Thesis (Ph. D.)--Ohio State University, 2005. / Available online via OhioLINK's ETD Center; full text release delayed at author's request until 2008 Jul 28.

Thesis (M.A.)--University of Southern California, c2006. / "This thesis describes the development of a Web site, We dance with them: Pueblo Indian embroidery, which is based on the collection of embroidered textiles in the Indian Arts Research Center (IARC) in Santa Fe, New Mexico"--P. 1. "August 2006." Includes bibliographical references (p. 25).

Thesis (MVerbruikerswet)--University of Stellenbosch, 2005. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: The aim of the study was to investigate the compatibility of cotton/nylon and cotton/polyester warpknit terry towelling fabrics with industrial laundering procedures. The literature review focused, on the one hand, on the manufacture, finishing and structure of warp-knit terry towelling fabrics as well as on the physical structure, chemical nature and characteristics of the textile fibres used in the manufacturing of the towelling. On the other hand, a full exposition of the industrial laundering processes is provided, with specific reference to aspects that can have an effect on the towelling fabrics during the wash and tumble-drying cycles. Chapters Three and Four are reports on two research projects that can each be read independently. The aim of the first project was to determine the effect of industrial laundering procedures on the durability of cotton warp-knit terry towelling fabrics with a synthetic base structure. The tensile strength of cotton warp-knit terry towelling samples with a synthetic base structure was determined in the warp and weft directions and after 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50 wash cycles as well as wash and tumble-drying cycles. The tensile strengths in the warp direction of the washed terry towelling samples decreased significantly (p < 0.001) after 50 wash cycles. In contrast to this, the tensile strength in the weft direction increased, although not significantly (p > 0.05). As far as the comparison of the effect of industrial wash and wash and tumble-drying cycles is concerned, the tensile strengths in the warp direction of the towelling samples that were washed and washed/tumble-dried, were significantly lower (p < 0.001) after 20 and after 50 laundering cycles. As far as the tensile strengths in the weft direction were concerned, a similar pattern as with the wash and wash/tumble-drying processes, occurred. The tensile strengths initially increased and then gradually decreased. Furthermore, the tumble-drying process had greater damaging effects after 40 laundering cycles (p = 0.043) and especially after 50 laundering cycles (p < 0.0001). The aim of the second research project was to compare the durability of cotton warp-knit terry towelling fabrics with a nylon base structure with cotton warp-knit terry towelling fabrics with a polyester base structure after they had been subjected to industrial laundering processes. It was first established whether cotton/nylon and cotton/polyester warp-knit terry towelling fabrics are comparable. Secondly, the durability of cotton/nylon and cotton/polyester terry towelling fabrics was compared by determining the tensile strengths of the samples in the warp direction after they have been subjected to 50 industrial wash as well as wash and tumble-drying cycles. The two groups of untreated samples were regarded as similar on the basis of the percentage of fibre composition, knit fabric structure, knit density, mass and tensile strength. After 50 industrial wash cycles the tensile strengths of the cotton/nylon and cotton/polyester warp-knit terry towelling samples decreased significantly (p < 0.05). But there was no significant difference (p > 0.05) between the tensile strengths of the cotton/nylon and the cotton/polyester terry towelling samples after 50 washing cycles. There was a highly significant difference (p < 