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Unlike other fibres, wool felts readily when agitated in the presence of water. For this reason, only the minimum necessary quantity of water is used when the garments are drycleaned. However, wool fibres are often deliberately felted to obtain a warm bulky handle by controlled addition of water to the solvent. This process is known as solvent milling and recently, it has become a popular alternative to the traditional milling in water alone. Although the factors which influence milling in solvent are known, the relationships between them are not well defined. A comprehensive study of the relationship between water distribution and milling shrinkage during agitation of wool in perchloroethylene has been carried out in this thesis. The Karl Fischer method of determination was used throughout to establish the distribution of water between the wool fibre and the solvent liquor. The emphasis was placed on practical production variables. The role of surfactant in affecting milling shrinkage through its effect on the transport of water to the fibre from the solvent was examined. The ability of a suitable surfactant in promoting even and rapid sorption of water by the fibre was related to the colloidal properties of the milling liquor.

By using oral history as the primary research method, the aim of this thesis is to document and analyse the experiences of women woollen textile workers in the mid-twentieth century. The thesis contains a critique of oral history as a research method in general and the feminist practice of oral history in particular. In order to locate the women in the study in a particular place, there is description of the development and eventual collapse of the woollen textile industry in the Huddersfield area of West Yorkshire. Tape recorded interviews were carried out with 17 women. The key findings from their experiences fall into two main areas. The first relates to the experiences the women describe about the daily routine within the woollen mill, especially for new recruits and the tasks they had which were unconnected with their job. The second relates to the descriptions of the actions the women took during the collapse of the industry. This thesis contributes to the wider body of work on working class women and offers original insights into the experiences of women who worked in an industry which has all but disappeared.