Thesis (Ph.D.)--Columbia University, 1998. / Includes bibliographical references (p. [181]-186) and index.

Thesis (M.B.A.)--University of Hong Kong, 1996. / Includes bibliographical references (leaf [108]-112). Also available in print.

The problem of this investigation was to make an exploratory examination of the distribution practices of apparel manufacturers as perceived by apparel retailers. Specifically, the purposes of this study were to identify those areas of perceived conflict between women's apparel retailers and apparel manufacturers from the viewpoint of the retailer, determine if there was a relationship between select retailer variables and the quality of service that retailers perceived apparel manufacturers were giving, determine whether some merchandise classifications were perceived by retailers to be greater problem areas than other merchandise classifications, to determine factors contributing to the enhancement of perceived conflict within apparel marketing channels, and to suggest remedies that would improve apparel channel relationships. The report concluded with the presentation of an apparel retailer expectation model and suggestions for additional research.

The purpose of the study was born out of a perceived need to establish an assessment strategy framework for the fashion programme of one Eastern Cape comprehensive university. The study focused on one Eastern Cape comprehensive university. The programme, National Diploma: Fashion, is offered by the university at two campuses (120km apart). Although this programme is currently offered at both of the sites under the auspices of the university, disparity exists in many of the academic functions within the programme. The most challenging is assessment and the implications of a non-existent standard framework for assessment across both campuses. This research undertook to identify a framework that would best serve the Fashion programme of the researched university. Assessment in the context of this study referred to the process of both gathering evidence of student learning as well as assigning grades to that learning. The lack of an assessment framework affects the quality of assessment. Consistency in the assessment process across both campuses is important. At present assessment is not consistent as it is done independently on each campus. This lack of consistency could prove to favour students at the one campus while marginalizing students at the other campus and vice versa. Inconsistency arises from staff having no common assessment framework to refer to when assessment takes place. This study was a case study. Interviews were conducted with a sample of lecturers and students from both sites. A document analysis of relevant policies was done. The documents included the Higher Education Quality Committee document Criteria for Programme Accreditation, 2004, the South African Qualification Authority document Criteria and Guidelines for Assessment of NQF Registered Unit Standards and Qualifications, 2001, and the South African Qualification Authority document Guidelines for Integrated Assessment, 2005. University policy documents pertaining to assessment were also included in the research.The findings of this study lead to the conclusion that there is no clear assessment framework currently in place for the National Diploma: Fashion at one Eastern Cape comprehensive university. The assessment methods currently in use are not fully understood and comprehended by lecturers or students. The assessment types are limited with little or no variety as to how assessment is practiced. Although continuous assessment is advocated in the department, a lack of understanding by lecturers and students as to the true practice of continuous assessment is evident. Much of the assessment is done at the end of a teaching module, rather than embedded in the teaching module. This means that assessment is done of learning rather than for learning.

Thesis (BTech (Fashion Design))--Cape Peninsula University of Technology, 2010 / Children grow at fast rates. Due to this fact, parents constantly need to purchase new clothes as children out grow their clothes before it becomes fully worn. Parents spend thousands each year on children's clothing only to have them disposed of before it has reached its maximum wear ability. The purpose of this research is to analyse children's growth pattems and investigate means of increasing the lifespan! wear ability of children's clothing. The practise of increasing the lifespan! wear ability of clothing lends itself to the Sustainable Design paradigm that encourages designers to create products (garments) with longer lifecycles and discourages waste at every stage of the products lifespan. The process of "tossing out" clothes or not wearing it to its maximum utilization creates waste and fuels mass consumption.As a result masses of clothing end up in landfills and due to its mainly synthetic nature, it causes harm to the environment. By incorporating innovative design and construction techniques I aim to explore methods of adjusting garments according to the growth experienced by children annually. This will allow children to wear the garments for a longer period eliminating the need for parents to purchase new clothing when the clothes no longer fit.

