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L'institution judiciaire en général et le procès civil en particulier ne sont pas épargnés par le mouvement de la dématérialisation qui touche de nombreux secteurs du service public. En effet, l'introduction des TIC dans le procès civil a été motivée principalement par la quête de la célérité et de l'efficacité de ce dernier. Toutefois, il faudrait contrebalancer ces deux objectifs recherchés avec l'exigence du respect des garanties procédurales et institutionnelles des justiciables. Car, la recherche d'accélération du temps judiciaire et la réalisation d'économie de moyens alloués à ce service ne doivent pas l'emporter sur la qualité des jugements civils. La conciliation de ces trois exigences se révèle comme l'obstacle majeur qui freine le processus d'intégration des TIC dans le procès civil. Néanmoins, tout est question d'équilibre : la technique informatique ne doit pas l'emporter sur la technique juridique et sur l'esprit même de la justice. L'essentiel, c'est que authenticité et modernité riment ensemble. / The justice system in general and the civil suit in particular not been spared by the movement of dematerialisation wich has affected many areas of public service. In fact, the introduction of ICT in the civil suit was fueled primarily by the quest for speed and efficiency. However, the need arose to balance these two objectives with the requirement of compliance with procedural and institutional guarantees for a fair trial. This is because the quest to accelerate judicial time and save resources allocated to this service sould not undermine the quality of civil judgments. Reconciling these three requirements is revealed as the major obstacle hindering the process of ICT integration in civil suits. Nevertheless, it is all about balance: computer technology should not prevail over the legal system and the spirit of justice. It is essential the authenticity and modernity go hand in hand.

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The aim of this project was to investigate the use of textile structures as muscles to assist people with muscular deficiency or paralysis. Due to the average life expectancy continuing to increase, support for those needing assistance to move unaided is also increasing. The purpose of this project was to try to help a patient who would normally need assistance, to move their arm unaided. It could also help with rehabilitation of muscular injuries and increasing strength and reducing muscular fatigue of manual workers. The approach considered was to develop an extra corporal device for the upper limbs, providing the main required motions. Most devices currently available use motors and gearboxes to assist in limb movement. This study investigated a way of mimicking the contraction of biological skeletal muscles to create a motion that is as human as possible with a soft, flexible and lightweight construction. Electroactive polymers (EAPs) and pneumatic artificial muscles (PAMs) were investigated. It became clear that at present, the EAPs were unable to create the forces and speed of contraction required for this application. The use of pneumatics to create artificial muscles was developed upon. PAMs, like the McKibben muscle and the pleated pneumatic muscle mimic the natural contraction of skeletal muscle. These current PAMs were used as a basis to develop a new type of pneumatic artificial muscle in this project. A 90 mm ball-like structure was developed, produced from an air impermeable rubber coated cotton fabric. Joining three oval panels together created a 3-D spherical shape. Three of these structures were linked together, and when inflated, created an acceptable level of contraction and force. This method of producing artificial muscles created a soft, lightweight and flexible actuator with scope for different arrangements, sizes and positions of the muscle structure. The contraction process was mathematically modelled. This calculated the predicted rate and level of contraction of a 2-D muscle structure. These mathematical findings were able to be compared to the practical results, and produced similar contraction characteristics. The muscle structures were incorporated into a garment to form a type of muscle suit which could be worn to assist movement. This garment has an aluminium frame to protect the wearer's bones from stresses from the contracting muscles. This study has shown that the muscle suit developed can create movement for wearers that would normally need assistance, and also reduce muscle fatigue, which would be useful for manual workers. This is incorporated into a functional and wearable garment, which is easy to dress and more lightweight and aesthetically pleasing than current muscle suits.

(EN) The aim of this thesis is to analyse a decision of the Court of Justice of the European Union ("ESD") in the case of Allianz SpA (formerly Riunione Adriatica Di Sicurta SpA) and Others v West Tankers Inc. ("West Tankers"), in which the Court ruled that an anti- suit injunction, issued to enforce an arbitration agreement, is incompatible with the Council Regulation (EC) No 44/2001 on jurisdiction and the recognition and enforcement of judgments in civil and commercial matters ("Brussels I Regulation"). The thesis is divided into eight chapters, whereas as to the methodology, a case study approach is applied. The first chapter is an introduction to the legal context of the dispute, with determination of the relevant law and legal concepts. The most important legal concept is the power to grant an anti-suit injunction, which could be defined as an order preventing a party from beginning or continuing to commence legal proceedings in another forum. The second chapter deals with the use of anti-suit injunctions by the English courts prior West Tankers decision with a special emphasis on its compatibility with the Brussels I Regulation. Also, we will introduce the abusive delaying tactics of "torpedo actions", as well as the problems caused by the interpretation of the arbitration exception...

