Aging can be described as an extremely complex occurrence from which no organism can be excluded. Intrinsic and extrinsic aging make out the two components of skin aging and they differ on the macromolecular level while sharing specific molecular characteristics which include elevated levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) while collagen synthesis decreases. The skin functions as a protective barrier against the harsh environment and is essential for regulating body temperature. The stratum corneum (SC) is responsible for the main resistance to the penetration of most compounds; nevertheless the skin represents as an appropriate target for delivery. The target site for anti-aging treatment includes the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin. Calendula oil and L-carnitine L-tartrate was utilised as the cosmeceutical actives as they can be classified as a mixed category of compounds/products that lie between cosmetics and drugs. Both show excellent properties which can prove valuable during anti-aging treatment, whether it is due to the scavenging of ROS (calendula oil), moisturising effects (calendula oil and L-carnitine L-tartrate) or the improvement of the skin turnover rate (L-carnitine L-tartrate). The Pheroid™ delivery system can enhance the absorption of a selection of active ingredients. The aim of this study was to determine whether the Pheroid™ delivery system will enhance the flux and/or delivery of the named actives to the target site by performing Franz cell diffusion studies over an 8 h period, followed by tape stripping experiments. The Pheroid™ results of the actives were compared to the results obtained when 1 00 % calendula oil was applied and the L-carnitine L-tartrate was dissolved in phosphate buffer solution (PBS), respectively. In the case of calendula oil only a qualitative gas chromatography mass spectrometry (GC/MS) method could be employed. No calendula oil was observed to permeate through the skin, but linoleic acid (marker compound) was present in the epidermis and dermis layers. Components in the Pheroid™ delivery system hampered the results as the marker compound identified is a fundamental component of the Pheroid™, making it difficult to determine whether or not the Pheroid™ delivery system enhanced calendula oil's penetration. The aqueous solubility and log D partition coefficient of L-carnitine L-tartrate was determined. Inspection of the log D value of -1.35 indicated that the compound is unfavourable to penetrate the skin, whereas the aqueous solubility of 16.63 mg/ml in PBS at a temperature of 32º C indicated favourable penetration. During the Franz cell diffusion and tape stripping studies it was determined by liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (LC/MS) that carnitine may be inherent to human skin. Pheroid™ enhanced the flux (average of 0.0361 µg/cm2.h, median of 0.0393 µg/cm2.h) of the L-carnitine L-tartrate when compared to PBS (average of 0.0180 µg/cm2.h, median of 0.0142 µg/cm2.h ) for the time interval of 2 -8 h. The PBS was more effective in delivering the active to the target site (0.270 µg/ml in the epidermis and 2.403 µg/ml in the dermis) than Pheroid™ (0.111 µg/ml and 1.641 µg/ml in the epidermis and dermis respectively). Confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) confirmed the entrapment of L-carnitine L-tartrate in the Pheroid™ vesicle, while in the case of calendula oil it was impossible to differentiate between the oil and the Pheroid™ components. / Thesis (M.Sc. (Pharmaceutics))--North-West University, Potchefstroom Campus, 2009.

Aging can be described as an extremely complex occurrence from which no organism can be excluded. Intrinsic and extrinsic aging make out the two components of skin aging and they differ on the macromolecular level while sharing specific molecular characteristics which include elevated levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) while collagen synthesis decreases. The skin functions as a protective barrier against the harsh environment and is essential for regulating body temperature. The stratum corneum (SC) is responsible for the main resistance to the penetration of most compounds; nevertheless the skin represents as an appropriate target for delivery. The target site for anti-aging treatment includes the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin. Calendula oil and L-carnitine L-tartrate was utilised as the cosmeceutical actives as they can be classified as a mixed category of compounds/products that lie between cosmetics and drugs. Both show excellent properties which can prove valuable during anti-aging treatment, whether it is due to the scavenging of ROS (calendula oil), moisturising effects (calendula oil and L-carnitine L-tartrate) or the improvement of the skin turnover rate (L-carnitine L-tartrate). The Pheroid™ delivery system can enhance the absorption of a selection of active ingredients. The aim of this study was to determine whether the Pheroid™ delivery system will enhance the flux and/or delivery of the named actives to the target site by performing Franz cell diffusion studies over an 8 h period, followed by tape stripping experiments. The Pheroid™ results of the actives were compared to the results obtained when 1 00 % calendula oil was applied and the L-carnitine L-tartrate was dissolved in phosphate buffer solution (PBS), respectively. In the case of calendula oil only a qualitative gas chromatography mass spectrometry (GC/MS) method could be employed. No calendula oil was observed to permeate through the skin, but linoleic acid (marker compound) was present in the epidermis and dermis layers. Components in the Pheroid™ delivery system hampered the results as the marker compound identified is a fundamental component of the Pheroid™, making it difficult to determine whether or not the Pheroid™ delivery system enhanced calendula oil's penetration. The aqueous solubility and log D partition coefficient of L-carnitine L-tartrate was determined. Inspection of the log D value of -1.35 indicated that the compound is unfavourable to penetrate the skin, whereas the aqueous solubility of 16.63 mg/ml in PBS at a temperature of 32º C indicated favourable penetration. During the Franz cell diffusion and tape stripping studies it was determined by liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (LC/MS) that carnitine may be inherent to human skin. Pheroid™ enhanced the flux (average of 0.0361 µg/cm2.h, median of 0.0393 µg/cm2.h) of the L-carnitine L-tartrate when compared to PBS (average of 0.0180 µg/cm2.h, median of 0.0142 µg/cm2.h ) for the time interval of 2 -8 h. The PBS was more effective in delivering the active to the target site (0.270 µg/ml in the epidermis and 2.403 µg/ml in the dermis) than Pheroid™ (0.111 µg/ml and 1.641 µg/ml in the epidermis and dermis respectively). Confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) confirmed the entrapment of L-carnitine L-tartrate in the Pheroid™ vesicle, while in the case of calendula oil it was impossible to differentiate between the oil and the Pheroid™ components. / Thesis (M.Sc. (Pharmaceutics))--North-West University, Potchefstroom Campus, 2009.

