A pesquisa em questão visou demonstrar as vantagens não só comerciais e técnicas, como também, ecológicas e ocupacionais da utilização do ácido cítrico nas empresas de beneficiamento têxtil, em comparação com o ácido acético, objetivando a implantação de um processo de tingimento mais sustentável, visto que, a exigência dos órgãos fiscalizadores tem crescido nos últimos anos e a busca na redução de custos operacionais e adequações ambientais são de vital importância para a sobrevivência e perpetuação das empresas de beneficiamento têxtil. Foram efetuados testes comparativos de medições de pH, neutralização de banhos alcalinos, comparação teórica de biodegradabilidade e danos à saúde e testes práticos comparativos contra dispersantes de tingimento e sequestrante e por fim os resultados práticos de tingimento em escala laboratorial. Os resultados demonstraram a compatibilidade do ácido cítrico frente ao acético no acerto de pH e neutralização de banhos alcalinos, demonstrado a capacidade do ácido cítrico em dispersar corantes dispersos superior à dispersantes de mercado, e superior poder de complexação frente à outros ácidos e ao Ladiquest 1097, e por fim foi constatado com base em dados teóricos a superioridade do ácido cítrico em comparação ao acético em questões ecológicas, possuindo o ácido cítrico valor de DQO em torno de 30% inferior ao ácido acético e toxicidade em torno de 70% inferior e por fim através dos tingimentos realizados pode-se comprovar a eficácia do ácido cítrico em processos de tingimento de poliéster e poliamida sem haver significativa alteração dos processos com ácido acético. A pesquisa pode demonstrar que a substituição do ácido acético, em processos de tingimento, pelo ácido cítrico é perfeitamente viável e além de trazer redução nos custos de processo na ordem de 12% nos tingimentos de poliéster e 0,76 no tingimento de poliamida, trará benefícios ambientais e ocupacionais às empresas que adotarem esta substituição, fazendo com que o ácido cítrico nas empresas de beneficiamento seja considerado um insumo sustentável. / The research in question aimed to demonstrate the advantages not only commercial and technical, but also environmental and occupational use of citric acid in textile dying companies, compare with acetic acid, aiming at implementing a more sustainable dyeing process, as that the requirement of regulatory agencies has grown in recent years and the search on reducing operating costs and environmental adaptations are of vital importance for the survival and perpetuation of textile dyeing companies. Comparative tests were of measurements of pH, neutralization of alkaline baths, theoretical comparison of biodegradability and damage to health and comparative practice tests against dispersants and sequestering dyeing and finally the practical results of dyeing in laboratory scale. The results demonstrated the compatibility of citric acid compare with acetic in the pH adjustment and neutralization of the alkali bath, demonstrated the ability of citric acid in the dispersing disperse dyes upper market dispersants, and higher power as compared to other complexing acids and Ladiquest 1097 and finally based on the environmental data theoretical superiority of citric acid compared to acetic acid, citric acid having a COD value of approximately 30% lower than the toxicity acetic acid and around 70% lower, and finally by the dyes could prove the efficacy of citric acid in polyester and polyamide dyeing processes with no significant change in the processes with acetic acid. The research may show that the substitution of acetic acid, in dyeing processes, the citric acid is feasible and also brings reduction in process costs in the order of 12% in the dyeing of polyester and 0.76%in the polyamide dyeing, will environmental and occupational benefits to companies that adopt this replacement, causing the citric acid in the processing firms is considered a sustainable feedstock.