Luxury fashion brands seem to contradict sustainability. The values of sustainability are commonly associated with terms such as sharing, collaboration, austerity, and collective thinking. Luxury, however, is associated with excess, self-indulgence, delight and decadence (Kapferer & Bastien, 2012:360). Further paradoxes exist where the apparel of the luxury consumer is often manufactured by labourers in low wage-paying producing countries. High wastage is evident in the seasonality of the fashion industry. However, work opportunities are created by the fickleness of the fashion industry and the constant need to own the most current designs (Black, 2012:8). Owing to the high visibility of luxury fashion and the contractions between one -- on the one hand -- supplying income to families by way of employment and -- on the other hand -- not complying to sustainable international human resource practices, fashion brands are the focus of many non-governmental organisations (NGOs) that use the mass media to expose any social wrongdoing in the industry. Luxury fashion brands are constantly in the spotlight, as highlighted in articles posted by the Clean Clothes campaign, a custodian for employees in the global garment industries; Greenpeace; and People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA). An example of such practices was when Greenpeace reported in 2009 that shoe brands such as Timberland and Clarks were manufactured from leather sourced from the hides of cattle in illegally deforested areas in Brazil. This provided negative publicity for these luxury shoe brands as well as for the Brazilian government that was financing this project (Vurro, Russo & Perrini, 2009:609). The luxury fashion brand industry, as well as the consumers of luxury fashion labels, are accused -- often only for the sake of sensationalism -- of living in the lap of luxury whilst maintaining a supply chain that is riddled with unsustainable practices. The social structure and hierarchy of patrons within a community have, since the Middle Ages, been signalled by the clothes they wore. Social class was a birthright. Today, sporting luxury brands continues to serve as status symbols, but unlike mediaeval times, it is not limited to people with a high social standing at birth as one can work for status, and purchase the items because one deserves them. (Han, Nunes, & Drèze, 2010:15). In 2009, during the International Herald Tribune (IHT) Suzy Menkes, the fashion editor at The Herald, called for “luxury”’ and “fashion” to be separated. Luxury prides itself in its handcrafted garments manufactured by respected tradesmen in the industry. The outcome is that the manufactured goods are made to last a lifetime (Gibson, 2012:23).

Conventional theories and empirical studies on global production networks (GPNs) and global value chains (GVCs) have dealt with the dynamic organization of production on global, regional, national, and local scales but have given limited attention to market dynamics. In recent years, particularly in the aftermath of the 2008 global financial crisis, a paradigmatic shift was observed in GPNs and GVCs that directed interests in market dynamics of developing country suppliers in the changing market dynamics in the Global North and the South. However, this phenomenon has not received adequate attention in the existing literature. This thesis aims to examine the firm-level market strategies of labor-intensive supplier firms in developing countries and the effects on the organization of production networks. Since the opening and reform in the late 1970s, the development of labor-intensive industries in China and the Pearl River Delta (PRD) in particular, the well-known "world factory", have been significantly driven by export to advanced Western markets, such as the United States and European Union. However, in recent years, manufacturing suppliers in the PRD have changed their market orientations, leading to the considerable industrial transformation. Taking the furniture and garment industries in the PRD as a case, this thesis attempts to systematically explore the market strategies of manufacturing suppliers in different sectors and regions/sub-regions and the subsequent effects on the transformation of manufacturing industries and reorganization of production networks through three empirical case studies. First, the study examines the market strategies of export-oriented furniture supplier firms in the eastern PRD (Dongguan and Shenzhen City) and its effects on industrial transformation and reorganization of production networks. Second, to compare the market strategies of different kinds of suppliers in different sub-regions, the study explores the domestic market-oriented furniture suppliers in the western PRD (Shunde District, Foshan City). Third, for the understanding of the interaction between spatial cross-border production relocation and market strategies, this study investigates the market strategies of relocated garment supplier firms when they relocated manufacturing operations from China to Southeast Asia and explores the subsequent reorganization of production networks Based on the field investigation and particularly in-depth interviews with furniture and garment manufacturing firms in the PRD, this study identifies three types of market strategies of suppliers in the PRD and different effects on the organization of production networks. First, in the export-oriented furniture industry in the eastern PRD, most of furniture suppliers engaged in market reorientation from exporting to Western markets (e.g., the US and EU) to selling in the domestic markets of China through in-term firm partnerships with domestic chain retailers. Strategic recoupling with domestic markets of China stimulated the emergence of domestic market-oriented production networks in which supplier firms gained functional upgrading and experienced downgrading simultaneously. Second, in the domestic market-oriented furniture industry in the western PRD, domestic market-oriented suppliers who previous served for low-end segment of domestic markets of China have turned to engage in the market diversification to target different market niches. The diversified market strategies including low-end, middle-end, and high-end market strategies made furniture production networks evolve from merely relying on the domestic markets of China to co-dependence on emerging markets of China and other developing economies. In the reorganized production networks, furniture suppliers gained functional upgrading as they integrated into higher-end segments of domestic markets. Third, different from furniture suppliers, garment supplier firms engaged in the cross-border production relocation from China to the lower-cost Southeast Asia, particularly Vietnam, which is driven by different market strategies. Garment firms relocated from China to Southeast Asia for maintaining their strategic coupling with global brand names from advanced Western markets. Whilst, textile firms conducted production relocation to meet the requirements and strategic needs of buyers from home markets of China and host markets in Southeast Asia. There has witnessed the emergence of Western market-oriented triangular production networks coordinated by the relocated foreign-invested and Chinese garment firms, in which relocated garment firms have gained limited upgrading prospects. This thesis argues that market strategies adopted by local suppliers to change their power relations with other actors, such as global brand names and domestic retailers, have emerged as one of the most remarkable driving forces behind the transformation of manufacturing industries in China and particularly the PRD in the changing global economy. Emerging market-driven production networks have been emerged in manufacturing industries in China, with the rise of emerging markets in developing countries. In particular, China played an important role in reshaping the spatial and structural organization of global production networks and value chains. This research contributes to the literature by exploring the changing market dynamics with focus on the firm-level strategies. It also adds the literature by exploring the implications of emerging markets in the Global South for the reorganization of global production networks and value chains. In contrast to the previous industrial development pattern in developing countries that resulted from integration into Western market-led production networks, market strategies of local suppliers in the PRD has demonstrated a bias toward emerging market-driven industrial development.

