Coastal foredunes are natural aeolian bedforms located landward of the backshore and which interact continuously with the beach. Traditionally, coastal dunes have been associated with onshore winds, however they can be found under more complex wind regimes where offshore winds are common such as the UK East coast, Northern Ireland and New Zealand. This research investigates the ways in which foredune-beach interactions occur under a complex wind regime at a range of overlapping temporal and spatial scales and is innovative in that it explicitly links small-scale processes and morphodynamic behaviour to large scale and long-term dynamics. The study area is the north Lincolnshire coast, East England. Detailed observations of airflow at three locations under varying wind regimes revealed considerable spatial variations in wind velocity and direction, however it was possible to determine a general model of how foredune topography deflected and modified airflow and the resultant geomorphological implications (i.e. erosion and deposition). During direct offshore and onshore winds, airflow remained attached and undeflected; and distinct zones of flow deceleration and acceleration could be identified. During oblique winds airflow was deflected to become more parallel to the dune crest. The field sites used are characterized by a seasonal erosion/accretion cycle and a series of increasingly complex models was developed and tested to determine whether it was possible to predict sand volume changes in the foredune-beach system based on a limited number of variables. The model predictions were tested against detailed digital terrain models at a seasonal timescale. The model prediction that best matched the observed (surveyed) sand volume changes included wind speed, direction, grain size, fetch effect controlled by beach inundation and angle of wind approach was accurate to within ±10% for 18 out of 48 tests at the seasonal scale and 6 out of 12 tests over periods of >5 years. A key variable influencing foredune-beach sand volume is the magnitude and frequency of storm surge events and this was not factored in to the model, but may explain the model-observation mismatch over the medium-term on two occasions. Over the past 120 years historical maps and aerial photographs indicate long-term foredune accretion of approximately 2 m year-1 at the three study sites (1891-2010). At this timescale, rates of coastal foredune accretion reflect the low occurrence of severe storm surges and suggest rapid post-storm recovery. The morphological response of the foredune-beach morphology is considered to be a combination of controlling and forcing factors. Process-responses within the system, associated with nearshore interactions and sediment transfer from the littoral drift, are compiled into a multi-scale morphodynamic model. Important to match appropriate dataset to scale of research question or management plan being explored. In the case of management, long-term records of past activity are necessary to predict the future but also to understand natural responses of system to short-term impact such as storm surge.

Coastal foredune evolution involves complex processes and controls. Although a great deal is known about the effects of vegetation cover, moisture, and fetch distance on sediment supply, and of topographic forcing on airflow dynamics, the role of large woody debris (LWD) as a modulator of sediment supply and a control on foredune growth is understudied. Large assemblages of LWD are common on beaches near forested watersheds and collectively have a degree of porosity that increases aerodynamic roughness and provides substantial sand trapping volume. To date, no research has attempted to understand the geomorphic role that LWD matrices, as a whole, have as roughness elements affecting airflow and sediment transport across a beach-dune system, or, what the long-term implications of these impacts are on beach and foredune erosion recovery and evolution. This four-year research initiative investigated the role of a LWD matrix on beach-dune morphodynamics on West Beach, Calvert Island on the central coast of British Columbia, Canada. This study integrated data from research that spanned three temporal scales, 1) event-scale (10 min) flow and sediment transport patterns, 2) daily frequency and relative magnitude of landscape changing events, 3) seasonal to interannual-scale volumetric and LWD changes. An event-scale experiment to characterise airflow dynamics and related sand transport patterns showed that LWD distinctly alters wind flow patterns and turbulence levels from that of incoming flow over a flat beach. Overall, mean wind speed and fluctuating flow properties declined as wind transitioned across the LWD. Streamwise mean energy was converted to turbulent energy, however, the reductions in mean flow properties were too great for the increased streamwise turbulence to have an effect on transport. In response to these flow alterations and more limited sand transport pathways to the foredune, sediment flux was reduced by 99% in the LWD compared to the open beach, thereby reducing sand supply to the foredune. Sand grains rebounding off of the LWD were carried higher into the flow field resulting in greater mass flux recorded at 20-50 cm in the LWD as opposed to the flat beach. This effect was only recorded 6 m into the LWD. As such, LWD has the potential to modulate rates of foredune recovery, growth, and evolution. Time-lapse photography collected at 15 min intervals during the study revealed that storm events lead to wave-induced erosion of the backshore and reworking of the LWD matrix. The exposed LWD matrix subsequently traps aeolian sediment that leads to rapid burial of the LWD and building of a raised platform for emergent vegetation. However, infilling of the accommodation space within the LWD matrix is so rapid, that sediment starvation of the foredune is short-lived. While the LWD at this site does trap sediment in the backshore, helping to protect the dune from scarping, LWD at this study site maintains an overall lower impact on transport to the foredune. Critical to this relationship is the frequency and magnitude of nearshore events that erode the beach periodically and re-organize the LWD matrix, which directly impacts the ability of LWD to store sediment and modulate transport to the foredune. A conceptual model exploring these relationships is presented. / Graduate

