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This thesis presents a multi-sited and multi-scalar ethnography of the processes and practices through which producers attempt to designate food as heritage. Grounded in cultural geography, it adopts a cultural economy approach to addressing concerns within agro-food studies by joining in conversation notions of heritage, place-making and time. By underlining the intrinsic relation between articulations of time and constructions of place, this thesis further maps the alternative geographies of food. It engages with three overarching questions, drawing on research conducted within two heritage-based food initiatives in Mexico and Scotland, both linked to the Slow Food movement. These produce, respectively, a traditional sweet called pinole and 'real' bread. The thesis asks: what objectives are pursued through the heritagisation of food whereby various actors strategically coin foods as heritage? How is time articulated in the discourse of heritage food, and how do heritage food networks and producers understand time as a component of food quality? Finally, what senses of place emerge from the various uses of time as a quality in global, translocal and local heritage food discourses? This thesis explores Slow Food's heritage qualification scheme and the ensuing commodification of heritage food, as well as translocal networks, and practices of 'slow' production. Through empirical engagements it argues that the qualification of heritage foods is multifunctional and that various articulations of time enable small-scale producers to engage with a plethora of socio-economic and political issues. Numerous and at times conflicting constructions of place surface from the discourses woven around these two heritage products and problematise identity formation and narratives of the past linked to producers and communities. This thesis concludes that the constructions of place associated with heritage foods depend not only upon the authority and circumstances of actors articulating a heritage discourse, but also on the scale of the dissemination of that discourse, and on the notions and understandings of time associated with heritage and place.

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This dissertation examines politics and poetics of food, memory and ‘home’ among Dominican immigrants in New York City. Through a framework of ‘foodmaps’ it traces cultural histories of seven Dominican families from the gendered perspectives of the cooks in each household. Examining translocal food paths reveal the crucial role of migrant food relations in gendered production of home, place-making and community formations. ‘Migrant seasonings’ (the way immigrants season their foods and lives and the way they are ‘seasoned’ into new social relations) could be understood as contested sites of power negotiations, as strategic reclamation of ‘small measures of autonomy’, sociopolitical action, and historical visibility. Dominican foodmaps respond to culturally and historically specific ‘roots’ and ‘routes’ shared with other Afro-diasporic populations in the Americas. Food-place-memory becomes hence a continuum between geopolitical ‘seasonings’ in sending societies and new racializations in the US. Some findings of this project are: 1) food paid-unpaid labor are critical in negotiations of labor-time, places and social relations within households and in relation to the City and US state; 2) food is a key mediation for the way Dominican migrants learn to navigate and orient themselves in new environments; 3) cooking practices are inseparable from the narrative memories that give them meaning, constituting complex memory-work strategies, communicative and expressive means; 3) Food practices are crucial for the way cooks (especially women) claim value and autonomy for their life projects, produce senses of ‘home’, and re-inscribe through food-narratives their migrant history of struggles in Dominican Republic and the U.S. Basic contributions of this work are: 1) filling gaps in critical ethnographic research on food, gender and migration in Dominican and Caribbean studies; 2) development of a ‘foodmaps’ framework (a method-analytic frame to trace boundaries of ‘home’ through food relations); 3) examining food practices beyond ‘ethnic foodways’ tradition and nostalgia, but instead as critical and traumatic place-memory sites of implicit resistance, and as narrative spaces that re-inscribe working-class histories into hegemonic national narratives; 4) problematizing notions of private/public, personal/collective, memory/history in Afro-Caribbean socio-cultural formations; and 5) ‘native’ ethnography usage of interdisciplinary feminist, collaborative and media-based methodologies. / text

published_or_final_version / Sociology / Master / Master of Philosophy

Thesis (MA)--Stellenbosch University, 2001. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: In this qualitative study the significance of the everyday eating rituals of female farm workers of color in the Western Cape is explored. Eating and its associated activities are understood as embodied, social practices that are meaningful and meaning-making. It aims to address the gap left by mainstream psychology's scant attention to the subject matter. Furthermore, it is an endeavor to steer away from the dualistic path trailed by mainstream psychology's following of traditional western philosophical thought. Assuming a social constructionist approach, six transcribed interviews were analyzed using the grounded theory method. Three main themes are extracted from these texts: knowing, agency and community. The ritual of preparing food involves embodied knowing, which enhances the women's impressions of their capacities as transformative agents. This sense of agency is performed through other acts of eating within relational contexts. The link between eating rituals and notions of community is thus introduced, which opens the space to revisit the positions of women in the sites of the family and society. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: In hierdie kwalitatiewe studie word die sinvolheid van die alledaagse eetritLiele van vroue-plaaswerkers van kleur in die Wes-Kaap verken. Eet en gepaardgaande aktiwiteite word beskou as beliggaamde sosiale praktyke wat betekenisvol en betekenisgewend is. Dit poog om hoofstroom sielkunde se gebrekkige hantering van die onderwerp aan te spreek. Ook is dit 'n poging om weg te stuur van die dualistiese trajek wat hoofstroom sielkunde navolg in die handhawing van die westerse filosofiese tradisie. Ses getranskribeerde onderhoude is ontleed vanuit In sosiaal-konstruksionistiese perspektief. Die analise maak gebruik van die "grounded theory" metode. Drie sleuteltemas is ge'identifiseer: om te weet, agentskap en gemeenskap. Die ritueel van kosmaak behels In beliggaamde vorm van weet wat bydra tot die vroue se gevoel van hul kapasiteit as transformatiewe agente. Die gevoel van agentskap word uitgevoer deur ander eethandelinge binne die konteks van verhoudings. Die skakel tussen eetrituele en idees oor gemeenskap word dus aangevoer, wat die ruimte skep om die posisies van vroue binne gesin en samelewing te herbesin.

