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This research has evaluated the engineering behaviour of the tropical clay soils of Dhaka, Bangladesh. Attempts have been made to show the relationship of mineralogy and fabric with engineering properties. The engineering behaviour has been investigated by comparing the soil properties in a natural and destructured state at the same void ratio. Consolidation behaviour of the soils are discussed, based on oedometer and triaxial tests. Undrained and drained mechanical behaviour have been evaluated from triaxial tests in terms of stress-strain curves, stress paths, bonding effects, critical state conditions, stiffness and yielding behaviour. A framework for the tropical clay soils of Dhaka is presented. The tropical clay soils of Dhaka are intermediate to high plasticity inorganic clay. These soils are mainly composed of illite,. kaolinite, chlorite and some non clay minerals mainly quartz and feldspar. It was observed that these sods showed a random open microfabric of silt and clay. There was also some evidence that aluminosilicates, iron compounds and silica formed bonds between and within the grains. An apparent preconsolidation pressure of 170 kPa to 250 kPa was estimated for the natural soils, which is likely to be due to the bonded structure of the soils. The compressibility of the soil is very low to medium. The consolidation results are consistent with the mineralogy of the soils. It is established that the tropical clay soils of Dhaka are bonded. Bonding has an influence on the development of stress-strain and stiffness of these soils. Under undrained shearing, samples initially showed peak positive values of excess pore water pressure followed by negative values at higher strains due to the tendency of the samples to dilate. No negative pore water pressures were observed at high confining pressures. Only a few samples at low confining pressures reach the critical state at very large strains approximately in excess of 20%. High confining pressure samples may not have reached the critical state due to the formation of distinct shear surfaces. A significant difference between the natural and destructured failure surfaces was observed due to the presence of bonds in the natural soils. Differences in failure type were observed between the natural and destructured soils of three boreholes. It was observed that stiffness values gradually decreased with increasing strain. For the natural soils, two yield points could be identified at low confining pressures below the final yield. It was also observed that bond breakdown would occur in isotropic compression for tests at high confining pressures. At the final yield, the soil looses almost all of its stiffness due to bonding. After final yield, a soil’s behaviour is controlled only by friction. It was observed that three zones of behaviour could be identified for these soils in the stress space.

Fabric defects inspection is a vital step for fabric quality assessment. Many vision-based automatic fabric defect detection methods have been proposed to detect fabric flaws efficiently and accurately. Because the inspection methods are vision-based, image quality is of great importance to the accuracy of detection result. To our knowledge, most of camera lenses have radial distortion. So our goal in this project is to remove the radial distortion and achieve undistorted images. Much research work has been done for 2-D image correction, but the study for 1-D line scan camera image correction is rarely done, although line scan cameras are gaining more and wider applications due to the high resolution and efficiency on 1-D data processing. A novel line scan camera correction method is proposed in this project. We first propose a pattern object with mutually parallel lines and oblique lines to each pair of parallel ones. The purpose of the pattern design is based upon the fact that line scan camera acquires image one line at a time and it's difficult for one scan line to match the "0-D" marked points on pattern. We detect the intersection points between pattern lines and one scan line and calculate their position according to the pattern geometry. As calibrations for 2-D cameras have been greatly achieved, we propose a method to calibrate 1-D camera. A least-square method is applied to solve the pinhole projection equation and estimate the values of camera parameter matrix. Finally we refine the data with maximum-likelihood estimation and get the camera lens distortion coefficients. We re-project the data from the image coordinate to the world coordinate, using the obtained camera matrix and the re-projection error is 0.68 pixel. With the distortion coefficients ready, we correct captured images with an undistortion equation. We introduce a term of unit distance in the discussion part to better assess the proposed method. When testifying the undistortion results, we observe corrected image has almost identical unit distance with standard deviation of 0.29 pixels. Compared to the ideal distortion-free unit distance, the corrected image has only 0.09 pixel off the average, which proves the validity of the proposed method. / text

From the fourteenth century, diaper napery with small geometric patterns was imported from the Low Countries. Towards 1450, the drawloom was adapted in Flanders to weave white linen damasks with figurative patterns. These were expensive and initially covered the tables of the great. During the seventeenth century, new centres of manufacture in Germany provided cheaper figured table linens which were increasingly bought by the 'middling sort'. Dining was always more than the simple provision of sustenance whether for a king publicly 'to glase his glorie' or a merchant privately 'for love or business'. Dining ceremony which responded to these different purposes and to changing concepts of hospitality and civility, generated the furniture of the dining chamber and in turn the supplies of napery. This thesis examines the changing requirements for table linens using courtesy and household books in conjunction with a data set of some one thousand inventories. The patterns of importation by both English and stranger merchants are drawn from the London port books. Responses to the military situation on the continent and customs rates at home are considered, together with the degree to which a fashionable luxury commodity determined the trading strategies of individual merchants. The distribution of table linen is appraised including the dominant role of London linen drapers. This is followed by an evaluation of its changing ownership and the effect of differential rates of inflation of various household goods upon consumer preferences. The results are set within the context of the discussion of conspicuous consumption both by contemporary commentators such as William Harrison and the modem protagonists in the debate on the 'consumer revolution'. By linking pattern descriptions in inventories with surviving linens, the range of damasks sold in England is delineated and the influence of religious and political attitudes upon subject and design explored.

