Wrinkling and pilling caused in wear and care procedures are vital performance characteristics of fabric. The advance of three-dimensional (3D) imaging techniques has made it possible to develop a convenient, reliable and low cost tool for automatic and efficient evaluation of fabric wrinkling and pilling. We suggest that 3D imaging and measurement system can provide a convenient, accommodating and comprehensive mean to fabric surface assessment. A 3D imaging system based on stereo vision technology is developed. To make it more affordable and portable, the system consists of a pair of consumer grade high resolution digital cameras with mounting hardware. The system is calibrated with classic camera calibration technique. The calibration procedure is relatively complicated, but there is no need to repeat frequently as long as the relative positions between cameras are not changed. In this system, image acquisition can be completed in less than one second. This efficient surface capturing feature is important for a large amount of measurement tasks. However, the computation in stereo vision is complex and intensive, thus it remains a challenge. A two-phase multi-resolution stereo matching algorithm is developed. In the first phase, a discrete disparity map is generated by block matching. In the second phase, local least-squares matching is performed in combination with global optimization within a regularization framework, so as to ensure both accuracy and reliability. To make the 3D imaging system ready for practical use, detection and measurement modules for wrinkling and pilling were developed to take advantage of the depth information in the 3D surface data. The practical feasibility of the 3D imaging system in fabric surface assessment was demonstrated in comparison with human visual ratings. The results showed agreement between the 3D automatic assessment and subjective visual assessment. / text

This study examined the mechanical and durable press properties of cotton 3/1 twill-woven fabrics finished with various concentrations of reactants in the BTCA/IA/AA combinations. The regression analysis was used to determine the relationship among each finishing variable, BTCA, IA, and AA concentrations, mole ratio of acid monomers to the sodium hypophosphite monohydrate catalyst, and curing times at 180°C, and the finished fabric's property variable, breaking strength, tear strength, wrinkle recovery angle whiteness index, and durable press rating. Based on the results of the reduced regression equations and range dispersion of mean values of finished fabric properties. The results of the study indicated the some BTCA/IA/AA combinations applied to cotton fabric provided good results in wrinkle recovery angle, breaking strength, and tear strength, comparable to those of the fabric finished with either BTCA only or DMDHEU reactant. The combinations of BTCA/IA/AA reactants did not provide as good whiteness index and durable press rating as the BTCA or DMDHEU reactant. / Ph. D.

This work is a comparative study of the various numerical techniques used for analyzing membranes. Membrane analysis is complicated by the fact that local instabilities occur in membranes in the form of small waves or ‘wrinkles’ in zones in which compression tends to appear. This is attributed to their negligible flexural stiffness. Broadly, two approaches exist in the wrinkling analysis of membranes. They are bifurcation analysis and analysis with membrane elements augmented with wrinkling models. In the former approach we can get the wrinkle details while the latter approach gives only the wrinkling zone. The present numerical strategy falls in the category of bifurcation analysis, where we make use of an energy-momentum conserving time integration algorithm in the context of a hybrid element formulation. The solution obtained through this procedure is considered to be accurate, since there are no kinematic assumptions (plane stress, etc.) made in the formulation and we achieve convergence with respect to mesh refinement. We show in this work that the wrinkling process not only depends on the stiffness matrix but also on the transient process. To show this a pseudo-dynamic scheme which is commonly used, is implemented within the hybrid formulation and we show the differences that arise between this scheme and the present method, over some benchmark problems. In this work, we also implement a wrinkling model proposed by Roddeman and finally the advantages and disadvantages of various numerical techniques are discussed.

