This research study examines the challenges facing CMTs in the Durban area. The researcher conducted a literature review on the evolution of the clothing industry, internationally and locally, the emergence of the CMT factory in Durban and the key aspects affecting CMTs in their current environment including yet not restricted to; imports, labour regulation, worker co-operation and CMT distributors. CMTs are the labour components in the clothing sector, providing jobs for woman and unskilled to semi-skilled individuals. Therefore, the poor performance of CMTs are cause for concern in South Africa, a country that is experiencing disturbing levels of unemployment. The evolution of the CMT factory highlights its reasons for coming into being i.e. short-run times and high productivity levels. When large manufacturers restructured to remain competitive, they shed the labour component of their operation. The reason for this move was to do away with labour issues. CMTs, in effect, became this labour component, without the benefits associated with that of a large manufacturing firm. However, the labour regulations that came into effect do not distinguish between a small business i.e. the CMT factory and a large manufacturer, as the same laws apply to both. The current CMT environment makes it difficult for employers to remain competitive, both locally and internationally, when factors such as low productivity hinder performance. The study provides vital information from the CMT employers' perspective and recommendations that have been made are practical and can be made use of with the help of the government. / Thesis (M.Com.)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, 2008.

Wage rate disparities between industrialized and underdeveloped countries have increased competition in labor intensive industries. To remain cost competitive, U.S. firms have developed alternative production strategies such as relocating labor intensive processes in countries with lower wages and labor costs. This type of manufacturing is known as production sharing. Item 807.0 of the United States Tariff Schedule provides an incentive for U.S. firms to utilize the coproduction process because it offers reduced tariff costs on imported products assembled with U.S. components. The duty paid is lower because it applies only to the value added in the foreign country. Highly labor intensive products, such as apparel, are ideally suited to take advantage of the savings offered under Item 807.0. The U.S. textile and apparel industry faces stiff import competition from low wage countries, and over the last fifteen years the volume of Item 807.0 apparel imports from the Caribbean has increased substantially. examines Item 807.0 and its effect of reducing This thesis the tariff base on an imported article such as apparel. Costa Rica, one of the leading Item 807.0 apparel suppliers, is used to study the relationship between Item 807.0 and the increased level of Caribbean sourcing of apparel production. The conclusion is that the tariff reductions of Item 807.0 should increase U.S. imports of Costa Rican apparel products made with U.S. components. However, Item 807.0 must be combined with low cost labor and competitive U.S. fabrics to be economically feasible. / M.A.

by Tang Wai Yin, Kerry. / Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1994. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 53-55). / abstract --- p.ii / TABLE OF CONTENTS --- p.iii / CHAPTER / Chapter I --- introduction --- p.1 / Purpose --- p.1 / Scope --- p.3 / Methodology --- p.4 / Revision of Original Plan --- p.5 / Chapter II --- LITERATURE REVIEW --- p.7 / Introduction --- p.7 / Brief History of ABC --- p.8 / Definition of ABC --- p.19 / abc Model --- p.20 / Chapter III --- ASIAN PACIFIC FORUM --- p.23 / Western Environment: --- p.23 / Asian Pacific Environment --- p.26 / Organization Behavioral Contrast --- p.28 / Chapter IV --- CASE STUDY --- p.33 / The Company --- p.33 / Management Strategy --- p.35 / Product Costing --- p.35 / Pricing --- p.37 / Implementation : The Struggle --- p.38 / The Customer --- p.38 / Opportunities and Threats --- p.39 / The Human Factor --- p.41 / The Stalemate --- p.43 / The What-if Scenario --- p.44 / Chapter V --- LIMITATIONS AND CONCLUSIONS --- p.46 / Limitation --- p.46 / Conclusion --- p.48 / APPENDIX / Chapter I --- Product Cost Comparison / Traditional and ABC Approach --- p.50 / Chapter II --- Process Re-engineering Through ABC --- p.52 / BIBLIOGRAPHY --- p.53

Vita. / Digitized by Kansas Correctional Industries

Typescript (photocopy). / Digitized by Kansas Correctional Industries

This reseacrh report is about the current role of the government/state in the restructuring of the clothing and textile industry in South Africa

