Submitted by Fabio Sobreira Campos da Costa (fabio.sobreira@ufpe.br) on 2017-05-10T13:26:04Z No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 1232 bytes, checksum: 66e71c371cc565284e70f40736c94386 (MD5) tese.pdf: 3204162 bytes, checksum: 75bfed1c6e534023688809a51190d453 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-05-10T13:26:04Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 1232 bytes, checksum: 66e71c371cc565284e70f40736c94386 (MD5) tese.pdf: 3204162 bytes, checksum: 75bfed1c6e534023688809a51190d453 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-02-24 / CAPES / Esta pesquisa tem como objetivo apresentar a virada gastronômica, momento de transição em que a culinária é substituída pela gastronomia no jornalismo brasileiro. Essa passagem acarreta mudanças de editoria (de feminina para cultura e lazer), gênero (de receita para crítica e reportagem), enfoque (da prática ao discurso), espaço (da casa ao restaurante), protagonista (da cozinheira ao chef) e abordagem (de cotidiana a cultural). Analisamos, pelo viés do discurso, dois marcos dessa virada: a coluna À mesa como convém (1975-1997), no Jornal do Brasil, e a primeira fase do suplemento Comida (1988-1992), na Folha de S.Paulo. O percurso teórico conta com duas balizas: Michel Foucault, para abordar a virada como acontecimento discursivo, e Pierre Bourdieu, para explorar a constituição do jornalismo gastronômico como subcampo do jornalismo. Foi necessário coletar textos anteriores à virada para comparação, o que nos levou a recolher conteúdos publicados nos dois jornais desde 1960. Os resultados apontam que são três os principais temas recorrentes na virada: os critérios da crítica, o início da valorização dos chefs de cozinha e a pedagogia do consumo. Como gênero que busca indicar ou rechaçar restaurantes, a crítica busca orientar o leitor nos momentos de lazer. Os chefs começam a ser valorizados após a chegada dos profissionais franceses ao Brasil. A pedagogia do consumo é o caminho encontrado para buscar ampliar o conhecimento do leitor em uma área ainda nova para ele. / This study aims to present the gastronomical turning point, a transition period in which cooking is replaced by gastronomy in Brazilian journalism. This transformation leads to changes in section (from female to culture and leisure), genre (from recipe to review and report), focus (from practice to discourse), space (from home to restaurant), protagonist (from home cook to chef) and approach (from ordinary to cultural). We analyzed, through a discoursive approach, two landmarks of this moment: the column À mesa como convém (1975-1997), at Jornal do Brasil, and the first version of Comida section (1988-1992), at Folha de S.Paulo. The frame of reference relies on two main authors: Michel Foucault, to explain the turning point as a discursive event, and Pierre Bourdieu, to explore the establishment of food journalism as a journalism subfield. It was necessary to collect texts published before the turning point to compare them, what led us to collect content published in both newspapers since 1960. Results show that there are three main recurring themes in the turning point: the review criteria, the beginning of the acknowledgment of the role of chefs and the pedagogy of consumption. As a genre that intends to guide to restaurants or reject them, reviews try to lead the reader at leisure time. Chefs begin to be known after the arrival of French professionals at Brazil. Pedagogy of consumption is the path found to broaden the reader’s knowledge in a still unknown zone.

La gastronomie peut être considérée comme une attention portée à la dimension esthétique de l’alimentation. Les biens gastronomiques sont donc des biens symboliques dont l’échange sur le marché passe par l’existence de dispositifs de valorisation particuliers. En tant qu’il contribue à orienter les consommateurs sur un marché opaque et à leur indiquer le « bon » produit ou la « bonne » manière de cuisiner, le journalisme gastronomique constitue un dispositif de médiation marchande. À partir notamment d’entretiens, d’observations, d’une enquête quantitative et de statistiques textuelles, cette thèse s’attache à rendre compte de la manière dont se construit un tel dispositif. Dans une perspective diachronique, les premiers chapitres sont consacrés à l’émergence du dispositif au XIXe siècle et à sa construction à l’articulation de différents espaces sociaux (gastronomique, amateur et journalistique). Il apparaît qu’à la fin du XXe siècle, un marché de la presse gastronomique se met en place qui rend le point de vue des titres dépendant de leur positionnement dans la concurrence et de leur modèle économique. Ce sont ensuite les acteurs individuels de la fabrication de l’information journalistique qui sont étudiés. L’analyse des parcours et des compétences des journalistes ainsi que de leurs concurrents potentiels que sont les blogueurs culinaires met en évidence différentes formes d’écriture gastronomique et les types de confiance qui en découlent. Enfin, l’étude du travail concret des journalistes permet de rendre compte de la similitude des contenus médiatiques et l’analyse du parcours de journalistes renommés autorise à saisir leurs modes de différenciation professionnelle. / Gastronomy can be regarded as a particular attention paid to the aesthetic dimension of food. Gastronomic goods are thus symbolic goods and their market exchange needs the existence of specific valuation devices. As a tool that directs consumers in an opaque market and that indicates the “right” product, or the “right” way to cook, food journalism can be considered as a market device. This thesis is based upon a fieldwork including in-depth interviews, observations, statistics and text analysis. It focuses on the way such a device is built. In a diachronic approach, the first chapters deal with the emergence of this device during the 19th century and with its construction at the crossroads of different social spaces (food world, connoisseurs’ world and journalistic world). It appears that at the end of the 20th century, with the setting up of a food magazines’ market, the vision carried by magazines becomes dependent on their position in competition and on their business model. Then, the individual actors and the making of news are studied. The analysis of the trajectories and the skills of journalists and food bloggers who may compete with them put the light on different forms of food writing and different kinds of trust associated with them. Finally, the study of the actual work of food journalists allows to account for the similarity of media content. The analysis of the career paths of renowned food journalists helps to understand the way they manage to differentiate themselves from the others.

The doctoral thesis Gastronomy as a part of life style in the Czech national print media in the period between the wars in Czechoslovak Republic presents the results of eight years long research of food journalism in the Czech press between 1918 and 1938. This period called First Republic is often seen, due the positive sentiment, as a modern, democratic and prosperous state. The reality is a different. This text presents just a little part of picture of life style during First Republic which is gastronomy. That mirrors the economic and social level of the society. This text reflects critically the historical facts. The assumption, that print media pay regularly attention to the gastronomy as an integral part of life is important idea of this research. The content analysis proofs, that food journalism had its own section in the analyzed daily print, although media didn't used this kind of terminology. Five national newspapers (Lidové noviny, Národní politika, České slovo, Právo lidu and Venkov) were issued in the period 1918-1938 and newspapers Rudé právo established 1920 are included in the analysis. The selection of these (media) reflects the whole social-political spectrum of the audience. It could be assumed, that the selected newspapers represent the whole plurality of opinions. The analysis...