Background   By the beginning of the 20th century, the men’s suit entered the menswear market as one the most important fashion garments everdevised. At the same time, fashion became mainly a female engagement, resulting in an under representation of men’s fashion through out the past decade. Relating to the textile and apparel industry, fashion forecasting has become an increasingly important business activity. But the nature of fashion forecasting and the historical neglecting of the men’s suit has created complications when performing this activity. Purpose   The purpose of this thesis is to examine the men’s suit and its development from the given starting point in the 20th century until today, in order to derive a fashion forecasting model suggesting its development by 2029. Design/methodology/approach   This thesis uses an abductive research approach and qualitative multi-methods to answer the research questions. The usage of an intermediate research project answers the first research question. The second research question is answered through the synthesis ofa literature study and semi-structured interviews. The third research question is answered through the derived forecasting model, accomplished through theory matching. Findings   By carrying out a historical investigation of the men’s suit, and then applying this to the derived forecasting model, the men’s suit is expected to be found in both single- and double-breast styles. The suit will have classical features represented through the length, canvas structure, and shoulder construction. Originality/value   This paper carries out a historical investigation of the men’s suit never been done before. It introduces an evaluation framework to categorise and classify the men’s suit, as well as a forecasting model followed by an actual fashion forecast.

Troublée par l’avènement inopiné de la mode au musée, nous avons souhaité cerner puis examiner les fondamentaux du « musée de la mode », que nous considérons comme un concept historique. Depuis les années 1990, il s’impose en effet dans la sphère culturelle comme un nouveau modèle de musée. Nous nous questionnons donc sur le phénomène qui sous-tend cette effervescence. S’il fait son apparition dans les années 1980, il est issu d’une forme muséale plus ancienne que l’on désignait alors par « musée du costume ». Nous entendons ainsi mener une enquête sur le « musée de la mode » par la saisie de l’essence du phénomène muséal observable. Pour ce faire, il nous faut nous inscrire dans un temps long du patrimoine, afin de montrer les conditions d’émergence et la trajectoire des collections vestimentaires dans le paysage muséal et le développement des différentes formes muséales, du premier musée du costume au musée de la mode d’aujourd’hui. Alors que, jusqu’à présent, les chercheurs ont déterminé un basculement entre la dress museology et la fashion museology autour de 1970, nous avons distingué quatre régimes d’investissement patrimonial des collections vestimentaires, aboutissant à l’ère du « musée des modes vestimentaires ». Notre thèse a pour objectif de mettre en exergue la trajectoire du vêtement au musée, et de détailler les caractéristiques de la muséologie en devenir : décloisonnement des collections, expositions transculturelles, discours transversal et interdisciplinaire, et pour finir, muséographie anthropologique. / Curious about the unexplained advent of the fashion museum, this study originated with the task of identifying and examining the basic characteristics of the “fashion museum,” which it considers to be a historically specific construct. Since the 1990’s, the fashion museum has asserted itself in the cultural world as a new model of museum. This study inquires into the phenomena that undergirded this flourishing. If this institution first appeared in the 1980’s, it originated from an older model known as the “costume museum”. Thus I intend to undertake a study on the “fashion museum” using the observable phenomenon of the museum itself. To do so, this project inscribes the “fashion museum” in a long patrimonial tradition, demonstrating the conditions of its emergence and the trajectory that dress collections followed within the broader museum landscape, including the development of other forms of museums, from the first “costume museum” to the fashion museum of today. While, until now, researchers have determined a turning point between the dress and the fashion museology in the 1970’s, I distinguish four regimes of heritage investment in clothing collection, result in edge of a museology of the vestimentary patrimony. This study aims to reveal the trajectory that dress collections followed within the broader museum landscape, and to explain the characteristic of a museology in the making: decompartmentalization of collections, transcultural exhibitions, tranversal and interdisciplinary discourse, and anthropological museography.

