Thesis (M.S.)--University of California, Santa Cruz, 1981. / Typescript. Includes bibliographical references.

Thesis (M.S.)--Naval Postgraduate School, 1977. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 74-75).

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1987. / "January 1987." Includes bibliographical references (p. 376-381).

Thesis (M.S. in Applied Science (Physical Oceanography))--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2005. / Thesis Advisor(s): Timothy P. Stanton. Includes bibliographical references (p. 51). Also available online.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Rhode Island, 2006. / Typescript. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 178-183).

Thesis (D.S.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1985. / "October 1985." Includes bibliographical references (p. 251-255).

A numerical method based on potential flow theory is developed for simulating transient, second-order interactions of ocean waves with large fixed bodies of arbitrary shape in two and three dimensions. The physical problem is represented by a mathematical model composed of a fluid domain bounded by the body surface, the still water surface, the seabed, and a control surface truncating the infinite fluid region. The nonlinear free surface boundary conditions defined on the instantaneous free surface are expanded about the still water level by a Stokes expansion procedure. The flow potential to second order is thereby defined with respect to a time-independent boundary which includes the still water surface, and its solution involves a numerical discretization of an integral equation. With the potential separated into incident and scattered components, the Sommerfeld radiation condition applied to the scattered potential is modified to incorporate a time-dependent celerity to account for the transient and second-order effects. The free surface boundary conditions and the radiation condition are then satisfied to second order by a numerical integration in time. An alternative second-order solution is derived based on a different expansion procedure in which the nonlinear free surface boundary conditions and an integral equation defined on the instantaneous free surface are both expanded by a Taylor series, and terms up to second order are retained. The two approaches give rise to identical first-order problems, but give rise to second-order problems which are apparently different. The discrepancy arises from the second-order integral equation in which additional second-order terms are retained. The physical interpretations and limitations of these terms are explored and their effects on the evaluations of wave forces are assessed. Applications of the present method are made to studies of regular wave diffraction around a fully submerged and a semi-submerged circular cylinder in two dimensions, and around a bottom-mounted surface-piercing circular cylinder in three dimensions. The stability and numerical accuracy of the proposed solution and the treatment of the radiation condition to second order are examined. Comparisons of computed wave forces and runup are made with previous theoretical and experimental results and these indicate favourable agreement. / Applied Science, Faculty of / Civil Engineering, Department of / Graduate

An instrument was developed to measure the static pressure fluctuations within the turbulent flow of the atmospheric boundary layer. This instrument was used to measure some of the properties of pressure fluctuations over a flat boundary and over water waves and has provided the first reliable pressure data within a turbulent boundary layer. For all observations over a flat boundary the root-mean-square pressure produced by the boundary layer turbulence was about 2.6 times the mean stress. The spectra had a power law behaviour with a mean slope of -1.7 for scales above the peak of the vertical velocity spectrum. Pressure fluctuations were approximately spherical in shape, and propagated downstream at a rate equal to the 'local' mean wind. Above the boundary, the large scale pressure fluctuations were approximately in phase with the downstream velocity fluctuations; at small scales there was a large phase difference (≃135°). These phase differences were interpreted to be the result of the large pressure producing scales interacting with the earth's surface, while the small scales were 'free' of the surface. Pressure forces resulted in an energy flux out of the downstream velocity fluctuations of about 0.45 of the total energy source for the turbulence within the band of 0.05 < kz < 20. The pressure term in the net energy budget was found to be about 1/10 of the energy feeding term. Pressure measurements near wind generated waves showed a large spectral hump at the wave frequencies. The amplitude of this hump increased, and its vertical rate of decay decreased, as the mean wind speed increased. The phase difference between pressure and waves during active generation was found to be about 135°, pressure lagging waves. This did not change vertically. / Science, Faculty of / Physics and Astronomy, Department of / Graduate

Studies were made to determine the wave field of long surface gravity waves generated on a shelf by a localized source, such as might occur in tsunami generation. Beth analytical and experimental aspects of the problem are investigated. An analytical model is constructed, which examines the field of small amplitude shallow water waves propagating on a shelf of uniform depth. The shelf region is separated from a deep water region of uniform depth by a linear vertical step. The problem is solved on a rotating coordinate system, although the more precise results are obtained for wave frequencies much greater than the inertial frequency for the case of non-rotation. Both exact solutions and asymptotic solutions in the far-field are found for point source excitation. The case of zero-rotation is investigated for both time-harmonic and impulse excitation. The experimental model examines the field of shallow water waves generated under conditions chosen to simulate the analytical model for the case of non-rotation. The resulting field is composed of cylindrical direct and reflected waves and of a plane lateral wave which arises under conditions of total reflection. Have speeds are found which are in agreement with those predicted by ray theory and geometrical optics. Wave amplitudes of the direct and reflected waves behave as cylindrical waves with frictional damping. The lateral wave amplitude decays in accordance with the -1.5 power of the ray optics pathlength of the lateral wave in the deep water, with damping due to friction. Agreement of theory with observation is overall very good. The results are applied to the problem of tsunami generation on a shelf under simple geometrical conditions. Arrival-times of the various field constituents at various points along the shoreline (the inner edge of the shelf) are calculated and the lead time of the lateral wave arrival over the direct wave is determined. / Science, Faculty of / Earth, Ocean and Atmospheric Sciences, Department of / Unknown

This thesis addresses the general problem of vorticity waves propagating over steeply sloping topography, in the presence of stratification and rotation. From the inviscid unforced long-wave equations for a two-layer fluid on an f-plane, it is shown that, as long as the ratio of the upper to lower layer depths is small, semi-enclosed and enclosed basins can sustain low-frequency, short scale, surface-intensified motions. Simple analytical solutions are to be found only if the upper to lower layer depths ratio is small. Then, we obtain a set of equations which describes a barotropic wave which forces a baroclinic response through topographic coupling. Two bottom profiles are considered: linear and parabolic. Solutions are found with and without the small slope approximation. It is shown that the small slope approximation underestimates all the parameters of low-frequency topographic waves, even when the slope is small. The theory is compared with observations from the Strait of Georgia and with a numerical model of the Saint Lawrence estuary. It is found that, for bathymetric profiles similar to those of the Strait of Georgia (linear) and the Saint Lawrence (parabolic), bur model provides a better fit to the topography, leads to surface-intensified motions and produces cross-channel velocities very similar to those observed in situ. / Science, Faculty of / Earth, Ocean and Atmospheric Sciences, Department of / Graduate