0.001) between the tensile strengths of the cotton/nylon and the cotton/polyester terry towelling samples after 50 wash and tumble-drying cycles. The tensile strength of the cotton/polyester terry towelling samples remained practically unchanged after the 50 wash/tumble-drying cycles, with the tensile strength of the cotton/nylon terry towelling samples decreased significantly (p < 0.001). / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Die doel van die studie was om ondersoek in te stel na die versoenbaarheid van katoen/nylon- en katoen/poliëster- skeringgebreide terriestofhanddoeke met industriële versorgingsprosedures. In die literatuuroorsig is daar enersyds gefokus op die vervaardiging, afwerking en struktuur van skeringgebreide terriehanddoekstowwe asook op die fisiese struktuur, chemiese aard en eienskappe van die tekstielvesels waarvan die handdoeke vervaardig is. Andersyds is ’n volledige uiteensetting van industriële versorgingsprosedures gegee, met spesifieke verwysing na aspekte wat tydens die was- en tuimeldrogingsiklusse ’n uitwerking op die handdoekstowwe kan hê. Hoofstukke drie en vier is opgeskryf as twee navorsingsprojekte wat elk ‘n geheel vorm. Die doel van die eerste projek was om die effek van industriële versorgingsprosedures op die duursaamheid van katoen skeringgebreide terriestofhanddoeke met ‘n sintetiese basisstruktuur te bepaal. Die breeksterkte van katoen skeringgebreide terriestofmonsters met ’n sintetiese basisstruktuur is in die skering- en inslagrigtings tydens en na afloop van 10, 20, 30, 40, en 50 was- asook was- en tuimeldrogingsiklusse bepaal. Die breeksterktes in die skeringrigting van die gewaste terriestofmonsters het betekenisvol afgeneem (p < 0.001) na 50 wassiklusse. In teenstelling hiermee het die breeksterktes in die inslagrigting toegeneem, hoewel nie betekenisvol nie (p > 0.05). Wat die vergelyking van die effek van industriële was- en was en tuimeldrogingsiklusse betref, is die breeksterktes in die skeringrigting van die handdoekmonsters wat gewas en gewas/getuimeldroog is, beduidend laer (p < 0.001) na 20 en na 50 versorgingsiklusse. Wat die breeksterktes in die inslagrigting betref het ‘n soortgelyke patroon by die was- en was/tuimeldrogingprosesse voorgekom. Die breeksterktes neem aanvanklik toe en daarna geleidelik af. Verder het die tuimeldrogingsproses na 40 versorgingsiklusse (p = 0.043) en veral na 50 versorgingsiklusse (p < 0.0001) ’n groter skadelike effek getoon. Die doel van die tweede navorsingsprojek was om die duursaamheid van katoen skeringgebreide terriestowwe met ’n nylon basisstruktuur te vergelyk met katoen skeringgebreide terriestowwe met ’n poliëster basisstruktuur nadat dit aan industriële versorgingsprosedures blootgestel is. Daar is eerstens vasgestel of katoen/nylon en katoen/poliëster terriehanddoekstowwe vergelykbaar is. Tweedens is die duursaamheid van katoen/nylon en katoen/poliëster terriestowwe vergelyk deur die breeksterktes van die monsters in die skeringrigting te bepaal nadat dit aan 50 industriële wasasook was- en tuimeldrogingsiklusse blootgestel is. Die twee groepe onbehandelde monsters is as soortgelyk beskou op grond van die persentasie veselsamestelling, breistofstruktuur, breidigtheid, massa en breeksterkte. Na 50 industriële wassiklusse het die breeksterktes van die katoen/nylon en katoen/poliëster skeringgebreide terriestofmonsters betekenisvol (p < 0.05) afgeneem. Daar was egter nie ’n betekenisvolle verskil (p > 0.05) tussen die breeksterktes van die katoen/nylon en katoen/poliëster terriestofmonsters na 50 wassiklusse nie. Daar was ’n hoogs betekenisvolle verskil (p < 0.001) tussen die breeksterktes van die katoen/nylon en katoen/poliëster terriestofmonsters na die 50 was/tuimeldrogingsiklusse. Die breeksterkte van die katoen/poliëster terriestofmonsters het na die 50 was/tuimeldrogingsiklusse feitlik onveranderd gebly terwyl die breeksterkte van die katoen/nylon terriestofmonsters hoogs betekenisvol (p < 0.001) afgeneem het.