M.Sc. / The Mvoti River is referred to as a ‘working river’ in that it is highly utilized and developed. It is also, however, in a severely degraded state according to recent ecological assessments that were carried out on the Lower Mvoti River in 2000 and 2005. Previously, this was mostly attributed to the specific activities related to a pulp and paper mill. However, findings of the abovementioned studies indicated that there are multiple stressors present in the system and to derive the combined effect of stressors in an environment affected by multiple activities, a characterization of the different contributing activities is required. Thus, this assessment was undertaken to determine the impact of one of the contributing stressors, i.e. sugar milling activities on the ecological integrity of the Mvoti River. The survey assessments, incorporating local and international accredited methods and techniques, were carried out over a high and low flow period during 2006. A BACI (before-after controlled impact)-research design was applied in this study. Four sites were selected on the Mvoti River, up and downstream of the Glendale Distillery (GDR and GDS) and the Ushukela Milling Company (USR and USS). The former sites were selected to assess the impact of a sugar mill alone and the latter to determine the combined effects of sugar milling and pulp and paper activities. Additionally, 2 sites were selected on the Amatikulu River, up and downstream of the Amatikulu Mill (AR and AS), to assess the effect of the sugar milling activities alone. This study consists of two components, namely the abiotic driver component and the biotic response component. The abiotic driver component involved the analysis of water quality, sediment and habitat quality in which physico-chemical variables of water and sediment were carried out during high and low flow periods and the habitat indices, Habitat Quality Index (HQI) and Integrated Habitat Assessment System (IHAS) were implemented. The biotic response component involved the assessment of the macroinvertebrate and fish community structures, as well as the determination of acute and chronic toxicity and mutagenicity resulting from exposure to mill effluent. The macroinvertebrate communities were assessed using the South African Scoring System Version 5 (SASS5) index and the fish communities were assessed using the Fish Assemblage Integrity Index (FAII). The toxicological assessments were carried out via the use of the Direct Estimation of Ecological Effect Potential, or DEEEP, methodology, and biomarkers.