Increases in the frequency and magnitude of extreme water levels and storm surges are observed along some areas of the British Columbia coast to be correlated with known climatic variability (CV) phenomena, including the El Niño/Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO). Since a shift to a positive PDO regime in 1977, the effect of ENSO events have been more frequent, persistent, and intense. Teleconnected impacts include more frequent storms, higher surges, and greater coastal erosion. Geomorphic recovery of regional beach-dune systems from erosive events is usually rapid (i.e., within a year) by way of high onshore sand transport and aeolian delivery to the upper beach and dunes. At Wickaninnish Bay on the west coast of Vancouver Island, fast progradation rates (to +1.46 m a-1) have been observed in recent decades, in part due to rapid regional tectonic uplift and a resulting fall in relative sea level of ~ -0.9 mm a-1. The Wickaninnish foredune complex has rapidly extended alongshore in response to a net northward littoral drift and onshore sediment delivery. Bar deposition and welding processes supply sediment to the foredune complex via aeolian processes, and as a result, this is forcing Sandhill Creek northward toward the prograding (+0.71 m a-1) Combers Beach system, in part maintaining active erosion (-1.24 m a-1) of a bluff system landward of the channel. Bluff erosion generates substantial sediment volumes (-0.137 m3 m-2 a-1) that feed a large intertidal braided channel and delta system as the creek purges into the Pacific Ocean. As a first step in exploring the interactions between ocean-atmosphere forcing and beach-dune responses on the west coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada, the proposed thesis: 1) Examines and assembles the historic erosive water level regime and attempts to draw links to observed high magnitude storm events that have occurred in the Tofino-Ucluelet region (Wickaninnish Bay); and 2) Explores the geomorphic response of local shorelines by examining the geomorphology and historical evolution of a foredune-riverine-backshore bluff complex. Despite rapid shoreline progradation, foredune erosion occurs locally with a recurrence interval of ~1.53 yrs. followed by rapid rebuilding, often in the presence of large woody debris and rapidly colonizing vegetation, which drives a longer-term trend of shoreline progradation. This process is complicated locally, however, by the influence of local geological control (bedrock headlands) and backshore rivers, such as Sandhill Creek, which alter spatial-temporal patterns of both intertidal and supratidal erosion and deposition. This work is necessary to understand mechanisms responsible for erosive water levels and the process interaction responsible for subsequent coastal rebuilding following erosive periods. / Graduate / 0368 / derek.heathfield@gmail.com

Biological invasions provide a unique opportunity to study the mechanisms that regulate community composition and ecosystem function. Invasive species that are also ecosystem engineers can substantially alter physical features in an environment, and this can lead to cascading effects on the biological community. Aquatic-terrestrial interface ecosystems are excellent systems to study the interactions among invasive ecosystem engineers, physical features, and biological communities, because interactions among vegetation, sediment, and fluids within biophysical feedbacks create and modify distinct physical features. Further, these systems provide important ecosystem services including coastal protection afforded by their natural features. In this dissertation, I investigate the interactions and feedbacks among sand-binding beach grass species (a native, Elymus mollis (Trin.), and two non-natives, Ammophila arenaria (L.) Link and A. breviligulata Fernald), sediment supply, and dune shape along the U.S. Pacific Northwest coast. Dunes dominated by A. arenaria tend to be taller and narrower compared to the shorter, wider dunes dominated by A. breviligulata. These patterns suggest an ecological control on dune shape, and thus, coastal vulnerability to overtopping waves. I investigate the causes and consequences of these patterns with experiments, field observations, and modeling. Specifically, I investigate the relative roles of vegetation and sediment supply in shaping coastal dunes over inter-annual and multi-decadal time scales (Chapter 2), characterize a biophysical feedback between beach grass species growth habit and sediment supply (Chapter 3), uncover the mechanisms leading to beach grass coexistence and whether A. breviligulata can invade and dominate new sections of coastline (Chapter 4), and examine the non-target effects resulting from management actions that remove Ammophila for the recovery of the threatened Western Snowy plover (Charadrius alexandrinus nivosus) (Chapter 5). I found that vegetation and sediment supply play important roles in dune shape changes across inter-annual and multi-decadal time scales (Chapter 2). I determined that a biophysical feedback between the beach grass growth habits and sediment supply results in species-specific differences in sand capture ability, and thus, is a likely explanation for differences in dune shape (Chapter 3). I found that all three beach grass species can coexist across different sediment deposition rates, and that this coexistence is largely mediated by positive direct and indirect species interactions. I further determined that A. breviligulata is capable of invading and dominating the beach grass community in regions where it is currently absent (Chapter 4). Combined, these findings indicate that A. breviligulata is an inferior dune building species as compared to A. arenaria, and suggest that in combination with sediment supply gradients, these species differences ultimately lead to differences in dune shape. Potential further invasions of A. breviligulata into southern regions of the Pacific Northwest may diminish the coastal protection ability of dunes currently dominated by A. arenaria, but this effect could be moderated by the predicted near co-dominance of A. arenaria in these lower sediment supply conditions. Finally, I found that the techniques used to remove Ammophila for plover recovery have unintended consequences for the native and endemic dune plant communities, and disrupt the natural disturbance regime of shifting sand. A whole-ecosystem restoration focus would be an improvement over the target-species approach, as it would promote the return of the natural disturbance regime, which in turn, would help recover the native biological community. The findings from this dissertation research provide a robust knowledge base that can guide further investigations of biological and physical changes to the coastal dunes, can help improve the management of dune ecosystem services and the restoration of native communities, and can help anticipate the impacts of future beach grass invasions and climate change induced changes to the coast. / Graduation date: 2012 / Access restricted to the OSU Community at author's request from Sept. 22, 2011 - March 22, 2012