An average Swede buys 13 kilograms textile material every year, but an average Swede also throws away 8 kilograms every year. Adding a layer of exponential growth, I wonder what will happen with these numbers over the years and more importantly – how will it affect the emotional life of the consumer? Over the years I have developed an interest in the systemic entanglement of fashion – mainly as the urgency to create systemic shifts only has increased.  Fashruption is a happy marriage of the words fashion and disruption, and forms the title for this travelogue, exploring what a fashruption could be. Fashion – that adorns the bodies to showcase the self in the social. A phenomenon in constant dynamic flow of becoming, that thrives on an expiration date. And disruption – that perhaps can release space for a renegotiation on the ways we create identities and consume fashion. But what kind of disruption has the power to challenge current behaviours? This project is divided into two parts; first a problem setting design process focusing on exploring emotional logics (or illogics) that fashion is intertwined with, extracting reflections on relationships between production–consumption–creation of identities–waste. Secondly, a fashruption is suggested to be a large-scale campaign directed towards people with future-orientated momentum. It will present a strategy proposing ideas of designed material that gives space for self-reflection at the same time building knowledge, aiming to construct publics – who has the possibility to renegotiate the terms upon which they live.

Submitted by JOSIANE SANTOS DE OLIVEIRA (josianeso) on 2017-08-01T13:55:12Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Mariana Dourado Castro_.pdf: 3163818 bytes, checksum: 2ff0f1fa27452a774199fd07ab71e354 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-08-01T13:55:13Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Mariana Dourado Castro_.pdf: 3163818 bytes, checksum: 2ff0f1fa27452a774199fd07ab71e354 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-03-14 / Nenhuma / Esta dissertação apresenta uma pesquisa a cerca da negociação no design de moda sobmedida, tendo como objetivo analisar os mecanismos usados pelos designers em momentos de conflitos durante o processo de projeto que envolve a participação do cliente. Para tanto é apresentado referencial teórico em dois capítulos. Onde inicialmente, são discorridos os conceitos de design, aspectos referentes aos processos e modelos de projetos de design, para por fim descrever o processo característico dos projetos de moda sobmedida. Segue-se a abordagem conceitos relativos a conflito e negociação, importância da negociação e meios para a solução de conflitos. A investigação em caráter exploratório com abordagem qualitativa foi realizada por meio a entrevistas semiestruturadas, buscando a visão dos designers, que foram submetidas à Analise de Conteúdo. Após apresentação dos resultados obtidos, são dispostas as discussões ampliando os conhecimentos sobre a compreensão de como designers de moda agem ao enfrentar momentos de conflito junto a seus clientes em projetos exclusivos. A pesquisa contribuiu para a discussão do tema, bem como foi esclarecedora em relação à prática de projeto de moda envolvendo os clientes. / This dissertation presents a research about the negotiation in custom-made fashion design, having as obtectives to analyse the mechanisms used by designers to solve conflicts during the design prosses involving the participation of the client. For this purpose, the theoretical reference is presented in two chapters, where it is discussed the concepts of design, aspects related to processes of the designers and tools for conflict resolution. It was carried out the exploratory research with qualitative approach through semi-structured in-depth interviews, seeking the view of designers who were submitted to the Content Analysis. After the presentation of the results obtained, it is presented the discussions, increasing the knowledge on the understanding of how fashion designers act when facing moments of conflict with their clients in exclusive designs . The research not only contributed for the discussion of the theme but was also illustrative as to the practice of fashion design involving clients.