O objetivo deste estudo foi caracterizar a dinâmica das ondas de areia presentes no interior da Baía de São Marcos em São Luís, estado do Maranhão, utilizando dados de campanhas de batimetria bimestral e granulometria, para determinar a geomorfologia de fundo, além de séries temporais eulerianas de velocidade e variação da maré dos anos de 2011 e 2012 para validar um modelo hidrodinâmico local. O posicionamento horizontal e vertical nos conjuntos de dados batimétricos, digitalizados em transectos longitudinais, forneceu corredores de transporte que concordaram com os obtidos por meio do modelo numérico. Foram registradas ondas de areia com comprimento e altura superiores a 342 m e 6 m, respectivamente. A migração horizontal chegou a 1,8 m/dia e as intensidades de corrente a 1.84 m/s sobre o campo de ondas de areia e 2.58 m/s nos canais adjacentes. O Cabeço do Mearim e a Ilha do Medo são os principais responsáveis pela divisão dos regimes hidrodinâmicos locais forçados pela maré, os quais controlam os padrões morfológicos e migratórios das feições de fundo. Os mapas residuais de velocidade aliados aos coeficientes de dominância de maré calculados demonstraram que as principais forçantes do sistema são intensas nos canais e ao sul da Ilha do Medo e menos pronunciadas nas planícies rasas do sistema estuarino. As técnicas utilizadas neste estudo possibilitaram o estabelecimento de um modelo conceitual de corredores de transporte que rege o equilíbrio dinâmico do sistema local. Esses corredores são formados principalmente pelo canal principal da Baía de São Marcos localizado na porção oeste das feições submersas, predominando o transporte das correntes de vazante, pelo Canal do Boqueirão no qual predominam as correntes de maré enchente e pelo canal transversal situado a leste das ondas de areia, responsável por fluxos principalmente de maré enchente que podem transportar sedimentos ou energia para o sistema de canais principais. Este modelo forneceu conhecimento basal para o planejamento de atividades de uso, exploração e conservação dos sedimentos na Baía de São Marcos / The aim of this study was to characterize sand wave dynamics in São Marcos Bay (Maranhão state). Using data obtained from consecutive bathymetry campaigns, bottom sediment distribution, tide level and stationary current meters time series at this site from 2011-2012 years, bed morphology evolution was determined and a process-based hydrodynamic model was validated. Registering consecutive sand wave positioning in longitudinal transects provided bed features migration, generating transport pathways that agreed with model results. Sand waves observed were up to 6 m high and 342 m long and migrate up to 1.8 m/day, under depth-averaged current conditions up to 1.84 m/s above the sand wave field and 2.58 m/s in the adjacent channels. Cabeço do Mearim and Medo Island represents the features responsible for separate both tidal hydrodynamic regimes that control bottom migration and morphologic patterns. Residual current distribution and tide dominance coefficients showed that the controlling hydrodynamic forces of the system are more intense in the main channels and southward Medo Island, while weaken as depth reduces eastward. The methods used in this study provide a reliable conceptual model of transport pathways that control the local dynamic equilibrium, composed by the main channel of Sao Marcos Bay, where ebb dominance occurs, by the Boqueirão Channel strongly dominated by flood currents and by the transversal channel located eastward the bottom features, also flood dominated and responsible for transport sediment and energy to the sand wave field. This approach provided the bases for planning activities regard use, conservation and exploitation of sediments in São Marcos Bay

学位授与大学：京都大学 ; 取得学位: 博士(工学) ; 学位授与年月日: 2007-09-25 ; 学位の種類: 新制・課程博士 ; 学位記番号: 工博第2844号 ; 請求記号: 新制/工/1418 ; 整理番号: 25529 / An atmosphere-ocean coupled model was developed based on a preexisting non-hydrostatic mesoscale atmosphere model (MM5) and non-hydrostatic ocean circulation model (MITgcm). This model together with a pre-established wind-wave-currents coupled model was applied to a number of regional environmental issue and disaster events to reproduce the present status and past situations and to help our understanding of the physical processes of such problems in terms of atmosphere-ocean interactions including the sea surface waves in the interface between air and sea. The disaster events and environmental issue studied in this thesis are follows. 1) Storm surge induced by Hurricane Katrina in the Gulf coast of USA in 2005. 2) Extreme high waves at Hara coast, Suruga Bay in Japan caused by the super-Typhoon TIP in 1979. 