Thesis (M.A. in anthropology)--Washington State University, December 2006. / Includes bibliographical references (p. 127-135).

Thesis (M.S.)--Ohio State University. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 140-148). Available online via OhioLINK's ETD Center

The warp knitting machine market has long been dominated by large-scale flat models, which have been steadily developed. Tubular fabrics are generally made in a special version of flat warp knitting machines containing two needle bars, one for each side of the tube, joined on the sides by yarns knitting alternatively on each bar. Warp knitting technology has failed to enter the circular knitting industry, dominated by weft knitting, due to its complexity in achieving warp knit structures in circular form. This thesis presents the design, synthesis, manufacture and test of an innovative method of producing tubular warp knitting fabrics, using a circular format rather than flat needle bars. This novel concept opens up many industrial applications from medical textiles to fruit packaging.

Fingermarks have been used for centuries as a means of determining an individual’s identity and fabrics have long been considered a difficult substrate from which to visualise and collect fingermarks. This study mainly concentrated on vacuum metal deposition (VMD) and cyanoacrylate fuming (CAF), to ascertain whether these methods could visualise planted marks and consequently be used in the examination of clothing from assault cases. Nine different fabrics: cotton, polycotton, polyester, nylon, nylon-Lycra, satin, silk, rayon and linen along with fifteen donors ranging in age, sex and ability to leave fingermarks were used during this work. The donors were previously tested on paper to determine their propensity to leave fingermarks, which gave an indication as to their donor ability level – poor, medium or good. The samples were collected and processed with the appropriate technique after a determined time interval, generally, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 14, 21 and 28 days, however this was altered for some of the trials. From the results, it was found that both VMD and CAF did visualise marks and ridge detail from latent fingermarks. VMD was found to be the most suitable technique for development of fingermarks on fabric, with gold + zinc VMD best for light coloured fabrics and silver VMD for dark. CAF also visualised several identifiable marks, even with the problems of background fluorescence from the basic yellow 40 (BY40) dye used to visualise the cyanoacrylate (CA) polymer. Generally, it appears that the smoother fabrics with a tighter weave, such as nylon and silk allowed the visualisation of more detail than rougher and/or looser weave fabrics such as cotton and linen. The latter tended only to show empty marks or marks, which gave indications of where the fabric had been touched. However, fabrics that did show marks, even if not suitable for identification, could still give information as to the sequence of events that may have occurred during an assault as well as identifying an area to tape for DNA. It was determined that it was possible to collect DNA from VMD visualised marks which led to partial and full profiles of those who touched and grabbed the test swatches or items of clothing tested. Though both VMD and CAF were affected by the addition of water to the surface of the fabrics being processed, marks and ridge detail were still detected, though CAF was less effective than VMD. With sequential treatment, it appears that the optimum sequence is VMD followed by CAF, due to enhancement of contrast between the metal deposits and BY40 yellow stained background. CAF then VMD only led to extra detail being observed on nylon-Lycra. There was limited success with 1,8-diaza-9-fluorenone (DFO), small particle reagent (SPR), ninhydrin, fluorescent powders or the sputter coater for alternative VMD metals. The production of nanoparticles was unsuccessful; so no fingermark visualisation was attempted. Finally, the issue of ridge detail being obscured by the fabric weave may have been resolved by the use of IR photography or FFT processing. In conclusion, both VMD and CAF are viable processes for the development of fingermark and palm detail on fabric, clothing and textiles. It must be considered however that the donor and fabric being processed greatly affected the level of detail visualised. However, even if ridge detail is not visualised, any marks that are present could indicate a sequence of events or act as an area to target for DNA profiling.

This work examines the history of industrial fabrics and investigates how certain of these fabrics have developed to meet the changing demands of their end-uses. It also examines how woven textile fabrics are increasingly competing with the traditional engineering materials as new fibres and filaments allow an ever increasing range of properties; improved fabric engineering techniques are also ensuring that industrial fabrics are more suited to their end-uses. To aid fabric engineering a greater knowledge is required of fabric structure and mechanics, so developments in this field are examined. To help improve fabric research of this type, realistic physical testing methods are required both to test the usefulness of mathematical models, and to simulate conditions experienced in use. Due to certain restrictions of this type of testing, a suitable selective fabric extension measuring device is required so that problem areas such as clamping effects can be avoided. The. lack ofa suitable device to help overcome problems such as this has been a long standing difficulty, so the development of a new fabric extension gauge was one of the main objects of this work. Before such a device could be developed research first involved a survey of many of the previous extension measuring devices, however, as expected nothing suitable emerged. After considering many ideas for possible new devices, it was decided to try and develop a gauge using the relatively new material PVDF piezo polymer film. This is a thin, low modulus film which develops an electrical charge proportional to a CHANGE in mechanical stress, and which can be easily cut to any desired dimensions. Initial attempts to develop a suitable extension measuring device were not completely successful, but when suitable following circuitry was found, and a proper mounting procedure determined, the new gauge appeared very promising. When it was considered that a suitable extension measuring device was available, the next task involved the design of a biaxial tensile and shear testing machine for the new Clothworkers' Textile Hechanics and Structures Laboratory. It was considered that the availability of a suitable selective extension measuring device was of paramount importance before the design of the new tester could be considered. This apparatus was based essentially on, the proven principles of Yendell's and Bassett's testers, but a number of unique features were to be added, such as independently controlled clamps, and the ability to cycle in shear. The principles involved in the design of the mechanical hardware are described, as also are certain original recommendations which have been suggested for the second stage of the project in which the sophisticated control, measurement and analysis techniques will be developed.

