Thesis (Ph.D.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Earth and Planetary Sciences, 1978. / Microfiche copy available in Archives and Science. / Bibliography: leaves 104-111. / by Nathan Hawley. / Ph.D.

The increasing concentration of carbon monoxide and other gases in the earth’s atmosphere is expected to cause temperatures on earth to increase. This condition, known as the greenhouse effect, could cause the sea level to rise due to the partial melting of the polar icecaps and the thermal expansion of the oceans. Such a rise in the sea level would affect the tides, currents, and sediment and salinity distributions within estuaries. To see the nature of these effects, a parametric study was performed on the Rappahannock River in Virginia with a two-dimensional, laterally averaged, time-dependent numerical model which simulates the movement of water and suspended sediment in the estuary. The model is a systematic sequence of mathematical procedures derived from the mass-balance equation and the equation of motion. These equations are solved through an explicit finite difference scheme. The astronomical tide, the increased height of the sea level due to the greenhouse effect and the additional tidal height due to a storm surge form the boundary conditions at the mouth of the river. Freshwater streamflows constitute the boundary condition at the upstream end of the estuary. A frequency analysis is performed for both the freshwater streamflows and the tidal heights. A procedure is developed which allows one to calculate the return period for various combinations of streamflow and tidal height. The results from each run of the estuary model are reviewed to study the tidal hydraulics and the longitudinal and vertical distributions of the sediment and salinity with and without the sea level rise. / Master of Science / incomplete_metadata

Utilizing field and modeling methodology, the effects of benthic micro-communities and physical transport mechanisms on sediment nutrient flux were investigated for two nearshore sediment types on Virginia’s Eastern Shore. Subtidal sandy mineral sediments were conducive to water transport and subsequently influenced by groundwater discharge to a greater degree than less permeable organic silt-clay sediments. Sediment ammonium and dissolved inorganic phosphorus (DIP) fluxes were strongly dependent on benthic aerobic respiration rates for silt-clay sediments as compared to sandy substrates. In situ studies indicated a significant decrease in ammonium and DIP fluxes as a result of nutrient uptake by benthic microalgal communities. The importance of advective solute transport mechanisms within nearshore sediments was demonstrated by a one-dimensional, steady-state model for a conservative substance. By incorporating dispersive and advective transport mechanisms, model predictability for chloride sediment flux was significantly improved as compared to a diffusion based model. Model results indicated that velocity associated transport of solutes, driven by elevated upland hydraulic heads, are significant and can dominate over diffusive flux in sandy sediment. In contrast, silt-clay sediment solute fluxes were dominated by dispersive processes. The importance of sedimentary nutrient flux in a shallow coastal embayment was demonstrated by short water column DIN and DIP turnover times with respect to sediment nutrient fluxes, by the significance of ammonium and DIP sediment nutrient fluxes with respect to phytoplankton nutrient assimilation demands, and by the relative importance of benthic respiration with respect to water column primary productivity. In order to evaluate water quality impacts of groundwater discharge on a larger scale, a surface, groundwater, and in situ groundwater discharge water quality survey was conducted in a shallow estuarine embayment. Sediment inorganic nitrogen fluxes were elevated adjacent to agricultural fields without benefit of a vegetative buffer. Nitrogen contributions from direct groundwater discharge and groundwater derived creek inputs appear to be of significant importance in terms of water quality and phytoplankton nitrogen assimilation demands. In summary, this study highlights the importance of nearshore sediments with regards to estuarine nutrient water quality and ecological processes. Neglecting groundwater discharge as a nutrient source and transport mechanism and potential biotic effects occurring at the sediment-water interface may lead to serious misinterpretation of data and error in water quality strategies. / Ph. D.

