[pt] O alimento se encontra intimamente ligado aos sentimentos. Sentimentos de alegria, de celebração, sentimentos religiosos; sentimentos de superioridade ou inferioridade, quando é usado para marcar distinções na hierarquia social. A necessidade de alimentar-se sendo uma exigência vital pouco flexível quanto à freqüência e quantidade mínimas, se presta aos mais diversos atos de exercício do poder. O controle da comida sempre foi um meio de controlar a vida, e assim a subordinação e a conduta de outros seres humanos. As condições do Rio de Janeiro durante a República Velha permitem estudar como as elites urbanas emergentes, empenhadas em modernizar a cidade para, a através do seu novo aspecto, melhorar o prestígio do país no exterior desfazendo-se da imagem de nação antiquada, adotaram modelos franceses e ingleses de conduta e que papel coube à comida e à forma de comer nesse esforço proposto como civilizador. Esta tese examina os costumes alimentares do ponto de vista da prática gastronômica, estabelecendo a história dos principais elementos da cozinha refinada, em particular do restaurante e do termo gastronomia, para, a seguir, analisar o destino que esta importação francesa teve no Rio de Janeiro da República Velha. / [en] Food is intimately related to feelings. Feelings of joy, of celebration, religious feelings; feelings of superiority or inferiority, when used to express distinctions in the social hierarchy. The need to be fed being a vital requirement with almost no flexibility with respect to the minimum frequency and quantity of intake, lends itself to be used in a variety of acts that demonstrate power. The control of food supply has always been a means to control the way other persons live, and in that way obtain the subordination and control of the conduct of human beings. The conditions prevailing in Rio de Janeiro during the period of the Republica Velha (Old Republic) allow the study of the ways of the emerging urban elites, that bent on modernizing the city, hoped to use its renewed looks to help discard the image of an outdated country in which Brazil was held abroad. And in that study detect the role played by food and eating manners in that supposedly civilizing undertaking. This thesis examines the eating customs from a gastronomic point of view, establishing the history of the main elements of a refined cookery, especially that of the restaurant and of the word gastronomy itself. Following those finding the thesis turns to the analysis of the fate of that French import in Rio de Janeiro of the Republica Velha. / [fr] Laliment est intimement lié aux sentiments. Sentiments de joie, de célébration, sentiments religieux; sentiments de superiorité ou dinfériorité quand il est employé pour marquer des distinctions dans la hiérarchie sociale. Le besoin de se nourrir est une exigence vitale peu flexible quant à la fréquence et à la quantité minimales, et ainsi se prête aux plus divers actes de lexercice du pouvoir. Le controle de la nourriture a toujours été un moyen de controler la vie, et de là la subordination et le comportement des autres êtres humains. Les conditions de Rio de Janeiro pendant la República Velha (Vieille République) permettent détudier comment les élites urbaines émergentes, dediées à moderniser la ville pour permettre par son nouvel aspect daméliorer le prestige du pays à lexterieur en abandonant limage dune nation dépassée, ont adopté des modèles français et anglais de comportement, et quel rôle la nourriture et la façon de manger ont joué dans cet effort dit civilisateur. Cette thèse examine les habitudes alimentaires du point de vue de la pratique gastronomique, tout en établissant lhistoire des principaux éléments de la cuisine raffinée, particulièrement du restaurant et du terme gastronomie, pour ensuite analyser le destin de cette importation française au Rio de Janeiro de la Vieille République.

This thesis questions a series of assumptions concerning the nineteenth- and early-twentieth-century modernization of European spaces. Current scholarship tends to concur with essayistic texts and images by contemporary intellectuals that technological and organizational developments increased the freedom of movement of those living in western-European societies, while at the same time alienating them from each other and from their environment. I assess this claim with the help of Dutch travel egodocuments such as travel diaries and letters. After a prosopographical investigation of all available northern-Netherlandish travel egodocuments created between 1500 and 1915, a selection of these documents is examined in greater detail. In these documents, travellers regarded the possession of identity documents, a correct appearance, and a fitting social identity along with their personal contacts, physical capabilities, and the weather as the most important factors influencing whether they managed to gain access to places. A discussion of these factors demonstrates that no linear increase, nor a decrease, occurred in the spatial power felt by travellers. The exclusion many travellers continued to experience was often overdetermined. The largest groups affected by this were women and less educated families. Yet travellers could also play out different access factors against each other. By paying attention to how practices matched hopes and expectations, it is possible to discover how gravely social inequities were really felt by travellers. Perhaps surprisingly, all social groups desired to visit the same types of places. Their main difference concerned the atmosphere of the places where the different groups felt at home. To a large degree this matched travellers' unequal opportunities. Therefore, although opportunities remained strongly unequal throughout the period, this was not always experienced as a problem. Also, in cases where it was, many travellers knew strategies to work around the obstacles created for them.