Essa pesquisa constrói uma reflexão sobre o trabalho de El Teatro Campesino, grupo fundado em 1965 na Califórnia com o objetivo de criar peças de agit-prop, chamadas de actos, que propunham discutir temas pertinentes à sociedade camponesa chicana. Dois actos, formulados a partir de criações coletivas, são analisados nessa tese: Quinta Temporada cujo tema central são as greves organizadas na década de 1960 pelo sindicato United Farm Workers (Trabalhadores Agrários Unidos), liderado por César Chávez, militante de enorme importância ao Mexican American Civil Rights Movement (Movimento pelos Direitos Civis dos Mexicano-Americanos) e Vietnam Campesino, marco do teatro militante norte-americano, que discute temas não só relativos à Guerra do Vietnã, mas também a inúmeras outras questões caras à comunidade chicana. Além dos actos, nossa pesquisa também analisa o musical Zoot Suit, de autoria individual de Luis Valdez, fundador do Teatro Campesino, e que alcançou grande projeção ao se tornar a primeira peça de temática chicana escrita por um chicano a ser produzida na Broadway. / This research analyses the work of El Teatro Campesino, a theater group founded in 1965 in California, in order to perform agit-prop plays, called actos. The actos aimed at discussing themes which were relevant to rural chicano society. Two collectivelly created actos are analyzed in this thesis: Quinta Temporada in which the central theme is the strikes organized in the 1960s by the United Farm Workers, conducted by César Chávez, a militant of great importance to the Mexican American Civil Rights Movement and Vietnam Campesino, a milestone of the North-American political theater, which discusses themes related not only to the Vietnam War, but also many other pertinent issues to chicano society. Besides the actos, our research also analyses the musical Zoot Suit, written by Luis Valdez, founder of the Teatro Campesino, which became widely known as the first play concerning chicano themes written by a chicano to be produced on Broadway.

Submitted by Livia Mello (liviacmello@yahoo.com.br) on 2016-09-28T13:53:41Z No. of bitstreams: 1 TeseCSNC.pdf: 3579352 bytes, checksum: 2cb5a49e01d350edcd02d649fed51267 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Marina Freitas (marinapf@ufscar.br) on 2016-10-04T19:02:06Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 TeseCSNC.pdf: 3579352 bytes, checksum: 2cb5a49e01d350edcd02d649fed51267 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Marina Freitas (marinapf@ufscar.br) on 2016-10-04T19:02:14Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 TeseCSNC.pdf: 3579352 bytes, checksum: 2cb5a49e01d350edcd02d649fed51267 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-10-04T19:02:23Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 TeseCSNC.pdf: 3579352 bytes, checksum: 2cb5a49e01d350edcd02d649fed51267 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-07-30 / Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP) / The general objective is to investigate the manipulation of extrinsic factors on sitting postural control in children with Cerebral Palsy (CP). For better understanding we divided this thesis in 4 studies. Study 1 aims to systematically review studies evaluating sitting postural control in children with CP. We intend to describe the characteristics of sitting postural control, the methodological procedures used for analysis, and factors that influence it, and the main results of intervention protocols for sitting postural control in children with CP. In context of extrinsic factors studied, little is known about how children with CP use and integrate sensory information into motor activity in order to maintain postural orientation and stability. This gap in the literature guides the study 2. For that, in the Study 2, we investigate and compare sitting postural control under challenging visual and somatosensory inputs between typical children and children with CP with a Gross Motor Functional Classification System (GMFCS) levels I-IV. For that, 35 typical children and 36 children with spastic CP with GMFCS levels I (10), II (8), III (10) e IV (8) were recruited. Eletrocmyoghapy electrodes were placed billaterally properly on thoracal extensors, lumbar extensors and rectus abdominais. The children were asked to sit without back and foot support on a force plate (100Hz) placed on a bench. Participants’ hands are on their laps, and they fixated on a target located 1-m in front of them at eye level. To challenge somatosensory inputs, children sat on 30Kg/m3 (50x50cm) foam that was placed atop the force plate. Four randomized quiet sitting conditions namely eyes opened (EA), eyes closed (EF), foam surface and eyes opened (IA) and foam surface and eyes closed (IF). Each condition was maintained for 20 seconds for three times. There was a rest period of 30-50 seconds between each trial. The measures from force plate chosen were range displacement or amplitude for anterior-posterior (AP) and medial-lateral (ML) directions, AP and ML velocity and area of Center of Pressure (CoP). EMG variables were muscles activitiy (root-mean square - RMS) and muscle symmetry. When exposed to changes on somatosensory information added to eyes closed, children with CP GMFCS level III and IV present increased extensor muscles activity and musces asymmetry, reflecting their inability to reweight sensory information and increased dependence on somatosensory information for maintaining sitting balance when compared to typical children. In the Study 3, we investigate the immediate effects of wearing the suit on sitting posture in different sensory conditions in children with CP, comparing to typical children. For that, we used the same experimental protocol from study 2 and each condition was done with and without wearing an orthotic suit Pediasuit with bungee set up, individualized for each child. Nonlinear measures of CoP variability were added and analyzed by AP and ML approximate entropy (ApEn) and AP and ML Correlation Dimensional (CoD). Suit affects the control of sitting posture in children with CP with different GMFCS levels, decreasing amount of variability, but improves complexity and dimensionaty of degrees-of-freedom, especially in conditions demanding sensory adaptability. The objective of Study 4 was to compare the effect of biomechanical constraints (trunk support) on neural control of head stability during development of trunk control. We used an adjustable external support to isolate and differentiate the effects of biomechanical constraint on specific regions of the trunk. The posterior support was raised or lowered to allow evaluation of four different trunk segments: axillae support, mid-thoracic, waist support and hip support. Data from a previous cross-sectional study and longitudinal study of Saavedra et al. (2015) were used. However, we apply nonlinear measures (complexity –ApEN; dimesionality or CoD; predictability –LyE) specifically to head stability. The effect of external support varies depending on the child’s level of control and diagnostic status. Children with GMFCS V and young TD infants had better outcomes with external support, but external support was not enough to completely correct for influence of CP. Surprisingly, GMFCS IV responded with better outcomes below the level where trunk control was lost, suggesting that they used different compensatory strategies. / O objetivo do presente estudo é investigar os efeitos de fatores extrínsecos no controle da postura sentada em crianças com paralisia Cerebral (PC). Para a melhor discussão dos resultados, dividimos o projeto em 4 estudos. O estudo 1 objetivou descrever sistematicamente as principais características atípicas da postura sentada, os procedimentos metodológicos utilizados, os fatores que influenciam e os principais resultados de protocolos de intervenção no controle da postura sentada em crianças com PC. Evidenciou-se, assim, uma escassez de estudos que investigaram o efeito da manipulação sensorial no controle da postura sentada em crianças com PC. De fato, pouco se conhece sobre como as crianças com PC se adaptam às diferentes informações sensoriais com intuito de manter a orientação postural e a estabilidade. Essa lacuna na literatura incitou a realização de um estudo 2, o qual objetivou comparar o controle da postura sentada entre crianças típicas e de diferentes níveis de GMFCS (Gross Motor Functional Classification System) sob diferentes condições de manipulação sensorial. Para isto, 35 crianças típicas e 36 crianças com PC em níveis de GMFCS I (10), II (8), III (10) e IV (8) foram avaliadas. Eletrodos de eletromiografia foram colocados adequadamente nos músculos eretores espinhais torácicos, lombares e flexores abdominais em ambos os lados. Assim, as crianças foram posicionadas sentadas sobre a plataforma de força. Randomicamente, foram realizadas três coletas de 20 segundos com a criança de olhos abertos (EA) com um período de descanso de 60 segundos entre cada uma delas. Em seguida, foram utilizadas as condições de manipulação sensorial superfície estável olhos fechados (EF), superfície instável, olhos abertos (IA), superfície instável, olhos fechados (IF). As variáveis advindas da análise cinética foram amplitudes anteroposterior (AP) e médio-lateral (ML), velocidades AP e ML, área de