Two types of linear random wave simulation methods are investigated; viz., (1) Deterministic Spectral Amplitude (DSA) and (2) Nondeterministic Spectral Amplitude (NSA). These linear simulations are extended to second-order in a perturbation expansion in the frequency domain by utilizing a Fast Fourier Transform (FFT). The nonlinear interaction matrix for waves in shallow-, intermediate-, and deep-water is also investigated. In shallow water, the nonlinear interaction matrix is not as well-behaved as it is in intermediate- and deep-water. The nonlinear interaction matrix is symmetrical with respect to its frequency indices. The value of this nonlinear interaction matrix may, therefore, be calculated only from two octants in the w[subscript m]-w[subscript n] in plane. Water particle kinematics are computed from the simulated sea surface by three different Transfer Functions; viz., (1) Linear Frequency Domain (LFD), (2) Hybrid Frequency Domain (HFD), (3) Ncnlinear Frequency Domain (NFD). Wave pressure forces on a circular cylindrical pile are computed at approximately the mid-depth location in the time domain by the Morrison equation using the Dean and Aagaard coefficients. The statistics of these wave pressure forces are derived by the moment generating function approach by assuming that the initial sea surfaces are linear and Gaussian. The statistics of these simulated sea surfaces and wave pressure forces are compared with those recorded during Hurricane Carla (1961) in the Gulf of Mexico. In the sea surface simulation, the NSA method gives better agreement with the statistics from the measured sea surfaces than the DSA method does. However, there is no conclusion that can be drawn out the wave forces which are simulated from only one record (WPII No. 6887). / Graduation date: 1981

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Adelaide, 1988. / Typescript. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 145-150).

Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Rhode Island, 2007. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 180-187).

Thesis (M.A.)--College of William and Mary. / Typescript (photocopy) Vita. Bibliography: leaves 82-84.

Thesis--Wisconsin. / Vita. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 105-108).

Thesis--University of Wisconsin--Madison. / Typescript. Vita. eContent provider-neutral record in process. Description based on print version record. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 95-98).

Part I of this thesis develops a theory of nonlinear resonant interactions between continental shelf waves. From the inviscid, unforced long-wave equations for a rotating, homogeneous fluid, it is shown that resonant interactions between three continental shelf waves can occur. Evolution equations governing the amplitude and the energy of individual waves in a resonant triad are derived. The nonlinearity in the governing equations allows energy to be transferred between the waves, but with the total energy conserved. In particular, interactions on an exponential shelf are studied. Part II of this thesis compares the theory from Part I with observations and data from the Oregon shelf. Rotary spectral analysis and cross-shelf modal fitting are the two techniques used for shelf wave detection. Many features characteristic of shelf waves and of the resonant triad interaction theory are found in the current and sea level data. Also, for the first time, shelf waves have been unambiguously identified in both the alongshore and cross-shelf dimensions. The data indicate that the wind generates long continental shelf waves at low frequencies. Nonlinear resonant interactions then transfer energy from the low-frequency long waves to higher frequency shelf waves with much shorter wavelengths. The good agreement between theory and observation suggests that nonlinear energy transfer may play a significant role in shelf wave dynamics. / Science, Faculty of / Earth, Ocean and Atmospheric Sciences, Department of / Graduate

The influence of monochromatic waves interacting with a submerged bar structure is investigated through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Wave profiles for a range of non-breaking, spilling, and plunging waves were analyzed for three offshore water depths through the interpretation of wave gauge and video imagery data. Evolution of propagating waves was reflected in data which showed increased amplitudes due to shoaling with subsequent breaking, transfer of single frequency spectrum from lower to higher frequency harmonics, and dissipation of energy after breaking onset. Comparisons of collected experimental data with previous theory developed by Yao et al (2013), Smith & Kraus (1991), Galvin (1968) for wave classification showed to be relatively accurate for both relative submergence and surf similarity methods. Wave breaking onset identified by instability in the wave crests allowed for measurements of breaking wave height and depth at breaking. Theory by Johnson (2006) and Goda (1974) compared to experimental data showed little agreement for predicting breaking wave heights. / Includes bibliography. / Thesis (M.S.)--Florida Atlantic University, 2018. / FAU Electronic Theses and Dissertations Collection

Typescript. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Hawaii, 1985. / Bibliography: leaves 132-136. / Photocopy. / xxiii, 136 leaves, bound ill. 29 cm

Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Delaware, 2005. / Principal faculty adviser: James T. Kirby, Dept. of Civil & Environmental Engineering. Includes bibliographical references.