Les problèmes d’hyperpigmentation cutanée sont caractérisés par l’apparition de taches brunes foncées, distribuées irrégulièrement sur la peau, généralement sur les zones photo-exposées. Ce problème largement répandu est la conséquence de plusieurs perturbations cutanées d’une ampleur autant physiologique qu’esthétique. Les rayonnements ultraviolets (UV) jouent un rôle important dans la mélanogenèse mais sont aussi à l’origine de plusieurs dérèglements physiologiques des mélanocytes induisant ainsi leur mal-fonctionnement.L’application d’un écran solaire est un moyen très efficace pour la protection contre les UV et la prévention des problèmes d’hyperpigmentation cutanée. Pour la première fois, nous avons pu mettre en place une nouvelle méthode in vitro pour la détermination du facteur de protection solaire (SPF) d’un écran en utilisant le film Gafchromic® EBT3 comme substrat et en se basant sur le changement de couleur du substrat. La variation de couleur est évaluée par spectroscopie ultraviolet-visible et est rapportée à l’absorbance du film après son exposition à un simulateur de soleil.En plus, nous nous sommes intéressés à la recherche de principes actifs extraits de plantes pour la régulation des problèmes d’hyperpigmentation cutanée. Pour ce, des huiles essentielles (HE) ont été extraites à partir de cinq plantes indigènes ou endémiques au Liban et leur composition analysée par chromatographie en phase gazeuse couplée à la spectrométrie de masse (GC-MS). Leurs effets moléculaires sur les structures cutanées ont été déterminés par analyses in tubo et in vitro. Les analyses enzymatiques in tubo ont permis de détecter une activité anti tyrosinase importante des deux HE d’Origanum syriacum et Origanum ehrenbergii. Cette activité a été liée à la composition phytochimique de chaque HE et a été attribuée au composé majoritaire, le carvacrol. Les études in vitro sur des cultures de mélanocytes ont permis de déterminer une diminution significative de la production de la mélanine en présence des HE et du carvacrol. Nous avons pu établir un lien entre les deux études pour déterminer le mécanisme d’action du carvacrol. Il s’agit d’une inhibition compétitive où le carvacrol se lie à la tyrosinase pour suivre une série d’oxydations enzymatiques bloquant ainsi l’oxydation de la tyrosine et causant un dérèglement de la mélanogenèse.Notre étude est la première à démontrer l’activité anti tyrosinase des HE d’O. syriacum et d’O. ehrenbergii. La complémentarité entre les tests d’efficacité et les analyses GC-MS nous a permis d’attribuer l’activité anti tyrosinase au carvacrol qui agit par inhibition compétitive.Ainsi, l’application de protecteur solaire associée à l’application cutanée de régulateurs de la mélanogenèse pourrait être une solution efficace pour les problèmes d’hyperpigmentation cutanée. / Hyperpigmentation disorders are characterized by an irregular distribution of dark spots on the skin, mainly on photo-exposed skin areas. This widespread problem is the result of several skin disorders leading to many physiological and aesthetic perturbations. Ultraviolet (UV) radiations play an important role in melanogenesis. However, they are also the source of several physiological disorders that induce a malfunctioning of melanocytes.The application of sunscreen is a very effective UV protection method and it is considered a main factor in the prevention of skin hyperpigmentation problems. One of the novelties in our research is that, for the first time, we were able to establish a new in vitro method for the determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) of a sunscreen, using EBT3 Gafchromic® film as a substrate. Our method relied on the color change of the substrate that was evaluated by UV-visible spectrophotometric measurements and valued by the absorbance of the film exposed to a solar simulator.In addition, we were interested in discovering new plant-derived active ingredients for the regulation of skin hyperpigmentation disorders. For this process, five essential oils (EO) of indigenous or endemic plants to Lebanon were extracted and their composition was studied by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS). We studied as well their molecular effects on cutaneous structures by in tubo and in vitro analysis. In tubo enzymatic analysis allowed us to identify an important anti tyrosinase activity of the two EO of Origanum syriacum and Origanum ehrenbergii. This activity was linked to the phytochemical composition of the EO and was assigned to the presence of their main component, carvacrol. In vitro cell cultures of melanocytes enabled us to determine a significant reduction in the melanin production in the presence of the EOs and carvacrol. Furthermore, we were able to define the mechanism of action of carvacrol by linking both in tubo and in vitro studies: carvacrol binds to tyrosinase and undergoes a series of oxidation reactions, thus preventing the oxidation of tyrosine. This mechanism is called competitive inhibition and it disturbs the regular pathway of melanogenesis.Our study is the first to demonstrate the anti tyrosinase activity of the EO of O. syriacum and O. ehrenbergii. The complementarity between efficacy tests and the phytochemical GC-MS analysis was our tool to discover that tyrosinase inhibition is mainly due to the presence of carvacrol that acts by competitive inhibition.Thus, the application of a sunscreen paired with the application of cutaneous melanogenesis regulator could be an effective solution for skin hyperpigmentation disorders.