Com o advento da Internet às indústrias, um novo cenário industrial conhecido como Indústria 4.0 ou Internet Industrial entra na agenda de pesquisa com potencial de ser entendido como uma nova revolução industrial. Impactos são tidos como certos no projeto, manufatura e na função do produto. Produtos inteligentes, dotados de identificação individualizada e cuja introdução envolve a geração, armazenamento, recuperação e uso de dados sobre os mesmos, estarão completamente integrados aos recursos de produção, levando ao estabelecimento dos cyber-physical production systems - CPPS, ou sistemas de produção físico-cibernéticos. A transição para o cenário industrial descrito demanda por qualificação dos profissionais envolvidos, por meio de estratégias adequadas de promoção do aprendizado. A demanda por estratégias adequadas de promoção do aprendizado remete a outro tema atual na agenda de pesquisa, que é relacionado ao momento de transição da educação profissional de engenheiros na direção da introdução de inovações focadas em maior exposição dos alunos a atividades práticas, o mais próximo possível da realidade das indústrias. Dentre as inovações as Fábricas de Aprendizagem, conceito que de forma sucinta é definido a partir das duas palavras do termo, fábrica e aprendizagem, e que trata de instalações dotadas de elementos de ambos, destacam-se ao endereçar problemas de falta de habilidades práticas entre engenheiros recém formados, com eficácia comprovada e documentação de casos bem-sucedidos de implantação na América do Norte e Europa. Lacunas foram por esta dissertação de mestrado consideradas além das já abordadas demanda por qualificação de profissionais envolvidos com a Indústria 4.0, e do cenário de introdução de inovações na formação de engenheiros. Foram também consideradas a demanda por análise conjunta da literatura relacionada a abordagem sistêmica para desenvolvimento de Fábricas de Aprendizagem, e de classificação das mesmas, assim como chamada por documentação de casos práticos de implantação. Esta dissertação de mestrado se insere, então, nas duas agendas de pesquisa mencionadas, ao realizar um estudo de caso de implantação de uma Fábrica de Aprendizagem, uma das inovações na formação de engenheiros, dedicada ao novo cenário industrial da Indústria 4.0. Três questões de pesquisa foram consideradas e estabeleceram um roteiro de classificação, descrição do processo de implantação e proposição de recomendações, roteiro este tomado como base para o estudo. Partindo de uma revisão de literatura focada na exposição de características industriais se tornando realidade nas indústrias e no histórico de inovações na formação de engenheiros que deu origem ao conceito de Fábricas de Aprendizagem, foram estabelecidos os padrões de referência para a condução da pesquisa. O estudo de caso fez uso de três fontes de dados (entrevistas, análise de documentos e observação de eventos) e traz como resultados a exposição da classificação alcançada e a descrição do processo de implantação, em comparação aos padrões resultantes da revisão de literatura, complementados por recomendações direcionadas à aderência aos mesmos. Como resultados adicionais podem também serem citados a proposta de análise conjunta dos requisitos envolvidos com a abordagem sistêmica de implantação identificada na literatura, assim como o questionário de pesquisa derivado do mesmo. A expectativa é de que os resultados contribuam com gestores, docentes e pesquisadores de instituições de ensino perseguindo inovações na formação de engenheiros e que estejam voltados para o desenvolvimento e implantação de instalações de Fábricas de Aprendizagem derivadas e/ou adaptadas a partir do modelo original. / From the advent of Internet in the shop floor, a new industrial scenario known as Industry 4.0 or Industrial Internet enters in the research agenda with potential to be taken as a new industrial revolution. Impacts are taken for granted in the project, manufacturing and function of the products. Intelligent products, gifted with individual identification and whose introduction involves the generation, storage, retrieval and use of data about themselves, will be completely integrated to the manufacturing resources, leading to the establishment of the Cyber Physical Production Systems- CPPS. The transition for the described industrial scenario demands qualification of the involved professionals, by means of suitable strategies of learning promotion. The demand for suitable strategies to promote learning refers to another current topic in the research agenda, which is related to the moment of transition of professional education of engineers towards the introduction of innovations focused on greater exposure of students to practical activities, the closest the reality of industries. Among the innovations, the Learning Factories, a concept that is succinctly defined from the two words of the term, factory and learning, and which deals with facilities with elements of both, stand out in addressing problems of lack of practical skills between newly trained engineers, with proven efficacy and documentation of successful deployment cases in North America and Europe. Gaps were by this master\'s dissertation considered beyond to the already discussed demand for qualification of professionals involved with Industry 4.0, and of the scenario of introduction of innovations in the training of engineers. It also considered the demand for joint analysis of the literature related to the systematic approach to development of Learning Factories, and their classification, as well as the call for documentation of practical cases of implantation. This dissertation is then part of the two research agendas mentioned above, when conducting a case study of the implantation of a Learning Factory, one of the innovations in the training of engineers, dedicated to the new industrial scenario of Industry 4.0. Three research questions were considered and they established a script of classification, description of the implantation process and proposal of recommendations, script that was taken as basis for the study. Starting from a literature review focused on the exposition of the industrial characteristics that are becoming a reality in the industries and the history of innovations in the training of engineers that gave rise to the concept of Learning Factories, the reference standards for conducting the research were established. The case study made use of three data sources (interviews, documents analysis and events observation) and brings as results the exposure of the classification achieved and the description of the implantation process, in comparison to the standards resulting from the literature review, complemented by recommendations leading towards to adherence to them. As additional results, the proposal of joint analysis of the requirements involved with the systemic approach of implantation identified in the literature, as well as the research questionnaire derived from it, can also be cited. The expectation is that the results contribute to managers, teachers and researchers from educational institutions pursuing innovations in the training of engineers and that are also focused on the development and implantation of facilities of Learning Factories derived and / or adapted from the original model.

