The integration of wire-form, nickel titanium (NiTi), shape memory alloys (SMA), within woven structures, offers the potential to generate unique properties in this bi-material composite. The combination of two materials, one of which can be modified with regard to its stiffness and elastic behaviour, gives further latitude for the textile designer to adapt a combination of functional and aesthetic properties in constructed textiles. To date, there has been limited research into the impact textile structures could have on both direct and indirect shape transfer from an integrated SMA component. This thesis overviews the integration of shape memory materials in textile structures informed through practice.

Dans le cadre du projet RaidOUTILS, un nouveau procédé de production de renforts textiles pour pièces composites est conçu. Il permet de réaliser des pièces profilées à section constantes ou non avec des orientations et liages multiples dans l'épaisseur. Un large choix de géométries est possible, il est donc nécessaire d'anticiper la structure à partir de la cinématique du procédé. Une modélisation permet cette anticipation. La technologie RaidOUTILS est une hybridation entre les procédés de tissage et de tressage. La combinaison des caractéristiques de ces deux technologies vise à éviter les découpes, les assemblages ou la mise en forme qui sont des manipulations sources de défaut. Les entrelacements peuvent se faire sur plusieurs couches comme sur un interlock. L'indépendance des guide-fils permet des entrelacements dans toute la structure. Elle perme enfin de proposer des structures à section évolutives par le choix d'une cinématique adaptée. La modélisation géométrique est basée sur une détection de rencontre des fils les uns par rapport aux autres et ne fait pas intervenir de notions mécaniques telles que le contact ou le frottement. La structure est définit par les fils, à section circulaire et constante, et par une ligne moyenne passant par les nœuds. Le temps de calcul est réduit pour obtenir une première estimation de la structure à l'échelle macro en termes de géométrie globale : orientation et entrelacement des fils. Le but est de permettre de faire le lien entre un moyen de production de renfort textile 3D, sa compréhension et l'optimisation de son utilisation selon des critères utiles à la réalisation de pièces composites élancées. / The RaidOUTILS project aims the production of textile reinforcement for composite parts. Manufacturing of stiffeners with constant, as well as variable, cross sectional shape is possible. Interlacing is possible trough the thickness of the material and leads to a wide range of fibre orientation within the textile reinforcement. The RaidOUTILS technology is a hybridisation of braiding and weaving manufacturing. By combining properties from both technologies, steps such as cutting, joining and forming can be avoid. Those steps introduce defect in traditional reinforcement manufacturing cycle. Based on independent motion for each yarn within the structure it is possible to control interlacing and modify cross section. Modelling is also proposed for this process. It represents the yarn kinematic based on the existing machinery. The simple model is necessary to have a low calculation time to get the virtual skeleton of the structure. This skeleton returns data such as interlacing, orientation of the preform. The aim of the project is the creation of a new 3D textile manufacturing process and also to make the link between a product (textile) and the process by modelling.