自十九世紀末期，中式餐館已成為悉尼食味景觀 ( foodscape) 的一部分。近年中餐廳所提供的菜式，更由以廣東菜為主流，演變為一系列不同的地方風味，如上海菜、四川菜及北京菜等。中菜的全球化不能簡單定義為中國移民將自己的家鄉菜帶到移居地的一個過程。本文旨在闡述移民身份的餐館東主以及廚師怎樣在燒菜和營運餐館的過程中，改變了悉尼的食味景觀。一向以來，移民總是運用他們的民族文化資源謀生，使自己及家人有更佳的生活，而餐館正正為他們提供了適切的場地。本文亦審視中國新移民怎樣通過經營餐館，從而改變了當地西方人對中餐的觀念；即從中國菜即是廣東菜，演變為包括其他中國地方的風味菜。在這演變的過程中，餐館東主和廚師們都要不斷面對一個議題：怎樣與不同類形的顧客對何謂地道中國菜的觀念達至共識。較年輕的餐館東主通常會懂得因應社會上的話題以及利用對悉尼西方人的喜好的認識，為餐館營造時尚的格調來吸引他們。經過訓練的廚師以他們的專業成功移民澳洲，而僱用他們的餐館則以他們的專業作為餐館水準的保證。本文通過闡述上述人士改變悉尼的食味景觀的過程，展示人類學所提供的那種由下而上的角度如何為屬於宏觀層次的食物研究，如餐館東主對食味景觀的影響，作出貢獻。 / Chinese restaurants have been a part of the Sydney foodscape since the late nineteenth century. Recently, Chinese food in Sydney has changed from being Cantonese based to including a range of regional cuisines such as Shanghainese, Sichuanese and Beijing cuisines. The globalisation of Chinese cuisine is not simply the process of Chinese migrants bringing their cuisines with them to a new place. This study sheds light on how migrant restaurant owners and chefs have transformed the Sydney foodscape by cooking in and running their restaurants. Migrants have long used their ethnic resources to make a living and create better lives for themselves and their families. Restaurants are a means for them to achieve these aims. This study also examines how new Chinese migrants run restaurants that have changed notions of Chinese food in Sydney from being mainly based on Cantonese cuisine to including other regional Chinese cuisines. Throughout this process, restaurant owners and chefs have had to negotiate different ideas of authentic Chinese food held by different customers. Younger restaurant owners use their knowledge of public discourse and preferences of Caucasians in Sydney to create stylised spaces to appeal to Caucasian customers. Professionally trained chefs use their training as vehicles for migration and the restaurants that hire them use their professional training to maintain their standards. By illustrating how these individuals have changed the Sydney foodscape, this study shows how anthropology can contribute to food studies by providing a ground up perspective of how individuals such as restaurant owners can have an impact on macro level issues such as changing foodscapes. / Detailed summary in vernacular field only. / Pang, Leo. / Thesis (M.Phil.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 2012. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 155-163). / Abstracts also in Chinese. / Abstract --- p.i / 論文摘要 --- p.ii / Acknowledgements --- p.iii / List of Figures --- p.vii / Chapter Chapter 1 --- Introduction --- p.1 / The Globalisation of Chinese Food --- p.4 / Chinese Migration and Restaurants --- p.15 / Methodology --- p.21 / Thesis Organisation --- p.26 / Chapter Chapter 2 --- Chinese Migration and Chinese Restaurants in Sydney: Historical Background --- p.29 / Pre-Gold Rush Migration: The Need for Labour --- p.31 / New Gold Mountain: The Gold Rush Era --- p.35 / The End of the Gold Rush and the Move towards a White Australia --- p.37 / The end of the White Australia Policy and Multiculturalism --- p.43 / Chinese and their Restaurants in Australia --- p.47 / Conclusion --- p.51 / Chapter Chapter 3 --- Changing their Lives and Changing the Foodscape: Chinese Migrants and Their Restaurants in Sydney --- p.54 / Untrained cooks --- p.58 / Professional Chef-Migrants --- p.64 / Younger and More Corporate Owners --- p.72 / Location, Location: Where to Open Restaurants and Aspirations for their Children --- p.75 / Conclusion --- p.80 / Chapter Chapter 4 --- To Compromise or Not To Compromise: Chinese Restaurant Menus in Sydney --- p.85 / Reproducing Chinese Food in Sydney --- p.89 / Local Favourites --- p.91 / Authenticity and Cultural Reproduction --- p.94 / Pleasing the Locals: Modifying Dishes and Adding Dishes to Menus --- p.102 / Conclusion --- p.107 / Chapter Chapter 5 --- Restaurant Chains and the Expansion of Chinese Restaurants in Sydney --- p.112 / From Ethnoburbs to the Suburbs: Chinese Restaurants in New Locations --- p.116 / Corporatisation: Increasing Professionalism --- p.119 / Décor and Presentation: Creating a New Image for Chinese Food --- p.123 / Conclusion --- p.134 / Chapter Chapter 6 --- Conclusion --- p.138 / Negotiating Multiple Authenticities --- p.145 / Making and Staging Authenticity --- p.147 / Changing Tastes and Foodscapes: The Future of Chinese Food in Sydney --- p.150 / Bibliography --- p.155 / Chapter Appendix 1 --- : Restaurants Visited and Interviewed --- p.164 / Chapter Appendix 2 --- : List of Restaurant Owners and Staff Interviewed --- p.166 / Chapter Appendix 3 --- : Glossary --- p.167

