 5.1.5 --- Correlations among toxicity tests --- p.118 / Chapter 5.1.6 --- Factor analysis on whole effluent toxicity tests --- p.121 / Chapter 5.2 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation ´ؤ Phase I --- p.122 / Chapter 5.2.1 --- pH adjustment filtration test --- p.124 / Chapter 5.2.2 --- pH adjustment aeration test --- p.124 / Chapter 5.2.3 --- Anion exchange test --- p.124 / Chapter 5.2.4 --- Cation exchange test --- p.125 / Chapter 5.2.5 --- pH adjustment C18 solid phase extraction test --- p.125 / Chapter 5.2.6 --- Activated carbon extraction test --- p.126 / Chapter 5.3 --- Toxicity Identification Evaluation Phase II --- p.126 / Chapter 5.3.1 --- Effect of anion exchange on chemical reduction --- p.126 / Chapter 5.3.2 --- Effect of cation exchange on chemical reduction --- p.127 / Chapter 5.3.3 --- Effect of C18 solid phase extraction on chemical reduction --- p.127 / Chapter 5.3.4 --- Effect of activated carbon extraction on chemical reduction --- p.127 / Chapter 5.4 --- Correlation between toxicity reduction and chemical reduction --- p.128 / Chapter 5.4.1 --- Anion exchange --- p.128 / Chapter 5.4.2 --- Cation exchange --- p.129 / Chapter 5.4.3 --- C18 solid phase extraction --- p.129 / Chapter 5.4.4 --- Activated carbon extraction --- p.130 / Chapter 6. --- CONCLUSIONS --- p.131 / Chapter 7. --- REFERENCE --- p.133

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Thesis (M.A.)--Ohio University, June, 2005. / Title from PDF t.p. Includes bibliographical references (p. 56-62)

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Liberalization of textiles and clothing was one of the pillars of the Uruguay Round under the WTO aimed at promoting economic growth, development and alleviating poverty. For over 40 years this sector had been separated from the established principles of liberal trade stemming mainly from protectionist sentiments. The new regime established by the Uruguay Round aimed at integrating the sector into GATT on the basis of its strengthened rules and disciplines in furtherance of its general objective to liberalize trade. This change in international trade rules is a phenomenal development that is bound to have an impact on trade in other areas. The paper explores the liberalization process by analyzing current trends in the textiles and clothing liberalization process. It identifies opportunities and also highlights challenges the process presents to participants in the sector. Although no precise picture of the trade following the full integration can be drawn at this stage, there are some indicators of potential winners and losers explaining both the praises and condemnation in the liberalization debate from the various commentators. (Abstract shortened by UMI.)

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