The purpose of this research was to investigate how the birth of the first child impacts on the marital system. The following three objectives were evaluated: (1) to determine whether the child's entry into the family precipitated a family crisis, (2) to identify the change process that occurred during the transition, and (3) to test hypotheses regarding specific changes in role behaviors and marital satisfaction during this period. / Ten middle class, La Maze trained couples participated in the study. Data were collected in two forms. Data regarding marital behaviors and marital satisfaction were gathered through questionnaires which were completed weekly for a period of 15 weeks, starting six weeks before the expected delivery date, and continuing for approximately 8 weeks postpartum. The couples were also interviewed during the second month postpartum. These interviews provided qualitative information which supplemented the questionnaire data and served as a validation check. The findings were analyzed as a group with the aid of t-tests, and as 10 single system experiments through visual inspection. / The findings from the study revealed that the couples experienced several noteworthy changes when their first child joined the family. The most dramatic changes occurred in household activities, as the new parents took on the added responsibility of child care, and established a more traditional division of labor after the birth. Other changes during this period involved the couples' sexual and social activities. Contrary to the hypotheses, there were no changes in marital satisfaction or expressive activities (e.g., affection, companionship) for most of the couples. However, two couples reported experiencing a decrease in expressiveness after birth. One other couple experienced a marked decrease in both marital satisfaction and expressiveness. This one couple was judged to have experienced a crisis during this period. For the other nine couples, new parenthood seemed to be a stressful experience, but one characterized by much excitement and gratification. / Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 42-06, Section: B, page: 2324. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--The Florida State University, 1981.

The first part of this thesis considers the origins and bases of theories of costume found in theoretical literature on art dating from the Renaissance to the eighteenth century. Taking a didactic view of art, Continental and English theorists borrowed rules of classical rhetoric, including the concept of decorum, to explain the expressive concerns of painting. The theorists believed that decorum, what is most fit and appropriate to an occasion or subject, was expressed through dress. Apparently there was wide acceptance of the belief that costume was an important tool for expression in works of art. Over a period of time, owing to differences in location, political or religious practices, and aesthetics, ideas of what constituted appropriate dress varied. Eventually artists chose dress according to styles appropriate to the hierarchy of painting--historical works, portraiture or genre. / The second part deals with Hogarth's statements on dress in his Analysis of Beauty, and analyzes costumes in selections from his satiric-didactic works, portraits, and history paintings. Although Hogarth's Analysis does not have a strict rhetorical structure, apparently it was rhetorically conceived. Hogarth considered his works of art to be didactic compositions, he viewed dress as means to achieve decorum, and he accepted the rhetorically based hierarchy of styles for painting. In addition, the psychology underlying rhetorical theory was similar to assumptions which formed the basis for Hogarth's aesthetic principles. In eighteenth-century England, artists frequently drew on the expressive arts for didactic ends. Dramatists, writers and painters adopted clothing symbolism to comment on manners and morals of the period. / In his Analysis Hogarth used dress empirically to illustrate his six formally conceived principles of beauty--fitness (decorum), uniformity, variety, simplicity, intricacy, and quantity, which also suggested humour. Many of Hogarth's dress related ideas are similar to the aesthetic concepts of earlier art theorists, such as Alberti, Du Fresnoy, Felibien, De Piles, and Richardson, as well as philosophers, such as Locke, Hume, Addison, and Steele. / From the examination of Hogarth's works of art it is apparent that many of them reveal his dress-related principles of beauty. His satiric-didactic compositions, or what he called modern moral subjects, reflect his principle of fitness more than his portraits or history paintings. His unusual use of contemporary eighteenth-century dress not only aided the moral narrative, but it was appropriate to his subject matter. Dress served as an expressive medium to establish character and communicate eighteenth-century English ideas associated with it. Although Hogarth's small "conversation groups" and many portraits suggest generally worn eighteenth-century dress, a large number of Hogarth's portraits and history paintings reflect styles of dress, such as fancy dress or drapery, popular with eighteenth-century artists. Thus costume may have been appropriate according to the subject matter hierarchy, or custom. / Costume in Hogarth's works of art also expresses his principles of uniformity, variety, simplicity, intricacy, and quantity. According to his theory, these principles can suggest beauty, grace or humour in a painting. In general, dress in Hogarth's works of art serves as a rhetorically, persuasive, didactic tool. The costumes are a language which express ideas associated with particular styles of dress. As a plastic medium costumes were shaped by Hogarth to create forms which expressed his formal theory of beauty and humour. / Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 41-05, Section: B, page: 1730. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--The Florida State University, 1980.

