A presente pesquisa consiste em analisar a solidez da cor dos substratos têxteis à lavagem, perante a utilização de detergentes em pó comerciais, e comparar com a utilização do detergente pó padrão previsto na norma ABNT NBR ISO 105-C06: Têxteis Ensaios de solidez da cor parte C06: Solidez da cor à lavagem doméstica e comercial. Para que as variáveis do substrato têxtil: a) composição; b) preparação para o tingimento; c) processo de tingimento; d) intensidade da cor; e) classe de corante. E as do processo de lavagem: temperaturas não comprometessem a conclusão da pesquisa, contemplou-se o controle de todas elas, de forma que, a única variável foi o tipo de detergente em pó utilizado, para tanto, levou-se em consideração: a) utilizado substratos 100% algodão, 100% poliéster, 100% poliamida e 100% acrílico; b) preparação para garantir a homogeneidade das amostras; c) substratos tintos em cores claras, médias e escuras; d) utilizadas classes de corantes que possuem boa solidez à lavagem; e) lavagem a 40ºC e a 60ºC. Foi utilizado um ambiente integrado contemplando equipamentos de laboratório para preparação, tingimento das amostras e para os ensaios de solidez da cor à lavagem, segundo a norma técnica específica. Os corpos de prova, após o processo de lavagem, foram submetidos à avaliação da alteração da cor, de acordo com a norma ABNT NBR ISO 105-A05: Têxteis Ensaios de solidez da cor parte A05: Avaliação instrumental da alteração da cor para classificação na escala cinza. Os resultados dos ensaios apontaram que somente os substratos 100% algodão e 100% poliamida, cor clara, lavados com detergentes comerciais apresentam resultados divergentes dos lavados com detergente padrão. Já os demais substratos não apresentaram alterações significativas quando comparados aos resultados obtidos na lavagem com o detergente padrão, o que aponta que o tipo de detergente utilizado no ensaio não influencia no resultado / The present research consists in analyzing the fastness of colors in textile substrates to washing, in relation to the use of commercial powder detergents, and compare it with the use of the standard detergent powder according to ABNT NBR ISO 105-C06: Textiles - color fastness of C06: Color fastness to domestic and commercial washing. So that the variables of the textile substrate: a) composition; b) preparation for dyeing; c) dyeing process; d) color intensity; e) dye class. And the of washing process: temperature, did not compromise the conclusion of the research, it was contemplated the control of them all, so that the only variable was the type of detergent powder used, for that, it was taken into consideration: a) used 100% cotton, 100% polyester, 100% polyamide and 100% acrylic substrates, because they are the most consumed fibers in Brazil; b) preparation to guarantee the homogeneity of the samples; c) red substrates in light, medium and dark colors; d) classes of dyes, which have good wash fastness, were used; e) washing at 40 ° C and at 60 ° C. An integrated environment was used, contemplating laboratory equipment for preparation, dyeing of the samples and the tests of color fastness to the wash, according to the specific technical standard. After the washing process, the specimens were submitted to the color change evaluation according to ABNT NBR ISO 105-A05: Textiles - Color fastness tests part A05: Instrumental evaluation of the color changing for Classification on the gray scale. The results of the tests indicated that only the 100% cotton and 100% polyamide substrates light colored washed with commercial detergents showed divergent results from the standard detergent washings. However, on the other substrates, did not present significant alterations when compared to the substrates obtained in washing with standard detergent, which indicates that the type of Detergent used in the test does not influence the result

A presente pesquisa consiste em analisar a solidez da cor dos substratos têxteis à lavagem, perante a utilização de detergentes em pó comerciais, e comparar com a utilização do detergente pó padrão previsto na norma ABNT NBR ISO 105-C06: Têxteis Ensaios de solidez da cor parte C06: Solidez da cor à lavagem doméstica e comercial. Para que as variáveis do substrato têxtil: a) composição; b) preparação para o tingimento; c) processo de tingimento; d) intensidade da cor; e) classe de corante. E as do processo de lavagem: temperaturas não comprometessem a conclusão da pesquisa, contemplou-se o controle de todas elas, de forma que, a única variável foi o tipo de detergente em pó utilizado, para tanto, levou-se em consideração: a) utilizado substratos 100% algodão, 100% poliéster, 100% poliamida e 100% acrílico; b) preparação para garantir a homogeneidade das amostras; c) substratos tintos em cores claras, médias e escuras; d) utilizadas classes de corantes que possuem boa solidez à lavagem; e) lavagem a 40ºC e a 60ºC. Foi utilizado um ambiente integrado contemplando equipamentos de laboratório para preparação, tingimento das amostras e para os ensaios de solidez da cor à lavagem, segundo a norma técnica específica. Os corpos de prova, após o processo de lavagem, foram submetidos à avaliação da alteração da cor, de acordo com a norma ABNT NBR ISO 105-A05: Têxteis Ensaios de solidez da cor parte A05: Avaliação instrumental da alteração da cor para classificação na escala cinza. Os resultados dos ensaios apontaram que somente os substratos 100% algodão e 100% poliamida, cor clara, lavados com detergentes comerciais apresentam resultados divergentes dos lavados com detergente padrão. Já os demais substratos não apresentaram alterações significativas quando comparados aos resultados obtidos na lavagem com o detergente padrão, o que aponta que o tipo de detergente utilizado no ensaio não influencia no resultado / The present research consists in analyzing the fastness of colors in textile substrates to washing, in relation to the use of commercial powder detergents, and compare it with the use of the standard detergent powder according to ABNT NBR ISO 105-C06: Textiles - color fastness of C06: Color fastness to domestic and commercial washing. So that the variables of the textile substrate: a) composition; b) preparation for dyeing; c) dyeing process; d) color intensity; e) dye class. And the of washing process: temperature, did not compromise the conclusion of the research, it was contemplated the control of them all, so that the only variable was the type of detergent powder used, for that, it was taken into consideration: a) used 100% cotton, 100% polyester, 100% polyamide and 100% acrylic substrates, because they are the most consumed fibers in Brazil; b) preparation to guarantee the homogeneity of the samples; c) red substrates in light, medium and dark colors; d) classes of dyes, which have good wash fastness, were used; e) washing at 40 ° C and at 60 ° C. An integrated environment was used, contemplating laboratory equipment for preparation, dyeing of the samples and the tests of color fastness to the wash, according to the specific technical standard. After the washing process, the specimens were submitted to the color change evaluation according to ABNT NBR ISO 105-A05: Textiles - Color fastness tests part A05: Instrumental evaluation of the color changing for Classification on the gray scale. The results of the tests indicated that only the 100% cotton and 100% polyamide substrates light colored washed with commercial detergents showed divergent results from the standard detergent washings. However, on the other substrates, did not present significant alterations when compared to the substrates obtained in washing with standard detergent, which indicates that the type of Detergent used in the test does not influence the result