Composites are increasingly used in aerospace applications where performance is the foremost priority of industry. Research on carbon nanotube (CNT)-reinforced polymers conducted in the past decade showed promising results for the improvement of mechanical, thermal and electrical properties of composites. This thesis was undertaken in the context of a larger project, the main goal of which is to develop a complete solution for the manufacturing of carbon fibre-epoxy composites using CNT-reinforced epoxies, referred to as multi-scale composites. This thesis focuses on the thermal aspect of this project under three topics: 1) thermal conductivity of dry carbon fibre fabrics for understanding heat diffusion in composites and similar fabric materials 2) thermal conductivity of CNTreinforced polymers and composites for determining the effect of parameters including CNT addition, and 3) modelling of heat transfer during composite manufacturing for ensuring that their temperature distribution remains controlled. In-plane k rip and through-thickness k rtt thermal conductivity data were measured for two dry carbon fibre fabrics as a function of fibre volume fraction Vf . Results showed that k rip varies linearly with Vf whilst k rtt varies in an exponential recovery trend with Vf . An existing analytical model was used successfully for predicting k rip and simulations developed for predicting k rtt values demonstrated that k rtt depends on the evolution of heat conduction paths in the through-thickness direction as a result of improvements in the fibre contact network. A procedure was developed for manufacturing composites using the RFI process. Thirty-two composites and multi-scale composite plates were manufactured and characterised for investigating the effects of eleven material and manufacturing parameters on fibre volume fraction, porosity, k rip and k rtt . Results showed that the effect of using multi-walled CNT-reinforced epoxy on thermal conductivity of composites is negligible at 0.3% CNT loading. However, this reduced the porosity of the composites significantly. Results also showed that using fabrics with higher surface densities led to a slight increase in k cip . A heat transfer model coupled with cure kinetics was developed for predicting temperature profiles of the laminate during RFI manufacturing. The model was validated experimentally and eleven simulation cases were run for investigating the effects of five material and manufacturing parameters on temperature profiles in the laminate. Results showed that the epoxy resins used in this project combined with the cure cycle recommended by the manufacturer are well-suited for manufacturing laminates with a typical thickness of approximately 5 mm as well as thick laminates of 15 mm to 20 mm.

This study investigated effects of fabric and foam elastic properties on the behavior of load-deformation properties of upholstered furniture cushions. A 3×3×3×2 experiment design experiment was designed to study effects of fabric cover type (less stiff, stiff, and stiffer), foam thicknesses (5 inch, 5.5 inch, and 6 inch), human weight level (105 lb., 140 lb., and 190 lb.), and seat foundation type (panel and spring) on cushion stiffness. Experimental results indicated that the increase of cushion stiffness was significant as fabric cover stiffness, foam thickness, and human weight level increased. There was no significant difference between two types of seat foundation on cushion stiffness.

The research question addressed in this study is "what outerwear fabric types are preferred by consumer segments in each of the major climatic zones in Australia?" objectives are to:1. examine consumer preference for fabric in each of the five major climatic zones in Australia, using fabric attribute levels as the choice criteria, in order to provide information to Stormboy on fabric attributes most preferred by consumers, and the market segments in each zone, based on these fabric attribute preferences; and2. determine any significant differences in fabric preference between the climatic zones so as to indicate to Stormboy whether climate should be taken into consideration in the marketing of wool based fabric.This information on preference for fabric type, will enable Stormboy design wool based fabrics that match the fabric attribute requirement of consumers. The information on market segments will not only provide the fabric attribute requirements but also the possible size of the market.This study will develop a method to monitor consumer trends in fabric preference so that Stormboy can make informed decisions about their design and choice of wool based fabric.This study provides the required consumer information to Stormboy. It illustrates a method of research which can be used in decisions making by producers of products or services where there is heterogeneity in buyers' preferences, for:the development of new products or services;the renewal of a product or service;the positioning of a product or service; andthe ongoing monitoring of consumer preferences and retail compatibility with consumer preferences.As Green and Kreiger (1985) conclude, once preference and segments have been identified companies can react to (or possibly produce to) preference heterogeneity by modifications of their current product/service attributes (including price), distribution, and ++ / advertising/promotion. Companies are motivated to do so if the net payoff from modifying their offerings exceeds what the payoff would be without such modification. Companies may modify its product/marketing mix to include product line addition/deletion decisions as well as the repositioning of current offerings.The study begins by reviewing relevant literature on the function of clothing and fabric type, the position of wool in the apparel market, the effect of climate on choice, the key concepts of consumer behaviour and segmentation as a means of positioning products. The design of the research is summarised in Chapter 3, and the findings from a survey of consumers in five Australian centres are presented in Chapter 4. Chapter 5 discusses the implications of these findings and recommendations made to StormBoy. Conclusions relating to the study design, limitations and future research are addressed in Chapter 6.