3) Positive and negative feedbacks in typhoon-ocean interaction in case of Typhoon ETAU in 2003. 4) Thermal water circulation in a dam-made lake (Yachiyo Lake) in Hiroshima, Japan concerning on the hydrodynamics in the lake. 5) Reanalysis of the past 47 storms that caused disasters in West Kyushu, Japan. 6) Wave overtopping simulation over through the submerged offshore breakwater and enhance seawall. The Regional Environment and Disaster Prevention Simulator is proposed and constructed based on the regional atmosphere-ocean coupled model in this thesis of which the objective was improvement of the numerical assessment method to disaster events and environment problems by introducing he coupling effects between different systems. / Kyoto University (京都大学) / 0048 / 新制・課程博士 / 博士(工学) / 甲第13373号 / 工博第2844号 / 新制||工||1418(附属図書館) / 25529 / UT51-2007-Q774 / 京都大学大学院工学研究科社会基盤工学専攻 / (主査)教授 関口 秀雄, 教授 間瀬 肇, 教授 中北 英一 / 学位規則第4条第1項該当

O objetivo deste estudo foi caracterizar a dinâmica das ondas de areia presentes no interior da Baía de São Marcos em São Luís, estado do Maranhão, utilizando dados de campanhas de batimetria bimestral e granulometria, para determinar a geomorfologia de fundo, além de séries temporais eulerianas de velocidade e variação da maré dos anos de 2011 e 2012 para validar um modelo hidrodinâmico local. O posicionamento horizontal e vertical nos conjuntos de dados batimétricos, digitalizados em transectos longitudinais, forneceu corredores de transporte que concordaram com os obtidos por meio do modelo numérico. Foram registradas ondas de areia com comprimento e altura superiores a 342 m e 6 m, respectivamente. A migração horizontal chegou a 1,8 m/dia e as intensidades de corrente a 1.84 m/s sobre o campo de ondas de areia e 2.58 m/s nos canais adjacentes. O Cabeço do Mearim e a Ilha do Medo são os principais responsáveis pela divisão dos regimes hidrodinâmicos locais forçados pela maré, os quais controlam os padrões morfológicos e migratórios das feições de fundo. Os mapas residuais de velocidade aliados aos coeficientes de dominância de maré calculados demonstraram que as principais forçantes do sistema são intensas nos canais e ao sul da Ilha do Medo e menos pronunciadas nas planícies rasas do sistema estuarino. As técnicas utilizadas neste estudo possibilitaram o estabelecimento de um modelo conceitual de corredores de transporte que rege o equilíbrio dinâmico do sistema local. Esses corredores são formados principalmente pelo canal principal da Baía de São Marcos localizado na porção oeste das feições submersas, predominando o transporte das correntes de vazante, pelo Canal do Boqueirão no qual predominam as correntes de maré enchente e pelo canal transversal situado a leste das ondas de areia, responsável por fluxos principalmente de maré enchente que podem transportar sedimentos ou energia para o sistema de canais principais. Este modelo forneceu conhecimento basal para o planejamento de atividades de uso, exploração e conservação dos sedimentos na Baía de São Marcos / The aim of this study was to characterize sand wave dynamics in São Marcos Bay (Maranhão state). Using data obtained from consecutive bathymetry campaigns, bottom sediment distribution, tide level and stationary current meters time series at this site from 2011-2012 years, bed morphology evolution was determined and a process-based hydrodynamic model was validated. Registering consecutive sand wave positioning in longitudinal transects provided bed features migration, generating transport pathways that agreed with model results. Sand waves observed were up to 6 m high and 342 m long and migrate up to 1.8 m/day, under depth-averaged current conditions up to 1.84 m/s above the sand wave field and 2.58 m/s in the adjacent channels. Cabeço do Mearim and Medo Island represents the features responsible for separate both tidal hydrodynamic regimes that control bottom migration and morphologic patterns. Residual current distribution and tide dominance coefficients showed that the controlling hydrodynamic forces of the system are more intense in the main channels and southward Medo Island, while weaken as depth reduces eastward. The methods used in this study provide a reliable conceptual model of transport pathways that control the local dynamic equilibrium, composed by the main channel of Sao Marcos Bay, where ebb dominance occurs, by the Boqueirão Channel strongly dominated by flood currents and by the transversal channel located eastward the bottom features, also flood dominated and responsible for transport sediment and energy to the sand wave field. This approach provided the bases for planning activities regard use, conservation and exploitation of sediments in São Marcos Bay