A pesquisa em questão visou demonstrar as vantagens não só comerciais e técnicas, como também, ecológicas e ocupacionais da utilização do ácido cítrico nas empresas de beneficiamento têxtil, em comparação com o ácido acético, objetivando a implantação de um processo de tingimento mais sustentável, visto que, a exigência dos órgãos fiscalizadores tem crescido nos últimos anos e a busca na redução de custos operacionais e adequações ambientais são de vital importância para a sobrevivência e perpetuação das empresas de beneficiamento têxtil. Foram efetuados testes comparativos de medições de pH, neutralização de banhos alcalinos, comparação teórica de biodegradabilidade e danos à saúde e testes práticos comparativos contra dispersantes de tingimento e sequestrante e por fim os resultados práticos de tingimento em escala laboratorial. Os resultados demonstraram a compatibilidade do ácido cítrico frente ao acético no acerto de pH e neutralização de banhos alcalinos, demonstrado a capacidade do ácido cítrico em dispersar corantes dispersos superior à dispersantes de mercado, e superior poder de complexação frente à outros ácidos e ao Ladiquest 1097, e por fim foi constatado com base em dados teóricos a superioridade do ácido cítrico em comparação ao acético em questões ecológicas, possuindo o ácido cítrico valor de DQO em torno de 30% inferior ao ácido acético e toxicidade em torno de 70% inferior e por fim através dos tingimentos realizados pode-se comprovar a eficácia do ácido cítrico em processos de tingimento de poliéster e poliamida sem haver significativa alteração dos processos com ácido acético. A pesquisa pode demonstrar que a substituição do ácido acético, em processos de tingimento, pelo ácido cítrico é perfeitamente viável e além de trazer redução nos custos de processo na ordem de 12% nos tingimentos de poliéster e 0,76 no tingimento de poliamida, trará benefícios ambientais e ocupacionais às empresas que adotarem esta substituição, fazendo com que o ácido cítrico nas empresas de beneficiamento seja considerado um insumo sustentável. / The research in question aimed to demonstrate the advantages not only commercial and technical, but also environmental and occupational use of citric acid in textile dying companies, compare with acetic acid, aiming at implementing a more sustainable dyeing process, as that the requirement of regulatory agencies has grown in recent years and the search on reducing operating costs and environmental adaptations are of vital importance for the survival and perpetuation of textile dyeing companies. Comparative tests were of measurements of pH, neutralization of alkaline baths, theoretical comparison of biodegradability and damage to health and comparative practice tests against dispersants and sequestering dyeing and finally the practical results of dyeing in laboratory scale. The results demonstrated the compatibility of citric acid compare with acetic in the pH adjustment and neutralization of the alkali bath, demonstrated the ability of citric acid in the dispersing disperse dyes upper market dispersants, and higher power as compared to other complexing acids and Ladiquest 1097 and finally based on the environmental data theoretical superiority of citric acid compared to acetic acid, citric acid having a COD value of approximately 30% lower than the toxicity acetic acid and around 70% lower, and finally by the dyes could prove the efficacy of citric acid in polyester and polyamide dyeing processes with no significant change in the processes with acetic acid. The research may show that the substitution of acetic acid, in dyeing processes, the citric acid is feasible and also brings reduction in process costs in the order of 12% in the dyeing of polyester and 0.76%in the polyamide dyeing, will environmental and occupational benefits to companies that adopt this replacement, causing the citric acid in the processing firms is considered a sustainable feedstock.