Food and nutrient intake practices and anthropometric data for 288 Cherokee High School students in grades eight through ten at Cherokee High School in Cherokee, North Carolina, were studied. / Anthropometric measurements included height, weight and triceps fatfold thickness. The data was compared to three population samples: urban Native Americans from Minneapolis, the United States Health Examination Survey (HANES) reference standards. The Cherokee, both males and females, tend to be similar in height to these three population samples; however, they are markedly heavier than their non-Indian peers and somewhat heavier than the Minneapolis Indians. The Cherokee difference in triceps fatfold is twofold. They have much greater fatfold values than their White, Black and Minneapolis peers. The greater fatfold thicknesses are compatible with the greater mean weights observed with the Cherokee. / Although the prevalence of obesity was high, an even greater percentage of the Cherokee adolescents indicated that they considered themselves "overweight". The method of choice for losing weight was a combination of diet and exercise; exercise alone was chosen more frequently than diet alone. Only a small percentage of the adolescents were able to correctly define "Calorie". A greater percentage of tenth grade students could correctly define the term than eighth or ninth grade students. / The food preference data indicated that pizza, french fries, fresh strawberries, fresh oranges, hamburgers, fry bread and carbonated beverages were chosen "everytime" or "most of the time" by 70 percent or more of the respondents. The least preferred foods were cooked carrots, liver, cottage cheese, broccoli and yogurt. Males and females differed significantly in their preferences for a substantial portion of the foods than the females. The "lean" and "fat" students differed significantly in their preferences for 10 percent of the foods listed. These foods were preferred more by the "lean" than the "fat" subjects. Few significant differences were observed for the eighth, ninth and tenth graders. / The consumption patterns of traditional foods indicated that there was high nonrecognition of traditional wild plants among the students and relatively little consumption of indigenous animals. / Nutrient and energy intake of the students was evaluated by using the 24-hour dietary recall and the food frequency method. The percentage of students having nutrient intakes below two-thirds of the Recommended Dietary Allowances as well as the mean intakes for both methods indicated that the most neglected nutrients for females were calcium and iron and vitamin A and iron for the males. Based on the 24-hour recall, the mean caloric intakes were not significantly different among the "lean" and "fat" subjects however the food frequency data indicated that the "fat" subjects consumed significantly more calories than the "lean" subjects. / Meal patterns indicated that breakfast was the most frequently missed meal, with females omitting this meal more than males. More eighth graders missed breakfast than ninth or tenth grade students. The majority of all of the students reported eating the noon and evening meal regularly. / Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 41-05, Section: B, page: 1731. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--The Florida State University, 1980.

The purpose of the study was to examine the responses of children demonstrating the Type A and Type B behavior patterns to ambiguous and specific directions in an art activity. Preliminary studies in the field indicated that Type A behaviors may be elicited by exposure to ambiguous performance standards. / The sample was drawn from fifth-grade students in the public school system of Grady County, Georgia. The 214 fifth-grade students were rated as Type A or Type B by their mathematics teachers. Ten children, five As and five Bs, were selected from each of eight mathematics classes. The final sample consisted of 80 children: 40 As and 40 Bs. / There were four independent measures for each child. One was the Type A/B score (MYTH; Matthews & Angulo, 1980). The second was a peer popularity rating, derived from a sociometric technique. In addition, each child in the sample responded to Plomin's Emotionality, Activity, Sociability, Impulsivity Survey (EASI; Plomin, 1974) and Kagan's Matching Familiar Figures Test (MFFT; Kagan et al., 1964). / The dependent measure was an observation schedule that was constructed following a pilot of the activity. Observed behaviors were categorized, with five categories of the Type A behavior pattern identified: time urgency, achievement orientation, aggressive-hostility, tension, and perfectionism. Scores were totals of the number of occurrences of behaviors in each of the five characters. Scores on the five categories were summed for a total score. / The children were observed in two separate situations. In one situation, the children made a paper airplane after ambiguous directions were given. In the second, the children were required to make a paper airplane according to specific directions. / The responses of the Type A and Type B children to both specific and ambiguous directions were observed. There was no difference in the responses of the Type A children to the two sets of directions; however, the Type B exhibited significantly more Type A behaviors in the ambiguous directions condition than in the specific directions condition. / Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 42-07, Section: B, page: 2796. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--The Florida State University, 1981.

Analysis of historic textiles reveals a basic desire for fabric decoration using metallic yarns. However, while the appeal of metallic adornment has been historically consistent, metallic yarns have changed greatly in composition and fabrication. This study investigated changes in the production of textile-related metallic wires, powders and yarns dating from 1500 to 1900. / Prior to 1500, fabrication of textile-related metals remained essentially unchanged. Artisans relied solely on manual skills or hand-operated machinery. However, the introduction of the drawplate in 1565 which enabled gold and silver wires to be mechanically produced, marks the beginning of a transformation in this craft. Throughout this period, craftsmen were concerned with producing a viable alternative for pure gold wires and yarns. As a result, changes occurred in machinery, production techniques and composition of the metals. / A variety of analytical methods which have been successfully applied to archaeological studies were reviewed. Based on the relative merits and limitations of each technique, a series of qualitative and quantitative tests were suggested for use in examining textile-related metals. / Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 41-03, Section: B, page: 0908. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--The Florida State University, 1980.