The reduced fresh water input into the St Lucia Estuary combined with the increase of sediment in the St Lucia Lake System has necessitated the implementation of a dredging programme. To ensure the effectiveness of the dredging programme, the behaviour of the sediment under various flow and tidal conditions needs to be determined. To establish how sediment will move, it is necessary to understand the hydrodynamics of the estuary. To achieve this, a hydrodynamic model which can be linked to a sediment transport model needs to be developed. Various existing types of hydrodynamic and sediment transport models are reviewed, to determine their suitability for the above purpose. Results of the analysis indicate that a two-dimensional hydrodynamic model is required. The two-dimensional hydrodynamic model developed is based on the momentum and continuity equations for an unsteady, non-uniform, free-surface flow for an incompressible fluid. The two dimensions are in the horizontal plane and flow is averaged over the depth. The equations are non-linear and are not decoupled, thus a numerical technique was needed to solve them. An Alternating Direction Implicit technique has been used. Boundary conditions in the modelled region were specified as flow velocity at the upstream boundary, and water levels, relative to the Mean Lake Level, at the downstream boundary. Two short simulations using hypothetical data were run on a 80826 IBM compatible. Results of the simulation indicate two areas where irregularities in the model output are a consequence of the use of hypothetical data in defining the boundary conditions. Recommendations for the collection of data in order to improve and calibrate the model are discussed. / Thesis (M.Sc.)-University of Natal, 1993.

Inputs, transfer processes, and storage characteristics of water and sediment have been investigated in a 40-km² estuarine system on the central Yukon coast. The setting is transgressive, microtidal, and high-latitude (69°N). The Babbage Estuary system can be subdivided into fluvial, tidal-distributary, delta-plain, intertidal, lagoon, marginal-supratidal, and barrier subsystems, each associated with one or more distinctive depositional environments and characteristic lithofacies assemblages. The structure of the system has been examined in terms of links between subsystems and overall system response to input perturbations. Although the propagation of tide and surge within the estuary may be treated as a quasi-linear stochastic process, transfers of fluvial water and sediment through the system are highly non-linear. Furthermore, the parameters of the system change dramatically on an annual cycle. Inputs and associated system responses are dominated in the short run by seasonal- and synoptic-scale variance, the former reflecting major seasonal adjustments in the phase distribution, circulation process, iand input regime of the estuary. The annual salinity cycle, with a range of at least 60 ppt, exhibits a short reaction and long relaxation response to major snowmelt runoff inputs in May or June, when salt water is flushed completely out of the estuary. Wind-generated waves are effectively absent from the system during 8-9 months of the year, but play a major role during the open-water season. Although direct transport of sediment by ice is relatively unimportant, ice effects are pervasive; they include, in addition to restriction of winter runoff and surface wave generation, creation of hypersaline conditions, control of the sedimentologically important flood events on deltaic supratidal flats, enhanced rates of coastal recession due to thermal degradation of ground ice, and production of distinctive thermokarst morphology on supratidal surfaces. Water level, storage volume, salinity, and suspended sediment series during the open-water season in the lagoon are dominated by synoptic-scale wind effects. In the delta, the major synoptic-scale anomalies of sediment concentration are related to storm runoff. Fluvial clastic sediment inputs to the estuary exceed 10⁸ kg A⁻¹ almost an order of magnitude greater than the estimated littoral transport input. More than 97% of the fluvial input may occur in June; of this, approximately half may be exported directly from the system. At long time scales, the estuarine system has been dominated by rising sea level and coastal recession; Holocene climatic fluctuations may also have been important. A transgressive sequence has developed, including various distinctive features, notably the absence or limited development of aeolian, backbarrier-margin, tidal-delta, and intertidal marsh facies, a largely afaunal intertidal component, and deltaic deposits with poorly developed levees and abundant lake basins. The basal fluvial component includes a sinuous gravel channel assemblage of a hitherto poorly documented type. The Babbage Estuary barrier sequence is primarily transgressive, but incorporates localized elements of progradational and inlet-migration models. Examples of major transgressive, progradational, and inlet-fill barrier sequences occur in close proximity on the central Yukon coast. / Arts, Faculty of / Geography, Department of / Graduate

