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The textile industry in South Africa is a significant contributor to the chemical load that public wastewater treatment plants have to process, and the discharge of toxic substances, especially to the aquatic environment. In order to address this issue at factory level, the processes at a textile plant, JMV Textiles were chosen for investigation into the possibilities of minimization of discharges of harmful substances into the environment. The study followed the principles of cleaner production, and the processes that were investigated and revised were: The conventional peroxide bleaching process employed a peroxide stabilizer that did not biodegrade easily. The bleaching process was changed, so that the prevailing conditions in the fabric and dyebath facilitated bleaching without the addition of peroxide stabilizer, and also reduced the alkali and energy requirements. Polyester‐viscose fabric was pretreated by bleaching with hydrogen peroxide, which seemed to be unnecessarily rigorous, because polyester and viscose, unlike natural fibres, are relatively clean and have good whiteness in comparison with natural fibres. The proposed alternate pretreatment was a scour with detergent and alkali. The pretreatment for all polyester‐cotton fabrics was also a hydrogen peroxide bleach. Due to the ability of medium and dark shades to mask the natural tint of cotton fibres, a simpler alternate pretreatment, consisting of an alkaline scour with sequestering agent, was trialled. An unacceptable proportion of the dyeings on polyester was rejected for dye‐stains and dye‐marks. A possible solution exploited the properties of using the finishing auxiliary chemical to alleviate dye‐stains and dye‐marks during the dyeing stage, instead of using the chemical after dyeing. The highly toxic carrier that was used to facilitate level dyeing of polyester fibres that had unacceptable variation in their dyeing properties, was replaced by a less toxic carrier. The formulation for dyeing polyester was simplified to eliminate the auxiliary chemicals that were not essential to the dyeing process. Pale reactive dyed shades on cellulose and polyester‐cellulose were washed off only with hot water instead of detergent. The revised procedures consequential to the study, offered significant environmental benefits by reducing the concentration and volume of effluent produced, substituting a highly toxic carrier with a less toxic one and saving energy and water. Implementation of the suggested changes also offered financial benefits. The management of the factory, however, accepted and implemented some changes, but wanted further investigations for others and a phased approach to the other suggested changes.

A indústria têxtil brasileira se posiciona como a quinta maior produtora mundial neste segmento. Entretanto, se constata que seu desenvolvimento de produto é ineficiente, não fazendo uso das metodologias de processo de desenvolvimento de produto (PDP) já consagradas no segmento industrial. Especificamente no desenvolvimento do tecido de malha, recorre-se a experiência do técnico desenvolvedor, onde o retrabalho é constante e pautado na tentativa e erro, gerando atrasos no cronograma para o lançamento de uma coleção. No cotidiano das empresas, a etapa conceitual é a mais negligenciada ao se desenvolver uma malha. As metodologias clássicas de PDP indicam que a etapa do projeto conceitual se destaca incidindo, entre outros aspectos, no custo e na diferenciação do produto. As referências bibliográficas, relativas ao PDP têxtil enfatizam a etapa conceitual relacionando-a com o sucesso do produto. Porém, nessas literaturas não se encontram indicativos de como conduzir a etapa conceitual. A presente dissertação tem o objetivo de apresentar o desenvolvimento de um modelo e ferramenta para desenvolvimento de malhas, na etapa conceitual. Para tanto, foi realizado um levantamento bibliográfico sobre: algumas metodologias de PDP clássicas; a indústria têxtil e seus segmentos; e o PDP na indústria têxtil; para, posteriormente, executar um levantamento de campo junto à empresas desenvolvedoras de malha, visando um diagnóstico do seu PDP. Em seguida, os resultados obtidos no levantamento de campo foram comparados aos referenciais bibliográficos, para identificar as lacunas existentes na prática. Com a verificação de que a etapa conceitual é a mais crítica na prática, concebeu-se uma metodologia para desenvolvimento de malha na etapa conceitual, baseada em Back e co-autores. Posteriormente, foi construída uma ferramenta computacional onde a abordagem proposta se desenvolve, gerando registros de todo o processamento. Para validar a ferramenta, foi conduzido experimento simulando situações de projeto. Ao final, os participantes responderam um questionário referente às percepções sobre o modelo e a ferramenta. Os resultados obtidos foram positivos, indicando ser este modelo de grande valia para o desenvolvimento de malha, aumentando a assertividade no seu desenvolvimento. / The Brazilian textile industry is the fifth largest producer in the world. However, it has an inefficient product development process (PDP), not employing formal design methodologies, since some of them are already well established in the industrial segment. Specifically in the development of knitted fabric, the experience of the technical developer is fundamental, but it does not avoid reworking, which is most of the time guided by a trial and error approach, causing delays in the collections launching. Data from a field survey suggest that the conceptual design phase, for example, is one of the most neglected. The classical methodologies for PDP indicate that the stage of conceptual design is important because it focuses, among other things, on the cost and product differentiation. The references concerning the textile PDP emphasize the conceptual design is related to the product success. However, this literature does not indicate how to implement the conceptual design in the textile environment. This dissertation proposes the development of a model and a tool for implementing conceptual phase for knitted products. First, it started with the research of some classic methodologies of PDP, the textile industry and its segments and the PDP in the textile industry. After that, the survey was conducted with companies working with knitted products in order to diagnose their PDPs. Then, the results were compared to bibliographical references in order to identify gaps in those practices. Based on the analysis that the conceptual phase is the most critical in practice, a methodology for the development of the conceptual phase was devised, based on Back and co-authors. Subsequently, a computational tool was implemented in order to generate records during all process. To validate the tool, the experiment was conducted simulating design situations. Finally, the participants answered a questionnaire regarding the model and tool performances. The results were positive, indicating that these model and tool are relevant for the development of knitted fabric, increasing assertiveness in its development.