O objetivo desta pesquisa foi desenvolver e aperfeiçoar uma formulação com fase gel lamelar contendo óleo de Calendula officinalis e avaliar seu potencial na atividade cicatrizante de úlceras em ratos. A formulação estudada possui valor de EHL 6,0, constituída por óleo de calêndula e sistema tensoativo formado por derivados etoxilados dos alcoóis cetílico e estearílico (Ceteth 2/Steareth 20). Primeiramente, determinou-se a região do diagrama ternário de fases em que se encontravam as emulsões com fase gel lamelares (EFGL), macroscopicamente estáveis. Em seguida foi avaliada a estabilidade do sistema e parâmetros que poderiam influenciar na formação das estruturas anisotrópicas. Avaliou-se o comportamento das emulsões utilizando o teste de perda de massa por evaporação. Na avaliação in vitro, foram realizados testes de citotoxidade do óleo de calêndula frente às células de fibroblastos da linhagem L929 através do ensaio de apoptose e necrose. O teste in vivo foi realizado através do Índice de Cicatrização de Úlceras (ICU) no modelo em dorso de ratos (úlcera excisional contrátil) a fim de avaliar o potencial cicatrizante da emulsão proposta comparando com o sham (grupo controle). As úlceras foram avaliadas mediante análise de imagem nos tempos de 0, 2, 7, 14 e 21 dias após o procedimento cirúrgico. A EFGL demonstrou maior estabilidade frente aos testes de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada em relação as demais formulações. Além disso, esta formulação demonstrou menor área de histerese (tixotropia), portanto menor grau de espalhabilidade e com maior tempo de contato com a úlcera. Durante a evaporação das emulsões houve manutenção das estruturas anisotrópicas O óleo bruto da Calendula officinalis não apresentou interferência na via da apoptose e necrose na concentração de até 1000 ?g/mL em fibroblastos L929. A formulação proposta promoveu melhor cicatrização no modelo de úlcera cutânea (ICU) na região dorsal de ratos, supondo- se modular a fase inflamatória do processo de cicatrização, pois o maior recrutamento de células inflamatórias bem como a colagênese, diminuída no grupo EFGL, foram fatores essenciais que permitiram a total reepitelização das úlceras cutâneas. Portanto, pode-se concluir que a metodologia utilizada nesta pesquisa foi útil para a obtenção de emulsões com fase gel lamelar, sendo que a formação dessa estrutura é importante para a estabilidade do sistema, podendo ser utilizada como uma formulação viável e eficaz no processo cicatricial de feridas. / The aim of this research was to improve a lamellar gel phase emulsion containing Calendula officinalis oil and to investigate its potential as a modern wound dressing. First, we determined the region of the ternary phase diagram in which the emulsions were stable and we also evaluated the intrinsic stability of the system and the action of some parameters which may influence the formation of lamellar gel phase. In addition, we analyzed the samples\' behavior during the evaporation process. Moreover, an in vitro cytotoxicity assay of the calendula oil was performed in order to evaluate apoptosis and necrosis in fibroblast cell line L929. Then, an in vivo test was carried out by the wound healing rate (WHR), using a specific model of ulcer in rats (excisional contractile ulcer), in order to assess potential healing of the proposed emulsion (LGP) by comparing with the sham group. The ulcers were evaluated by image analysis at 0, 2, 7, 14 and 21 days after surgery. The emulsion 6 \'showed greater stability in the preliminary and accelerated stability tests in relation to the previous studied formulation. Moreover, this formulation presented more compatible characteristics, because it showed smaller hysteresis area of ? (thixotropy), therefore a lower degree of spreadability and, accordingly, the formulation may increase contact span with ulcer, which is a desirable characteristic. During evaporation of the emulsions, the anisotropic structures were maintained, but their type varied depending on the decreased amount of water in the system. The crude oil of Calendula officinalis showed no interference with the pathway of apoptosis and necrosis in the concentration of 1000 mg / mL in L929 fibroblasts. The proposed model has promoted better wound healing rate in the ulcers in the dorsal region of rats. It seemed to modulate the inflammatory phase of the healing process, because of the increased recruitment of inflammatory cells as well as collagenesis, once LGP emulsion decreased in the group, were factors essential that allowed total reepithelialization of skin ulcers in rats treated with LGP emulsion. In conclusion, this study produced an enhanced and useful LGP which can be used as a new approach to stimulate the healing process and treat wounds efficiently.

