The production of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) textiles, commonly known as polyester, is an energy and water-intensive process, particularly during the dyeing and finishing stages, leading to significant carbon emissions and wastewater filled with toxic chemicals. Conventional dyeing processes consume large volumes of water and energy, making them environmentally harmful. Innovative methods like hydraulic spray atomizer offer a more sustainable alternative by reducing water and chemical usage, thus minimizing waste and environmental impact. This study explores the hydraulic spray dyeing process parameters, including pre-treatment, dyeing, pre-drying, and fixation steps for three different polyester fabrics. The objective is to achieve resource-efficient dyeing with comparable results to traditional methods, and to compare effectiveness of a combined pre-treatment and dyeing approach with a two-step spray application of pre-treatment and dyeing. Pre-treatment of the polyester fabrics with chemical hydrophilizing agents by spray application showed to improve the hydrophilic character and wetting capacity of three polyester fabrics—P75, P600, and Kibo based on reduced water contact angle measurements and increased vertical wicking rates. A pre-treatment also showed to enhance the K/S values of the three different polyester fabrics. The addition of a pre-drying step showed some indication of reducing disperse dye migration, and enhanced color strength of the Kibo fabrics. Spray dyed samples maintained dyeing quality comparable to padded samples. One-step spray processes demonstrated comparable or improved color properties and durability to fastness to washing and abrasion in comparison to two-step processes. The results demonstrate that the hydraulic spray atomizing system is viable for both dyeing and pre-treatment of polyester fabrics. Furthermore, this lays the groundwork for innovation in wet textile processes of polyester fabrics using this resource-efficient alternative, aiming towards sustainable textile production and dyeing.

This research explored a Digital Laser Dye (DLD) patterning process as an alternative coloration method within a textile design practice context. An interdisciplinary framework employed to carry out the study involved Optical Engineering, Dyeing Chemistry, Textile Design and Industry Interaction through collaboration with the Society of Dyers and Colourists. In doing so, combined creative, scientific and technical methods facilitated design innovation. Standardized polyester (PET) knitted jersey and plain, woven fabrics were modified with CO2 laser technology in order to engineer dye onto the fabric with high-resolution graphics. The work considered the aesthetic possibilities, production opportunities and environmental potential of the process compared to traditional and existing surface design techniques. Laser-dyed patterns were generated by a digital dyeing technique involving CAD, laser technology and dye practices to enable textile coloration and patterning. An understanding of energy density was used to define the tone of a dye in terms of colour depth in relation to the textile. In doing so, a system for calibrating levels of colour against laser energy in order to build a tonal image was found. Central to the investigation was the consideration of the laser beam spot as a dots-per-inch tool, drawing on the principles used in digital printing processes. It was therefore possible to utilise the beam as an image making instrument for modifying textile fibres with controlled laser energy. Qualitative approaches employed enabled data gathering to incorporate verbal and written dialogue based on first-hand interactions. Documented notes encompassed individual thought and expression which facilitated the ability to reflect when engaged in practical activity. As such, tacit knowledge and designerly intuition, which is implicit by nature, informed extended design experiments and the thematic documentation of samples towards a textile design collection. Quantitative measurement and analysis of the outcomes alongside creative exploration aided both a tacit understanding of, and ability to control processing parameters. This enabled repeatability of results parallel to design development and has established the potential to commercially apply the technique. Sportswear and intimate apparel prototypes produced in the study suggest suitable markets for processing polyester garments in this way.

Um tipo de composto têxtil, comumente chamado de membrana têxtil, tem sido empregado, nas últimas décadas, como parte de um sistema arquitetônico usado para a cobertura, fechamento e/ou proteção de espaços públicos e privados em vários países do mundo. O termo membrana está relacionado com o fato de o material permanecer tensionado e separar dois ambientes que se interagem. Essa solução arquitetônica é comumente conhecida como arquitetura têxtil, especialmente quando se trata de estruturas tensionadas; o termo é usado por muitos profissionais em todo mundo, apesar de não existir uma unanimidade de opiniões sobre os conceitos envolvidos na definição do termo e o que ele abrange. Na maior parte dos casos, as obras geradas são muito atraentes, práticas e funcionais, com características, formas e tamanhos diversos, dependendo da necessidade a ser atendida. Quando bem projetadas, integram-se perfeitamente ao ambiente por terem formas orgânicas e passarem uma imagem de leveza, fluidez e modernidade. São dois os tipos de membranas têxteis mais usados: 1) um grupo de membranas cujo tecido estruturante é um tecido de poliéster recoberto em ambos os lados por uma camada de cloreto de polivinila (PVC), e 2) um grupo de membranas feitas com tecidos de vidro recobertos com politetraflúoretileno (PTFE). O foco principal deste trabalho são as membranas de poliéster/PVC usadas para estruturas tensionadas. Os tecidos usados nessa gama estão enquadrados na categoria denominada tecidos técnicos, e são formados por fios compostos por filamentos de poliéster de alta tenacidade de diferentes tipos, gerando vários artigos com características técnicas distintas e, consequentemente, membranas com diversas especificações e comportamentos diferentes na aplicação final.Este estudo traz uma visão geral sobre o assunto no mundo e um panorama mais detalhado para o Brasil, abordando definições, termos usados, materiais, fornecedores, especificações, tipos de produtos e acabamentos, normas, reciclagem e meio ambiente. A beleza e modernidade são apontadas como as principais qualidades desse tipo de cobertura. As expectativas são de crescimento dessa aplicação para os próximos anos. Porém a falta de conhecimento e a complexidade técnica desse tipo de solução é um problema a ser solucionado para que melhores resultados sejam atingidos e ela possa realmente ser considerada uma solução viável e adequada para o país. / The type of textile compound, commonly called textile membrane, has been employed in recent decades, as part of an architectural system used for covering, closing and/or protection of publics and private spaces in many countries around the world. The term membrane is related to the fact that the material remains tensioned and separating two interacting environments. This architectural solution is commonly known as \' textile architecture \', especially when tensile structures are involved; this term is used by many professionals worldwide, although it do not exist a unanimity of opinions regarding the concepts involved in the definition of the term and what it encompasses. In most cases, the structures generated are very attractive, practical and functional, with different characteristics, different shapes and sizes, depending on the requirements to be met. When well designed, they will be seamlessly integrated with the environment by having organic forms, giving a feeling of lightness, fluidity and modernity. The two types of textile membranes commonly used are: 1) a group whose structuring material of the membrane is a polyester fabric coated, on both sides, with a layer of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and 2) a group of membranes made with glass filament fabrics coated with polytetrafluoretilene (PTFE). The focus of this work is the polyester/PVC membranes used for tensile structures. The fabric used in this range is framed within the category named \'technical fabrics\', and are composed by different kinds of high tenacity yarns of polyester filaments, generating several articles with different technical characteristics and consequently, membranes with different specifications and different behaviors in the final application. The study provides an overview of the subject in the world and a panorama slightly more detailed for Brazil, covering definitions, terms, used materials, suppliers, specifications, product types and finishes, recycling and environment issues. The \' beauty \' and \' modernity \' are cited as the main qualities of this type of covering. There are expectations of growing of this application for coming years. But the lack of knowledge and the technical complexity of this kind of solution is a problem to be solved, so that best results can are achieved and it can really be considered a viable and appropriate solution for the country.