Pattern formation, i.e., the outcome of self-organization, has fascinated scientists for centuries. A large effort was devoted to understand the formation of regular patterns in dissipative structures. More recently, it appears that self-organized structures could also be achieved near equilibrium. There is a great variety of physical and chemical systems that, near equilibrium, exhibit periodic patterns. For instance, stripes or bubbles could be observed in thin films of magnetic garnet, superconducting materials, block copolymers, liquid crystals, phospholipids, and ferrofluids. Wrinkling instability of compressed rigid membranes on soft elastic substrates leads also to the formation of periodic patterns near equilibrium. Since the seminal paper of Bowden et al. (Nature 1998), various systems were proposed to generate nano- and micrometric wrinkles via the application of compressive stresses to multilayers. In addition to its purely fundamental interest, these instabilities also offer a new route to build in a simple, cost-effective, and well-defined way nano- and microstructured surfaces without the use of the traditional, robust techniques developed in the microelectronics industry. In this thesis, we develop a new system, metal-polymer-substrate trilayers, that exhibit wrinkling when heated above the glass transition temperature of the polymer. We explain in detail the mechanism at the origin of wrinkling and expand existing models to obtain a complete description of the relevant parameters that govern both the amplitude and the wavelength of the obtained pattern. In light of this, we show that by playing with the rheological properties of the polymer we are able to control precisely the geometry of the wrinkles. Furthermore, to generate surfaces with a tailor-made buckling pattern, we develop an original variant of the experiments. We tune the boundary conditions at the polymer-substrate interface by chemically patterning the substrates with regions of high and low adhesion. In this way, we obtain patterns with wrinkles being oriented differently above the sticky and the slippery regions. This last result is very surprising since it seems, at first sight, unrealistic to imagine that the chemical nature of the substrate could affect the elastic instability of the skin through a micron-thick polymer film. To explore wrinkled patterns with complex morphologies, we couple the wrinkling instability with solvent diffusion. Molecular diffusion in the polymer layer triggers the transition from an unwrinkled to a wrinkled state, provided that stimuloresponsive mutlilayers are used. The wrinkled pattern obtained is determined by the geometry of the diffusion process. To understand this surprising observation, we explain in detail how the scalar field related to the solvent concentration affects so strongly the elastic instabilities usually determined by the tensorial stress field. This mechanism allows us thus to grant exotic stress distributions which lead to very intriguing patterns (e.g. parallel or radial folds, herringbones). Interestingly, we find that under specific conditions, a hierarchical wrinkled morphology, i.e. pattern of wrinkles branching into generations of ever-higher folds, develops. We study other manifestations of hierarchical structures existing around us. In this frame, we derive a general concept that a plate constrained at one edge (with a fixed wavelength) but free at the opposite one evolves naturally to larger wavelengths to minimize its bending energy. We show theoretically that the evolution results from a compromise between the gain in bending energy and the energetic penalties related to the change of wavelength. We demonstrate the universality of these concepts by showing that our commonplace suspended curtain behaves like nanometer-thick polystyrene films deposited on water and further compressed. We close this thesis by making a short review of the main applications related to wrinkling that are already described in literature and develop in detail one of them, the use of wrinkling to investigate cell contact guidance.

Fabric appearance is usually the highest priority consideration for consumers. Pilling and wrinkling are two major factors which cause the fabric to have a worse appearance after a certain service period. In order to prevent more piling and wrinkling, a fabric pilling and wrinkling severity evaluation is very important. Traditional visual examination needs at least three trained experts to judge each sample, which is both subjective and time-consuming. Objective, high efficiency, and automatic pilling and wrinkling evaluation based on computer processing techniques are now being developed quickly. In this study, an integrated fabric pilling and wrinkling measurement system based on stereovision was developed. The hardware part of the system consists of a pair of consumer high resolution cameras and a mounting stage, which is affordable and portable in comparison with other 3D imaging systems. A novel pilling detection algorithm focusing on 3D image local information was proposed to extract three pilling features including pilling density, pilling average height, and pilling average size. The logistic regression classifier was applied for pilling severity classification because it showed a good accuracy with 80% on the 120 3D pilling images. A fast wrinkle detection algorithm with leveled 3D fabric surface was developed to measure wrinkle density, hardness, tip-angle, and roughness. According to these four wrinkling features, 180 3D wrinkling images were tested by the logistic regression classifier with an overall 74.4% accuracy in comparison with visual judging results. Both pilling and wrinkling results obtained from the proposed automatic 3D fabric pilling and wrinkling severity evaluation system were consistent with the subjective visual evaluation results. The system is ready for practical use. / text

The recent development in the marine industry with largerships built in sandwich construction and also the use of moreadvanced materials has enforced improvements of design criteriaregarding wrinkling. The commonly used Hoff’s formula isnot suited for the highly anisotropic fibre reinforced sandwichface sheets of today. The work presented herein investigates the wrinklingphenomenon. A solution to wrinkling of anisotropic sandwichplates subjected to multi-axial loading is presented. Thesolution includes the possibility of skew wrinkling where thewrinkling waves are not perpendicular to the principal loaddirection. The wrinkling angle is obtained from the solutiontogether with the maximum wrinkling load. This method has beensupported with tests of anisotropic plates subjected touni-axial and bi-axial loading. The effect of the face sheet local bending stiffness showsthe importance of including the face sheet stacking sequence inthe wrinkling analysis. The work points out the influence ofthe face sheet local bending stiffness on wrinkling. Threedifferent means of improving the wrinkling load except changingcore material is evaluated. The effect of the differentapproaches is evaluated theoretically and also throughcomparative testing. The transition between wrinkling and pureface sheet compression failure is investigated. Theoreticaldiscussions are compared with compressive test results of twodifferent face sheet types on seven different core densities.The failure modes are investigated using fractography. Theresults clearly show how the actual sandwich compressionfailure mode is influenced by the choice of core material,changing from wrinkling failure to face sheet micro bucklingfailure as the modulus density increases. Finally, a new approach is presented where the wrinklingproblem is transferred from a pure stability problem to amaterial strength criterion. The developed theory providesmeans on how to decide which sandwich constituent will failfirst and at which load it will fail. The method give insightto and develop the overall understanding of the wrinklingphenomenon. A very good correlation is found when the developedtheory is compared with both finite element calculations and toexperimental tests. <b>Keywords:</b>wrinkling, local buckling, imperfection,stability, anisotropy, sandwich