L’objectif de ce travail est la création d’un afficheur électrochrome textile, et mettre en œuvre son développement par le biais du système d’assemblage Intellitex. Il n’existe pas actuellement d’afficheur électrochrome basé sur un support textile. Le premier objectif était de démontrer la faisabilité d’un afficheur électrochrome textile. Cet afficheur a été établi en utilisant un composé inorganique, le Bleu de Prusse, passant du jaune au bleu. L’emploi d’une structure non-tissée en tant que « spacer » s’est révélée avantageuse pour le maintien du composé électrochrome liquide, et pour éviter les court-circuits entre les électrodes. Après l’étude de faisabilité, les polymères conducteurs ont été choisis en raison de leurs méthodes d’élaboration mieux adaptée à une structure textile, mais aussi pour leur meilleure durée de vie. L’emploi de la polyaniline sous forme solide, recouvrant les fibres des supports non tissé, a montré une meilleure durée de vie, avec une couleur variant du vert au bleu. Afin de multiplier le nombre de couleurs disponibles, nous avons choisi l’utilisation de polythiophènes, ainsi que le mélange de composés polythiophènes entre eux. Huit composés ont été sélectionnés, et quatre types de mélanges, avec des ratios massiques différents, ont été testés. Les procédés d’élaboration des afficheurs électrochromes textiles dits de « première (Bleu de Prusse) et deuxième (polymères conducteurs) génération » au système d’assemblage Intellitex sont détaillés. Les afficheurs électrochromes seront prochainement élaborés intégralement par le système d’assemblage Intellitex. / The objective of this work is the creation of an electrochromic display textiles, and implement its development through the assembly system Intellitex. There are currently no electrochromic display based on a textile substrate. The first objective was to demonstrate the feasibility of an electrochromic textile display. This display was prepared using an inorganic compound, Prussian blue, from yellow to blue. The use of a non-woven structure as a " spacer " has proved advantageous for maintaining the liquid electrochromic compound and to prevent short-circuits between the electrodes. After the feasibility study, conducting polymers were chosen because of their methods of preparation best suited to a textile structure, but also for their better life cycle. The use of polyaniline solid form, media covering the fiber nonwoven showed a better life cycle, with a color change from green to blue. To increase the number of colors available, polythiophenes, and the mixture of polythiophenes were choosen. Eight compounds were selected, and four types of mixtures with different mass ratios were tested.The processes for electrochromic displays textiles called "first (Prussian blue) and second (conductive polymers) generation" Intellitex assembly system are detailed. Electrochromic displays will soon be fully developed by the assembly system Intellitex.

Cette étude s’inscrit dans le cadre du projet PHOS-ISTOS 7ème Programme Cadre de Recherche et Développement (FP7). L’objectif du projet est de développer une méthode alternative pour une application médicale, la thérapie photo dynamique (PDT), en combinant les méthodes de fabrication de l'industrie textile avec des sources laser et des dispositifs optiques. La PDT est une méthode de traitement de la Kératose Actinique efficace, bien tolérée et non invasive. L’effet thérapeutique de la PDT dépend de la substance photosensibilisante, de l'oxygénation de la tumeur et de la dose de lumière appliquée. Aujourd’hui la lumière utilisée pour activer les agents photo-sensibilisants dans le protocole de la PDT classique est délivrée par des panneaux constitués de LEDs. Cependant, ces panneaux ont des inconvénients tels que la non-uniformité de l’émission de la lumière sur les surfaces courbées, liés à leur rigidité, et la douleur provoquée par la dose élevée de la lumière pendant l'exposition. Afin de développer une alternative efficace aux panneaux LEDs, nous avons proposé d’insérer des fibres optiques en Poly(Méthacrylate de Méthyle) (PMMA) dans un textile flexible qui s’adapte à la morphologie du corps humain et qui diffuse une lumière issue des sources lasers connectées aux extrémités du tissu. Dans cette étude, le comportement des fibres optiques insérées dans des structures tissées est étudié afin de développer un tissu lumineux qui diffuse une lumière puissante et homogène. Ce projet s’intègre dans la démarche de développement des textiles intelligents, en élaborant des applications à haute valeur ajoutée destinées aux marchés des textiles médicaux. / This study is part of the PHOS-ISTOS project within 7th Framework Program for Research and Development (FP7). The objective of the project is to develop an alternative method for a medical application, Photo Dynamic Therapy (PDT), combining the manufacturing methods of the textile industry with laser sources and optical devices. PDT is an effective, well tolerated and non-invasive treatment procedure. The therapeutic effect of PDT depends on the photosensitizer substance, the oxygenation of the tumor and the dose of light applied. Today, the light used to activate the photo-sensitizing agents in the conventional PDT protocol is delivered by panels consisting of LEDs. However, these panels have disadvantages such as the non-uniformity of the emission of light on the curved surfaces due to their rigidity and the pain caused by the high dose of light during exposure. In order to develop an efficient alternative to LED panels, we proposed to insert Poly(Methyl Methacrylate) (PMMA) optical fibers into a flexible fabric that adapts to the morphology of the human body and that diffuses light from laser sources laterally. In this study, the behavior of optical fibers inserted in woven structures is studied in order to develop the light emitting fabric that diffuses a powerful and homogeneous light. The value of smart textiles has increased over the past fifteen years. This project is integrated into this approach by developing high value-added applications for the medical textile innovation markets.

