Submitted by Automa??o e Estat?stica (sst@bczm.ufrn.br) on 2016-03-09T23:24:53Z No. of bitstreams: 1 ChristianeSiqueiraDeAzevedoSa_DISSERT.pdf: 2601824 bytes, checksum: 192560f3b8d14a03aa0da8a4f6dc9924 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Arlan Eloi Leite Silva (eloihistoriador@yahoo.com.br) on 2016-03-11T22:01:19Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 ChristianeSiqueiraDeAzevedoSa_DISSERT.pdf: 2601824 bytes, checksum: 192560f3b8d14a03aa0da8a4f6dc9924 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-03-11T22:01:19Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 ChristianeSiqueiraDeAzevedoSa_DISSERT.pdf: 2601824 bytes, checksum: 192560f3b8d14a03aa0da8a4f6dc9924 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-02-20 / Coordena??o de Aperfei?oamento de Pessoal de N?vel Superior - CAPES / Os materiais t?xteis inteligentes e funcionais t?m sido amplamente desenvolvidos e pesquisados com a finalidade de serem utilizados em v?rias ?reas da ci?ncia e tecnologia. Esses materiais fibrosos necessitam de diferentes propriedades qu?micas e f?sicas para se tornarem materiais multifuncionais. Com o advento da nanotecnologia, as t?cnicas desenvolvidas t?m sido ferramentas essenciais para caracterizar qualitativamente esses novos materiais. Ultimamente a aplica??o de micro e nanomateriais em substratos t?xteis tem sido objeto de muitas pesquisas. Muitos desses nanomateriais n?o tem sido otimizado, e os custos para sua aplica??o e a polui??o ao meio ambiente vem aumentando, pois ainda n?o existe tratamento de efluentes contento esses nanomateriais. As fibras de soja t?m baixa adsor??o de micro e nanoc?psulas termosenss?veis devido a sua incompatibilidade de suas cargas superficiais. No presente trabalho utilizou-se a s?ntese da quitosana para previamente funcionalizar as fibras de soja. A quitosana ? um polieletr?lito natural apresentando alta densidade de cargas positivas, as fibras de soja apresentam cargas negativas bem como, as micro/nanoc?psulas, com isso a quitosana atua como agente cationizador da fibra. Neste caso a quitosana atua como agente auxiliar cationizador para fixar as microc?psulas termosenss?veis no substrato t?xtil. Para a caracteriza??o do polieletr?lito foram feitas as an?lises do tamanho das part?culas, potencial zeta, bem como as an?lises morfol?gicas (MEV e DRX), an?lises das propriedades t?rmicas (TG), an?lise da Calorimetria Explorat?ria Diferencial (DSC), an?lise por Espectroscopia na Regi?o do Infravermelho com Transformada de Fourier (FTIR), colorimetria via espectro de UV-VIS foram simultaneamente realizadas no substrato utilizado. No potencial zeta e na determina??o do tamanho das part?culas foi observada a estabilidade eletrost?tica da quitosana em torno de 31.55mV e 291,0 nm respectivamente. O resultado obtido com (GD) para o material extra?do de camar?o foi de 70%, que de acordo com a literatura pode ser considerada como quitosana. Para otimiza??o do processo de tingimento foi usado um software estat?stico, o Design expert. A funcionaliza??o do substrato t?xtil com 2% de quitosana apresentou o melhor resultado de K/S, sendo o par?metro utilizado para o planejamento experimental juntamente com as vari?veis, tendo demonstrado a melhor resposta de tingimento na faixa de 2,624 de absorb?ncia. Verificou-se tamb?m que a malha de soja tingida com as nano/microc?psulas termosenss?veis apresentou excelente propriedade de solidez a lavagem, que foi observada ap?s 25 lavagens caseiras e valores significativos de K/S. / Intelligent and functional Textile Materials have been widely developed and researched with the purpose of being used in several areas of science and technology. These fibrous materials require different chemical and physical properties to obtain a multifunctional material. With the advent of nanotechnology, the techniques developed, being used as essential tools to characterize these new materials qualitatively. Lately the application of micro and nanomaterials in textile substrates has been the objective of many studies, but many of these nanomaterials have not been optimized for their application, which has resulted in increased costs and environmental pollution, because there is still no satisfactory effluent treatment available for these nanomaterials. Soybean fiber has low adsorption for thermosensitive micro and nanocapsules due to their incompatibility of their surface charges. For this reason, in this work initially chitosan was synthesized to functionalise soybean fibres. Chitosan is a natural polyelectrolyte with a high density of positive charges, these fibres have negative charges as well as the micro/nanoc?psules, for this reason the chitosan acts as auxiliary agent to cationize in order to fix the thermosensitive microcapsules in the textile substrate. Polyelectrolyte was characterized using particle size analyses and the measurement of zeta potential. For the morphological analysis scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and x-Ray Diffraction (XRD) and to study the thermal properties, thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Near Infrared Spectroscopy analysis in the Region of the Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR), colourimetry using UV-VIS spectrum were simultaneously performed on the substrate. From the measurement of zeta potential and in the determination of the particle size, stability of electrostatic chitosan was observed around 31.55mV and 291.0 nm respectively. The result obtained with (GD) for chitosan extracted from shrimp was 70 %, which according to the literature survey can be considered as chitosan. To optimize the dyeing process a statistical software, Design expert was used. The surface functionalisation of textile substrate with 2% chitosan showed the best result of K/S, being the parameter used for the experimental design, in which this showed the best response of dyeing absorbance in the range of 2.624. It was noted that soy knitting dyed with the thermosensitive micro andnanocapsules property showed excellent washing solidity, which was observed after 25 home washes, and significant K/S values.

