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No. of bitstreams: 1 RenatoCesarDeAzevedoRibeiro_DISSERT.pdf: 2611645 bytes, checksum: c8f02eb0e8383192110ff23c062debbb (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-03-12 / Coordena??o de Aperfei?oamento de Pessoal de N?vel Superior - CAPES / Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Cient?fico e Tecnol?gico - CNPq / As nanoemuls?es s?o sistemas emulsionados, caracterizados pelo tamanho de got?cula reduzido (50-500nm), que tem como principais caracter?sticas a estabilidade cin?tica e a instabilidade termodin?mica. S?o sistemas promissores na ?rea cosm?tica devido ao seu tamanho de got?cula que lhes atribui diferentes vantagens quando comparados aos sistemas convencionais, dentre outras, maior ?rea de superf?cie e melhor permeabilidade. A Opuntia ficus-indica ? uma planta cultivada no bioma brasileiro da Caatinga de grande import?ncia socioecon?mica para a regi?o. Apresenta em sua composi??o qu?mica carboidratos utilizados pela ind?stria cosm?tica como ativos hidratantes. Assim este estudo teve como objetivo desenvolver, caracterizar, avaliar estabilidade e efic?cia hidratante de nanoemuls?es cosm?ticas aditivadas com extrato vegetal de Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill. A obten??o das nanoemuls?es, foi realizada com metodologia de baixa energia. Foram formuladas diferentes nanoemuls?es variando as propor??es das fases oleosa e aquosa e tensoativos al?m da adi??o de goma xantana (0,5% e 1%) e a incorpora??o do extrato hidroglic?lico de Opuntia ficusindica (L.) Mill nas concentra??es de 1 e 3%. As nanoemuls?es obtidas foram submetidas aos testes de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada. Os par?metros avaliativos da estabilidade acelerada monitorados foram: o aspecto macrosc?pico, determina??o do valor do pH, do tamanho de got?cula, do potencial zeta e o do ?ndice de polidispers?o, durante 60 dias em diferentes temperaturas. As formula??es est?veis foram submetidas ? avalia??o da efic?cia hidratante por meio das metodologias de capacit?ncia e perda de ?gua transepidermal durante 5 horas. As amostras est?veis apresentaram aspecto homog?neo, fluido e colora??o branca, valores de pH dentro da faixa ideal (4,5-6,0) para aplica??o t?pica e tamanho de got?culas abaixo de 200nm caracterizando o sistema como nanoemuls?o. As nanoemuls?es desenvolvidas n?o reduziram a perda de ?gua transepidermal, no entanto aumentaram o conte?do h?drico do estrato c?rneo, destacando-se a nanoemuls?o contendo 0,5% de goma xantana e 1% de extrato hidroglic?lico. Esse trabalho apresenta nanoemuls?es cosm?ticas hidratantes compostas com mat?ria-prima vegetal da Caatinga brasileira com potencial para aplica??o na ?rea cosm?tica. / Nanoemulsions are emulsified systems, characterized for reduced droplet size (50- 500nm), which the main characteristic are kinect stability and thermodynamic instability. These are promising systems on cosmetic area due to their droplet size that provide different advantages when compared to conventional systems, among others, larger surface area and better permeability. The Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill is a plant cultivated on Caatinga Brazilian biome, which has great socioeconomic importance to region. This plant shows carbohydrates utilized for cosmetic industry as moisturizing active in their chemical composition. The aim of study was to develop, characterize, evaluate stability and moisturizing efficacy of cosmetic nanoemulsions added to Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extract. Nanoemulsions preparation was made using a low energy method. Different nanoemulsions were formulated varying the ratio of oil, water and surfactant phases beyond xanthan gum (0.5% e 1%) and Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill hydroglycolic extract addition on 1% and 3%. Obtained nanoemulsions were submitted to preliminary and accelerated stability tests. The evaluated parameters monitored were: macroscopic aspect, pH value, droplet size, zeta potential and polydispersion index, during 60 days on different temperatures. Stable formulations were submitted to moisturizing efficacy assessment by capacitance and transepidermal water loss methodologies during 5 hours. Stable samples were white and showed homogeneous and fluid aspect, pH value was inside ideal range (4,5-6,0) to topical application and droplet size under 200nm characterizing these system as nanoemulsions. Developed nanoemulsions did not decrease transepidermal water loss, however increased the water content on stratum corneum, highlighting the nanoemulsions containing 0.5% of xanthan gum and 1% of hydroglycolic extract. This work presents cosmetic moisturizing nanoemulsions composed to vegetal raw material from Brazilian Caatinga with potential to be used on cosmetic area.