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This thesis investigates the application of complex adaptive systems approaches (e.g. Artificial Neural Networks and Evolutionary Computation) to the study of coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic behaviour. Traditionally, nearshore morphological coastal system studies have developed an understanding of those physical processes occurring on both short temporal, and small spatial scales with a large degree of success. The associated approaches and concepts used to study the coastal system at these scales have primarily been linear in nature. However, when these approaches to studying the coastal system are extended to investigating larger temporal and spatial scales, which are commensurate with the aims of coastal management, results have had less success. The lack of success in developing an understanding of large scale coastal behaviour is to a large extent attributable to the complex behaviour associated with the coastal system. This complexity arises as a result of both the stochastic and chaotic nature of the coastal system. This allows small scale system understanding to be acquired but prevents the larger scale behaviour to be predicted effectively. This thesis presents four hydro-morphodynamic case studies to demonstrate the utility of complex adaptive system approaches for studying coastal systems. The first two demonstrate the application of Artificial Neural Networks, whilst the latter two illustrate the application of Evolutionary Computation. Case Study #1 considers the nature of the discrepancy between the observed location of wave breaking patterns over submerged sandbars and the actual sandbar locations. Artificial Neural Networks were able to quantitatively correct the observed locations to produce reliable estimates of the actual sand bar locations. Case Study #2 considers the development of an approach for the discrimination of shoreline location in video images for the production of intertidal maps of the nearshore region. In this case the system modelled by the Artificial Neural Network is the nature of the discrimination model carried out by the eye in delineating a shoreline feature between regions of sand and water. The Artificial Neural Network approach was shown to robustly recognise a range of shoreline features at a variety of beaches and hydrodynamic settings. Case Study #3 was the only purely hydrodynamic study considered in the thesis. It investigated the use of Evolutionary Computation to provide means of developing a parametric description of directional wave spectra in both reflective and nonreflective conditions. It is shown to provide a unifying approach which produces results which surpassed those achieved by traditional analysis approaches even though this may not strictly have been considered as a fiddly complex system. Case Study #4 is the most ambitious application and addresses the need for data reduction as a precursor when trying to study large scale morphodynamic data sets. It utilises Evolutionary Computation approaches to extract the significant morphodynamic variability evidenced in both directly and remotely sampled nearshore morphologies. Significant data reduction is achieved whilst reWning up to 90% of the original variability in the data sets. These case studies clearly demonstrate the ability of complex adaptive systems to be successfully applied to coastal system studies. This success has been shown to equal and sometimess surpass the results that may be obtained by traditional approaches. The strong performance of Complex Adaptive System approaches is closely linked to the level of complexity or non-linearity of the system being studied. Based on a qualitative evaluation, Evolutionary Computation was shown to demonstrate an advantage over Artificial Neural Networks in terms of the level of new insights which may be obtained. However, utility also needs to consider general ease of applicability and ease of implementation of the study approach. In this sense, Artificial Neural Networks demonstrate more utility for the study of coastal systems. The qualitative assessment approach used to evaluate the case studies in this thesis, may be used as a guide for choosing the appropriateness of either Artificial Neural Networks or Evolutionary Computation for future coastal system studies.