L'objectif principal de ce travail est l'étude de la résistance au lavage des connections faites par fils électriques développées pour la réalisation de textiles intelligents. Cette étude est basée sur l'utilisation de trois différents fils électriques par la technique de broderie ; deux différents fils métalliques (M-1& M-2) et un fil enduit par de l'argent (S.C). Les échantillons ont été préparés en utilisant une machine industrielle de broderie et en utilisant un point de type 300, plus précisément un point 302 (zigzag) en faisant varié l'intervalle entre deux points successifs (1,2 et 3rnm). Ces échantillons devant pouvoir s'intégrer au sein d'un vêtement, leur« confectionnabilité »a été testés au travers des tests KES (Kawabata Evaluation System) en se concentrant sur les propriétés de flexion et de cisaillement de l'étoffe ainsi « instrumenté » conformément aux recommandations trouvées dans la littérature. Cette étude a été menée sur les échantillons initiaux mais aussi sur les échantillons ayant subis 1, 5 et 10 lavages. En parallèle avec ces caractérisations mécaniques, une étude électrique de ces derniers a été entreprise. Ont été testées, l'impédance de la connexion et aussi sa réponse en fréquence (de 100Hz à 11Mhz). L'analyse des résultats a mis en évidence un comportement en transmission du signal de type «second ordre », avec une évolution de la fréquence propre du filtre ainsi constitué vers les fréquences plus basses. Tous les échantillons ont ensuite été soumis à un lavage. Ces tests ont été répétés après chaque lavage jusqu'au 10ème. A partir des résultats obtenus nous avons pu établir un modèle de comportement et mettre en évidence une complexification du réseau de connexion surtout dans le cas des fils métalliques utilisés. Toutes ces expériences et modèles proposés, nous ont permis de conclure quant au potentiel important de ces types de technique de connexion et de proposer une série d'extension de ces travaux dans le cadre de travaux futur. / Main objective of this work is to study the washing behavior of textile based connections developed by using conductive threads. Two metallic threads (M-l & M-2) and one silver coated thread (S.C) have been used to make samples. The samples have been fabricated with different numbers of stitches per cm by using these conductive threads. After several tests it has been concluded to use the metallic thread in the bobbin of Jock stitch machine or embroidery machine. Embroidery machine has been used to make the samples. The embroidery has been done with zigzag stitch and samples were made. Three different distances between two consecutive stitches have been used that are 1mm, 2mm and 3mm. Samples have been characterized for mechanical (shear & bending) properties, using a KAWABATA testing instrument. Considerable differences have been observed among three types of threads. Graphical representation made it easy to highlight the behavioural aspects of each type. Then at other series of samples have been produced having different stitch densities. These samples then analyzed for electric properties by using mulitmeter, teraohm meter. Samples were also analyzed for signal transmission properties with the help of a frequency generator and an oscilloscope. The attenuation and phase angles were calculated at different frequencies ranging from 100Hz to 11MHz. Very interesting behaviour of the circuits have been observed and discussed in detail. AIL the samples are then subjected to washing and were again tested for all properties (shearing, bending, electric, and signal transmission).The tests have been repeated after each wash and observed the changes. In the final part of thesis all the results have been discussed, reasons have been identified and conclusion has been made.

V diplomové práci je prezentovaná literární rešerše na téma termochromní pigmenty a jejich aplikace v polymerních matricích. Výzkum byl zaměřen na hlubší pochopení termochromního efektu v pigmentech na bázi molekulárních komplexů. Termochromní pigmenty byly aplikovány do polyuretanového textilního zátěru a bylo zjištěno optimální nastavení podmínek zátěru. Textilní zátěry byly podrobeny termickým zkouškám a zároveň byla pozorována jejich stálobarevnost.