Thesis (MSc )--University of Stellenbosch, 2001. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Washing and cleansing in an aqueous washing solution is a complex process involving the interaction of numerous physical and chemical processes. Investigations indicate that various factors present during repeated laundering might have an adverse effect on textile fabrics. Little is known, however, about the effect of the different mechanical wash actions on the deterioration of textiles. The automatic washing machines commonly used in South African households are often broadly classified as top loaders and front loaders. On closer inspection, however, it becomes clear that marked differences exist between the horizontal drum machines (H), vertical drum agitator type (V(A)) and vertical drum impeller type machines (V(/)). The effect of laundering on the wear life of textile fabrics has been extensively investigated, but a serious need for research on the effect of the different mechanical washing actions of the different washing machines on textile fabrics exists on both national and international level. A number of factors have an effect on textile deterioration during washing, e.g. number of washes, temperature of wash liquid, detergent type as well as fabric finishes and water quality. Fabric properties like changes in tensile strength, print deterioration and fraying, as well as electron microscope photographs, were used as indicators of mechanical deterioration to textiles. The broad aim of this exploratory study was firstly, to compare the effect of repeated washing in different domestic automatic washing machines (commonly used in South Africa) on the possible mechanical damage to textile fabrics and, secondly, to compare the soil removal efficiency of the mechanical wash actions of the different machines. An experimental study was therefore decided on. The washing of the test fabrics, as well as the testing, was carried out under controlled conditions in a laboratory. Apart from the different mechanical wash actions of the individual machines, the effect of the variables wash temperature, level of detergent and number of washes, was also investigated. This was done by measuring tensile strength, print deterioration and fraying propensity on samples laundered repeatedly at 40°C or 60°C, with and without detergent in the washing liquid, and comparing the colour change measured on laboratory-soiled test fabrics after washing. Analysis of the mechanical wash actions of the seven washing machines compared in this study indicated conspicuous differences among machines. It can be concluded that the mechanical wash action in the category V(A) machines is the most severe, and causes the highest reduction in tensile strength, the greatest print deterioration and the highest degree of fraying. These machines did not, however, exhibit greater soil removal efficiency than the other two categories of washing machines. The machines from category H did not exhibit a significantly different soil removal efficiency than those from category V(A), but their mechanical wash action proved to be less severe. Category V(/) machines seem to have the most delicate wash action and will probably cause the slightest fabric deterioration over the long term, but unfortunately produces poor soil removal efficiency results. This study also confirmed that washing fabrics in water alone causes more deterioration of tensile strength in fabrics than washing with detergent in the wash solution. Due to the limited scope and exploratory nature of this research/study, certain aspects of automatic washing machine processes could not be tested empirically. Recommendations for future research and implications for consumers were formulated. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Was en skoonmaak in 'n waterige oplossing is 'n komplekse proses wat 'n interaksie tussen verskeie fisiese en chemiese prosesse behels. Ondersoeke dui aan dat verskeie van die faktore teenwoordig tydens herhaalde wasprosesse 'n nadelige effek op tekstielstowwe mag he. Baie min is egter bekend oor die effek van die verskillende meganiese wasaksies op die degenerasie van tekstiele. Die outomatiese wasmasjiene wat algemeen in Suid-Afrikaanse huishoudings gebruik word, word dikwels breedweg geklassifiseer as bolaaiers en voorlaaiers. By nadere ondersoek word dit egter duidelik dat daar opvallende verskille bestaan tussen die horisontale drom masjiene (H), die vertikale drom roerder tipe ((V)A)) en die vertikale drom stuwer tipe (V(/)) masjiene. Die effek van was op die draleeftyd van tekstielstowwe is uitvoerig ondersoek, maar daar bestaan op beide nasionale en internasionale vlak In ernstige behoefte aan navorsing oor die effek van die verskillende meganiese wasaksies van die verskillende wasmasjiene op tekstielstowwe. Faktore 5005 die aantal wasse, temperatuur van die wasoplossing, detergent tipe, water kwaliteit en tekstielstoftipe en -afwerking(s) het In effek of tekstieldegenerasie gedurende was. Tekstielstofeienskappe 5005 veranderinge in die breeksterkte van die tekstielstof of die tekstielstofmassa per eenheidsarea, agteruitgang van bedrukking, rafeling, sowel as elektronmikroskoop foto's word as aanduiding van meganiese degenerasie t.o.v. tekstiele beskou. Die oorkoepelende doe I van hierdie eksploratiewe studie was eerstens, om die effek te vergelyk van herhaalde was in verskillende outomatiese wasmasjiene (algemeen in gebruik in Suid-Afrika) op die moontlike meganiese beskadiging aan tekstielstowwe, en tweedens, om die doeltreffendheid van vuilverwydering op die wasaksies van die verskillende masjiene te vergelyk. Daar is