Os extratos vegetais amazônicos para uso em beneficiamento têxtil podem ser uma alternativa sustentável e ecológica em relação às atuais matérias-primas utilizadas pelo mercado. Este estudo teve como objetivo efetuar a caracterização físicoquímica de extratos vegetais amazônicos (óleo-resina de copaíba, óleo de castanha do Brasil, óleo de buriti, manteiga de cacau, manteiga de tucumã e manteiga de cupuaçu), preparar emulsões e realizar aplicações preliminares destas em têxteis. A caracterização físico-química foi realizada através das técnicas instrumentais analíticas de espectroscopia de infravermelho por transformada de Fourrier (FTIR) e cromatografia a gás com detecção por ionização de chama (CG-FID). Além disso, foi realizada a determinação do Equilíbrio Hidrófilo-Lipófilo (EHL) das emulsões preparadas a partir dos extratos estudados; seleção da emulsão mais estável por extrato para aplicação por foulardagem; avaliação da oxidação das emulsões aplicadas sobre o material têxtil em diferentes temperaturas (120 a 200ºC); e avaliação sensorial de toque proporcionado pelas emulsões em comparação a um amaciante de uso industrial. Os principais resultados foram que o óleo de castanha do Brasil e as manteigas de cacau, tucumã e cupuaçu apresentaram resultados próximos nas análises por FTIR; a distribuição graxa por cromatografia a gás mostrou-se útil para a caracterização destes extratos vegetais; os valores de referência de EHL para os extratos analisados foram de 7,51 a 10,72 e estão de acordo com a literatura científica (de 6 a 12); os extratos estudados emulsionados nas condições do estudo não possuem tendência à oxidação por temperatura; as médias globais das análises sensoriais de toque indicam um resultado inferior ao padrão comercial, porém, as manteigas de cacau, cupuaçu e o óleo de castanha do Brasil apresentaram os melhores resultados, com notas entre 2,8 e 2,9 (numa escala de 1 a 5). Assim, nota-se que, os resultados obtidos podem ser utilizados como base para pesquisas futuras no sentido de melhorar as formulações das emulsões para a produção de amaciantes ou outros produtos / The Amazonian plant extracts for use in textile processing can be a sustainable and environmentally friendly alternative to the current raw materials used by the market. This study aimed to make the physicochemical characterization of Amazonian plant extracts (copaiba oleoresin, Brazil nut oil, buriti oil, cocoa butter, tucumã butter and cupuaçu butter), prepare emulsions and perform preliminary applications in textile. The physicochemical characterization was performed by analytical instrumental techniques, such as FTIR spectroscopy and gas chromatography with FID detection (GC-FID). Furthermore, the determination of the Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) was performed of the emulsions prepared from the extracts studied; the emulsion more stable for selection extract for application by padding; evaluation of the oxidation of emulsions applied to the textile material at different temperatures (120 to 200C); and sensory evaluation provided by the touch emulsions compared to a industrial softener. The main results were that the Brazil nut oil and cocoa, tucumã and cupuaçu butters showed similar results in the analysis by FTIR; grease distribution by gas chromatography proved to be useful for the characterization of plant extracts; the HLB values for the reference analyzed the extracts were 7.51 to 10.72 are consistent with the literature (6 to 12); the extracts studied emulsified in the study conditions have no tendency to oxidation temperature; the global average of sensory analysis touch indicate somewhat lower than the commercial standard, however, cocoa and cupuaçu butter and Brazil nut oil showed the best results, with grades between 2.8 and 2.9 (on a scale of 1 to 5). Thus, it is noted that the results obtained can be used as the basis for further research in order to improve the formulations of emulsions for the production of fabric softeners or other products

The aim of this research was to find a suitable alternative medium of scarce freshwater for textile dyeing, and to recycle and reuse the dyebath using a combined coagulation/flocculation and novel filter media. Simulated seawater (SSW) was tested as the alternative dyeing medium with a salt concentration of 3.5% where NaCl was the major component. Fibre/dye systems of wool/acid and metal complex, wool/reactive, polyester/disperse, nylon/acid and metal complex, and acrylic/cationicdyes were tested in simulated seawater and the performances of dyed fabric were compared to conventional dyeing system of distilled water (DSW). The study found that commercial dyeing processes were robust and can be practically transferable into the