Dans le cadre du projet Européen MAPICC 3D, un nouveau procédé de production de renforts textiles pour pièces composites à géométrie complexe est conçu. Il permet de réaliser des croisements de raidisseurs en « one-shot ». Localement optimisées afin de répondre au cahier des charges mécanique établi, les structures de renfort 3D utilisées sont également continues dans toute la géométrie de la pièce. Une caractérisation multi-échelle des échantillons produits permet de corréler les paramètres du procédé à la morphologie du renfort et donc aux propriétés finales du composite. Associé à ces résultats expérimentaux, un modèle géométrique mésoscopique a été développé, il permet de générer les volumes élémentaires représentatifs des structures de renfort présentes dans le croisement de raidisseurs. Afin d’évaluer et d’optimiser le comportement mécanique homogénéisé de ces structures de renfort, une chaine numérique par éléments finis a été développée. Enfin, une comparaison macroscopique des croisements de raidisseurs permet de quantifier l’apport d’une solution composite hétérogène « sur-mesure » par rapport à une solution métallique isotrope classique. / The European project MAPICC 3D aims the development of a preform manufacturing process for complex shape composite parts. It permits the "one-shot" manufacture of crossing of stiffeners. Locally optimized to meet the mechanical requirements, used 3D reinforcement structures are continuous in the whole part geometry. A multi-scale characterization of produced samples permits to correlate process parameters to reinforcement morphology and by this way to final composite properties. Linked to these experimental results, a mesoscopic geometrical model has been developed; it permits to generate the representative elementary volumes of crossing of stiffeners reinforcement structures. In order to evaluate and optimize the homogeneous mechanical behavior of these reinforcement structures, a mechanical modeling using finite elements has been developed. Finally, a macroscopic crossings of stiffeners comparison permits to quantify the benefits of an heterogeneous fitted composite solution compared to an isotropic metallic one.

After reviewing past work into the geometry of the symmetrical idealised plain knit loop, an account is given of the present knowledge of loop distortion, which represents one of the major problem areas of the knitting industry. The shortcomings of this knowledge are shown to be that, although a large number of processing variables have been demonstrated to be associated with loop distortion, there have been no systematic studies of the defect and there have been virtually no attempts to explain it in terms of fundamental physical characteristics of the yarn. Eleven yarn production and processing variables are examined within the framework of factorially designed experiments. The influence of these independent variables is statistically related both to ranked levels of loop distortion and to values of yarn physical characteristics. The two latter groups of data are also inter-related by rank correlation. It is shown that loop distortion is dependent upon at least three yarn characteristics which, in turn, are dependent upon particular production and processing variables. These three are yarn bending hysteresis, bending rigidity, and count regularity. The greater propensity for wool to distort in comparison to acrylic is explained in relation to these characteristics, and to their different changes during processes such as steam setting and package dyeing. The work is finally reviewed both from the point of view of the manufacturer, who wishes to be able to predict the likelihood that a particular yarn will cause distortion, and the textile technologist who is not only interested in choosing the optimum yarn production conditions for minimum distortion, but would like to improve the fabric appearance by changes or additions to established production routes.