Studies of episodic shoreline accretion of the Columbia River Littoral Cell (CRLC) have been ongoing since 1964. In this study, the sediment volumes in the late Holocene barriers and beach plains are compiled and formatted in GIS compatible databases for the four sub-cells of the CRLC. Initial evaluation involved the creation of a geodatabase of 160 dated retreat scarp positions, that were identified on across-shore GPR and borehole profiles. Ten primary timelines were identified throughout the CRLC (0-4700 ybp) and those were used to develop polygon cells. Elevation, distance measurements, and position information were all linked to the polygon through a centroid location within the geodatabase. Once the geodatabase was completed, data was imported into MSAccessTM to create a relational database that would allow for examination of the littoral cell in its entirety or of the individual sub-cells. Within the database, sediment volumes, ages, accretion rates, sediment thicknesses, and timeline relationships were calculated and recorded. Using the database, the accretion history of the Columbia River Littoral Cell was evaluated and this examination illustrated the complexity of the system. Northern littoral transport was shown to be an important factor in the development of the littoral cell as a whole. Total sediment volume in the littoral cell was calculated to be 1.74 x 109 m3, with a mean accretion rate of 1.90 x 104 m3/yr, which is significantly less than some previous studies. This is due to a more detailed analysis of the beach and foredune facies themselves. This is likely the result of the higher precision of beach and foredune surface information using LiDAR. The database shows that the developmental history of the CRLC is dependent on temporal and spatial constraints that can be coupled with reverse modeling to predict shoreline erosion trends from impounded river sediments and potential global sea level rise. The North Beaches and Grayland Plains sub-cells have the greatest potential for future erosion; followed by the Clatsop Plains sub-cell.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Dept. of Earth and Planetary Sciences, 1980. / Microfiche copy available in Archives and Science. / Vita. / Bibliography: leaves 234-241. / by Michael G. Fitzgerald. / Ph.D.

Reliable estimates of river discharge and sediment transport to the ocean from large tidal rivers are vital for water resources management, efficient river and harbor management, navigational purposes, and climate analyses. Due to the difficulties inherent in measuring tidal-river discharge, hydrological and sedimentological records are typically too short to adequately characterize long-term (decadal) trends. Also, uncertainties associated with observation and calibration of hydrological models suggest a need for more accurate methods based on longer records of hydrodynamic parameters (e.g. tides). Tidal theory indicates that tides and river discharge interact through quadratic bed friction, which diminishes and distorts the tidal wave as discharge increases. In this study, using tidal constituents, astronomical forcing and a model of the frictional interaction of flow and tides, I propose a novel Tidal Discharge Estimate (TDE) to predict freshwater discharge with an approximate averaging interval of 18 days for time periods with tidal data but no river flow records. Next, using continuous wavelet analysis of tidal properties, I develop a method of estimating river discharge using tides measured on multiple gages along tidal rivers to improve the time-resolution and accuracy of TDE. The applicability of the Multiple-gauge Discharge Estimate (MTDE) is first demonstrated in the two largest tidal-fluvial systems of the Pacific Northwest, the Columbia River Estuary (CRE) and Fraser River Estuary (FRE). A numerical model of an idealized estuary with similar forcing as the FRE and CRE is next run under different hydrologic and morphologic scenarios to evaluate the effect of convergence, friction, and river flow variations on the applicability of MTDE. The TDE method was applied to the San Francisco Bay, using the continuous hourly tide record available since 1858. Results show that TDE reproduces known San Francisco (SF) Bay delta inflows from 1930-present with a Nash-Sutcliffe coefficient of 0.81 and is a useful method for hindcasting historical flows from 1858 - 1929, a period that predates direct measurement of delta discharge. I also recover and digitize ~80 years of Sacramento River daily water level data between 1849 and 1946, from which river discharge to SF Bay is estimated on a daily basis, after adjusting for changes to the river channel. This discharge combined with Net Delta Outflow Index estimates (1930 - 2011) and flow estimates from tidal data (1858 - 2011) provides a more accurate version of SF Bay historic daily inflows from 1849 - 2011. Next, the history of sediment transport and discharge into SF Bay from 1849-present is reevaluated using the daily discharge estimates. A non-stationary rating curve between river flow and sediment transport is developed, with net sedimentation observed during five bathymetric surveys that were used to constrain the total integrated sediment discharge. Results show that ~1600±320 million-tons of sediment have been delivered to SF Bay between 1850 and 2011. There has been an approximately 25 - 30% reduction of annual flow since the 19th century, along with decreased sediment supply. This has resulted in a ~60% reduction in annual sediment delivery to SF Bay. The annual hydrograph of inflow to SF Bay and the seasonality of sediment flux have changed considerably over time, due to both human alteration and climate change. Significant historic spring-melt peak floods have disappeared in the modern system and now peak flows mostly occur in winter. My flow estimation methods also confirm that the flood of January 1862 had the largest daily sediment load and the second largest daily discharge since 1849.