seawater medium. The dye exhaustions, build-up, colour characteristics, and fastness to wash, cross-staining, rub and light were satisfactory within the dye ranges studied, which covers commercially available monochromatic Red, Yellow and Blue at light, medium and deep shades. Although SEM micrographs didn't show any presence of salt, a typical wash-off process of 1gL-1 with a non-ionic detergent at 70°C was sufficient to remove any salt that could be present on the surface or sub-surface of the dyed fabric. At room temperature, some acid and metal complex dyes were only partially soluble in SSW but this improved with gentle heating and addition of levelling agents. At dyeing temperatures near the boil, these dyes were completely soluble. A saturation limit was found to be existed for acrylic dyeing of cationic dyes over 1.0% o.m.f. depth. Although ionic interaction was the dominant mechanism for dyeing of wool, nylon and acrylic fibre with acid, metal complex and cationic dyes, the adsorption in highly saline dyebath most likely depended on the combined effects of ionic and physical/hydrophobic interaction. The resultant effect was higher dye exhaustion and consequently higher colour difference in SSW for some dyes. Reactive dyes were known to be sensitive to hardness of water but this study confirmed that reactive dye could be an alternative for deep dyeing for wool fibre in SSW. Reactive dyeing of wool followed a similar mechanism of gradual phase transfer as was observed for disperse dyeing of hydrophobic fibres over 3.0% o.m.f. depth. In contrast disperse dyeing of polyester produced consistent results for all dyes but some black dyeings produced superior colour strength in SSW. The build-up of colour in SSW compared to DSW can be different depending on the application level. To improve permeate flux by reducing membrane fouling, a number of surface modification were carried out to introduce fluorine based functional groups. Gaseous fluorination, fluorocarbon finish (FC) and plasma polymerisation were performed to introduce hydrophilic and oleophobic properties on supplied Azurtex membrane. The fluorinated Azurtex media exhibited increased wettability although it was not directly proportional to an increase in the fluorination level and treatment time. The water and oil repellency of FC and plasma treated filter media provided a reasonable level of repellency while the contact angle remained in the range of 130 to 145°. Pre-fluorination of filter media before FC treatment didn't change the water and oil repellency. Surface characterisation of Azurtex media was performed with ATR-FTIR, XPS and SEM. An increased level of fluorination at 10%F2 and prolonged exposure showed a degradation of the surface along with colour change. The fluorinated, FC treated and plasma polymerised membrane showed a typical C-F stretching vibration in the region of 1100-1350 cm-1 and weakly at 400-800cm-1. The XPS study showed a gradual increase in the -CF2 and -CF3 functionality signal intensities that resulted in imparting hydrophobicity The benchmarking of these modified Azurtex filter media against newly developed materials proved that plasma treatment improved the flow, reduced turbidity and provided an easy cake removal compared to fluorinated and FC finished filter media. Recycling of exhausted dyebath using a dual component coagulant/flocculant system of Pluspac 2000 and polyanionic Hydrosolanum protein derivative (HPSS) and microfiltration with Azurtex filter media was investigated. The process parameters such as pH and dosage of coagulants/flocculants were very critical during coagulation/flocculation for overall colour removal. The trial with model dye solution in SSW showed that the system worked in the saline environment with a relatively high concentration ratio of coagulant/flocculants but highly depends on the class and structure of dyes. Maximum colour removal was achieved for Lanaset Blue 2R and Sandolan Red MF-GRLN dye and was 89% and 61%, respectively, based on a ratio of 15:10 and 15:15 for PP2000: HPSS at pH 4.0 and 5.0, respectively. The reuse of the dyebath with combined physico-chemical and micro-filtration treatment was demonstrated to be feasible with wool/acid dye system. The colour profile of Lanaset Blue 2R and Sandolan Red MF-GRLN dyed fabrics up to 12th dyeing, with dyebath filtration undertaken after the 3rd /4th/5th reuse of the dyebath, remained comparable to dyeing in fresh baths. The colour strength, K/S, decreased after every filtration and the colour differences, DeltaE increased, but reversed in subsequent dyeing in reused dyebath. The wash and dry rub fastness of the dyed fabrics remained comparable and significant improvements in the abrasion resistance were observed.