O objetivo desta pesquisa foi desenvolver e aperfeiçoar uma formulação com fase gel lamelar contendo óleo de Calendula officinalis e avaliar seu potencial na atividade cicatrizante de úlceras em ratos. A formulação estudada possui valor de EHL 6,0, constituída por óleo de calêndula e sistema tensoativo formado por derivados etoxilados dos alcoóis cetílico e estearílico (Ceteth 2/Steareth 20). Primeiramente, determinou-se a região do diagrama ternário de fases em que se encontravam as emulsões com fase gel lamelares (EFGL), macroscopicamente estáveis. Em seguida foi avaliada a estabilidade do sistema e parâmetros que poderiam influenciar na formação das estruturas anisotrópicas. Avaliou-se o comportamento das emulsões utilizando o teste de perda de massa por evaporação. Na avaliação in vitro, foram realizados testes de citotoxidade do óleo de calêndula frente às células de fibroblastos da linhagem L929 através do ensaio de apoptose e necrose. O teste in vivo foi realizado através do Índice de Cicatrização de Úlceras (ICU) no modelo em dorso de ratos (úlcera excisional contrátil) a fim de avaliar o potencial cicatrizante da emulsão proposta comparando com o sham (grupo controle). As úlceras foram avaliadas mediante análise de imagem nos tempos de 0, 2, 7, 14 e 21 dias após o procedimento cirúrgico. A EFGL demonstrou maior estabilidade frente aos testes de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada em relação as demais formulações. Além disso, esta formulação demonstrou menor área de histerese (tixotropia), portanto menor grau de espalhabilidade e com maior tempo de contato com a úlcera. Durante a evaporação das emulsões houve manutenção das estruturas anisotrópicas O óleo bruto da Calendula officinalis não apresentou interferência na via da apoptose e necrose na concentração de até 1000 ?g/mL em fibroblastos L929. A formulação proposta promoveu melhor cicatrização no modelo de úlcera cutânea (ICU) na região dorsal de ratos, supondo- se modular a fase inflamatória do processo de cicatrização, pois o maior recrutamento de células inflamatórias bem como a colagênese, diminuída no grupo EFGL, foram fatores essenciais que permitiram a total reepitelização das úlceras cutâneas. Portanto, pode-se concluir que a metodologia utilizada nesta pesquisa foi útil para a obtenção de emulsões com fase gel lamelar, sendo que a formação dessa estrutura é importante para a estabilidade do sistema, podendo ser utilizada como uma formulação viável e eficaz no processo cicatricial de feridas. / The aim of this research was to improve a lamellar gel phase emulsion containing Calendula officinalis oil and to investigate its potential as a modern wound dressing. First, we determined the region of the ternary phase diagram in which the emulsions were stable and we also evaluated the intrinsic stability of the system and the action of some parameters which may influence the formation of lamellar gel phase. In addition, we analyzed the samples\' behavior during the evaporation process. Moreover, an in vitro cytotoxicity assay of the calendula oil was performed in order to evaluate apoptosis and necrosis in fibroblast cell line L929. Then, an in vivo test was carried out by the wound healing rate (WHR), using a specific model of ulcer in rats (excisional contractile ulcer), in order to assess potential healing of the proposed emulsion (LGP) by comparing with the sham group. The ulcers were evaluated by image analysis at 0, 2, 7, 14 and 21 days after surgery. The emulsion 6 \'showed greater stability in the preliminary and accelerated stability tests in relation to the previous studied formulation. Moreover, this formulation presented more compatible characteristics, because it showed smaller hysteresis area of ? (thixotropy), therefore a lower degree of spreadability and, accordingly, the formulation may increase contact span with ulcer, which is a desirable characteristic. During evaporation of the emulsions, the anisotropic structures were maintained, but their type varied depending on the decreased amount of water in the system. The crude oil of Calendula officinalis showed no interference with the pathway of apoptosis and necrosis in the concentration of 1000 mg / mL in L929 fibroblasts. The proposed model has promoted better wound healing rate in the ulcers in the dorsal region of rats. It seemed to modulate the inflammatory phase of the healing process, because of the increased recruitment of inflammatory cells as well as collagenesis, once LGP emulsion decreased in the group, were factors essential that allowed total reepithelialization of skin ulcers in rats treated with LGP emulsion. In conclusion, this study produced an enhanced and useful LGP which can be used as a new approach to stimulate the healing process and treat wounds efficiently.