<p>The recent development in the marine industry with largerships built in sandwich construction and also the use of moreadvanced materials has enforced improvements of design criteriaregarding wrinkling. The commonly used Hoff’s formula isnot suited for the highly anisotropic fibre reinforced sandwichface sheets of today.</p><p>The work presented herein investigates the wrinklingphenomenon. A solution to wrinkling of anisotropic sandwichplates subjected to multi-axial loading is presented. Thesolution includes the possibility of skew wrinkling where thewrinkling waves are not perpendicular to the principal loaddirection. The wrinkling angle is obtained from the solutiontogether with the maximum wrinkling load. This method has beensupported with tests of anisotropic plates subjected touni-axial and bi-axial loading.</p><p>The effect of the face sheet local bending stiffness showsthe importance of including the face sheet stacking sequence inthe wrinkling analysis. The work points out the influence ofthe face sheet local bending stiffness on wrinkling. Threedifferent means of improving the wrinkling load except changingcore material is evaluated. The effect of the differentapproaches is evaluated theoretically and also throughcomparative testing. The transition between wrinkling and pureface sheet compression failure is investigated. Theoreticaldiscussions are compared with compressive test results of twodifferent face sheet types on seven different core densities.The failure modes are investigated using fractography. Theresults clearly show how the actual sandwich compressionfailure mode is influenced by the choice of core material,changing from wrinkling failure to face sheet micro bucklingfailure as the modulus density increases.</p><p>Finally, a new approach is presented where the wrinklingproblem is transferred from a pure stability problem to amaterial strength criterion. The developed theory providesmeans on how to decide which sandwich constituent will failfirst and at which load it will fail. The method give insightto and develop the overall understanding of the wrinklingphenomenon. A very good correlation is found when the developedtheory is compared with both finite element calculations and toexperimental tests.</p><p><b>Keywords:</b>wrinkling, local buckling, imperfection,stability, anisotropy, sandwich</p>

The first instability of circular tubes compressed into the plastic range is axisymmetric wrinkling, which is stable. Compressed further the wrinkle amplitude grows, leading to a limit load instability followed by collapse. The two instabilities can be separated by strain levels of a few percent. This work investigates whether a tube that develops small amplitude wrinkles can be subsequently collapsed by persistent cycling. The problem was first investigated experimentally using SAF 2507 super-duplex steel tubes with D/t of 28.5. The tubes are first compressed to strain levels high enough for mild wrinkles to form and then cycled axially under stress control about a compressive mean stress. This type of cycling usually results in accumulation of compressive strain; here it is accompanied by growth of the amplitude of the initial wrinkles. The tube average strain initially grows nearly linearly with the number of cycles, but as a critical value of wrinkle amplitude is approached, wrinkling localizes, the rate of ratcheting grows exponentially and the tube collapses. Similar experiments were then performed for tubes involving axial cycling under internal pressure and the combined loads cause simultaneous ratcheting in the hoop and axial directions as well as a gradual growth of the wrinkles. The rate of ratcheting and the number of cycles to collapse depend on the initial compressive pre-strain, the internal pressure, and the stress cycle parameters all of which were varied sufficiently to generate vii a sufficient data base. Interestingly, in both the pressurized and unpressurized cases collapse was found to occur when the accumulated average strain reaches the value at which the tube localizes under monotonic compression. A custom shell model of the tube with initial axisymmetric imperfections, coupled to the Dafalias-Popov two-surface nonlinear kinematic hardening model, are presented and used to simulate the experiments performed. It is demonstrated that when suitably calibrated this modeling framework reproduces the prevalent ratcheting deformations and the evolution of wrinkling including the conditions at collapse accurately for all experiments. The calibrated model is then used to evaluate the ratcheting behavior of pipes under thermal-pressure cyclic loading histories experienced by axially restrained pipelines. / text