Background： Previous studies indicated that dietary habit or food-purchasing behaviors was associated with socioeconomic status. However, there is no study about potential association between social economic factors (individual and neighborhood levels) and dietary related mortality risks. Objective: 1) To provide population based information on food consumption pattern among Hong Kong people from a diversity of socio-economic background. 2) Investigate the dietary habits and different food related death in Hong Kong people who were 65 or over. 3) Investigate the association of socioeconomic factors and food related death at individual (SES) and neighborhood (SDI) level. Method: The subjects we recruited in a lifestyle and mortality (LIMOR)study forall deceased people aged 65 or older. The LIMOR data was conducted by The University of Hong Kong, School of Public health in the year of 1997. I got access to part of the data for my study from the leading investigator (Dr. Daniel SY Ho). Dietary habits were measured by using semi-quantitative food frequency questions on seven most commonly consumed food groups by Hong Kong residents: vegetables, fruits, soy and dairy products fish, meat and Chinese tea.Mortality in 1998 due to non-accidental causes (ICD9: 001—799) was examined. In my study, mortality due to specific categories of cardio-respiratory causes was regarded as the case and the due to pneumonia was regarded as the control. Binary logistic regression was used for assessment of odds ratio with adjustment for confounders. Result: Regular consumption of fruit was significantly (P<0.01) related to lower mortality due to COPD with adjusted OR =0.77 (95%CI 0.63-0.94) and regular consumption of vegetables was significantly(p<0.05) related to lower mortality due tocolon cancer with adjusted OR =0.58 (95%CI 0. 33-1.00). Milk consumption was significantly(p<0.05) related to higher mortality for both ischemicheart disease (adjusted OR=1.25; 95%CI 1.02-1.51) and COPD (p<0.01 adjusted OR=1.37; 95%CI 1.08-1.73) for people aged over 65. In my study, fish consumption was significantly (p<0.05) associated with lower mortality due to stomach cancer with adjusted OR=0.47 (95%CI 0.30-0.75). Meat consistently showed positive correlation with all f the causes of death, however, none of them were significant. Soy consumption was consistently and non-significantly shown to have a negative association with different causes of death, except COPD. Tea was negatively associated with COPD and hypertension, though none of them were significant. For those who lived in homeowner‘s scheme house, they were more likely (p<0.05) to have hypertension (OR=1.79; 95%CI 1.03-3.13). Also for people who lived in private houses, they were more likely (p<0.05) to died from IHD (OR=1.27; 95%CI 1.09-1.60) and colon cancer (OR=1.27; 95%CI 1.01-1.59) death. People who had primary (OR=1.45; 95%CI 1.12-1.86) and secondary and above education(OR=1.27; 95%CI 1.01-1.59) had a significantly (p<0.05) association with mortality due to colon cancer. People who had low SES and lived in high SDI area were less likely (p<0.05) to die fromischemic heart disease (OR=0.41; 95%CI 0.17-0.98). Conclusion: In Hong Kong, people who had higher education tended to consume more dairy products than lower education group and they were more likely to die from colon cancer. People who lived in private houses had higher consumption of dairy products than those lived in public estate and they were more likely to die from IHD and colon cancer. For people who had high SES, no matter which SDI areas they lived, they tended to have a more frequent consumption of fruit, bean, dairy products and meat than those oflow SES. People who had low SES and lived in high SDI area, as we considered as the poorest people, were less likely to die withischemic heart disease. / published_or_final_version / Public Health / Master / Master of Public Health

Call number: LD2668 .T4 1985 V46 / Master of Science