Polyacrylonitrile (PAN) hollow fibres have been spun by a dry-jet wet spinning technique, using a commercial PAN polymer (Courtelle) redissolved in dimethylformamide (DMF). After failure to produce satisfactory porous hollow fibres from PAN/DMF solutions, a series of studies on the porous substructure of PAN cast films prepared with a variety of additives in the casting solution and at varying temperatures of the coagulation bath were carried out. A porous and flexible PAN cast film was produced when it was precipitated in water at 55 °C with CuSO4 present in the casting solution. Hollow fibres produced from a spinning solution composed of 25wt% PAN, 70wt% DMF and 5wt% CuSO4 were more porous and flexible than those produced from 25wt% PAN and 75wt% DMF spinning solution, and appeared to be more suitable for gas separation studies. The permeability of the PAN hollow fibre membranes to single gases was studied. The experimental results showed that the calculated pore radius on the surface of the fibre was in the range of 4- 32 nm. After coating with silicone rubber, the membranes showed very poor gas permeability and selectivity. Since PAN has a low intrinsic gas permeability, the low permeability observed is ascribed to a thick skin layer. The low selectivity of the membranes is related to their high surface porosity (> 10-4), or to the large pores present which are imperfectly blocked. With such fibres, little or no gas will pass through the membranes by solution-diffusion in the PAN. In order to reduce the surface porosity on the skin layer of the hollow fibres, a dualbath coagulation spinning system was used. The gas permeability of H2 in these membranes is lower than that obtained by the single bath coagulation system, while the gas permeability of the other gases, such as CO2 and CH4, were too low to measure. These results indicate that a high selectivity can be obtained by the dual bath coagulation spinning system although the selectivity is accompanied by too low a permeability, which is itself caused by too thick a skin layer. Surface modifications of PAN hollow fibre were carried out in order to modify the surface porosity of the fibres. After the treatments, the hollow fibre membranes did not give significant improvement in gas permeability and selectivity. But, when PAN hollow fibres were treated with cuprammonium hydroxide solution at room temperature, the fibres became coloured and no longer soluble in the usual solvents. The insolubility of the fibres is presumed to be due to a newly-formed crosslinked structure. The crosslinking of the fibres is reversed when the fibres are treated with EDTA solution. It has been observed that the presence of the copper in the fibres increases the tensile strength and decreases the elongation of the hollow fibres. The interaction of the PAN fibre with the cuprammonium hydroxide gave no improvement in gas separation performance but might be the basis for general acrylic fibre modification.

Probability models are developed for the failure of parallel brittle fibres embedded in a relatively soft plastic matrix. A loss of load-bearing occurs in the region surrounding a fibre break, resulting in a concentration of stress in neighbouring fibres. These stress concentrations cannot be measured directly, but by assuming them to be a chosen function of unknown parameters, the failure of the composite may be modelled. It is then shown how the stress concentration parameters may be estimated using the method of maximum likelihood. The technique is illustrated using experimental data for different materials, and in particular, it is shown how the stress concentration parameters vary with fibre spacing. The appearance of breaks along a fibre is, in nature, a point process. Load-sharing between two fibre processes will lead to a degree of nearly coincidental breaks. The degree to which 'coincidences' or 'matchings' occur in two independent point processes is examined. An unusually high degree of matching can be defined, and used to infer that processes are not independent. The exact analysis for a fibre-break process is intractable, but several approximate alternatives are studied, and compared with real and simulated data. The probability models for composite failure rely on assumptions about the underlying strength of the fibres. Principally, the 'weakest-link' property is assumed, frequently characterised by use of the Weibull distribution. A non-parametric test of this property is devised, and specially designed experiments show that weakest-link is apparently open to considerable doubt. It is shown that the existence of different causes of failure, all of which may not be present all of the time, give rise to some new types of failure model. It is demonstrated that these do not have the weakest-link property, even when based on the Weibull distribution, and that they are consistent with some experimental results.

