清朝末期大稻埕是台灣北部的商業中心,馬關條約後為了因應日人與台灣本地的紳商階級對飲食的新要求,大稻埕興起了許多大型的餐館,而江山樓正是其中著名的佼佼者.由於江山樓本身建築物氣派,樓主吳江山雅好風流,交友廣泛,且善用商業策略加以經營,江山樓成為推廣台灣菜的重要餐廳,同時也成為紳商與統治階級社交的重要地點.許多商業及文化組織如瀛社,南友會經常於江山樓舉行例會,許多當時的名人如陳天來,杜聰明也都曾於江山樓宴請朋友.當日本裕仁皇太子訪台時,他的餐飲皆由江山樓負責,可見江山樓之重要,此論文將從不同的角度探討江山樓的重要性及其與當時紳商的關係,藉此提供台灣研究一個新的切入角度. / Dadaocheng was the business center in northern Taiwan in the late Qing Dynasty. After the Shimonoseki Treaty, many large restaurants were built in Dadaocheng to meet the new demands of the Taiwanese gentry as well as Japanese officials and businessmen. Under Japanese rule, businessmen were the main component of the Taiwanese gentry. The new gentry class required a place to socialize with each other as well as with Japanese officials. Large restaurants like the Jiangshanlou were established at their request and profitable information and favors were exchanged. The gentry frequented Jiangshanlou because the restaurant was outstanding in various ways, including the magnificence of its building, its refined cuisine, and the good management of the owner, Wu Jiangshan. Wu invited the gentry to leave their literary works in the restaurant thereby creating a chic-image for Jiangshanlou so that it could attract customers of the upper social class. Many business and cultural associations such as the Yingshe and the Nanyouhui chose this restaurant to hold meetings and banquets; many famous members of the gentry such as Chen Tianlai and Du Congming held welcome parties and weddings in Jiangshanlou, too. In human society, an individual’s culinary habits and means are a good reflection and measurement of their position in that society and this was certainly true of Taiwanese society under Japanese rule. After the 1920s, Jiangshanlou represented the highest level of culinary standards in Taiwan. The popularity and importance of Jiangshanlou can be proved by the fact that when the Japanese Prince Imperial, Hirohito, the future emperor of Japan, visited Taiwan, the restaurant was designated to serve his meals. This thesis will examine the Jiangshanlou from various aspects as well as its relationship with the gentry.

本篇論文重現日治時期大稻埕「江山樓」的昔日風華，透過江山樓的歷史過往、活動展演，逐步解讀江山樓以及江山樓的相關書寫，所代表的文學╱文化意涵。 第二章「江山樓昔日風華」，主要在彙整江山樓的背景資料，重塑江山樓當時的樣貌。透過對江山樓過往歷史與地理位置重建，以及江山樓舉辦的種種活動，瞭解江山樓對當時的指標性意義。並從江山樓歷代經營者的經營瞭解：江山樓在這些人經營下，與上層階級官紳、文人形成密集的交流網絡，而江山樓成為日治時期非常重要的聚會場所，也因其具有著多重吸引力，因此江山樓周邊的活動與娛樂餐飲等事業，皆圍繞著江山樓繁榮發展。 第三章「江山樓的消費空間」，本章主要分兩部分論述，一方面從江山樓空間最重要的消費行為－飲食、藝旦談起；另一方面由江山樓飲食、藝旦，而吸引的消費人口，讓江山樓成為重要的集會地，引領著當時的消費風潮論述。日治時期有句俗諺「登江山樓，吃臺灣菜」可見江山樓的盛名以及飲食吸引人之處，由江山樓的內部裝潢、飲食器具、菜單、還有外燴活動，論述江山樓的吸引人的飲食消費，也是江山樓受到矚目的重要原因。 第四章「江山樓的相關書寫」，江山樓的相關書寫當中，主要分為「日治時期」與「戰後迄今」兩部分論述，從日治時期的古典詩歌，有許多歌頌、描繪江山樓美好的部分，如景色、美人、醇酒，可探知江山樓為「製造歡樂的消費空間」；另一方面，從江山樓的聚會的心情書寫，可以了解江山樓相關書寫中呈現的文學╱文化意涵，尤其日人與臺人，在其人筆下的江山樓，透過文學創作，呈現出不同的面向與文化思考。從戰後迄今關於江山樓的民間傳說、口述資料以及現代文本中，尋找關於江山樓的創作，來探究新／舊文化對於江山樓意涵的書寫與再詮釋，其相同與相異之處，來討論江山樓庶民印象的演變與其代表意義。 第五章「結論」針對江山樓的的種種面貌，來比對出江山樓所代表的空間╱符號意涵；總結前文，指出本文研究的價值，及未來尚可開展之研究方向。 / This thesis re-presents the past glory of “Kang San Lau”in Dadauchen during the Japanese colonial era, interpreting Kang San Lau and its related writing and the literary/cultural meaning it represents through the historical past and development of events of Kang San Lau. The second chapter, “the Past and Present of Kang San Lau,”focuses on collecting background information concerning Kang San Lau, re-creating it at its time. Through re-constructing the past historical and geographical location of Kang San Lau, and a variety of activities held there, the contemporary significance of Kang San Lau can be understood. Furthermore, this chapter analyzes through the management of the past owners of Kang San Lau, its intensive social network with upper-class gentry and literati. Being an important place for gatherings during the Japanese colonization, its appeal is layered and the surrounding activities and entertainment prosper because of it. In the third chapter, “the Consumtion Space of Kang San Lau,” the discourse is two-parted: one deals with dining and Geishas, the most crucial consumption behavior of Kang San Lau, the other examines the consumtion population attracted by the dining and geishas of Kang San Lau, making it an important gather place, ushering the consumption trend at the time. During the Japanese colonization, there was a saying “Attend Kang San Lau and taste Taiwanese dishes,” which reveals through interrior decoration, utensils, menus, and catering events, the fame and popularity of Kan San Lau. The fourth chapter, “the Related Writing of Kang San Lau,”presents a two-sided discourse, one being the colonization, the other postwar till present. From classic poetry praising and describing the wonder of Kang San Lau such as its scenery, beauty, and wine, Kang San Lau as a “joy manufacturing consumption space”is explored. On the other hand, from the emotional writing of the gatherings at Kang San Lau, the literary/cultural meaning presented in the related writing of Kang San Lau is understood, especially among the Japanese and the Taiwanese. Postwar till the present, through folklore, verbal discourse, and modern documentation surrounding Kang San Lau, the similarities and differences between the discourse and interpretation of new/old cultural significance of Kang San Lau is processes. The fifth chapter, “Conclusion,” compares the spatial/signal meanings Kang San Lau represents under its layered façade. In conclusion, the value of this thesis is emphazied and a future direction for research is indicated.