Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Diana Sindicich / With continuing advancements in the area of electronics, there are more ways in which they are utilized in order to improve the lives of humans. These advancements have to led to the incorporation of electronic components into fabric structures, creating electronic textiles (e-textiles). As it has become possible to place small electrical components within clothing without the performance of the electronics being hampered, research has been conducted in the use of e-textiles in measuring aspects of the human body, such as the heart rate and perspiration rate. In the area of skin temperature, research has been conducted in the past using e-textiles for skin temperature measurement, but past efforts have been unsuccessful in incorporating useable temperature sensors into a fabric substrate. This study compared three types of sensors incorporated into woven and knitted fabrics, using insulated thermocouples, un-insulated thermocouples, and resistance temperature directors (RTDs). Three incorporation methods (weaving, interlacing into knit, and stitching) were used in six fabric samples, with the three sensor types woven and stitched into three woven fabric samples, while the sensors were interlaced into knitted fabric and stitched into the three knitted samples. Fabric hand washing and temperature measurement tests were conducted, and the temperature readings were analyzed statistically for comparison. The analysis conducted showed that the thermocouples that were interlaced or stitched onto the knitted fabric samples were best for temperature measurement due to their accuracy and durability, while the RTDs were unusable as a temperature sensor, as the removal of the electrical connectors during washing eliminated the calibration that was established before washing. This research was supported in part by the Institute for Environmental Research at Kansas State University.

Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles and Interior Design / Joy Kozar / This study documents Saudi women who have succeeded in operating their own small businesses, namely in the production of apparel goods. The study notes the reasons that motivate women to establish this kind of work and the factors that help women to be successful in apparel production in Saudi Arabia. Additionally, the study explores the challenges that women encounter in the apparel production field, as well as the commitment women have to offering employment to Saudi girls and young women. This study is important given a lack of appropriate employment opportunities for women in Saudi Arabia and the weak rate of women’s participation in the workforce in Saudi Arabia. Qualitative data was collected to gain in-depth information about the characteristics of successful female entrepreneurs in Saudi Arabia. The current study also adds new insight related to entrepreneurial success and failures, stemming from factors identified by participants. As part of the study, it was discovered that Saudi female entrepreneurs were motivated by financial and non-financial factors, pull and push, and internal and external motives. Personal characteristics of the business owner, the quality of the product produced within the firm, advertising and promotion strategies, family support, previous education, availability of resources, and years of experience were all elements identified by participants as contributing to their success. Obstacles suffered by participants included competition, filing government paperwork, conflict between roles at work and home, marketplace changes, and lack of management skills. Finally, when asking the participants about their ability or willingness to extend their work to accommodate larger numbers of Saudi women, it was found that the business owners had several reasons for not planning to do this, including the lack of the skills needed for this industry upon Saudi women and the preference of Saudi women to work in the service sector.

Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Sherry J. Haar / This study was based on the concept of slow design, proposed after the slow food movement. The idea of slowing down production processes and increasing product quality and value suggests an antidote to the fast cycle of the fashion industry. Slow design supports two principals, inheriting tradition and maintaining eco-efficiency, which guided this project. Inheriting tradition is an expression that explores ways to sustain lost art and traditional heritage in our daily lives, as well as develop products that establish personal meaning for the consumer. Maintaining eco-efficiency of product production involves utilization of eco-friendly materials and sustainable approaches to aid in developing a healthier and cleaner ecosystem. The overall goal of this design research was to celebrate and sustain the spiritual and material civilization of the Chinese culture by creating a modern artistic interpretation of Chinese traditional arts using an environmentally conscious approach that was applicable to apparel design. This research created modern surface design on a group of garments from traditional Chinese Su Xiu embroidery, physical resist techniques, and natural dyes. This practice-based research utilized the paradigm of naturalistic inquiry to guide the stages of this project. A progressive design process was adopted in response to the unexpected events in the final artifact development. In the design exploration stage, a color library was created to provide the color story for the final artifacts. Basic Su Xiu embroidery stitches and traditional physical resist techniques were sampled with selected flosses and fabrics. Various samples were critiqued and analyzed to develop three unique techniques from characteristics of traditional Chinese Su Xiu embroidery, physical resist techniques (Zha Jiao, Feng Jiao, pole- wrapping, and Jia Xie), using natural dyeing techniques with woad and madder. Natural dye findings included using madder to overdye woad to adjust or reverse colors and that woad overpowered the effects of iron and acid premordants. The outcome resulted in a water-inspired series of three garments that showed evidence of simplified traditional techniques with reduced production time, energy, and dyeing material while encompassing elements of traditional art using a modern aesthetic. The designs and process were presented in a public exposition.

