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Submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the Degree of Master of Applied Arts in Fashion, Durban University of Technology, Durban, 2017. / The South African pear-shaped Black women’s jeans market has been confronted by fit dissatisfaction, although there is a growing demand for jeans. This study was approached from a viewpoint that jeans do not fit a large population of this consumer group and investigates the issues related to this problem. Local manufacturers and retailers currently use an adaptation of the British sizing system to suit their customer profile. Not much research however, has been carried out on developing a sizing system for the pear-shaped figure type, which makes up a sizeable portion of the population in the country. The intention of the study was to establish key variables for developing a jeans sizing system for Black South African pear-shaped indigenous women. A total of 60 Black women aged 18-35 years at the Cape Peninsula University of Technology were scanned for body measurements using a 3D body scanner. Body measurement differences were examined by using a quantitative research approach to establish the difference between waist and hip measurements. The findings revealed an average drop value of 39cm between waist and hip circumference for a Black pear-shaped figure, in comparison to a drop value of 24cm for a standardised sizing used by the clothing industry. It is recommended that the major stakeholders in South Africa conduct a national anthropometric study to update sizing systems, by using 3D body scanning technology, which provides accurate and consistent measurements of the human body. / M

The purpose of this research was to establish the relationship between the stylistic changes the men's business suit and the masculine roles as represented in advertising imagery in the United States from 1950 through 1988. The men's business suit is a behavioral expectation for business and professional men often called "white collar workers." The suits are a social product given to change as collective tastes are manifest over time. The masculine role, a set of behavioral expectations dictated by consensus, is also a social product given to change over time. This research examined the relationship between changes in styling of men's business suits, and changes in masculine roles apparent in advertising. A content analysis of men's business suits was executed to quantify the stylistic expressions, manifest in the structural components of the business suit. The classic appearance was represented by a composite illustration and was used as a device against which to compare the dominant style traits apparent in business suits for each decade researched. A survey of advertising and editorial spreads in The New York Times, Esquire and Vogue was combined with a survey of scholarly literature on gender and masculine roles to determine the pervasive masculine roles for each decade. / Master of Science

Garment doffing is recognized as an important element of safety, yet little information exists about doffing. The purpose of this research was to develop a method for kinematic analysis of the doffing process. The specific objectives were to 1) identify the basic critical movements involved in the doffing process of a selected garment style, 2) quantify the movement pattern. and 3) assess the validity of the method and the reliability of the data. To study the movements involved in doffing a nightgown, doffings were recorded by video and WATSMART® (electro-optical) cameras. Relative angular displacement vs. time data were generated from video recordings using the Posture Taxonomy instrument, and from WATSMART recordings using a computer program. The movement experienced by the shoulder and elbow joints were close to the maximum physiologically possible. Twelve critical movements were identified using Roebuck’s terminology. The construct validity of the method was shown to be satisfactory by the convergence of the WATSMART and video position vs. time data. The reliability of the data was assessed in terms of intra- and inter-trial consistency. WATSMART was found to be sensitive enough to discern the differences in consistency due to garment style, subject fatigue, and differing configurations of IREDs. Based on the satisfactory convergence of the data and consistency of the data, it was concluded that using the WATSMART system to kinematically analyze the doffing process was feasible. The degree of fidelity of the garments needs to be established before the method can be adopted for general use, however. / Master of Science

The fit of ready-to-wear clothing is an area of concern for the consumer and the apparel manufacturer. Pants are one of the most difficult artic1es of clothing to fit due to the crotch area. The manufacturer strives to provide the best fit possible, but measurement, and pattern making techniques currently available may not be sufficient to satisfy the fit needs of many of their customers. The purpose of this research was to develop a method for determining the best-fit shape for the crotch seam of men's pants. A measurement method and instrument (flexicurve) for reproducing the crotch shape were developed including identification of the crotch point. Crotch shape reproductions and specific anthropometric measurements were taken from a sample of five subjects. The crotch shapes for each subject (n=3) were aligned on an "x" and "y" coordinate grid using the crotch point and a second reference based on back waist height and a common "x" bar. The shapes were plotted into a load analyzer to establish a data base of "XU and "y" coordinates. Descriptive statistics were used to compare anthropometric data and the standard deviations between shapes within subjects. Crotch shapes were diagrammed using scatter plots. A regression function was modeled to the subjects average crotch shapes to determine the best-fit shape. The method and instrument for crotch shape reproduction seems to have potential, however, were further work needs to be done on the establishment of a second reference point, so that the shapes could be meaningfully analyzed. The best-fit shape differed from the pattern crotch curve, but meaningful analysis was hampered by lack of pre-established, scientifica11y based methods for incorporating ease and style features (such as darts and pleats) being incorporated into the shape of the crotch seam. From this study it has been learned that an instrument can be developed which can identify the crotch point and reproduce the crotch shape for male subjects. Future research needs to be conducted with a larger sample to resolve unanswered questions. / Master of Science