O objetivo desta pesquisa é analisar o ensino de bordados e outros trabalhos em suportes têxteis dentro do sistema educacional desenvolvido a partir da segunda metade do século XIX e início do XX, dando particular atenção ao ensino confessional das escolas da Congregação São José de Chambéry. A presente pesquisa analisa como os trabalhos manuais de agulha possuem uma larga identificação com a mulher. Estes trabalhos ajudaram na construção de uma imagem de feminilidade, participando ativamente na formação da identidade de gênero. O século XIX reconheceu a escola como um espaço privilegiado de difusão dessas tradições femininas. Para as mulheres, a escolaridade surge com a importante missão de formar a esposa, a mãe e, com isso, sedimentar os ideais da nação. Neste projeto educacional, o currículo reserva uma particularidade, o ensino exclusivo de trabalhos de agulha para as escolas do sexo feminino. Acreditamos que este particularismo seja revelador de como os trabalhos de agulha eram vistos como o instrumento perfeito para a construção desta feminilidade, e, nas escolas confessionais, como veículo de inculcação dos valores cristãos reformadores do ultramontanismo. / The objective of this research is to analyse the teaching of embroidery and other works in textile production inside the educational system developed from the second half of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries, directing particular attention to the confessional education of the schools of the Congregation Saint-Joseph of Chambéry. The present research analyses how needle crafts have a wide identificiation with women. These works have helped on the construction of an image of femininity, taking active part on the formation of the gender identity. The 19th century recognized the school as a privileged space for diffusion of these female traditions. To women, scholarity emerges with the important mission of forming the wife, the mother and, with it, found the ideals of the nation. On this educational project, the curriculum reserves one particularity, the exclusive education of needle works to schools of the female sex. We believe this particularity to be revealing proof of how needleworks were seen as the perfect instrument for the constructing of femininity, and, in confessional schools, as an inculcation vehicle for the reformative Christian values of ultramontanism.

O objetivo desta pesquisa é analisar o ensino de bordados e outros trabalhos em suportes têxteis dentro do sistema educacional desenvolvido a partir da segunda metade do século XIX e início do XX, dando particular atenção ao ensino confessional das escolas da Congregação São José de Chambéry. A presente pesquisa analisa como os trabalhos manuais de agulha possuem uma larga identificação com a mulher. Estes trabalhos ajudaram na construção de uma imagem de feminilidade, participando ativamente na formação da identidade de gênero. O século XIX reconheceu a escola como um espaço privilegiado de difusão dessas tradições femininas. Para as mulheres, a escolaridade surge com a importante missão de formar a esposa, a mãe e, com isso, sedimentar os ideais da nação. Neste projeto educacional, o currículo reserva uma particularidade, o ensino exclusivo de trabalhos de agulha para as escolas do sexo feminino. Acreditamos que este particularismo seja revelador de como os trabalhos de agulha eram vistos como o instrumento perfeito para a construção desta feminilidade, e, nas escolas confessionais, como veículo de inculcação dos valores cristãos reformadores do ultramontanismo. / The objective of this research is to analyse the teaching of embroidery and other works in textile production inside the educational system developed from the second half of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries, directing particular attention to the confessional education of the schools of the Congregation Saint-Joseph of Chambéry. The present research analyses how needle crafts have a wide identificiation with women. These works have helped on the construction of an image of femininity, taking active part on the formation of the gender identity. The 19th century recognized the school as a privileged space for diffusion of these female traditions. To women, scholarity emerges with the important mission of forming the wife, the mother and, with it, found the ideals of the nation. On this educational project, the curriculum reserves one particularity, the exclusive education of needle works to schools of the female sex. We believe this particularity to be revealing proof of how needleworks were seen as the perfect instrument for the constructing of femininity, and, in confessional schools, as an inculcation vehicle for the reformative Christian values of ultramontanism.

Needlework has been practiced throughout history, across the nation of Sweden and the world, primarily by women within the home. In recent years a revival of the craft has been seen worldwide, the covid lockdown and an aging population being two factors contributing to this. Historically there’s been a duality to the practice of needlework. On one hand, it’s been a means of oppression, and on the other hand, it's been a weapon of resistance and a source of joy, creativity, and collectivity. It has, throughout history, proven to be a political, social and creative tool and, as argued in this thesis, a spatial tool. The practice of needlework allows for the artisan to travel between different spheres. This thesis sets out to explore the potential of moving between private and public, performing a public domesticity through, for example, knitting.  Needlework is, in its nature, slow. This slowness, the repetitive movements of the hands and the touching of tactile materials emphasizes the process of making and prompts reflections and emotions. This thesis argues that methods of needlework as, for example, layering, mending, joining, ripping, and patching, clearly connect to the architectural design process. These methods emphasize notions of care and maintenance. The thesis uses an interdisciplinary approach to investigate needlework as both the topic of research and the means of spatial exploration and representation, aiming to underpin the relevance of engaging with needlework in the architectural design process, as a way of maintaining the craft and learning new things. Rooms devoted to the practice of needlework haven't appeared in a building plan for many years. The design proposal, presented in the report, aims to explore the possibility of these spaces reappearing within the public sphere. The proposal is placed within the context of Sweden with no specific site intended. Proposing a space of appearance (term coined by Hannah Arendt in her theory of Plurality) actualized through the collective making of the syjunta (sewing circle). Creating a public syrum (sewing room)  where the practice of needlework and its practitioners can appear, connected to ideas of feminist architectural practice to make the everyday visible. The thesis project engages with needlework by seeing it as a collective act of taking and making space.

This thesis addresses needlework between 1920 and 1970 as a window into women's broader experiences, and also asserts it as a valid topic of historical analysis in its own right. Needlecraft was a ubiquitous part of women's lives which has until recently been largely neglected by historians. The growing historiography of needlework has relied heavily on fashion and design history perspectives, focusing on the products of needlework and examples of creative needlewomen. Moving beyond this model, this thesis establishes the importance of process as well as product in studying needlework, revealing the meanings women found in, attached to, and created through the ephemeral moment of making. Searching for the ordinary and typical, it eschews previous preoccupations with creation, affirming re-creation and recreation as more central to amateur needlework. Drawing upon diverse sources including oral history research, objects, Mass Observation archives, and specialist needlework magazines, this thesis examines five key aspects of women's engagement with needlework: definitions of ‘leisure' and ‘work'; motivations of thrift in peacetime and war; emotions; the modern and the traditional and finally, the gendering of needlework. It explores needlework through three central themes of identity, obligation and pleasure. Whilst asserting the validity and importance of needlework as a subject of research in its own right, it also contributes to larger debates within women's history. It sheds light on the chronology and significance of domestic thrift, the meanings of feminised activities, the emotional context of home front life, women's engagement with modern design and concepts of ‘leisure' and ‘work' within women's history.

The thesis topic is "Possibilities of Textile Materials in Practical Activities Subject in Primary School". The theoretical part is focused on the historical origin and evolution of textiles, summary of textile techniques, sorting and its use mainly with pupils in the primary school. It also deals with project based learning and conceptions, objects and competences of a pupil in the primary school in technical education in czech system of Framework Educational Programme for Elementary Education. In the practical part there are designed textile techniques that are processed into the original teaching projects. The functionality of the project was detected by using questionnaires for teachers of primary school. Some of the projects were realized in teaching in the 2nd, 3rd and 4th year of the primary school.