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Na trama das apar?ncias : moda e arte na obra de Antoine Watteau (1684 ? 1721)

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Previous issue date: 2015-08-31 / Conselho Nacional de Pesquisa e Desenvolvimento Cient?fico e Tecnol?gico - CNPq / Coordena??o de Aperfei?oamento de Pessoal de N?vel Superior - CAPES / The present work deals with the relationship between the artistic production of French painter Jean Antoine Watteau (1684 ? 1721) and the universe of fashion. Fashion is here presented as a new perpsective to analyze Watteau?s works. The proposed study has a multidisciplinary character, which helps to adress the production of a very complex artist, whose work shows several connections and analogies to other kinds of artistic productions. During her reaearch period in Paris, the author had access to new sources and bibliography, which helped to better understand the way Watteau?s work relates not only to French fashion in the XVIIIth century, but with fashion history as a whole. The work?s mains source is a set of etchings done by different artists, called Figures de Diff?rents Caract?res; those images were based on a series of drawings originally done by Watteau. The Figures make up the two first volumes of the Recueil Julienne, a compendium of the artist?s work. Besides the etching, some oil paintings were also studied. Relationships between images produced in the XVIIIth century and images from other temporalities were taken into consideration. The researcher sook to understand the ways clothe and/or fashion impact on the constitution of the artist?s visuality; besides, the work has analysed the construction of memories pertaining clothes and clothings as shown in Watteau?s etchings and paintings; therefore, through the selected images, the researcher has explored the territory occupied by clothes and fashion in te artist?s work. Another element taken into account was the role performed by clothes in the construction of movement and gesture within the selected images. The researcher has investigated which connections can be estabilished between the selected images and the period?s social forms and dress codes. Fashion is a phenomenon characterized by speedy changes and capable of great impact on individuals. Most scholars who adressed that question have pointed the XVIIIth century as the turning point when fashion started to show those characteristics. Watteau?s artistic path has been re-traced here through some biographic data, and his insertion in French culture and society of the XVIIIth century has been investigated; the ?survival? of his works in diferent times has also been pondered. The works deals extensively with Watteau?s relationship with theatre and with a genre of painting known as f?tes galantes. The relationship between the selected etchings and French fashion plates has also been examined. / A presente pesquisa trata sobre a rela??o existente entre a obra do pintor franc?s Jean Antoine Watteau (1684 ? 1721) e o universo da moda, analisando-se a obra do artista pelo vi?s da moda como tentativa de propor uma nova abordagem. O estudo aqui proposto possui um car?ter multidisciplinar, que auxilia a refletir sobre a produ??o de um pintor complexo, cuja obra estabelece v?rias rela??es com outras express?es art?sticas. Realizou-se um per?odo de estudos em Paris, que ampliou fontes e bibliografia, definindo melhor de que maneira a obra de Watteau se relaciona com a moda n?o apenas da Fran?a de seu tempo, mas com a hist?ria da moda como um todo. A fonte principal da pesquisa ? um conjunto de gravuras em ?gua-forte feitas por diferentes artistas a partir de desenhos de Watteau, que receberam o nome de Figures de Diff?rents Caract?res. Ele comp?e os dois primeiros tomos do chamado Recueil Julienne, um comp?ndio com a obra completa do artista. Utilizou-se tamb?m algumas pinturas ? ?leo. Levou-se em considera??o algumas rela??es entre as imagens produzidas no s?culo XVIII com imagens de outras temporalidades. Buscou-se refletir sobre a maneira com que o traje e/ou a moda participaram na constitui??o da visualidade do artista, al?m de analisar a constru??o da mem?ria em torno dos trajes presentes nas obras de Watteau, percorrendo, atrav?s das imagens selecionadas, o territ?rio que os trajes e a moda ocuparam na obra do artista. Verificou-se o papel desempenhado pela roupa na constru??o da gestualidade e do movimento das figuras analisadas. Investigou-se quais rela??es as imagens selecionadas estabelecem com as sociabilidades e as formas de vestir da ?poca em que foram produzidas. A moda ? um fen?meno caracterizado por mudan?as r?pidas, exercendo grande impacto sobre os indiv?duos. A maioria daqueles que se dedicaram a responder essa quest?o apontam o s?culo XVIII como o momento de virada em que a moda passou a apresentar essas caracter?sticas. Tra?ou-se a trajet?ria art?stica de Watteau atrav?s de alguns dados biogr?ficos, bem como a sua inser??o no s?culo XVIII franc?s e algumas quest?es ? respeito das ?sobreviv?ncias? de sua obra em diferentes tempos. Destacou-se a rela??o do artista com o teatro e suas obras classificadas como f?tes galantes. Observou-se tamb?m a rela??o entre as gravuras da fonte principal e a tradi??o das gravuras de moda francesas.

Identiferoai:union.ndltd.org:IBICT/oai:tede2.pucrs.br:tede/6324
Date31 August 2015
CreatorsLima, Laura Ferrazza de
ContributorsKern, Maria L?cia Bastos
PublisherPontif?cia Universidade Cat?lica do Rio Grande do Sul, Programa de P?s-Gradua??o em Hist?ria, PUCRS, Brasil, Faculdade de Filosofia e Ci?ncias Humanas
Source SetsIBICT Brazilian ETDs
LanguagePortuguese
Detected LanguageEnglish
Typeinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion, info:eu-repo/semantics/doctoralThesis
Formatapplication/pdf
Sourcereponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações da PUC_RS, instname:Pontifícia Universidade Católica do Rio Grande do Sul, instacron:PUC_RS
Rightsinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
Relation1740700517806534787, 600, 600, 600, 600, 600, -4398000523014524731, -3840921936332040591, -2555911436985713659, 2075167498588264571

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