This is a study of the relationship between approaches to people management and competitiveness, by examining the case of the textile and clothing industry in Southern Africa. The textile and clothing industry has historically played a major role in many national economies (including many southern African countries) contributing not only to overall economic growth, but also to the creation of significant numbers of relatively well-paid jobs. In the Southern African Region (SAR), the textile and clothing industry has undergone many structural pressures in the face of increased cheap imports from South-East Asian countries – above all, China and Bangladesh - which have resulted in the closure of many firms, and the significant downsizing of many survivors. This study seeks to explore the relationship between HR practice and organizational sustainability in the textile and clothing industry in Southern Africa region, with a particular emphasis on the cases of three countries: South Africa, Mauritius and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Whilst at very different stages of national development, and with distinct political and developmental histories, all three countries were subject to active industrial policies, including the development of national clothing and textile industries. Again, all have faced the challenge of sustaining these industries in the face of liberalization and intensive competition from the Far East. This study is based on a multi-method approach, combining in-depth interviews with national industry surveys, and the usage of relevant documentary sources. It takes cognizance of the increasing relevance of new HRM practices and discourses to the growing field of Development Studies in the 21st century. The existing HRM literature suggests that there are a number of alternative people management strategies through which firms may secure their competitiveness, most notably strategic approaches to hard HRM (which treats people as an instrument to be strategically deployed to promote competitiveness), soft HRM (which promotes cooperative approaches to managing people) and traditional labour repression (managing people simply as a cost, to be managed in a short-term, un-strategic manner). The literature on HRM in Africa has suggested an alternative paradigm, which combines autocratic paternalism with elements of communitarianism. This study found that the bulk of firms encompassed by the study employed HR policies that recognizably fell within the soft HRM paradigm, enabling high value added production. However, an important exception lies in the area of security of tenure: firms tended to combine high levels of employee involvement and participation; as well as a commitment to human resource development, along with a persistent reliance on the usage of redundancies to adjust changes in the relative need for labour. Hence, this study highlights the limitations of theoretical approaches which see HR strategies as being necessarily coherent and self-reinforcing. Firms may broadly adhere to one approach, whilst adopting aspects of another as needs arise and in response to external pressures. An important exception to this was Mauritius, in which security of tenure appeared to be stronger, perhaps owing to the greater ease of enforcing regulations against illegal imports in a relatively small island country by allowing firms to plan for the future with greater confidence. In contrast, firms in South Africa were characterized by much lower security of tenure, against a backdrop of declining profits, reflecting the competitive challenges posed not only by legitimate low cost imports, but also illegal imports and the proliferation of rural sweatships. One again, this study highlights the relative fragility of the position of many firms and the continued importance of governmental support, most notably in terms of export incentives, support and facilitation in the adoption of new technologies, as well as better policing against illegal imports.

This project dealt with the teenage market in France and in the United States. Its aim was to provide the readers with an overview of this market and outline distribution and communication strategies that manufacturers and retailers can use to attract this market to make their business grow. Until a few years ago, the fashion industry did not pursue this market. In stores, most brands were dividing their clothing range into three catagories, women, men, and children. As a growing market with over 23 million teens in the U.S. and over 5.4 million in France, teenagers have an incredible spending power with 100 billion dollars spent in 2000 in the United States and 2.54 billion dollars spent in France. Now marketers are recognizing the teenage market as a huge potential for the future of their brands.

The purpose of this project is to develop a web-based application called Littlebee that allows customers to do online design of babies' wear. The online designing options include combining appliques with clothing styles and changing fabric colors; it utilizes images pre-stored in the database.