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Two dimensional experimental and numerical modeling of wave transmission and wave-induced current over detached submerged breakwaters has been carried out in this thesis. Two preliminary 3D and a comprehensive series of 2D laboratory experiments have been conducted in the wave basin and 3 m wide wave flume. The preliminary 3D experimental tests qualitatively investigated the flow behavior behind a submerged breakwater and confirmed the validity of the 2D tests. The 2D laboratory tests examined wave breaking, reflection, transmission as well as wave-induced set-up and currents over submerged breakwater/reef structures. Different approaches to experimental data processing are examined in producing reliable application of the 2D laboratory measurements. Sensitivity of wave transmission coefficient, wave-induced set-up and wave-induced discharge over submerged breakwaters to other dimensional and non-dimensional parameters are comprehensively investigated. Previously published analytical/experimental studies for predicting/calculating wave breaking, wave transmission, wave-induced set-up and current are discussed and compared with the present experimental results. Improved equations/models are presented. Numerical modeling of the hydrodynamic effects of wave breaking and flow over a submerged breakwater is investigated using Delft3D. The capability of the Delft3D numerical model to simulate wave height transformation and wave-induced current over submerged breakwaters is provided. Four different approaches using combinations/options within the two main modules of Delft3D (SWAN and FLOW) are tested in the numerical simulations and the results are compared to the laboratory experimental data. Guidance is provided as to the most appropriate application of WAVE/FLOW/ROLLER modules in Delft3D for the reliable prediction of discharge and wave height over different width submerged breakwaters.

Graduation date: 1998 / The figures in the original have a moray pattern. Best scan available.

Graduation date: 1997

Thesis (M.S. in Engineering Acoustics)--Naval Postgraduate School, June 2004. / Thesis advisor(s): Kevin B. Smith. Includes bibliographical references (p. 57-58). Also available online.

Thesis (MScEng)--University of Stellenbosch, 2008. / Bibliography. Also available via the Internet.

Thesis (M.S. in Meteorology and Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, March 2003. / Thesis advisor(s): Wendell A. Nuss, David S. Brown. Includes bibliographical references (p. 103). Also available online.

A field experiment designed to test the hypothesis that infragravity and lower frequency waves influence the patterns of erosion and deposition on the beach foreshore has been carried out. The data show coherent fluctuations in the foreshore sediment level which can be related to low frequency wave motions. The fluctuations have heights of up to 6 cm with typical time scales of 8 to 10 minutes. They can be characterized in two ways: by the progression of the fluctuations up the foreshore slope (landward), and by the decrease in the RNS height of the fluctuations as they progress landward. The velocity of migration also changes as the fluctuations progress landward. Analysis of runup time series obtained by time-lapse photography concurrent with the sediment level measurements reveals long-period waves of undetermined origin at frequencies and phases which strongly suggest that the waves force the original perturbation in sediment level. In order to better understand the characteristics of these sediment level fluctuations, a numerical model of sediment transport on the foreshore has been developed. Gradients in sediment transport define erosional and depositional areas on the foreshore. Runup velocities were modeled and the results were used in the sediment transport model. The model predicts that any perturbation in foreshore elevation will progress landward while decreasing in amplitude and in velocity, thereby matching the field observations. Relationships between beach slope and the profile response clarified by this model are used to explain the initial formation of the perturbations of sediment level. / Graduation date: 1984

Two dimensional experimental and numerical modeling of wave transmission and wave-induced current over detached submerged breakwaters has been carried out in this thesis. Two preliminary 3D and a comprehensive series of 2D laboratory experiments have been conducted in the wave basin and 3 m wide wave flume. The preliminary 3D experimental tests qualitatively investigated the flow behavior behind a submerged breakwater and confirmed the validity of the 2D tests. The 2D laboratory tests examined wave breaking, reflection, transmission as well as wave-induced set-up and currents over submerged breakwater/reef structures. Different approaches to experimental data processing are examined in producing reliable application of the 2D laboratory measurements. Sensitivity of wave transmission coefficient, wave-induced set-up and wave-induced discharge over submerged breakwaters to other dimensional and non-dimensional parameters are comprehensively investigated. Previously published analytical/experimental studies for predicting/calculating wave breaking, wave transmission, wave-induced set-up and current are discussed and compared with the present experimental results. Improved equations/models are presented. Numerical modeling of the hydrodynamic effects of wave breaking and flow over a submerged breakwater is investigated using Delft3D. The capability of the Delft3D numerical model to simulate wave height transformation and wave-induced current over submerged breakwaters is provided. Four different approaches using combinations/options within the two main modules of Delft3D (SWAN and FLOW) are tested in the numerical simulations and the results are compared to the laboratory experimental data. Guidance is provided as to the most appropriate application of WAVE/FLOW/ROLLER modules in Delft3D for the reliable prediction of discharge and wave height over different width submerged breakwaters.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of New South Wales, 2000. / Online copy varies slightly. Also available online.