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  • About
  • The Global ETD Search service is a free service for researchers to find electronic theses and dissertations. This service is provided by the Networked Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations.
    Our metadata is collected from universities around the world. If you manage a university/consortium/country archive and want to be added, details can be found on the NDLTD website.
1

La métaphore du cintre : corps et apparition dans les défilés de mode / Metáfora do cabide : corpo e aparição nos desfiles de moda / Metaphor of the hanger : body and apparition in the fashion shows

Costa Leahy, Renata 05 November 2018 (has links)
Les défilés de mode mettent en scène des propositions visuelles sur les corps humains, habituellement ceux des mannequins minces. Dans le contexte contemporain, elles sont vantés comme des canons de beauté, mais d’autre part sont remises en question sur la réalité de leurs formes corporelles et la qualité de leur présence et de leur action sur les podiums: elles sont souvent vus comme des cintres de vêtements. Cependant sont eux qui conforment, avec les vêtements, des figures humaines, par des attitudes qui visent la composition des types de possibilités d’apparition. Notre étude se concentre dans le processus de ce mettre en forme, à travers de l’enquête sur les corps vêtus de défilés de mode, en utilisant comme exemples d'analyse quatre labels/créateurs brésiliens à la saison d'octobre 2016 de la São Paulo Fashion Week: Animale, Lab, Água de Coco et Ronaldo Fraga. Nous partons de la compréhension des visuels présentés dans des défilés de mode en tant que corps habillés, dans lesquels le corps et le vêtement travaillent ensemble pour la composition de la forme; et la capacité cinétique des corps et des vêtements, un élément qui dynamise les visuels. Cette activité réalisatrice des corps habillés dans les défilés de mode, leur action et mouvements corporels, sont de la compétence de leur dimension sensible, donc, en relation avec la culture et l'espace de manière intersubjective. Une telle réflexion nous invite à prendre en compte la relation des corps avec les types de défilés et ses éléments, tels que l'endroit, le son, les accessoires, toute l'atmosphère symbolique de la présentation, qui dirige les façons d'apparition des corps. Les corps habillés en défilés de mode se révèlent ainsi comme des formes complexes, sensibles et expressives des fuites corporelles. / The fashion shows place to visuality dressing proposals on human bodies, generally those of the thin models. In the contemporary context, sometimes they are praised as canons of beauty, and at other times they are questioned about the reality of their corporal shapes and the quality of their presence and action on the runways: they are often seen as clothing hangers. But they are the ones who, allied to the clothes, conform human figures, in attitudes that aim the composition of possibilities of apparition. Our study investigates the process of this put in form, by examining the dressed bodies in fashion shows, using as examples for analysis the bodies in runways of four brazilian brands/designers of the October 2016 season of São Paulo Fashion Week: Animale, Lab, Água de Coco and Ronaldo Fraga. We start from the comprehension of the visuals presented in fashion shows as dressed bodies, in which body and clothes work together for the composition of the form in possibilities of combinations; and the kinetic capacity of body and clothing, an element that dynamizes the human visual. In this sense, we look for this realization of the dressed bodies in fashion shows through their action and their body movements, which are the competence of their sensitive dimension, related, therefore, with culture and space in an intersubjective way. Such a thought urges us to take into account, in this studied put in form, the relation of bodies with the types of fashion shows and with their elements, such as location, sound, props, the whole symbolic atmosphere of the elaborated presentation. The dressed bodies in fashion shows are thus revealed as complex, sensitive and expressive shapes and forms of body leaks / Os desfiles de moda colocam à visualidade propostas vestimentares sobre corpos humanos, geralmente os das modelos magras. No contexto contemporâneo, ora são elogiadas como cânones de beleza, ora questionadas quanto à realidade de suas formas corporais e à qualidade de sua presença e ação nas passarelas: são tidas, em muitos momentos, como cabides de roupas. Mas são elas que, aliadas às roupas, conformam figuras humanas, em atitudes que miram a composição de possibilidades de aparição. O nosso estudo se debruça sobre o processo desse por em forma, investigando os corpos vestidos de desfiles de moda, utilizando como exemplos para análise quatro marcas/designers brasileiros da edição de outubro de 2016 da São Paulo Fashion Week: Animale, Lab, Água de Coco e Ronaldo Fraga. Partimos da compreensão das visualidades apresentadas em desfiles de moda como corpos vestidos, em que corpo e roupa operam juntos para a composição da forma em possibilidades de combinações; e a capacidade cinética de corpo e roupa, elemento que dinamiza a visualidade. Nesse sentido, atentamos para essa realização dos corpos vestidos nos desfiles de moda por meio de sua ação e movimentos corporais, que são da competência de sua dimensão sensível, se relacionando, portanto, com a cultura e o espaço de maneira intersubjetiva. Tal fato nos instiga a ter em conta, no por em forma estudado, a relação dos corpos com os tipos de desfiles e seus elementos, como locação, som e adereços, toda a atmosfera simbólica da apresentação elaborada, que direciona as maneiras de aparição do corpo. Os corpos vestidos de desfiles de moda se desvelam, assim, como formas complexas, sensíveis e expressivas de vazamentos corporais.

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