The first part of this thesis deals with studying the effect of the specified bathymetric resolution and ideal bathymetric form parameters on the output from the wave and hydrodynamic modules of Delft-3D. This thesis then describes the use of an optimization to effectively reduce the required bathymetric sampling for input to a numerical forecast model, by using the model’s sensitivity to this input. A genetic algorithm is developed to gradually evolve the survey path for a ship, AUV, or other measurement platform to an optimum, with the resulting effect of the corresponding measured bathymetry on the model, used as a metric. Starting from an initial simulated set of possible random or heuristic sampling paths over the given bathymetry using certain constraints like limited length of track, the algorithm can be used to arrive at the path that would provide the best possible input to the model under those constraints. This suitability is tested by a comparison of the model results obtained by using these new simulated observations, with the results obtained using the best available bathymetry. Two test study areas were considered, and the algorithm was found to consistently converge to a sampling pattern that best captured the bathymetric variability critical to the model prediction.

The first part of this thesis deals with studying the effect of the specified bathymetric resolution and ideal bathymetric form parameters on the output from the wave and hydrodynamic modules of Delft-3D. This thesis then describes the use of an optimization to effectively reduce the required bathymetric sampling for input to a numerical forecast model, by using the model’s sensitivity to this input. A genetic algorithm is developed to gradually evolve the survey path for a ship, AUV, or other measurement platform to an optimum, with the resulting effect of the corresponding measured bathymetry on the model, used as a metric. Starting from an initial simulated set of possible random or heuristic sampling paths over the given bathymetry using certain constraints like limited length of track, the algorithm can be used to arrive at the path that would provide the best possible input to the model under those constraints. This suitability is tested by a comparison of the model results obtained by using these new simulated observations, with the results obtained using the best available bathymetry. Two test study areas were considered, and the algorithm was found to consistently converge to a sampling pattern that best captured the bathymetric variability critical to the model prediction.

Le phénomène global d’érosion côtière, notamment sur les rivages d’accumulation, tend à accroître les risques côtiers (érosion et submersion) dans les secteurs à enjeux. Dans ce contexte, les stratégies visant à la gestion des stocks sableux côtiers au sein même des cellules hydro-sédimentaires apparaissent comme une réponse potentielle à la gestion locale de l’érosion des accumulations littorales, et au-delà à la gestion de ces risques. Ces perspectives se heurtent encore à une insuffisance de connaissance des dynamiques géomorphologiques des avant-plages (partie immergée de la cellule). Pour autant, la connaissance des échanges au sein de la cellule et avec le large sont au coeur de la compréhension du fonctionnement des systèmes littoraux sableux. Les objectifs de cette thèse sont de renforcer les connaissances géomorphologiques des stocks sableux et de leur mobilité au sein des cellules littorales et, par l’amélioration de cette connaissance, de contribuer à l’élaboration de stratégies de gestion des risques côtiers.La comparaison de levés bathymétriques multi-temporels sur le temps long (séculaire) et court (annuel) à une échelle régionale et locale met en évidence les évolutions des avant-plages sur les côtes bretonnes du début du XXème siècle à nos jours. Ainsi, un des résultats majeurs est une inversion des tendances d’évolutions au milieu du XXème siècle. Une situation d’accrétion ou de stabilité relative laisse place à une érosion généralisée des avant-plages sur les côtes bretonnes. L’interprétation et la discussion de ces résultats permettent d’avancer des facteurs explicatifs de ces évolutions tels que les forçages météo-marins et anthropiques et les contraintes structurales. / The global phenomenon of coastal erosion, occurring especially on sandy coasts, tends to increase coastal risks in areas with key issues and concerns. In this context, stocks management strategies within sandy hydro-sedimentary coastal cells have appeared to be potential solutions to the local management of coastal erosion and their associated risks. However, despite their importance to determine management strategies, the dynamics of nearshore (submerged part of the cell) geomorphology remain poorly studied and partially understood. This PhD thesis aims to provide a better understanding of nearshore geomorphology in some specific sites and to contribute to the development of coastal risk management strategies.The study of multi-temporal bathymetric surveys at century-scale and annual-scale highlights significant evolution of the Brittany nearshore morphology from the beginning of the 20th century until today.In particular, a striking result is the reversal of the morphological evolution tendency in the mid-20th century. During the first half-century, the situation is steady, though nearshore morphology has a slight tendency toward accumulation. During the second half-century, we measured a net erosion tendency for all the survey sites. Interpretation and discussion of these results allow to determine the forcing of the nearshore morphodynamics, among which are climatic (coupled ocean-atmosphere) events, anthropogenic impacts and structural constraints.