gevolglik op In eksperimentele studie besluit. Die was van die tekstielstowwe, sowel as die laboratoriumtoetse, is onder gekontroleerde atmosferiese toestande in In laboratorium uitgevoer. Afgesien van die verskillende meganiese wasaksies van die individuele masjiene, is die effek van die veranderlikes westemperetuur, detergentv!ak en aanta! wasse ook ondersoek. Dit is gedoen deur die bepaling van breeksterkte en die meting van die mate van agteruitgang van bedrukking en mate van geneigdheid tot rafeling van kledingstowwe na herhaalde was by 40°C en 60°C, met en sonder detergent in die wasvloeistof. Die kleurverandering na was is ook gemeet op laboratorium gevlekte monsters. Die analise van die meganiese wasaksie van die sewe wasmasjiene wat in hierdie studie vergelyk is, het opvallende verskille tussen masjiene uitgewys. Daar kan tot die gevolgtrekking gekom word dat die meganiese wasaksie in kategorie V(A) masjiene die ergste is, wat gevolglik die grootste verlaging in breeksterkte en die meeste afieruitgang van bedrukking en rafeling veroorsaak het. Hierdie masjiene het egter nie meer doeltreffende vuilverwydering tot gevolg gehad in vergelyking met die ander kategoriee van wasmasjiene nie. Die masjiene in kategorie H het nie 'n betekenisvolle verskil in doeltreffenheid van vuilverwydering van die van kategorie V(A) getoon nie, maar die meganiese wasaksie was minder straf. Kategorie V(/) masjiene het blykbaar die mees delikate wasaksie en sal moontlik die minste tekstielstof degenerasie oor die langtermyn toon, maar ongelukkig is die resultate t.o. v. die doeltreffendheid van vuilverwydering swak. Die studie bevestig dat die was van tekstielstowwe in water aileen 'n groter verlaging in breeksterkte van tekstielstowwe veroorsaak as wat die geval is wanneer met 'n detergent in die wasvloeistof gewas word. Weens die beperkte omvang en eksploratiewe aard van die studie kon sekere aspekte van die outomatiese wasprosesse nie empiries getoets word nie. Aanbevelings vir toekomstige navorsing en implikasies vir verbruikers is geformuleer.

The people of ancient Peru produced textiles four thousand years before the Spanish Conquest in 1532 A.D.. They used almost every known technique and created some of the world's most outstanding handwoven textiles. One of the most visually exciting groups are the finely woven interlocking tapestry tunics that served as the official garments of the Wari (Huari) culture (c.700-1000 A.D.). The Wari maintained a highly organized social and economic state and its rigidity is manifested in the formal iconography and artistic conventions of their textiles. With sophisticated design principles and the masterful use of colour, however, the Wari counteracted the problems of monotony and repetition inherent in the strictly prescribed design of the garments. Few of the existing Wari tunics have accompanying scientific provenience or grave associations and therefore little is known of their cultural role. An art historical approach, however, utilizing stylistic analysis breaks the barrier created by the sparse scientific documentation and facilitates the deciphering of design conventions. Very little has been written specifically on Wari textiles. To date, the most important work is a brief article by Alan Sawyer. (Sawyer, 1963:27-38) In it he examines some of the complex design conventions and suggests a methodology for establishing a relative chronology. His methodology will be used in this study. This thesis begins with an examination of the Wari culture based on well documented ceramic evidence and continues with a discussion of provenience (when known), distribution, technology and iconography of the textiles. The focus of this study is the use of design conventions. Examination of three major design conventions - lateral distortion, symmetry and colour usage - is followed by a comparative analysis and a discussion of relevant ceramic evidence. Sawyer has divided Wari official garments into the following three types: 1. Type 1 - Paired elements 2. Type 2 - Composite motifs 3. Type 3 - Staff bearing anthropomorphic figures. This thesis is primarily concerned with the first type. The sample for this study consists of 47 representative examples ranging from fragments to complete tunics of Type 1. Through the examination of lateral distortion and the comparative analysis of relevant ceramic evidence and known textile provenience, a relative chronology can be proposed. It will be shown that it is possible to evaluate the design conventions of symmetry and colour usage to determine the rules governing their application. This in turn permits the identification of regional and temporal traits. / Arts, Faculty of / Art History, Visual Art and Theory, Department of / Graduate

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Recent social changes in American family lifestyles have led many educators to rethink traditional curriculum decisions and to subsequently redirect secondary home economics programs. With the passage of the Carl D. Perkins Vocational Act of 1984, new directions were established for vocational educators (Hughes, Kister, & Smith, 1985). Through the use of the ethnographic interview, the researcher investigated ways in which these changes have affected the clothing and textiles teaching practices of five Virginia secondary teachers of consumer and homemaking comprehensive classes. The researcher investigated the amount of time spent sewing. and the informants’ justification for teaching clothing construction. The teachers were also asked to comment on their beliefs concerning current trends and their recommendations for future curriculum revisions. The