In the post World War II era, a group of east Asian exporters achieved rapid economic growth through the exports of labor-intensive manufactures, among which textiles and apparel were the most prominent. Previous research has sought to explain the determinants of international textile and apparel trade through the theory of comparative advantage. The aim of this research was to examine the textile and apparel export patterns and government intervention of South Korea and India, 1955-1985, through comparative historical analysis. The sectoral study proceeded under the premise that a prime determinant of export success is the nature of government intervention. The conceptual framework of the study was based on Liang's (1992) classification of trade regimes. The focus of the study was on the overall policy atmosphere in the two countries examined, which affected the development of the textile/apparel sectors and their trade patterns. The procedure utilized followed the general framework of comparative analysis. The variables chosen were identified by the theory as relevant to policy analysis and were examined to determine whether they provided evidence to support the hypotheses. To judge the overall policy atmosphere of South Korea and India, the effects of various government incentives were analyzed. The study contained descriptions of policy measures and explanations of the reasoning governing their implementation. An evaluation of the effects of each policy, as well as the overall effect of the combined policies, was provided. For both countries, qualitative and quantitative variables associated with import protection and export promotion were analyzed. The cross-country comparison revealed that both South Korea and India displayed high levels of government intervention in industry and trade as related to their textile/apparel sectors. The method of comparative analysis permitted an in-depth view of various individual policies affecting the textile/apparel sectors of both countries. An important finding was that the government intervention in South Korea fostered the growth of its textile/apparel exports, whereas Indian government intervention hampered the growth of Indian textile and apparel exports. The analysis also showed that the South Korean policy package resulted in the textile/apparel industry emerging as the country's largest exporting sector in the late 1960s, a position it retained until the early 1980s. Meanwhile, the Indian policy package nearly stagnated textile/apparel exports from the 1950s onwards, and the country's share of the world market was taken over by South Korea, China, and Taiwan, among others. / Master of Science

The US textile industry has traditionally been import-impacted rather than export-oriented. Recent data reveal a significant growth in US textile and apparel exports, indicating that US manufacturers are aware of the importance of expanding internationally. Europe represents the second most important export destination for American textiles. The purpose of this research was to examine the export involvement and marketing characteristics of eight US interior furnishing textile (IFT) manufacturers who market to the EC, and to determine their perceptions of how the creation of the EC 1992 Single Market would affect their future marketing strategies and market potential. The case study method, i.e., personal interviews, was used to investigate the expectations of IFT exporters regarding the EC 1992 market potential, and investigated whether they plan to adapt their export marketing strategies to the changing regulatory and business environment in the EC 1992 Single Market. The informants were drawn from the US IFT companies participating at the Heimtextil 1993 trade show in Frankfurt, Germany. Multiple sources of evidence were used for compilation of final case study reports. Cross-case comparisons revealed that IFT manufacturers exported up to 20 percent of their total sales in 1992, and half of the respondents considered the EC as their primary export market. The firms were direct exporters, catered to wholesalers and distributors, and utilized a focus market niche strategy. Styling and price competitiveness were most commonly mentioned as firms’ competitive advantages. The EC market was viewed merely as an extension of the domestic market. An EC-wide pricing strategy was utilized, and the profit structure in the EC tended to be higher than in the US. Marketing functions in the EC were performed by agents/distributors. Trade shows and product samples were commonly utilized as promotional tools. The executives of the companies under investigation were sensitive to the changing EC external environment and optimistic about the future market potential in the EC 1992 Single market. Major adjustments of their marketing strategies in the new Europe were related to entry modes, distribution and products. / Master of Science