Master of Science / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Minyoung Suh / The purpose of this study was to explore printed antennas as an alternative technique for applying hyperthermia treatment. The antenna consisted of a printed ground plane and a thin copper plate. The ground plane was made of silver conductive ink printed on a flexible substrate. The challenge of the printed ground plane was limited conductivity. Multi-layer printing was one of the ways to increase the conductivity of the printed trace. This study examined whether the multiple-layered printings on the ground plane influence the performance of the antenna. The ground plane printed on a flexible substrate was evaluated for its conductivity and capacity to handle the heat energy for the extended time duration at the elevated temperature. This research was conducted in two experimental stages. The first stage of the experiment was designed to test conductivity of the ground plane. Ground planes were printed on a 32.5 mm × 17.0 mm substrate. The thickness and resistance of up to five layers of conductive printing were tested to verify how repeated printing improved the resistance and resistivity. Results showed that the multi-layering technique reduced the resistance of the printed trace, but statistically, the ground plane had no significant improvement in resistance beyond the triple layer printing. With an increase of the thickness, resistivity rather increased after the triple layer printing. The second stage of the experiment was used to assess the performance of the entire antenna. Antennas were fabricated using ground planes with triple and quintuple layers based on resistance and resistivity measurements. The antennas showed an acceptable level of performance in terms of antenna return loss and temperature elevation. The statistical analysis of return loss, power handling capability over the time, and temperature elevation was not significant among the antennas with triple and quintuple layered ground planes. Antennas were able to achieve 42 ˚C within 10 minutes at a 2cm deep location with the return loss of -13.76 dB. Most importantly, experimental results showed that antennas were able to handle 15 watt power without degrading the antenna performance. The antenna showed a successful performance in power handling and reaching the tumor temperature.

Doctor of Philosophy / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Melody L. A. LeHew / The relationship between knowledge, attitudes and behavior has been a subject of interest for researchers for several decades in various fields of study. However, an inconsistency has been found from one study to another with literature showing inconclusive and inconsistent results regarding the relationship between knowledge, attitudes and behavior in general and purchase of eco-conscious apparel in particular. Literature also found perceived characteristics of innovation (PCI) to significantly influencing innovation adoption. However, research investigating the influence of eco-conscious apparel knowledge (EAK) and eco-conscious apparel attitudes (EAA) on intention to purchase eco-conscious apparel (IPEA) that includes PCI has not been conducted in any previously published studies. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate the influential relationship between EAK-EAA-IPEA to understand if including PCI strengthens the inconsistent link between knowledge, attitudes and behavior as well as enhances the predictability of IPEA. The model of stages in the innovation-decision process developed by Roger’s (1983) in the diffusion of innovation theory was used as a theoretical framework for developing the model of innovation-decision process for eco-conscious apparel. Specifically, the three product characteristics used in this current study were based on the PCI (i.e., complexity, compatibility and relative advantage) explained by Rogers (1983) in his model. Two objectives were developed and tested using six research questions and pertinent hypotheses. The research relied on quantitative analysis of responses from 592 respondents to an online survey with eco-conscious knowledge, attitude and behavior questions pertaining eco-conscious apparel products. Hierarchical regression analysis, t-test and correlation analysis reveal that, inclusion of PCI significantly strengthened relationship between EAK-EAA-IPEA and also enhanced the predictability of IPEA; the ability to predict IPEA as well as strength of the link between EAK-EAA-IPEA was greater when more information was provided about eco-conscious apparel than less information; respondents have limited EAK; EAK was not a good predictor of IPEA; EAA was found to significantly predict IPEA; highly innovative respondents perceive eco-conscious apparel less complex and highly compatible and are more likely to purchase eco-conscious apparel; all three PCI were found to significantly predict IPEA; demographic variables were found to be related to only certain variables in this study.