The purpose of this study was to compare Far Eastern influences on Western women's dress as represented in both a high fashion and mass fashion magazine between 1910 and 1925. Vogue was selected as the high fashion magazine and Ladies Home Journal as the mass fashion magazine. The questions that were addressed were: was there a difference in the influence of the Far East on high fashion styles and mass fashion styles, was there a time lapse between the appearance of fashion styles influenced by the Far East within Vogue and Ladies Home Journal, and was the trickle-down theory applicable when examining Far Eastern influence on high fashion styles and mass fashion styles. The data were collected by conducting a content analysis of both the written and visual material within Vogue and Ladies Home Journal. For each magazine the January, April, July, and October issues were examined, totaling a 128 issues between the years 1910 and 1925. The written examples found within both magazines were placed into three categories; Chinese, Japanese, and Far Eastern/Oriental. Visual examples found were placed into three categories also; Chinese, Japanese, and Combination. An example of Far Eastern influence on written or visual material was based on predetermined guidelines. It was hypothesized that there would be a difference in the frequency of Far Eastern influence seen in high fashion styles as represented in Vogue and mass fashion styles as represented in Ladies Home Journal between 1910 and 1925. The sign test was used to compare the two samples Vogue and Ladies Home Journal and test this hypothesis. It was determined that there was not a significant difference found in either the written or visual material therefore this hypothesis was rejected. The second hypothesis was that there would be a difference in the period of introduction of fashion styles influenced by the Far East between Vogue and Ladies Home Journal. There was no apparent difference between the period of introduction of fashion styles influenced by the Far East in Vogue and Ladies Home Journal between 1910 and 1925 when examining total frequencies of both written and visual material. Some differences were evident when examining categorical breakdowns which led to neither the acceptance or rejection of the hypothesis due to the differing results. / Graduation date: 1994

The sinking of the RMS Titanic has achieved a difficult feat ��� it has remained culturally relevant. The dedication of the general public to understanding Titanic is evident in many avenues of popular and consumer culture. For those individuals who did not get enough of the 1997 Titanic movie, there are numerous Titanic museums and attractions to visit. What interests me as a scholar of historic dress is that the 1997 film is often used as a lens through which the historical events are interpreted and understood. More specifically the character of Rose (from the 1997 Titanic movie) has been translated from a film character to a living history character. Rose has become an integral part of the marketing and exhibiting techniques at some Titanic museum attractions. The purpose of this research was to conduct an introductory exploration of the role of film costume iconography in learning about a historical event and the development of a personal connection with an iconic character in the context of that event. Four permanent Titanic museum attractions were selected as sites of study: museum attractions in Branson, Missouri; Pigeon Forge, Tennessee; Orlando, Florida; and Las Vegas, Nevada. A total of 32 participants were included. Both museum attraction visitors and staff participated in this study; twenty-nine participants were classified as visitors and three participants were classified as staff. Phenomenological and inductive approaches were undertaken. Qualitative (personal phenomenology, phenomenological interviews, and brief participant observation) data collection techniques were employed. Both descriptive and experiential phenomenological and narrative approaches were combined to analyze the resulting data. I utilized a descriptive phenomenological method outlined by Giorgi and Giorgi (2003), and I made modifications to the procedure to fit the unique needs of my data. Data collection occurred in two phases at each location. In phase one, I participated in personal phenomenology during a visit to each museum attraction. In phase two, I collected data with participants. Data collection with visitor participants occurred in three stages: (1) pre-museum attraction visit interview, (2) the participant visited a Titanic museum attraction, and (3) post-museum attraction visit interview. I collected data with each staff participant during one interview. The findings of this study revealed that there are many perspectives from which to tell the story of Titanic and help museum attraction visitors learn the history of the ill-fated ship. I found that Rose did not factor into the decision of the participants to visit a Titanic museum attraction. If a participant learned from or about Rose, she did not factor into the learning or personal meaning-making process until he or she was inside the museum attraction. It was more common for participants to relate to the historical events of Titanic through the movie as a whole, as opposed to the specific character of Rose. The scenario of including a Rose living history interpreter as part of the lived experience of a museum visit elicited a wide range of reactions from participants. It was more common for participants to oppose the presence of a Rose living history interpreter than favor her presence. Several participants reported instances when they drew a spontaneous connection to the movie or were reminded of the movie in their own mind. Several participants used the movie as a foundation to build further historical understanding about Titanic. Some participants used the movie as a source of comparison to explore or confirm the accuracy of the movie. The primary difference in the museum attraction experience for visitors who had not seen the movie was that they encountered difficulty in relating and paying attention to any content or reference to the movie. A general phenomenological structure was formed from the data. As part of this study, I sought to further expand the body of literature that applies visual rhetorical theory and semiotic theory to dress and costume. A discussion of the resulting theoretical implications is included. An outcome of the phenomenological data collection and analysis was a list of recommendations for future practice specifically related to the display of dress and costume in both Titanic museum attractions and museums in general. I conclude with recommendations for future research and a reflective summary. / Graduation date: 2013

Orientador: Claudia Valladão de Mattos / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Filosofia e Ciencias Humanas / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-15T22:57:11Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Sant'Anna_Patricia_D.pdf: 10833946 bytes, checksum: 5b3a103540f32900cfaeb3ba6e833564 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2010 / Resumo: A presente pesquisa tem como objetivo investigar a Coleção Rhodia do Museu de Arte de São Paulo 'Assis Chateaubriand' (MASP). Esta é composta de 79 vestuários que foram produzidos durante a década de sessenta como fruto de uma estratégia de marketing que uniu as manifestações artísticas produzidas àquele tempo com o nascente processo produtivo de moda industrial no Brasil. O estudo centrou-se em três questões principais: (1) compreender o caráter performático das apresentações para as quais estes vestuáriosmoda foram criados; (2) como e quais eram as poéticas tratadas pelos artistas plásticos envolvidos em produção de estampas; e (3) de que maneira e por que estas peças passaram por um processo de musealização em um museu de arte. O estudo almeja avaliar e explicitar as contribuições dessa coleção para a História da Arte e do Design no Brasil, elaborando uma pesquisa que trata de analisar os aspectos plásticos desse vestuário e correlacioná-lo às experiências estéticas de seu período, bem como desenvolver uma breve análise sobre a entrada desses objetos no MASP e as consequências simbólicas para a compreensão de um objeto-vestuário como patrimônio / Abstract: This research aims to investigate the Rhodia Collection Art Museum of Sao Paulo 'Assis Chateaubriand' (MASP). This consists of 79 garments that were produced during the sixties as the result of a marketing strategy that united the art forms produced at that time with the rising production process of fashion industry in Brazil. The study focused on three main issues: (1) understand the performative character of those for whom these garments were created, fashion, (2) how and what were the poetic addressed by artists involved in the production of prints, and ( 3) how and why these parts have undergone a process of cultural units in an art museum. The study aims to assess and explain the contributions of this collection in the history of art and design in Brazil, producing research that is examining aspects of plastic clothing and correlate it the aesthetic experiences of your period and develop a brief analysis on the entry of such objects in the MASP and symbolic consequences for the understanding of an object and clothing and heritage / Doutorado / Historia da Arte / Doutor em História