A indústria têxtil brasileira se posiciona como a quinta maior produtora mundial neste segmento. Entretanto, se constata que seu desenvolvimento de produto é ineficiente, não fazendo uso das metodologias de processo de desenvolvimento de produto (PDP) já consagradas no segmento industrial. Especificamente no desenvolvimento do tecido de malha, recorre-se a experiência do técnico desenvolvedor, onde o retrabalho é constante e pautado na tentativa e erro, gerando atrasos no cronograma para o lançamento de uma coleção. No cotidiano das empresas, a etapa conceitual é a mais negligenciada ao se desenvolver uma malha. As metodologias clássicas de PDP indicam que a etapa do projeto conceitual se destaca incidindo, entre outros aspectos, no custo e na diferenciação do produto. As referências bibliográficas, relativas ao PDP têxtil enfatizam a etapa conceitual relacionando-a com o sucesso do produto. Porém, nessas literaturas não se encontram indicativos de como conduzir a etapa conceitual. A presente dissertação tem o objetivo de apresentar o desenvolvimento de um modelo e ferramenta para desenvolvimento de malhas, na etapa conceitual. Para tanto, foi realizado um levantamento bibliográfico sobre: algumas metodologias de PDP clássicas; a indústria têxtil e seus segmentos; e o PDP na indústria têxtil; para, posteriormente, executar um levantamento de campo junto à empresas desenvolvedoras de malha, visando um diagnóstico do seu PDP. Em seguida, os resultados obtidos no levantamento de campo foram comparados aos referenciais bibliográficos, para identificar as lacunas existentes na prática. Com a verificação de que a etapa conceitual é a mais crítica na prática, concebeu-se uma metodologia para desenvolvimento de malha na etapa conceitual, baseada em Back e co-autores. Posteriormente, foi construída uma ferramenta computacional onde a abordagem proposta se desenvolve, gerando registros de todo o processamento. Para validar a ferramenta, foi conduzido experimento simulando situações de projeto. Ao final, os participantes responderam um questionário referente às percepções sobre o modelo e a ferramenta. Os resultados obtidos foram positivos, indicando ser este modelo de grande valia para o desenvolvimento de malha, aumentando a assertividade no seu desenvolvimento. / The Brazilian textile industry is the fifth largest producer in the world. However, it has an inefficient product development process (PDP), not employing formal design methodologies, since some of them are already well established in the industrial segment. Specifically in the development of knitted fabric, the experience of the technical developer is fundamental, but it does not avoid reworking, which is most of the time guided by a trial and error approach, causing delays in the collections launching. Data from a field survey suggest that the conceptual design phase, for example, is one of the most neglected. The classical methodologies for PDP indicate that the stage of conceptual design is important because it focuses, among other things, on the cost and product differentiation. The references concerning the textile PDP emphasize the conceptual design is related to the product success. However, this literature does not indicate how to implement the conceptual design in the textile environment. This dissertation proposes the development of a model and a tool for implementing conceptual phase for knitted products. First, it started with the research of some classic methodologies of PDP, the textile industry and its segments and the PDP in the textile industry. After that, the survey was conducted with companies working with knitted products in order to diagnose their PDPs. Then, the results were compared to bibliographical references in order to identify gaps in those practices. Based on the analysis that the conceptual phase is the most critical in practice, a methodology for the development of the conceptual phase was devised, based on Back and co-authors. Subsequently, a computational tool was implemented in order to generate records during all process. To validate the tool, the experiment was conducted simulating design situations. Finally, the participants answered a questionnaire regarding the model and tool performances. The results were positive, indicating that these model and tool are relevant for the development of knitted fabric, increasing assertiveness in its development.