The research of this dissertation is formulated in two fields, i.e., the theoretical and computational studies of circumferential wrinkling on soft nanofibers and the swelling mechanics study of a bi-layered spherical hydrogel containing a hard core. Continuous polymer nanofibers have been massively produced by means of the low-cost, top-down electrospinning technique. As a unique surface instability phenomenon, surface wrinkling in circumferential direction is commonly observed on soft nanofibers in electrospinning. In this study, a theoretical continuum mechanics model is developed to explore the mechanisms of circumferential wrinkling on soft nanofibers under uniaxial stretching. The model is able to examine the effects of elastic properties, surface energy, and fiber radius on the critical axial stretch to trigger circumferential wrinkling and to discover the threshold fiber radius to initiate spontaneous wrinkling. In addition, nonlinear finite element method (FEM) is further adopted to predict the critical mismatch strain to evoke circumferential wrinkling in core-shell polymer nanofibers containing a hard core, as a powerful computational tool to simulate controllable wrinkling on soft nanofibers via co-electrospinning polymer nanofibers incorporated with nanoparticles as the core. The studies provide rational understanding of surface wrinkling in polymer nanofibers and technical approaches to actively tune surface morphologies of polymer nanofibers for particular applications, e.g. high-grade filtration, oil-water separation, polymer nanocomposites, wound dressing, tissue scaffolding, drug delivery, and renewable energy harvesting, conversion, and storage, etc. Furthermore, hydrogels are made of cross-linked polymer chains that can swell significantly when imbibing water and exhibit inhomogeneous deformation, stress, and, water concentration fields when the swelling is constrained. In this study, a continuum mechanics field theory is adopted to study the swelling behavior of a bi-layered spherical hydrogel containing a hard core. The problem is reduced into a two-point boundary value problem of a 2nd-order nonlinear ordinary differential equation (ODE) and solved numerically. Effects of material properties on the deformation, stress, and water concentration fields of the hydrogel are examined. The study offers a rational route to design and regulate hydrogels with tailorable swelling behavior for practical applications in drug delivery, leakage blocking, etc.

This work focuses on understanding deformation mechanisms and responsiveness associated with the wrinkling, folding, and snapping of thin polymer films. We demonstrated the use of elastic instabilities in confined regimes, such as the crumpling and snapping of surface attached sheets. We gained fundamental insight into a thin film's ability to localize strain. By taking advantage of geometric strain localization we were able to develop new strategies for responsive surfaces that will have a broad impact on adhesive, optical, and patterning applications. Using the rapid closure of the Venus flytrap's leafets as dictated by the onset of a snap instability as motivation, we created surfaces with patterned structures to transition through a snap instability at a prescribed stress state. This mechanism causes surface topography to change over large lateral length scales and very short timescales. Changes in the stress state can be related to triggers such as chemical swelling, light-induced architecture transitions, mechanical pressure, or voltage. The primary advantages of the snap transition are that the magnitude of change, the rate of change, and the sensitivity to change can be dictated by a balance of materials properties and geometry. The patterned structures that exhibit these dynamics are elastomeric shells that geometrically localize strain and can snap between concave and convex curvatures. We have demonstrated the control of the microlens shell geometry and that the transition time follows scaling relationships presented for the Venus flytrap. Furthermore, the microlens arrays have been demonstrated as surfaces that can alter wettability. Using a similar novel processing technique, microarrays of freestanding elastomeric plates were placed in equibiaxial compression to fabricate crumpled morphologies with strain localized regions that are difficult to attain through traditional patterning techniques. The microstructures that form can be initially described using classical plate buckling theory for circular plates under an applied compressive strain. Upon the application of increasing compressive strain, axisymmetric microstructures undergo a secondary bifurcation into highly curved, nonaxisymmetric structures. The inherent interplay between geometry and strain in these systems provides a mechanism for generating responsiveness in the structures. By swelling the elastomeric plates with a compatible solvent, we demonstrated the microstructures ability to reversibly switch between axisymmetric and nonaxisymmetric geometries. To further explore the localization of strain in materials, we have fabricated sharply folded films of glassy, homogenous polymers directly on rigid substrates. The films were uniaxially compressed and buckle after delaminating from the substrate. As the applied strain is increased, we observed strain localization at the center of the delaminated features. We found that normally brittle, polystyrene films can accommodate excessive compressive strains without fracture by undergoing these strain localizing fold events. This technique provided a unique way to examine the curvature and stability of folded features, but was not adequate for understanding the onset of folding. By taking thin films, either glassy or elastomeric, and simply lifting them from the surface of water, we observed and quantified the wrinkle-to-fold transition in an axisymmetric geometry. The films initially wrinkle as they are lifted with a wavelength that is determined by the film thickness and material properties. The wrinkle-to-fold transition is analogous to the transition observed in uniaxially compressed films, but the axisymmetric geometry caused the fold to act as a disclination that increased the radial stress in the film, thereby decreasing the wavelength of the remaining wrinkles. Further straining the films caused the remaining wrinkles to collapse into a discrete number of folds that is independent of film thickness and material properties.