Greyia radlkoferi is a South African indigenous tree, which has recently been discovered to be a source of extracts that have a potential in the development of cosmeceutical herbal products having the ability to treat hyperpigmentation disorders. For product development however, G. radlkoferi would need to be available in a commercial scale. Greyia radlkoferi grows naturally in the wild and is often available for cultivation as an ornamental plant. In order to establish this plant into cultivation, suitable propagation techniques must be established for rapid multiplication of trees and thus a sustainable leaf production. For consistent and improved leaf supply to the market, agronomic practices that will enhance leaf production were investigated in the current study. Furthermore, in order to meet market demand in terms of good quality extracts with guaranteed therapeutic efficiency, pre-harvest and post-harvest factors that affect the chemical composition of the extracts were investigated. Recently developed biotechnology techniques such as metabolomics using 1H-NMR and multivariate data analysis offered a platform to study the chemical variation of extracts. Therefore, the current study was aimed at understanding the requirements for propagation and optimum leaf production as well as conditions that favour optimum production of secondary metabolite of G. radlkoferi plant material (at pre and post-harvest) and thus assess its commercial viability. To understand the effects of temperature on seed germination of G. radlkoferi, seeds were exposed to five temperatures (10°C, 15°C, 20°C, 25°C and 30°C) in the incubators in the laboratory. Germination of G. radlkoferi by seeds was discovered to be temperature dependent. The optimum germination temperature of 81% was obtained at 25°C. In the case of vegetative propagation by stem cuttings, the effect of cutting position (basal or apical), exogenous rooting hormone (Seradix1, Seradix 2, 0.1% IBA, 0.3% IBA and 0.8% IBA) and cutting position were investigated in the glasshouse. The cutting position had a significant effect on rooting of G. radlkoferi cuttings with basal cuttings exhibiting 35% rooting as compared to 6% rooting attained for the apical cuttings. A clear trend in rooting response to application of rooting hormones was observed, with 0.1% Indole butyric acid (IBA) showing the highest rooting percentage of 63%. Considering the outcomes of the propagation studies as well as the limited material for vegetative propagation, seed propagation appears to be the most suitable technique for large-scale multiplication of G. radlkoferi. The effect of different pruning techniques as well as harvesting frequencies on fresh and dry weights of G. radlkoferi leaves were evaluated. Factors considered were four pruning treatments (‘pruned but not tipped’, ‘tipped but not pruned’, ‘not pruned nor tipped’ as well as ‘pruned and tipped’) and three harvesting periods (monthly, bimonthly and once–off). Bimonthly harvests highly increased leaf production compared to trees that were harvested monthly and once-off with higher leaf fresh weight yield of 238 g per tree or 2.38 tons/per hectare as well as dry weight yield of 83 g per tree or 0.830 tons/hectare. This outcomes of this study further suggested that a suitable pruning practice for G. radlkoferi would be to either ‘prune only’ or ‘cut back the main stem’ rather than a combination of the two treatments. The influence of seasons (summer, autumn, winter and spring) on the anti-tyrosinase activity and metabolomics profile of G. radlkoferi leaf extracts were investigated. Seasons significantly influenced the chemical composition and the efficacy of the plant extracts. Tyrosinase enzyme inhibition was investigated against monophenolase (tyrosine) with kojic acid as positive control. The highest tyrosinase inhibition concentration with IC50 (50% tyrosinase inhibition concentration) value of 30.3±1.8 μg/ml were obtained in winter harvested leaves compared to the other seasons. The lowest IC50 values were obtained in spring. Metabolomics analysis using orthogonal partial least square discriminant analysis (OPLS-DA) provided a clear class separation according to the harvest season. Extracts from winter harvested leaves contained sucrose, acetamide, alanine and a compound of the catechin group (gallocatechin-(4 alpha->8)-epigallocatechin) as revealed by 1H-NMR metabolomics with assistance of LC-MS. Since compounds of the catechin group are well-known tyrosinase inhibitors, the high tyrosinase activity exhibited in extracts of winter harvested G. radlkoferi leaves could be ascribed to the presence of gallocatechin-(4 alpha->8)-epigallocatechin. Based on the outcomes of the seasonal study, we suggest that in order to obtain extracts with high bioactivity, the best suitable time for harvesting leaf samples is in late autumn-early winter. Processing leaf material using three different drying methods (sun, oven and air drying) significantly influenced chemical composition and the efficacy of the plant extracts. Extracts prepared from air-dried leaf material showed the highest tyrosinase inhibition with IC50 value of 17.80 μg/ml compared to extracts of the other drying methods. Extracts of leaves processed with air drying preserved most metabolites during processing while extracts of sun-dried and oven-dried leaves clearly depleted some metabolites especially amino acids and some aromatic compounds. 1H-NMR metabolomics approach with the assistance of LC-MS data successfully determined a positive association of alanine, acetamide, sucrose and gallocatechin-(4 alpha->8)-epigallocatechin as the chemical constituents contributing to the variation in the air-dried leaves compared to the oven-dried leaves. A positive association of valine, alanine, leucine, isoleucine, gallocatechin-(4 alpha->8)-epigallocatechin and glucose contributed to the variation in air-dried group, compared to the sun-dried group. The highest tyrosinase inhibitory activity exhibited in air-dried samples compared to the other drying methods was associated with the presence of gallocatechin-(4 alpha->8)-epigallocatechin. Because air drying preserved most leaf metabolites compared to sun and oven drying, it was regarded as the most suitable method for processing G. radlkoferi leaf material. This study is the first scientific account that provides guidelines and recommendations to (1) establish G. radlkoferi as a cultivated plant for commercialization, (2) optimize leaf production for sustainable supply to the commercial markets and (3) optimize medicinal content of G. radlkoferi related to harvesting time and post-harvest processing (drying), for enhanced quality of extracts and its products / Agriculture, Animal Health and Human Ecology / Ph. D. (Agriculture)