teachers interviewed expressed a greater interest in meeting the needs of their students than in following current trends. In an apparent contradiction, they cited reasons for reduced interest and decreased need for sewing instruction but seemed reluctant to reduce or eliminate sewing instruction in the classroom. The amount of time spent during the school year on sewing projects ranged from none to nine weeks. The teachers interviewed spent an additional two to six weeks of classroom time in the study of other areas of clothing and textiles. The informants' knowledge of current educational trends appeared to come from area supervisors, inservice education, and their peers. None of the teachers interviewed indicated they read professional journals. The results of this research provide implications for inservice education content related to clothing and textiles for home economics teachers. / Master of Science

Garment construction is based on converting a fashion fabric into a wearable structure. Interfacings are attached to the fashion fabric in enclosed seams to provide support and stiffness for the seam area. Interfacings affect how the fashion fabric can bend. Therefore, it is the purpose of this study to determine the effect fusible and nonfusible nonwoven interfacings have on three bending properties of a lightweight suiting fabric. These three properties are flexural rigidity, crease recovery, and seam head size. A lightweight suiting fabric, a nonwoven fusible interfacing, and a nonwoven nonfusible interfacing were selected for the study. The flexural rigidity and crease recovery were measured for the component pieces of fashion fabric, nonfusible interfacing, and fusible interfacing and for the fusible and nonfusible composites. The flexural rigidity and crease recovery for the composites were recorded for the composite bent with the interfacing side up and with the interfacing side down. Seam head size was measured for enclosed seams with no interfacing (control), fusible interfacing, and nonfusible interfacing. Cross-sections of the enclosed seams were photographed against a ruler with hundredths of an inch increments. The seam head size was read from each of the photographic slides. Seven null hypotheses were tested. The hypotheses pertained to bending resistance and crease recovery of composites and their components, interfacing side up and down when bending and creasing, and fusible and nonfusible composites; and to seam head sizes of composites of the three selected fabrics. It was found that it did not make a difference which interfacing type is used (fusible or nonfusible) with respect to crease recovery and seam head size. It did make a difference which interfacing type was used with respect to flexural rigidity. The fusible composite was 2. 47 times stiffer than the nonfusible, however. / Master of Science

Malfunctions on loom machines are the main causes of faulty fabric production. An on-loom fabric inspection system is a real-time monitoring device that enables immediate defect detection for human intervention. This dissertation presented a solution for the on-loom fabric defect inspection, including the new hardware design—the configurable contact image sensor (CIS) module—for on-loom fabric scanning and the defect detection algorithms. The main contributions of this work include (1) creating a configurable CIS module adaptable to a loom width, which brings CIS unique features, such as sub-millimeter resolution, compact size, short working distance and low cost, to the fabric defect inspection system, (2) designing a two-level hardware architecture that can be efficiently deployed in a weaving factory with hundreds of looms, (3) developing a two-level inspecting scheme, with which the initial defect screening is performed on the Raspberry Pi and the intensive defect verification is processed on the cloud server, (4) introducing the novel pairwise-potential activation layer to a convolutional neural network that leads to high accuracies of defect segmentation on fabrics with fine and imbalanced structures, (5) achieving a real-time defect detection that allows a possible defect to be examined multiple times, and (6) implementing a new color segmentation technique suitable for processing multi-color fabric defects. The novel CIS-based on-loom scanning system offered real-time and high-resolution fabric images, which was able to deliver the information of single thread on a fabric. The algorithm evaluation on the fabric defect datasets showed a non-miss-detection rate on defect-free fabrics. The average precision of defect existed images reached above 90% at the pixel level. The detected defect pixels' integrity—the recall scored around 70%. Possible defect regions overestimated on ground truth images and the morphologies of fine defects similar to regular fabric pattern were the two major reasons that caused the imperfection in defect pixel locating. The experiments showed the defect areas on multi-color fabrics could be precisely located under the proposed color segmentation algorithm.

This dissertation is submitted to the faculty of History of Arts, University of the Witwatersrand, Johannesburg in fulfilment of the Degree of Master of Arts, Johannesburg 2017 / The dissertation take a multi-layered approach to under=standing the body in art, politics, history and space as a moving, understanding and signifying entity. as this dissertation is presented as a magazine, my deliberation starts with its design. Every chapter can be taken to address another layer to Mary Sibande's artwork Sophie: [No abstract provided. Information taken from introduction]. / XL2018