Submitted by Automa??o e Estat?stica (sst@bczm.ufrn.br) on 2018-04-02T12:49:23Z No. of bitstreams: 1 PoincyanaSonalyBessaDeHolanda_DISSERT.pdf: 3471213 bytes, checksum: d12fe151d13d0d2fef6e1270f2c6bfbb (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Arlan Eloi Leite Silva (eloihistoriador@yahoo.com.br) on 2018-04-04T15:16:34Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 PoincyanaSonalyBessaDeHolanda_DISSERT.pdf: 3471213 bytes, checksum: d12fe151d13d0d2fef6e1270f2c6bfbb (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-04-04T15:16:34Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 PoincyanaSonalyBessaDeHolanda_DISSERT.pdf: 3471213 bytes, checksum: d12fe151d13d0d2fef6e1270f2c6bfbb (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-11-30 / O Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Cient?fico e Tecnol?gico - CNPq / O estudo proposto abordar? a an?lise mec?nica, morfol?gica e tintorial de fios e tecidos de malha (estrutura Jersey) produzidos com a fibra de meta-aramida. Inicialmente fios fiados de meta-aramida foram caracterizados atrav?s da an?lise de t?tulo, tor??o e tra??o. Em seguida uma estrutura de malha jersey foi desenvolvida em um tear circular com o intuito de realizar o tingimento deste material com diferentes classes de corantes. Devido a grande dificuldade para se tingir a fibra de meta-aramida, foi proposto um pr?-tratamento com o polieletr?lito cloreto de poli (dialil dimetil am?nio) PDDACL. Posteriormente as amostras antes e ap?s funcionaliza??o e tingimento, foram caracterizadas por meio de ensaios mec?nicos (tra??o, alongamento, fric??o, pilling) e f?sico-qu?micos (an?lise termogravim?trica, calorimetria diferencial de varredura, ?ngulo de contato, espectroscopia no Infravermelho com Transformada de Fourier), complementados por microscopia eletr?nica de varredura. Os tingimentos foram realizados com corantes ?cido, disperso e b?sico em temperaturas 110/120/130?C. Sendo a classe do corante ?cido, utilizada para o planejamento experimental 3?, a fim de se otimizar o processo de tingimento para a obten??o de elevados valores de for?a color?stica. Os efeitos qu?micos da funcionaliza??o da meta-aramida com PDDACL contribu?ram para os melhores resultados obtidos nos valores de for?a color?stica, alcan?ando K/S de 80,38 no ponto ?timo ? 50min, 70?C e com uma concentra??o de 5% spm de PDDACL. As propriedades mec?nicas dos substratos tratados com PDDACL e tintos n?o foram alteradas. Todavia, foi observada uma diminui??o na forma??o de pilling, aumento na hidrofobicidade e uma melhor uniformidade do tingimento nas amostras previamente tratadas. A fibra de meta-aramida degradou a temperaturas superiores a 500?C, e quanto as an?lises de FTIR n?o foi poss?vel identificar novas bandas al?m das presentes no espectro obtido da amostra in Natura, mesmo ap?s a funcionaliza??o. Com rela??o a solidez ? lavagem observou-se uma queda nos valores de K/S, de aproximadamente 3 vezes, por?m a amostra funcionalizada manteve valores de for?a color?stica 2,3 vezes superiores aos valores da amostra sem funcionaliza??o. / This study deals with a mechanical, morphological and tinctorial analysis of yarns and fabrics (Jersey Knit) produced with meta-aramid fiber. Initially, meta-aramid yarns were characterized by titration, torsion and tensile analysis. Aiming to dye the yarns with different dyes, a structure of jersey knit has been developed by using a round loom. Due to the difficulty to dye the meta-aramid fiber, a pre-treatment with a polyelectrolyte poly (diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) (PDDACL) has been proposed. Afterwards, the samples have been characterized before and after functionalization and dyeing by mechanical (traction, elongation, friction, pilling) and physical-chemical tests (thermogravimetric analysis, differential scanning calorimetry, contact angle, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy(FTIR)), complemented by scanning electron microscopy. The dyeing process has been performed with different dyestuff, such as acid dyes, reactive and basic at temperatures 110/120/130?C. In order to optimize the dyeing process by obtaining high values of color strength, the acid dye class has been used in the 3? experimental design. The chemical effects of the functionalization of meta-aramid with PDDACL contributed to the best results obtained in the color strength values reaching k/s of 80.38 at an optimum point at 50min, 70?C and with a concentration of 5% spm of PDDACL. The mechanical properties of the substrates treated and dyed with PDDACL were not altered. However, we have been observed a decrease in pilling, increase in hydrophobicity and better uniformity of dyeing. The meta-aramid fiber degraded at temperatures higher than 500 ? C, and for the FTIR analysis has been not possible to identify the presence of new bands besides those present in the spectrum obtained from the in-nature sample, even after functionalization. Regarding wash fastness, we have been observed a decrease in K/S values of approximately 3 times was observed, but the functionalized sample maintained values of Color strength 2-3 times higher than the values of the sample without functionalization.