Thesis is submitted in partial fulfilment for the degree of Master of Architecture (Professional) to the Faculty of Engineering and the Built Environment, School of Architecture and Planning at the University of the Witwatersrand, Johannesburg, 2017 / The home dressmaker is a figure so constant in domestic history that one would be hard pressed to find, even today, somebody who cannot recall a woman from their family sewing at the dining room table. Within a highly industrialised world people rely more than ever on the industry of the machine and it’s endless whirring of fast consumption production. In the process, we have lost the respect for both the process and the product of the hand-made object. The fast-food, fast-living, immediate-access and instant-gratification of a post war America and Europe began an erosion of the morals-of-making which people have relied upon for centuries. Growing industries of cheaply produced clothes, shoes and fabrics from India and China have decimated these formerly strong South African industries. This dissertation aims to address the continued role of home sewing- historically undocumented- as an ‘invisible’ economy and define its position as a driving force for change through a ‘Skills Revolution’. Using the lens of a South African born, Johannesburg based and family run dressmaking and sewing teaching business, Italian Dressmaking School, this thesis aims at addressing the pressing social and economic needs of South African creative industries by providing a platform for personal and community skills development and learning. Italian Dressmaking School was founded in 1961 by my grandmother Irene Sansalvadore, and today continues to provide the tools for women to learn the craft of home sewing. This dissertation aims at providing both the space for women, in particular, to gain a skill in a craft that has historically been considered ‘women’s work’ alongside aligned crafts of weaving and textile dyeing within the historic fabric trading area of Fordsburg. South Africa no longer produces much in the way of textiles, bar traditional shweshwe, which is produced solely in the Eastern Cape and a handful of smaller mills scattered around the country. While pure cotton and linen is hard to come by, increasingly expensive and highly desirable, South Africa on a whole imports all of this fabric from China, Russia and India amongst others. The aim of this project is to build onto an existing nucleus already to be found in Johannesburg, providing South Africas’ residents with the skills to start their own micro businesses centered around the production of cloth, the dyeing/colouring and/or printmaking of produced fabrics and the final garment construction with its dual phases of patternmaking and sewing. This thesis does not aim to compete with industries like China but rather to re-establish a formerly successful craft based industry. The autonomy of people in establishing their own identity is arguably one of the most essential needs after the most basic; survival. This dissertation is not for the fashionista but rather for the woman who has used her hands, for time immemorial, making the cloth that shrouds us all. / XL2018

Esta pesquisa tem como objetivo investigar as relações de comunicação em ambientes de fábricas recuperadas e/ou ocupadas, geridas pelos trabalhadores sob o modelo da autogestão. Nossas hipóteses se fundamentam na perspectiva de que a comunicação, assim como o trabalho, tem uma dimensão ontológica, ainda que este ocupe a posição de fundante do ser social. Esta dimensão ontológica faz com que a comunicação seja constitutiva tanto das relações de produção, quanto do próprio processo produtivo. Nosso recorte se faz sobre as fábricas autogestionadas, anteriormente organizadas sob a forma de sociedades de capital (empresas capitalistas). O que nos interessa é verificar como se dão as relações de comunicação em uma situação onde as relações de produção já não ocorrem sob o modelo hierarquizado tradicional de empresas capitalistas, bem como de que forma a comunicação funciona no modelo autogestionado. Além disso, partimos também da perspectiva de que o mundo do trabalho é a principal mediação nos processos comunicacionais, o que inclui a maneira pela qual o sujeito se relaciona com as formas da comunicação em geral (meios, mediações etc.), o que vem sendo demonstrado pelos estudos de Fígaro (2001 e 2008). Assim, esperamos contribuir com os resultados já alcançados, realizando nossa pesquisa em fábricas autogestionadas. Optamos por uma perspectiva multidisciplinar apoiada no materialismo histórico. Isso inclui o estudo das condições objetivas de realização da comunicação e nosso recurso aos estudos em economia política; o estudo da dimensão subjetiva e simbólica e nosso aporte à análise do discurso; assim como à filosofia e teoria de Marx e outros autores que seguem o seu pensamento. / This research aims to investigate the relations of communication in recovered factories environments and / or occupied, managed by workers under the model of self-management. Our hypotheses are based on the view that the communication, and the work has an ontological dimension, even though it occupies the foundational position of social being. This ontological dimension makes the communication is both constitutive relations of production, as the actual production process. Our look is done on the self-managed factories, previously organized in the form of capital companies (capitalist firms). What interests us is to see how to give the relations of communication in a situation where the relations of production do not arise under the traditional hierarchical model of capitalist enterprises, as well as how communication works in the self-managed model. It also set off the prospect that the world of work is the main mediation in communication processes, including the way in which the subject is related to the forms of communication in general (media, mediation etc.), which has being demonstrated by studies of Figaro (2001 and 2008). Thus, we hope to contribute to the results already achieved by conducting our research in self-managed factories. We opted for a multidisciplinary approach supported in historical materialism. This includes the study of objective conditions for implementing the communication and use of our studies in political economy; the study of subjective and symbolic dimension and our contribution to discourse analysis; as well as the philosophy and theory of Marx and others who follow your thinking.