The study deals with the chemical and flame retardant (FR) treatment of woven flax fabric and preparation and characterization of flax reinforced phenolic composites. Sheets of flax fabric were subjected to chemical treatments using NaOH and silane coupling agents. A phosphate-based flame retardant (DAP) was applied to decrease the flammability of the flax fabric. The effect of the chemical treatments and FR treatments on the thermal and flammability properties of the fabric and composites was investigated using thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), vertical flame resistance test and cone calorimeter. The mechanical properties of the flax fabric and composites, before and after environmental ageing, were investigated. Ageing studies were carried out by exposing the samples in an environmental chamber at specified conditions for two weeks. TGA results showed that the treatment of the fabric with FR shifts the decomposition temperature to lower level and increases the char residue. Vertical flame resistance testing showed that FR treatment of the flax fabric improved the flammability properties. There was no after flame and afterglow observed for FR treated flax fabric due to self-extinguishment after removal of the flame. Flax Fabric without FR burned completely and there was no result for the char length due to the complete destruction of the fabric. The FR treatment, however, seemed to have had a negative effect on the tensile strength of the flax fabric. This was further intensified upon exposure of FR treated flax fabric to high temperatures during ageing studies which drastically reduced the tensile strength by more than 90%, and the flax fabric were found to be brittle and darker in visual appearance. TGA results of flax/phenolic composites showed that for composites containing chemically treated and FR treated flax fabric the decomposition temperatures shifted to lower temperatures; however there was no significant difference in the amount of char residue. Untreated flax/phenolic composites exhibited the lowest char residue. Cone calorimeter results showed that the peak heat release rate (PHRR), smoke production rate (SPR) and carbon dioxide (CO2) emission rate was reduced for the flax/phenolic composite produced using FR treated flax fabric. The tensile strength of these composites was reduced while there was an increase in modulus value. Exposure of the FR treated composites to high temperatures further reduced the tensile strength and increased the E-modulus. Both FR treated and untreated composites changed in colour and the FR treated composites were found to be brittle after exposure to high temperatures.

The relationship between the fabric parameters, as independent variables, and the comfort related properties, as dependent variables, of commercial suiting fabrics, containing both natural and man-made fibres, have been studied. The fabric parameters measured in the study were mass, thickness, density, and air permeability. The comfort related properties, tested on a Permetest instrument, included water vapour permeability, water vapour resistance, and thermal resistance, with the moisture permeability index being derived. A total of 26 commercial suiting fabrics, covering a wide range of mass, as well as different fibre types and blends and fabric structures, was tested. The fibres covered, included wool, polyester, viscose, and cotton, while the fabric structures covered were 1x1 plain weave, 2x1 twill and 2x2 twill weave. The objectives of this study were to determine the empirical relationships between the measured fabric properties and the measured comfort related properties, and to determine the role, if any, of fibre type and fabric structure, since many claims are made in practice concerning the relative advantages, in terms of comfort, of a specific fibre type or blend, or fabric structure, over others, some of which being supported by research results. Since the fabrics covered, were commercial and were not engineered so that the different fabric parameters (independent variables) and fibre type and blend, as well as fabric structure could be varied independently of each other, the effects of the various fabric parameters on the fabric comfort related properties were determined and quantified by multiple regression analyses (multi-linear and multi-quadratic), and the best fit regression equations, and contribution of each parameter to the overall fit established. It was found that fabric thickness and fabric mass had the largest effect on the comfort related properties as measured here, fabric mass determining, to a large extent, water vapour permeability, and fabric thickness, thermal resistance. The rest of the fabric parameters included in the study had only a relatively small effect on the measured comfort related properties. The influence of fabric parameters, with particular reference to mass and thickness, on the measured comfort related properties, were much greater than that of fibre type or blend, or fabric structure. It was, therefore, concluded from this study, that the fabric parameters, as opposed to the intrinsic characteristics of a particular fibre, whether natural or man-made, largely determined those fabric comfort related properties measured here.

Individuals sensitive to domestic cat allergen Fel d 1 experience a variety of symptoms including eye irritation, respiratory irritation, asthma, and severe respiratory distress. Fel d 1 is a protein produced in the saliva and on the skin of domestic cats. Previous studies have demonstrated that Fel d 1 adheres to clothing, upholstery, and human hair and has been found in non-cat environments in levels high enough to cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. In a general sense, two very different approaches have been adopted to study Fel d 1. One area of the literature focuses on the molecular biology of Fel d 1 and its functions at the cellular level. These studies hold long-term promise for an effective clinical response to this persistent allergen. An entirely separate literature focuses on immediate practical solutions that remove Fel d 1 from the domestic environment. Within this literature there has been minimal emphasis on the possibility that different fabrics may have different affinities for Fel d 1. Therefore, the affinity of Fel d 1 for different fabrics is the focus of this study. The findings from this study will be of use in reducing allergic reactions in sensitive individuals through the choice of appropriate fabrics in clothing and upholstery. Forty domestic household cats were chosen for this study. Each cat was rubbed, in a manner similar to petting, with an assembled fabric square based on a Latin-square design. Each Latin-square design consisted of a 6x6 fabric grid and included the fabrics silk dupioni, wool suiting, cotton denim, cotton damask, polyester suede and polyester knit. The random organization of the fabrics into the grid removed bias for the location of fabrics within the square during Fel d 1 collection. After rubbing, the Latin-square fabric iii block was disassembled and Fel d 1 was extracted from each fabric type and analyzed via quantitative ELISA. The results were statistically analyzed with a univariate ANOVA. Fabrics significantly differ (p

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