China has now become the largest producer and exporter of textile and clothing products in the world. The objective of this research is to explore the relationship between the complicated interactive process of institutional change and the development of industrial clusters in China. It focuses on the distinctive institutional factors that have allowed the textile and clothing clusters in China to benefit from globalisation while those in other transitional economies have not done so. The research also aims to make a thorough investigation into how the dynamic change of the public-private interface has influenced the development and upgrading of the textile and clothing clusters in contemporary China-in-transition, with all the political and social implications that the process entails. The research mainly uses the New Institutional Economics Approach (NIE) and gives weight to institutional change through multiple case studies of textile and clothing clusters in Zhejiang province, East China. The micro case studies are effective in illustrating the interaction between institutional change and industrial development. The research argues that the unique institutional factors leading to the rapid development of textile and clothing clusters in China include hybrid ownership, public entrepreneurship and the specialised wholesale market. The research has also shown that the theory of local state corporatism alone fails to explain the great success of textile and clothing clusters in China. The development and upgrading of textile and clothing clusters in China has witnessed extraordinary institutional change through co-evolution between the public sector and the private sector, which can be reflected through the interaction among social networks, entrepreneurship and performance of local government. The flexibility in the public-private interface is one unique endogenous institutional arrangement embedded in the economic system in China. It is a dynamic process of institutional embeddedness, deembeddedness and reembeddedness with a diversity of economic regimes coexisting at different hierarchies of government

published_or_final_version / Business Administration / Master / Master of Business Administration

published_or_final_version / Business Administration / Master / Master of Business Administration

M.A. / The objective of this study is to estimate the productivity of labour in the South African textile industry. This was achieved by firstly looking at the theoretical background which will facilitate the calculation of labour productivity. The Cobb-Douglas production function was found to be most suitable to estimate labour productivity in the South African textile industry. Conditions necessary and sufficient for equilibrium to hold were explored which gave an indication on efficiency in the allocation of input factors , capital and labour. South African textile industry's performance over the years has been influenced by the changing trade policies brought about by the Uruguay round of talks of 15 December 1993. The talks concluded that countries should reduce tariffs and embark on export-led growth. Exporters should have free access to imported intermediate inputs and countries should do away with anti export bias associated with import protection. Inevitably the South African textiles industry was affected by the conclusions drawn at the Uruguay Round of talks. The textile industry which had enjoyed growth under high protection tariffs and other import duties had shed down the high tariffs and liberalise trade. But the tariff reductions had to happen over the period ranging between five and twelve years. This further implied that export incentive schemes will have to be eliminated as they were in contradiction with GATT Agreement so, R2 billion that the government had budgeted for the General Export Incentive Scheme will have to be dispensed with and according to GATT South Africa has been given three years to dispose of the export incentive scheme. ix The long term strategy for the textile industry was formulated as an industrial strategy to prepare the industry for the changing policies. The long term objectives emphasised on achieving international competitiveness, labour demanding growth to foster employment in the textile industry and lastly to supply local consumers with textiles at affordable prices. But it should be noted that trying to gain international competitiveness imply laying off workers as new technology comes in. This is in contradiction with the Industrial strategy which advocates for labour absorbing economic growth in the textile industry especially in the light of the fact that employment has been on the decline over the years and it is expected that the new industrial strategy, will be able to create more jobs.

A research report submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the Master’s Degree in Development Theory and Policy, March 2017 / It has been the objective of the Zimbabwean government since 2009 to arrest deindustrialisation, embody reindustrialisation as the essence for development and structural transformation from production of primary goods to manufacturing of value added goods for the domestic and export market. The President of Zimbabwe traversed that “industrialization is the essence of development, industrial production creates job opportunities at higher skill levels, facilitates more useful links across the agricultural, mining and service sectors, between rural and urban economies, and across consumer, intermediate and capital goods industries” (Ministry of Industry and Commerce, 2012: v). As such one of the economic components, through which re-industrialisation is envisioned is the value-addition of cotton through supporting downstream industries in textiles and clothing. This objective has been seen gradually through all of its policies post crisis or since dollarization. This is illustrated for example in the in the Short Term Emergency Recovery Programme (STERP) of 2009 were textiles and ginning are identified under strategically targeted industries. In the Industrial Development Policy of 2012 -2016, it is also stated that “whilst in Zimbabwe it might appear that the industrial value chain is complete; in sectors such as cotton, iron and steel and sugar, the level of transformation beyond primary processing still needs to be enhanced” [and so] “the Government has identified four (4) priority sectors as the pillars and engine for this IDP 2012–2016, namely Agri-business (Food and beverages, Clothing and Textiles, Leather & Footwear and Wood and Furniture)….”, (Ministry of Industry and Commerce, 2012: 11,17). With this background in mind, the broader problem this research is trying to solve is how the government through its objectives has sort to address de-industrialisation and re-industrialize through support of value addition and upgrading processes. Therefore, my research will focus on the evolution of cotton to textiles value chain and investigate how much value-addition has been employed to cotton products locally and for exports but only up to the point of textiles; what market conditions, forces and industry initiatives/strategies influenced the attempts to increase value added, and how successful or not these have been ; what policies both broader industrial and macroeconomic and sector-specific policies are in place or have been implemented to support the growth of cotton to textiles value added or shifting into higher value added production and what the impact of the cotton to textile industry has been towards industrial development. / XL2018