Au début du 20ème siècle, l'étang de Berre était occupée par de larges prairies sous-marines de Zostera qui ont fortement réduit sous l'impact des pollutions et arrivées massives d'eau douce par le canal EDF. Pollutions et arrivées d'eaux ont beaucoup réduit mais les herbiers ne s'étendent pas vers le large. Cette thèse a donc pour but d'analyser les interactions entre les herbiers sous-marins de l'étang de Berre basé sur l'hypothèse que la dynamique hydro-sédimentaire peut jouer un rôle dans le maintien des herbiers à l'état relique. Dans cette lagune, le vent conditionne l'hydrodynamisme en générant des vagues de vent et des courants.L'atténuation des vagues par l'herbier est en lien avec la hauteur des vagues (dépendant de la vitesse du vent, la longueur de fetch et des effets de réfraction lié à la morphologie de la anse) et est modulée par la biométrie de l'herbier, le niveau d'eau ou la présence de courants. Alors qu'au dessus de l'herbier, les courants sont rapides et fortement influencés par le vent et les vagues de vent, une couche de transition eau-canopée permet la dissipation de l'énergie des vagues et des courants. Dans la canopée, les courants sont très atténués grâce à la présence de l'herbier. L'herbier apparaît comme un élément important de la dynamique sédimentaire car il peut, par sa simple présence, réduire l'hydrodynamisme et modifier l'évolution du fond dans et en arrière de l'herbier et protéger la plage. Le niveau de récurrence de vents forts semble contrôler les évolutions sédimentaires.Les fortes interactions de l'herbier avec la dynamique hydro-sédimentaire laissent penser qu'elle pourrait limiter leur extension dans des zones plus exposées. / Berre lagoon was occupied by extensive meadows at the turn of the 20th century which regressed down under the impact of urban and industrial pollution and inflow of the EDF canal. Even though freshwater inputs and pollutions were drastically reduced respectively in the 1980s and 1990s, meadows have not significantly gained ground. This thesis aims at analysing the interactions between seagrass meadows of Berre lagoon, hydrodynamics and sedimentary processes, based on the postulate that these mechanisms are important in the maintenance of the meadows in their present dispersed form. In the lagoon, winds constitute the dominant influence on hydrodynamics in the lagoon by generating wind waves and currents. Wave attenuation is linked to wave height, which is, in turn, dependent on wind intensity and fetch length and modified by the bay morphology. Wave attenuation is also modulated by meadow biometry, and by water levels and currents.Whereas currents are strong and strongly influenced by wind and wind waves above the meadow, a transition canopy-water layer dissipates waves and currents. In the canopy, currents are thus attenuated.The meadow is not just a passive element in the overall sediment dynamics since it reduces energy and thus modifies substrate changes within and in the back of the meadow, thus protecting the shoreline. However, it is the recurrence of strong wind that seems to drive sedimentary changes. The strong interactions between the meadow and the hydrodynamic and sedimentary processes could limit the extension of the meadow in areas more exposed to waves.

Les estuaires sont des zones à l’interface terre-mer au coeur de la question du devenir des apports continentaux drainés par les grands bassins versants. L’objet de cette étude est focalisé sur l’estuaire de la Loire et ses zones adjacentes (i.e. baie de Bourgneuf et le Mor-Bras) situés dans le nord-est du Golfe de Gascogne. C’est un environnement soumis à l’influence significative de la marée qui se propage en amont de l’embouchure à plus de 100 km, de forçages météorologiques de moyennes latitudes donc hautement variables qui induisent en particulier des débits fluviaux pouvant varier d’un facteur dix. Cette variabilité est étudiée à l’aide d’un modèle numérique et des outils de description de la circulation qui permettent de mieux cerner les temps de séjours et de transits des eaux continentales dans l’estuaire et vers les baies riveraines. L’approche s’appuie sur un modèle en grille structurée mais dont la malléabilité pour décrire la complexité du domaine à simuler est donnée par le caractère non orthogonal des mailles employées pour la discrétisation. Le choix d’un système de coordonnées optimale (covariantes ou contravariantes) est discuté puis implémenté dans le code MARS-3D. Ce nouvel outil est qualifié et validé sur des cas-test puis implémenté en conditions réelles sur un domaine à la géométrie particulièrement accidentée. Les simulations reproduisent très finement la dynamique du grand panache de la Loire et confirment sa très grande variabilité spatiale et temporelle que décrivent partiellement des observations à haute fréquence et ponctuelles ; elles permettent de décrire les chemins privilégiés des masses d’eau à travers les sections de références choisies. / Estuaries are key areas in between land and ocean which play a major role in the spreading ofcontinental runoff drained by large watershed. This study focused on the Loire Estuary and its adjacentbays (i.e. Bourgneuf bay and Mor-Braz sea) all located in the north-east side of the bay of Biscay. It isinfluenced by the large tidal wave that propagates upstream the mouth on more than a 100 km, by highlymid-latitude meteorological forcing that may not only induced High variability in the circulation driversbut also on the river runoffs that may vary from 1 to 10 from early spring to late summer. This Highvariability is studied thanks to numerical simulation and tools dedicated to describe the circulation withsynthetic index such as transit time and mean age of water. The approach lies on a numerical modeldiscretized on a structure grid which constraints have been relaxed to better fit the fractal coastal lineusing non orthogonal grid cells. The optimal coordinate framework (co or contra-variant) have beendiscussed, and implemented within a pre-existing code (i.e. MARS-3D). This tools was validated withtest cases and implemented on a domain with a particular complex geometry. The numerical simulationscatch very accurately the dynamic of this large plume at least as it is described by available in situobservations. This numerical solution allowed to exhibit the main path of water masses through the areaand from place to place and their variability according to the main forcings.