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The purpose of this research was to analyze US apparel trade building up to and following the MFA IV renewal in 1986, so as to gain insight into the reasons for US apparel industry support of the new fiber inclusions, and to gauge effects of MFA IV on US apparel imports overall and specifically from the PRC. The study focused on the period 1978 - 1988. Total imports from all suppliers (World) were examined by country of origin: China (PRC), and rest of world (ROW); fiber content: MFA IV-fiber or all fibers and whether knitted or woven construction. The imports were then examined to determine the impact of economic variables such as the exchange rate, and US personal apparel consumption expenditure (PCE). Imports were found to have increased from 1978 to 1987 and then to have declined in all categories except one from 1987 to 1988. The MFA IV, implemented in August 1986 was believed to have caused a reduction of import volumes after an initial lag period (expected in international trade). However, other factors were implicated in the trade reduction primarily the fall of the dollar. The dollar was strong through the early 1980s until its peak in 1985, it then declined for the rest of the study. The one category which continued to increase after the trade restriction was items of MFA IV woven apparel. The reason for this continued increase is not clear but it is believed to be the absence of specific restriction, i.e., pure silk had not been included in bilateral agreements so it is possible that suppliers were switching the product mix to increasing quantities of the less restricted group. Also this would have been the case if the items were coming from new and/or unrestricted suppliers. In conclusion, it is felt that the apparel import rate or increase was the primary concern and the factor that determined action not the actual volume of imports as the MFA IV-fibers were increasingly used in apparel production. / Ph. D.

The differential effects of clothing interest and knowledge on the utilization of price and intrinsic attributes on product evaluation and behavioral intentions were investigated. The impact of clothing interest and knowledge, price, and intrinsic attributes on attitude toward advertisements and perceptions of relevance, typicality, and fashionability were examined. Causal relationships among constructs were verified through path analysis. A conceptual model was developed and tested. To test the proposed model and additional propositions, a survey was conducted with manipulated variables. Data were collected in Clothing and Textiles departments of three universities and Communications and Marketing departments in one university. Respondents evaluated a pair of dress slacks inclusive of manipulated price and intrinsic attributes. A total of 417 questionnaires were subjected to statistical analysis. The items used to measure the theoretical constructs were thoroughly tested to assure the reliability of the measures and manipulation checks were conducted. The data were analyzed by multiple regression to test the significance of the proposed relationships. To test the differences between the high and low clothing interest and knowledge conditions, subjects were divided into two groups based on median scores on clothing interest and clothing knowledge scales. Then the data were subjected to analysis of variance and Duncan's Multiple Range Test. The results indicate that taken together, price, intrinsic attributes, clothing interest and knowledge significantly help to predict perceptions of quality, monetary sacrifice, perceptions of benefits, perceptions of value, willingness to buy, search intention, and attitude toward advertisements. Intrinsic attributes were significant in predicting the perceptions of quality, benefits, monetary sacrifice, value, and subjects' willingness to buy, search intention, attitude toward advertisements, and perceptions of typicality. Clothing interest was significant in predicting perceptions of monetary sacrifice, perceptions of benefits, perceptions of value, and willingness to buy. The proposed effect of clothing knowledge was significant in predicting subjects' perceptions of quality and intentions to search. The model specifying the causal relationships among the proposed variables was analyzed by Path Analysis. The results indicated that the relationships were significant and thus the proposed model was supported. / Ph. D.

The purpose of this study was to determine if there were differences in clothing values between Black and White middle-income women patronizing the primary and second-order markets, and to determine if there were differences in the clothing buying practices between these groups in the two markets. A self-administered questionnaire was distributed to a purposive sample of 250 Black and White women residing in three metropolitan areas. The clothing values measured were economic, political, religious, and conformity. Eighteen clothing buying practices were included in this study. N1ne practices were speclfical1y directed toward the second-order market shoppers. Variations were found in the rank order of clothing values within the two groups. Blacks ranked the religious value higher and conform1ty lower than the Whites. Blacks scored higher on the economic and re1igous clothing values while Whites scored higher on conformity. Significant differences between Black and White middle-income women in their clothing buying practices were found in: (1) the method used to acquire the majority of clothing; (2) the percentage of personal clothing items purchased in primary stores; and (3) buying pattern for a dress costing more than $50.00. Significant differences between Black and White middle-income women who used the second-order market were found in: (1) length of time respondents had purchased used-clothing; (2) satisfaction with price when making used-clothing purchases; (3) shopping the Salvation Army, Goodwill, and thrift stores; purchasing of (4) pants; and buying used-clothing to wear for (5) work and (6) school. Middle-income women who used the primary market exclusively scored higher on the conformity clothing value than did those who used the second-order market. Black consumers who used the second-order market held higher religious clothing values and lower conformity values than did the White women. / Ph. D.

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The purpose of the study was to extend knowledge concerning the influence of self-image congruity and public self-consciousness on clothing behavior from the symbolic consumption perspective. Thus, relationships among the three major constructs, public self-consciousness (PSC), self-image/clothing-image congruity (actual self-congruity, ASC and ideal social-congruity, ISSC) and clothing-style preference (CSP), were examined. The five objectives that guided the study were to discover whether 1) a specific CSP is related to ASC or ISSC; 2) differences in respondents' CSPs among four different clothing styles exist; 3) individual differences in PSC are related to CSPs; 4) individual differences in PSC result in differences in ASC or ISSC; and 5) the Direct Method of measuring ASC or ISSC is more predictive of CSP than the Indirect Method. A 7-point Likert Scale was utilized to elicit responses to the four line drawn clothing-styles depicting the dramatic, sporty, feminine, and classic image. The actual- and ideal social-self were the two referential images of the self. Data were obtained via a mailed self-administered questionnaire from 229 working women who were faculty (75) and staff (154) members of two universities. The instrument includes the two Self-image/Clothing image Congruity Measures, Indirect and Direct Measures, the ClothingStyle Preference Measure, Public Self-consciousness Measure, and Demographic Information. T-tests and Pearson correlations confirmed that working women's clothing style preferences are related to their ASC or ISSC states. One-Way Within Analysis-of-Variance showed that certain clothing styles were considered more socially appropriate than others, and they are, in order of preference, sporty, classic, feminine and then dramatic. Significant and positive relationships were also found between the PSC and Ase (and ISSC) state with the outfits considered to be socially appropriate (sporty and classic), but only by the Direct Method (t-tests and Pearson correlations). Comparing the two methods in predicting the hypothesized relationships, the Direct Method performed better than the Indirect Method. Interpretations of the data were made from the perspective of self-image/product-image congruity theory and self-consciousness theory. Overall results provide further empirical support to the self-image congruity theory. / Ph. D.