Esta dissertação é um estudo sobre as transformações pelas quais passou a Rua José Paulino, principal via comercial do bairro paulistano Bom Retiro, entre 1928 e 1980. Em 1928, tratava-se de uma via mista, ocupada simultaneamente por inúmeros usos, como moradia, comércio, serviços e pequenas indústrias que supriam as necessidades das várias comunidades imigrantes residentes no bairro. Em 1980, a José Paulino era uma via reconhecida nacionalmente por possuir um comércio de moda predominantemente feminino e a preços acessíveis, atraindo diversos compradores de outras regiões do Estado de São Paulo e do Brasil. O objetivo da pesquisa foi compreender como se deram as sucessivas mudanças nos usos da rua e quais são os rebatimentos dessas mudanças na materialidade da José Paulino durante o intervalo proposto para o seu estudo. A estruturação de uma nova atividade econômica no local implicou alterações materiais e estéticas, com demolições de imóveis antigos, construções de novos edifícios e a posterior ocupação de suas fachadas pela comunicação visual que os proprietários das confecções passaram a aplicar em seus imóveis. / This dissertation is a study on changes through which José Paulino Street, the main commercial street in the São Paulo neighborhood of Bom Retiro, occurred between 1928 and 1980. In 1928, this street was a mixed-use urban corridor, being simultaneously occupied by innumerable uses, such as housing, commerce, services and small industries that supplied the needs of the various immigrant communities residing in the neighborhood. In 1980, José Paulino was a nationally recognized street with a predominantly feminine and affordable fashion trade, attracting several buyers from other regions of the State of São Paulo and Brazil. The objective of this research was to understand how the successive changes in uses of this street occurred and what is the bending of these changes in the materiality of José Paulino during the time period proposed for his study. The shaping of a new economic activity in the area led to material and aesthetic changes, with demolitions of old buildings, constructions of new buildings and posterior occupation of its façades by visual communication that owners of the confections began to use in their properties.

The internationalization started to be seen as an opportunity for many companies, a strategic way to grow; therefore they assume different levels of commitment in the international market. This dissertation analyzes which internationalization strategies are being used by Brazilian companies in the textile industry and why these companies have chosen these strategies along the time line. The chosen method is a qualitative approach with semi-structured interviews. The companies chosen are Cia. Hering, Dudalina and Karsten; all three have long history in the textile industry and started to export at least more than 30 years ago. Analyzing the companies within the frame of Kraus theory (2000, 2006), it was possible found that the main strategies along the time were: exporting via private label manufacturing, FDI, exporting the own brand and franchising. The internationalization strategies of the companies in the beginning were related to the significant production capacity that boosted their exports, mainly exporting private label. Another remarkable fact was the positive moment of the Brazilian economy that facilitated their exports. Enjoying the positive moment, Cia. Hering and Karsten reached the most committed level of involvement in international operations. With no consolidate brand abroad therefore the Asian competition and not favorable currency exchange rates, they had to return and operate mainly to the domestic market. The companies had no consolidate strategy in the beginning; nevertheless now, all them are concerned in building stronger brands than in past, since they are leaving or at least decreasing the private label exports. The companies have changed focus from production to the market.

The massive job losses and factory closures in the clothing, textiles and leather industries in almost all countries in the region. The low wages that continue in our industries, resulting in a low and, in many instances, declining standard of living of workers. The crisis which face unemployed workers who have no income, no social security net, and no immediate prospect of a job. It is a fundamental responsibility of governments in the region to work with trade unions and employers in order to develop appropriate policies to secure a future for the industries and to improve the conditions of workers.