Submitted by Automa??o e Estat?stica (sst@bczm.ufrn.br) on 2018-04-02T12:49:23Z No. of bitstreams: 1 PoincyanaSonalyBessaDeHolanda_DISSERT.pdf: 3471213 bytes, checksum: d12fe151d13d0d2fef6e1270f2c6bfbb (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Arlan Eloi Leite Silva (eloihistoriador@yahoo.com.br) on 2018-04-04T15:16:34Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 PoincyanaSonalyBessaDeHolanda_DISSERT.pdf: 3471213 bytes, checksum: d12fe151d13d0d2fef6e1270f2c6bfbb (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-04-04T15:16:34Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 PoincyanaSonalyBessaDeHolanda_DISSERT.pdf: 3471213 bytes, checksum: d12fe151d13d0d2fef6e1270f2c6bfbb (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-11-30 / O Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Cient?fico e Tecnol?gico - CNPq / O estudo proposto abordar? a an?lise mec?nica, morfol?gica e tintorial de fios e tecidos de malha (estrutura Jersey) produzidos com a fibra de meta-aramida. Inicialmente fios fiados de meta-aramida foram caracterizados atrav?s da an?lise de t?tulo, tor??o e tra??o. Em seguida uma estrutura de malha jersey foi desenvolvida em um tear circular com o intuito de realizar o tingimento deste material com diferentes classes de corantes. Devido a grande dificuldade para se tingir a fibra de meta-aramida, foi proposto um pr?-tratamento com o polieletr?lito cloreto de poli (dialil dimetil am?nio) PDDACL. Posteriormente as amostras antes e ap?s funcionaliza??o e tingimento, foram caracterizadas por meio de ensaios mec?nicos (tra??o, alongamento, fric??o, pilling) e f?sico-qu?micos (an?lise termogravim?trica, calorimetria diferencial de varredura, ?ngulo de contato, espectroscopia no Infravermelho com Transformada de Fourier), complementados por microscopia eletr?nica de varredura. Os tingimentos foram realizados com corantes ?cido, disperso e b?sico em temperaturas 110/120/130?C. Sendo a classe do corante ?cido, utilizada para o planejamento experimental 3?, a fim de se otimizar o processo de tingimento para a obten??o de elevados valores de for?a color?stica. Os efeitos qu?micos da funcionaliza??o da meta-aramida com PDDACL contribu?ram para os melhores resultados obtidos nos valores de for?a color?stica, alcan?ando K/S de 80,38 no ponto ?timo ? 50min, 70?C e com uma concentra??o de 5% spm de PDDACL. As propriedades mec?nicas dos substratos tratados com PDDACL e tintos n?o foram alteradas. Todavia, foi observada uma diminui??o na forma??o de pilling, aumento na hidrofobicidade e uma melhor uniformidade do tingimento nas amostras previamente tratadas. A fibra de meta-aramida degradou a temperaturas superiores a 500?C, e quanto as an?lises de FTIR n?o foi poss?vel identificar novas bandas al?m das presentes no espectro obtido da amostra in Natura, mesmo ap?s a funcionaliza??o. Com rela??o a solidez ? lavagem observou-se uma queda nos valores de K/S, de aproximadamente 3 vezes, por?m a amostra funcionalizada manteve valores de for?a color?stica 2,3 vezes superiores aos valores da amostra sem funcionaliza??o. / This study deals with a mechanical, morphological and tinctorial analysis of yarns and fabrics (Jersey Knit) produced with meta-aramid fiber. Initially, meta-aramid yarns were characterized by titration, torsion and tensile analysis. Aiming to dye the yarns with different dyes, a structure of jersey knit has been developed by using a round loom. Due to the difficulty to dye the meta-aramid fiber, a pre-treatment with a polyelectrolyte poly (diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) (PDDACL) has been proposed. Afterwards, the samples have been characterized before and after functionalization and dyeing by mechanical (traction, elongation, friction, pilling) and physical-chemical tests (thermogravimetric analysis, differential scanning calorimetry, contact angle, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy(FTIR)), complemented by scanning electron microscopy. The dyeing process has been performed with different dyestuff, such as acid dyes, reactive and basic at temperatures 110/120/130?C. In order to optimize the dyeing process by obtaining high values of color strength, the acid dye class has been used in the 3? experimental design. The chemical effects of the functionalization of meta-aramid with PDDACL contributed to the best results obtained in the color strength values reaching k/s of 80.38 at an optimum point at 50min, 70?C and with a concentration of 5% spm of PDDACL. The mechanical properties of the substrates treated and dyed with PDDACL were not altered. However, we have been observed a decrease in pilling, increase in hydrophobicity and better uniformity of dyeing. The meta-aramid fiber degraded at temperatures higher than 500 ? C, and for the FTIR analysis has been not possible to identify the presence of new bands besides those present in the spectrum obtained from the in-nature sample, even after functionalization. Regarding wash fastness, we have been observed a decrease in K/S values of approximately 3 times was observed, but the functionalized sample maintained values of Color strength 2-3 times higher than the values of the sample without functionalization.