The purposes of this study were (1) to determine selected shopping practices and (2) to determine clothing behavior related to purchases. The sample of 260 boys was chosen from volunteers in two Georgia high schools. A pretested questionnaire was administered by the investigator to younger boys, ages 13-14, and older boys, ages 17-18. / Factor analysis and cross-validation indicated validity and a split-half procedure indicated reliability. Data were analyzed by stepwise discriminant analysis. / Hypotheses proposed no significant differences between younger and older adolescent males in: (1) the sources of information affecting clothing purchased, (2) "where" shopping was done, (3) how teenagers compared their wardrobes with those of their peers, (4) self-concept when ratings of self and importance of clothing to self are considered simultaneously, and (5) why clothing items are purchased. / Friends were the most important source of new ideas about clothing, although younger boys were more influenced by neighbors and ads. Younger and older boys were similar regarding where clothing shopping was done and in how they compared their wardrobes with those of their peers. Younger boys were more interested in external aspects of self-concept such as physique and appearance, whereas older boys were more interested in internal aspects such as health. All boys valued comfortable clothing, though younger boys were interested in clothing that looked good at the end of the day. Although the differences between younger and older boys were stable, little of the variance was accounted for by knowing the age of the boys. / Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 41-03, Section: B, page: 0908. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--The Florida State University, 1980.

Research was undertaken to determine consumers' knowledge of available tufted manufactured carpets in today's market. Analyses were performed to determine relationships of education, age, source of income, frequency of purchasing carpet, and occupation with the respondents' knowledge of carpet. / Data were collected in a survey of middle to upper class neighborhoods in Athens, Georgia. A sample of 200 subjects was drawn. / A closed response personal interview questionnaire was used to investigate the problem. The questionnaire was devised to determine the respondents' knowledge of factors that affect: (a) wearing qualities, (b) comfort functions, and (c) appearance and retention qualities which may be considered prior to purchasing carpet. Also, the questionnaire was designed to elicit demographic information. / Duncan's test illustrated that there was no significant difference between consumers' knowledge of factors that affect wearing qualities and appearance and retention qualities. There was a significant difference, however, between consumers' knowledge of factors that affect: (a) wearing qualities and comfort functions, and (b) appearance and retention qualities and comfort functions. / Multiple Regression Analysis results indicated no significant relationship exists between consumers' knowledge of carpets and education, age, source of income, occupation, and frequency of purchasing carpet. / Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 41-02, Section: B, page: 0533. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--The Florida State University, 1980.

Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 41-09, Section: B, page: 3404. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--The Florida State University, 1980.

Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 41-09, Section: B, page: 3404. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--The Florida State University, 1980.

This study documented the characteristics of the dress of the Julio-Claudian emperors, comparing literary and sculptural works contemporary and subsequent to the period. Sculpture of the Augustan period reflected a combination of Etruscan and Greek qualities, and were often loose copies of earlier Greek works that idealized the figure. Later Julio-Claudian sculpture was more realistic in figures but continued some artistic license or misunderstanding of garment characteristics. / Major garments worn by the emperors included the tunic and toga, the cuirass, and the paludamentum. Accessories included a finger ring and a fibula; a laurel wreath worn during religious or ceremonial events; a leg covering; and a type of sandal or the cothurni. / Roman emperors were most often described in one of four roles: mythological character, military general, state official, or triumphant general. Julio-Claudian emperors were shown in both literature and sculpture as military general and state official with both media consistent in depiction of dress, suggesting sculpture as a reliable indicator of their dress. Both sources show the military general as wearing the cuirass with the pteryges and lappets, a paludamentum and cothurni, or boots, and the state official as appearing in a tunic and a toga. However, there is much more sculptural than literary portrayal of Julio-Claudian emperors as mythological character, suggesting that emperors were symbolically honored as gods in statues rather than often actually dressing in that role. Sculptors showed that role wearing a white or colored paludamentum draped around the lower half of the body. Literature describes the emperor as triumphant general as wearing a white or colored tunic and toga, each ornamented with elaborate embroidery, but there are no extant full-length sculptures of Julio-Claudian emperiors in that role to make sculpture a reliable source. Thus the reliability of sculpture as a source to study Julio-Claudian imperial dress depends on the role being depicted. / Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 44-07, Section: B, page: 2126. / Thesis (Ph.D.)--The Florida State University, 1983.