In 1996, four cores (∼30 cm depth) were extracted from the high marsh zone of Dipper Harbour salt marsh in the Bay of Fundy. Soil bulk densities are shown to be controlled by mineral density and are higher than those reported for salt marshes in the northeastern United States. Examination of variations in mineral content suggests that regular tidal action and ice rafting deposits the majority of the mineral sediment to the high marsh zone. Dating techniques (based upon pollen, 137Cs, 210Pb and total Pb) were applied to selected cores, suggesting accretion rates from 0.25 to 0.31 cm yr-1 which are higher than the rates of local relative sea level rise. Correlation of trace metal densities (Cu, Fe, Pb and Zn) to Al densities were used to justify Al normalization. After consideration of natural sources and adsorption factors, the normalized Pb profiles are shown to reflect historical pollution levels of leaded gasoline consumption. Carbon storage values in the upper 25 cm of sediment range from 7.3--10.5 kg C m-2 and carbon accumulation rates vary from 95 to 124 g C m-2 yr-1, representing 15--29% of the salt marsh macrophyte productivity.

Estuarine studies worldwide have shown that sediment disturbance effects on the macrobenthos are reIated to the nature and scale of the disturbance. Decreased species densities, diversity and richness have been found where the substratum and current patterns have been altered either by direct removal or by the creation of channels . Sediment disturbance in the St. Lucia Narrows has occurred through dredging, beam trawling and episodic floods. The Narrows, a meandering tidal channel approximately 21 km long linking the st Lucia Lakes to the sea, were dredged between 1952 and 1971 to provide a greater flow of seawater to the lakes during periods of low lake levels. A canal was cut through land from the Mfolosi River to the Narrows in an attempt to ameliorate hypersaline conditions in the Lakes, but was never commissioned. Beam trawling has formed the basis of a prawn bait fishery since the 1930's. The bait boats trawl on the mudflats over the entire Narrows on a daily basis and often churn the substratum with their propellers. The objectives of this study were to determine the effects of dredging, a once-off large scale disturbance, and beam trawling, a frequent small scale disturbance, on the macrobenthos of the Narrows. Studies in 1983 and 1984 showed that the dredged channel was impoverished compared with the adjacent mudflat, and that the Link Canal was devoid of benthos. In 1988 species densities, especially of polychaetes, were found to be lower in areas open to beam trawling than in adjacent closed areas. The dredged channel during the present study was again impoverished compared with the adjacent mudflats. The three most abundant species occurring on the mudflats, the crab Tylodiplax blephariskios, the amphipod Victoriopsia chilkensis and capitellid polychaetes, were recorded at densities an order of magnitude lower in the channel than on the mudflats. The substratum in the channel was generally sandier than the mudflats, and this condition appeared to be maintained by the scouring action of tidal currents. It was calculated that the creation of the dredged channel had reduced the standing benthic biomass in the Narrows by a minimum of approximately 20%. The Link Canal was colonised by the three major mud flat species , but at densities an order of magnitude lower than the mudflats. Beam trawling of experimental sites at monthly and 6-monthly intervals on muddy and sandy substrata in the Narrows between July 1989 and July 1990 did not appear to have a negative effect on the benthos. The coverage of the bait boats was calculated to be comparable to the trawling effort in this study, and suggested that the bait fishery is not having a detrimental effect on the benthos. It was concluded that the macrobenthos in the Narrows represented a pioneering community characteristic of estuaries, either not affected by, or able to recover from small scale and episodic disturbances provided that there was no long term habitat modification. / Thesis (M.Sc.)-University of Natal, Durban, 1992.