oscilação do CoP. As variáveis advindas da análise eletromiográfica foram ativação muscular (root-mean square - RMS) e índice de simetria. Concluiu-se, assim, que em todos os níveis severidade e mobilidade foram capazes de se adaptar à todas as condições de manipulação sensorial na postura sentada. Porém, crianças mais severas parecem ativar excessivamente e de maneira mais assimétrica músculos extensores e flexores de tronco quando submetidas às condições de superfície instável, evidenciando dificuldades no processo de ajuste e organização multissensorial. O estudo 3 objetivou verificar como a órtese Pediasuit influencia na capacidade de adaptação no controle da postura sentada de crianças com PC em diferentes níveis de GMFCS; utilizando assim diferentes condições sensoriais, comparando-as com crianças típicas. Para isto, os mesmos procedimentos do estudo 2 foram utilizados e todas as condições sensoriais foram comparadas sem e com o órtese Pediasuit. As variáveis não-lineares entropia AP, entropia ML, correlação dimensional (COD) AP e ML foram acrescidas. Nesse sentido, abordou-se os benefícios da órtese no controle da postura sentada para todos os grupos GMFCS, evidenciados tanto pela diminuição da variabilidade na oscilação do CoP, como também pela melhora da qualidade da trajetória o CoP, refletida pelo aumento da complexidade e do número de dimensões utilizadas. O estudo 4 objetivou avaliar o efeito das restrições biomecânicas sobre o controle de cabeça em crianças típicas e com PC. Foram utilizados métodos sistemáticos para diferenciar os efeitos da restrição biomecânica em regiões específicas do tronco. Assim, 4 níveis de suporte externo de tronco foram avaliados (axilar, torácico médio, cintura, e quadril-apenas com o cinto pélvico). Para isto, os mesmos dados referentes ao estudo de Saavedra et al. (2015), porém com o uso das medidas não-lineares de complexidade, predictabilidade, graus de liberdade ou dimensionalidade (COD) para ambas as direções AP e ML. O efeito do suporte de tronco se diferenciou de acordo com o nível de controle segmentar de tronco. O suporte axilar ou torácico médio permitiu aos lactentes mais imaturos e às crianças com PC nível de GMFCS V maior complexidade e menor predictabilidade dos movimentos de cabeça. Em contrapartida, as crianças do grupo GMFCS IV apresentaram maior complexidade e menor predictabilidade quando o suporte foi pélvico, ou seja, bem abaixo do nível de controle segmentar dessas crianças; demonstrando que os fatores testados influenciam a organização e a estrutura dos movimentos de cabeça dessas crianças com PC de maneira única. / FAPESP 2012/01252-0

Essa pesquisa constrói uma reflexão sobre o trabalho de El Teatro Campesino, grupo fundado em 1965 na Califórnia com o objetivo de criar peças de agit-prop, chamadas de actos, que propunham discutir temas pertinentes à sociedade camponesa chicana. Dois actos, formulados a partir de criações coletivas, são analisados nessa tese: Quinta Temporada cujo tema central são as greves organizadas na década de 1960 pelo sindicato United Farm Workers (Trabalhadores Agrários Unidos), liderado por César Chávez, militante de enorme importância ao Mexican American Civil Rights Movement (Movimento pelos Direitos Civis dos Mexicano-Americanos) e Vietnam Campesino, marco do teatro militante norte-americano, que discute temas não só relativos à Guerra do Vietnã, mas também a inúmeras outras questões caras à comunidade chicana. Além dos actos, nossa pesquisa também analisa o musical Zoot Suit, de autoria individual de Luis Valdez, fundador do Teatro Campesino, e que alcançou grande projeção ao se tornar a primeira peça de temática chicana escrita por um chicano a ser produzida na Broadway. / This research analyses the work of El Teatro Campesino, a theater group founded in 1965 in California, in order to perform agit-prop plays, called actos. The actos aimed at discussing themes which were relevant to rural chicano society. Two collectivelly created actos are analyzed in this thesis: Quinta Temporada in which the central theme is the strikes organized in the 1960s by the United Farm Workers, conducted by César Chávez, a militant of great importance to the Mexican American Civil Rights Movement and Vietnam Campesino, a milestone of the North-American political theater, which discusses themes related not only to the Vietnam War, but also many other pertinent issues to chicano society. Besides the actos, our research also analyses the musical Zoot Suit, written by Luis Valdez, founder of the Teatro Campesino, which became widely known as the first play concerning chicano themes written by a chicano to be produced on Broadway.