Longtemps sous-estimées, les complications (douleurs, infections) en chirurgie viscérale par pose d’implants pariétaux s’avère critique par leur implication sur le retour à une activité normale du patient. Les techniques actuelles (ex. infiltration cicatricielle) ne parviennent à assurer qu’une analgésie de courte durée, voir des effets indésirables. La solution proposée a consisté à modifier deux implants pariétaux, l’un biostable (PET) et l’autre résorbable (PLA), par un polymère de cyclodextrine (polyCD), molécule cage connue pour sa capacité à former des complexes d'inclusions réversibles avec des médicaments. L'étude a d'abord porté sur la fonctionnalisation des supports en faisant varier les paramètres afin de maîtriser le degré de polyCD présent sur le textile, ensuite caractérisé par diverses techniques. Une étude de cytocompatibilité in vitro a été réalisée afin de détecter l'impact du polyCD sur la vitalité cellulaire. Les supports ont été imprégnés de ciprofloxacine. Après avoir mesuré leur capacité de chargement, des études de libération in vitro ont été menées, suivies de tests microbiologiques sur E. coli et S. aureus. Ces derniers ont montré la contribution du polyCD à augmenter la durée de l'activité antibactérienne. Puis deux molécules anesthésiques (lidocaïne et ropivacaine) ont été étudiées. D'abord, leur inclusion dans la cavité de la CD a été observée en solution par RMN et électrophorèse capillaire. Leurs isothermes d'adsorption ont été réalisées pour évaluer leur taux de chargement respectif sur le textile modifié. Ce taux s’est avéré correspondre aux doses thérapeutiques couramment appliquées localement dans les thérapies existantes. / For a long time underestimated, complications (pain, infection) in visceral surgery with implants, are critical in their impact on the return to normal activity of the patient. Current techniques (scar infiltration, ...) fail to ensure a short analgesia with sometimes side effects. The proposed solution is to confer bioactivity to the prosthesis. To this end, two textiles, a biostable (PET) and an absorbable (PLA), were modified by coating fibers with a cyclodextrin polymer (polyCD). Cyclodextrins are cage molecules known for their ability to form reversible inclusion complexes with bioactive molecules. The study initially focused on the functionalization of materials by varying the parameters to control the degree of polyCD, then characterized by various techniques. Cytocompatibility study was performed to detect the polyCDs impact on the vitality of cells. Concerning the biological activation of the materials, a series of tests was performed with ciprofloxacin. After measuring their loading capacity, release studies were conducted in vitro, followed by microbiological tests on E. coli and S. aureus. The latter showed the contribution of polyCD on the duration of the antibacterial activity. Then two local anesthetics (lidocaine and ropivacaine) were studied. First, their inclusion in the cyclodextrin was observed in solution by NMR and capillary electrophoresis. Their sorption isotherms were conducted to evaluate their respective loading rate, which corresponded to therapeutic doses commonly used in usual therapeutics.

The low abrasion resistance of wool fabrics compared with many man-made fibre fabrics is known to be a frequent cause of consumer dissatisfaction particularly in pure wool suiting fabrics. Accordingly this project was undertaken to attempt to improve the abrasion resistance in order to maintain the quality image associated with wool fabrics and improve their market competitiveness vis-ä-vis other fabrics. Although several workers have discussed the effects of particular finishes on specific fabrics, very little systematic investigation of the effects of chemical treatments on the abrasion resistance of wool fabrics has been carried out. In the current study the difference in abrasion rates of woven wool fabrics composed of different structures have been studied in relation to the abrasion resistance and other relevant physical properties. The work carried out in this thesis is divided into two parts. A review of the literature is followed by a description of the experimental work carried out. The review of the literature summarises current views on the general mechanisms and factors involved in abrasion processes for textile fabrics and the effects of selective finishing treatments on the abrasion resistance of wool fabrics. In addition details of the abrasion testing conditions used in this work for determining fabric abrasion resistance have been described. The' experimental work is concerned with the changes in wool fabric abrasion resistance produced by the following treatments: (i) Application of polymer shrink-resist finishes by padding and by exhaustion treatments, (ii) Treatment with organic solvents, (iii) Treatment with ethylene glycol at-1500C, (iv) Deamination and esterification, (v) High temperature steaming (130°C), (vi) Dyeing, (vii), Wet abrasion. Because of the great commercial importance of polymer shrink resist finishes for wool fabrics, the main objects of the experimental work were to establish the effects of a range of polymer shrink-resist finishes applied by conventional padding and exhaustion techniques on the abrasion resistance of wool fabrics and the mechanisms by which the abrasion resistance is improved.