Um tipo de composto têxtil, comumente chamado de membrana têxtil, tem sido empregado, nas últimas décadas, como parte de um sistema arquitetônico usado para a cobertura, fechamento e/ou proteção de espaços públicos e privados em vários países do mundo. O termo membrana está relacionado com o fato de o material permanecer tensionado e separar dois ambientes que se interagem. Essa solução arquitetônica é comumente conhecida como arquitetura têxtil, especialmente quando se trata de estruturas tensionadas; o termo é usado por muitos profissionais em todo mundo, apesar de não existir uma unanimidade de opiniões sobre os conceitos envolvidos na definição do termo e o que ele abrange. Na maior parte dos casos, as obras geradas são muito atraentes, práticas e funcionais, com características, formas e tamanhos diversos, dependendo da necessidade a ser atendida. Quando bem projetadas, integram-se perfeitamente ao ambiente por terem formas orgânicas e passarem uma imagem de leveza, fluidez e modernidade. São dois os tipos de membranas têxteis mais usados: 1) um grupo de membranas cujo tecido estruturante é um tecido de poliéster recoberto em ambos os lados por uma camada de cloreto de polivinila (PVC), e 2) um grupo de membranas feitas com tecidos de vidro recobertos com politetraflúoretileno (PTFE). O foco principal deste trabalho são as membranas de poliéster/PVC usadas para estruturas tensionadas. Os tecidos usados nessa gama estão enquadrados na categoria denominada tecidos técnicos, e são formados por fios compostos por filamentos de poliéster de alta tenacidade de diferentes tipos, gerando vários artigos com características técnicas distintas e, consequentemente, membranas com diversas especificações e comportamentos diferentes na aplicação final.Este estudo traz uma visão geral sobre o assunto no mundo e um panorama mais detalhado para o Brasil, abordando definições, termos usados, materiais, fornecedores, especificações, tipos de produtos e acabamentos, normas, reciclagem e meio ambiente. A beleza e modernidade são apontadas como as principais qualidades desse tipo de cobertura. As expectativas são de crescimento dessa aplicação para os próximos anos. Porém a falta de conhecimento e a complexidade técnica desse tipo de solução é um problema a ser solucionado para que melhores resultados sejam atingidos e ela possa realmente ser considerada uma solução viável e adequada para o país. / The type of textile compound, commonly called textile membrane, has been employed in recent decades, as part of an architectural system used for covering, closing and/or protection of publics and private spaces in many countries around the world. The term membrane is related to the fact that the material remains tensioned and separating two interacting environments. This architectural solution is commonly known as \' textile architecture \', especially when tensile structures are involved; this term is used by many professionals worldwide, although it do not exist a unanimity of opinions regarding the concepts involved in the definition of the term and what it encompasses. In most cases, the structures generated are very attractive, practical and functional, with different characteristics, different shapes and sizes, depending on the requirements to be met. When well designed, they will be seamlessly integrated with the environment by having organic forms, giving a feeling of lightness, fluidity and modernity. The two types of textile membranes commonly used are: 1) a group whose structuring material of the membrane is a polyester fabric coated, on both sides, with a layer of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and 2) a group of membranes made with glass filament fabrics coated with polytetrafluoretilene (PTFE). The focus of this work is the polyester/PVC membranes used for tensile structures. The fabric used in this range is framed within the category named \'technical fabrics\', and are composed by different kinds of high tenacity yarns of polyester filaments, generating several articles with different technical characteristics and consequently, membranes with different specifications and different behaviors in the final application. The study provides an overview of the subject in the world and a panorama slightly more detailed for Brazil, covering definitions, terms, used materials, suppliers, specifications, product types and finishes, recycling and environment issues. The \' beauty \' and \' modernity \' are cited as the main qualities of this type of covering. There are expectations of growing of this application for coming years. But the lack of knowledge and the technical complexity of this kind of solution is a problem to be solved, so that best results can are achieved and it can really be considered a viable and appropriate solution for the country.