So far the theoretical approach to weaving resistance and fabric geometry and the factors affecting it have been made for such weaves as plain, hop-sack and warp and weft faced ribs. In this work theoretical models were adopted to determine the fabric geometry and weaving resistance. Experimental and theoretical findings are in agreement. The trends of the effects on values of weaving resistance of such factors as warp elastic constant, weft tension, warp tension, the coefficient of friction of yarn against. yarn agree with the trends obtained by other workers by showing that weaving resistance increases with these factors. The results-also show that-the fabric geometry depends on warp and weft tension at-the moment of beat-up. Additionally, the change of fabric geometry across the fabric, the effect of two different let-off mechanisms,, Hattersley and WIRA/Poole, and the beaming CO processes on weaving resistance and fabric geometry were investigated. It was found that the fabric width-depends on the dynamics of fabric formation before and at the moment of beat-up.

[Abstract]: The textile industry has a recurrent white speck nep problem in cotton. “White specks” are immature clusters of fibres that are not visible as defects until dyeing, after which they remain white on the surface of a darkly dyed fabric, or appear as non uniform streaks in the fabric. Both results render the fabric unsuitable for commercial fashion fabrics. The white speck potential of cotton is difficult to predict except in extremely immature cottons. Competitive synthetic fibres are uniform in length and strength and never have a maturity problem resulting in dye defects. They are much more predictable in the mill. As a result, cotton faces the risk of being replaced by synthetic fibres. Industry requires a method to predict fabric quality from cotton bale fibre properties to minimize this risk. This research addresses the problem of predicting white specks in dyed cotton fabrics. It is part of a large study, which is supported jointly by US and Australian agencies. The main objective is to predict fabric quality from bale fibre properties given controlled gin and mill processing. Gin and mill processing must be controlled so that field and varietal effects can be seen without the interaction of mechanical processing differences. This results in achieving other objectives, including the provision of baseline data for Australian varieties, ginning effects and comparison of ring and open-end spinning. Initially a reliable method for measuring white specks had to be found. Several systems have been evaluated and are reported here. The systems accuracy was compared using fabrics from the US Extreme Variety Study (EVS), which was grown specifically to have different levels of white specks. The fabrics made from the US (Leading Variety Study 1993 (LVS) and The American Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI) Cotton Variety Processing Trials, 2001) and the Australian (1998 & 1999) variety studies were analysed using AutoRate-2-03, the best of the image analysis systems studied. The final release of AutoRate (February 2003) was developed by Dr. Bugao Xu to measure white specks on dark fabrics in conjunction with this research. This final analysis of these studies results in white speck prediction equations from high-speed fibre measurement systems. This information should be immediately useful to as a tool to measure the effects of field and ginning practices on the levels of white specks without having to carry the research out to finished fabrics. Cotton breeders will be able to use the equations in the development of new varieties with low white speck potential, by eliminating varieties with high white speck potential early on. The research will continue on a much larger scale in the US and hopefully a WSP (White Speck Potential) value will be incorporated into the US Cotton Grading System.

So far the theoretical approach to weaving resistance and fabric geometry and the factors affecting it have been made for such weaves as plain, hop-sack and warp and weft faced ribs. In this work theoretical models were adopted to determine the fabric geometry and weaving resistance. Experimental and theoretical findings are in agreement. The trends of the effects on values of weaving resistance of such factors as warp elastic constant, weft tension, warp tension, the coefficient of friction of yarn against. yarn agree with the trends obtained by other workers by showing that weaving resistance increases with these factors. The results-also show that-the fabric geometry depends on warp and weft tension at-the moment of beat-up. Additionally, the change of fabric geometry across the fabric, the effect of two different let-off mechanisms,, Hattersley and WIRA/Poole, and the beaming CO processes on weaving resistance and fabric geometry were investigated. It was found that the fabric width-depends on the dynamics of fabric formation before and at the moment of beat-up. / Wool Industries Research Association