自十九世紀末期，中式餐館已成為悉尼食味景觀 ( foodscape) 的一部分。近年中餐廳所提供的菜式，更由以廣東菜為主流，演變為一系列不同的地方風味，如上海菜、四川菜及北京菜等。中菜的全球化不能簡單定義為中國移民將自己的家鄉菜帶到移居地的一個過程。本文旨在闡述移民身份的餐館東主以及廚師怎樣在燒菜和營運餐館的過程中，改變了悉尼的食味景觀。一向以來，移民總是運用他們的民族文化資源謀生，使自己及家人有更佳的生活，而餐館正正為他們提供了適切的場地。本文亦審視中國新移民怎樣通過經營餐館，從而改變了當地西方人對中餐的觀念；即從中國菜即是廣東菜，演變為包括其他中國地方的風味菜。在這演變的過程中，餐館東主和廚師們都要不斷面對一個議題：怎樣與不同類形的顧客對何謂地道中國菜的觀念達至共識。較年輕的餐館東主通常會懂得因應社會上的話題以及利用對悉尼西方人的喜好的認識，為餐館營造時尚的格調來吸引他們。經過訓練的廚師以他們的專業成功移民澳洲，而僱用他們的餐館則以他們的專業作為餐館水準的保證。本文通過闡述上述人士改變悉尼的食味景觀的過程，展示人類學所提供的那種由下而上的角度如何為屬於宏觀層次的食物研究，如餐館東主對食味景觀的影響，作出貢獻。 / Chinese restaurants have been a part of the Sydney foodscape since the late nineteenth century. Recently, Chinese food in Sydney has changed from being Cantonese based to including a range of regional cuisines such as Shanghainese, Sichuanese and Beijing cuisines. The globalisation of Chinese cuisine is not simply the process of Chinese migrants bringing their cuisines with them to a new place. This study sheds light on how migrant restaurant owners and chefs have transformed the Sydney foodscape by cooking in and running their restaurants. Migrants have long used their ethnic resources to make a living and create better lives for themselves and their families. Restaurants are a means for them to achieve these aims. This study also examines how new Chinese migrants run restaurants that have changed notions of Chinese food in Sydney from being mainly based on Cantonese cuisine to including other regional Chinese cuisines. Throughout this process, restaurant owners and chefs have had to negotiate different ideas of authentic Chinese food held by different customers. Younger restaurant owners use their knowledge of public discourse and preferences of Caucasians in Sydney to create stylised spaces to appeal to Caucasian customers. Professionally trained chefs use their training as vehicles for migration and the restaurants that hire them use their professional training to maintain their standards. By illustrating how these individuals have changed the Sydney foodscape, this study shows how anthropology can contribute to food studies by providing a ground up perspective of how individuals such as restaurant owners can have an impact on macro level issues such as changing foodscapes. / Detailed summary in vernacular field only. / Pang, Leo. / Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 2012. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 155-163). / Abstracts also in Chinese. / Abstract --- p.i / 論文摘要 --- p.ii / Acknowledgements --- p.iii / List of Figures --- p.vii / Chapter Chapter 1 --- Introduction --- p.1 / The Globalisation of Chinese Food --- p.4 / Chinese Migration and Restaurants --- p.15 / Methodology --- p.21 / Thesis Organisation --- p.26 / Chapter Chapter 2 --- Chinese Migration and Chinese Restaurants in Sydney: Historical Background --- p.29 / Pre-Gold Rush Migration: The Need for Labour --- p.31 / New Gold Mountain: The Gold Rush Era --- p.35 / The End of the Gold Rush and the Move towards a White Australia --- p.37 / The end of the White Australia Policy and Multiculturalism --- p.43 / Chinese and their Restaurants in Australia --- p.47 / Conclusion --- p.51 / Chapter Chapter 3 --- Changing their Lives and Changing the Foodscape: Chinese Migrants and Their Restaurants in Sydney --- p.54 / Untrained cooks --- p.58 / Professional Chef-Migrants --- p.64 / Younger and More Corporate Owners --- p.72 / Location, Location: Where to Open Restaurants and Aspirations for their Children --- p.75 / Conclusion --- p.80 / Chapter Chapter 4 --- To Compromise or Not To Compromise: Chinese Restaurant Menus in Sydney --- p.85 / Reproducing Chinese Food in Sydney --- p.89 / Local Favourites --- p.91 / Authenticity and Cultural Reproduction --- p.94 / Pleasing the Locals: Modifying Dishes and Adding Dishes to Menus --- p.102 / Conclusion --- p.107 / Chapter Chapter 5 --- Restaurant Chains and the Expansion of Chinese Restaurants in Sydney --- p.112 / From Ethnoburbs to the Suburbs: Chinese Restaurants in New Locations --- p.116 / Corporatisation: Increasing Professionalism --- p.119 / Décor and Presentation: Creating a New Image for Chinese Food --- p.123 / Conclusion --- p.134 / Chapter Chapter 6 --- Conclusion --- p.138 / Negotiating Multiple Authenticities --- p.145 / Making and Staging Authenticity --- p.147 / Changing Tastes and Foodscapes: The Future of Chinese Food in Sydney --- p.150 / Bibliography --- p.155 / Chapter Appendix 1 --- : Restaurants Visited and Interviewed --- p.164 / Chapter Appendix 2 --- : List of Restaurant Owners and Staff Interviewed --- p.166 / Chapter Appendix 3 --- : Glossary --- p.167