Os extratos vegetais amazônicos para uso em beneficiamento têxtil podem ser uma alternativa sustentável e ecológica em relação às atuais matérias-primas utilizadas pelo mercado. Este estudo teve como objetivo efetuar a caracterização físicoquímica de extratos vegetais amazônicos (óleo-resina de copaíba, óleo de castanha do Brasil, óleo de buriti, manteiga de cacau, manteiga de tucumã e manteiga de cupuaçu), preparar emulsões e realizar aplicações preliminares destas em têxteis. A caracterização físico-química foi realizada através das técnicas instrumentais analíticas de espectroscopia de infravermelho por transformada de Fourrier (FTIR) e cromatografia a gás com detecção por ionização de chama (CG-FID). Além disso, foi realizada a determinação do Equilíbrio Hidrófilo-Lipófilo (EHL) das emulsões preparadas a partir dos extratos estudados; seleção da emulsão mais estável por extrato para aplicação por foulardagem; avaliação da oxidação das emulsões aplicadas sobre o material têxtil em diferentes temperaturas (120 a 200ºC); e avaliação sensorial de toque proporcionado pelas emulsões em comparação a um amaciante de uso industrial. Os principais resultados foram que o óleo de castanha do Brasil e as manteigas de cacau, tucumã e cupuaçu apresentaram resultados próximos nas análises por FTIR; a distribuição graxa por cromatografia a gás mostrou-se útil para a caracterização destes extratos vegetais; os valores de referência de EHL para os extratos analisados foram de 7,51 a 10,72 e estão de acordo com a literatura científica (de 6 a 12); os extratos estudados emulsionados nas condições do estudo não possuem tendência à oxidação por temperatura; as médias globais das análises sensoriais de toque indicam um resultado inferior ao padrão comercial, porém, as manteigas de cacau, cupuaçu e o óleo de castanha do Brasil apresentaram os melhores resultados, com notas entre 2,8 e 2,9 (numa escala de 1 a 5). Assim, nota-se que, os resultados obtidos podem ser utilizados como base para pesquisas futuras no sentido de melhorar as formulações das emulsões para a produção de amaciantes ou outros produtos / The Amazonian plant extracts for use in textile processing can be a sustainable and environmentally friendly alternative to the current raw materials used by the market. This study aimed to make the physicochemical characterization of Amazonian plant extracts (copaiba oleoresin, Brazil nut oil, buriti oil, cocoa butter, tucumã butter and cupuaçu butter), prepare emulsions and perform preliminary applications in textile. The physicochemical characterization was performed by analytical instrumental techniques, such as FTIR spectroscopy and gas chromatography with FID detection (GC-FID). Furthermore, the determination of the Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) was performed of the emulsions prepared from the extracts studied; the emulsion more stable for selection extract for application by padding; evaluation of the oxidation of emulsions applied to the textile material at different temperatures (120 to 200C); and sensory evaluation provided by the touch emulsions compared to a industrial softener. The main results were that the Brazil nut oil and cocoa, tucumã and cupuaçu butters showed similar results in the analysis by FTIR; grease distribution by gas chromatography proved to be useful for the characterization of plant extracts; the HLB values for the reference analyzed the extracts were 7.51 to 10.72 are consistent with the literature (6 to 12); the extracts studied emulsified in the study conditions have no tendency to oxidation temperature; the global average of sensory analysis touch indicate somewhat lower than the commercial standard, however, cocoa and cupuaçu butter and Brazil nut oil showed the best results, with grades between 2.8 and 2.9 (on a scale of 1 to 5). Thus, it is noted that the results obtained can be used as the basis for further research in order to improve the formulations of emulsions for the production of fabric softeners or other products

[pt] Esta dissertação descreve a aplicação de Modelos Lineares Generalizados (MLGs) à análise de um experimento visando identificar a combinação dos níveis das variáveis independentes: concentração de hidróxido de sódio (A), volume de hipoclorito de sódio (B) e sua interação (AB), que minimiza a variável resposta: proporção de itens com defeitos, em um processo de beneficiamento numa indústria têxtil de pequeno porte. A variável resposta encontra-se na forma de proporção, violando os pressupostos básicos do Modelo Linear Clássico e com isso as estimativas dos coeficientes pelo método de Mínimos Quadrados Ordinários (MQO) é menos confiável. O planejamento utilizado foi o fatorial completo 22 com ponto central e replicado. Após o planejamento, a modelagem pelo MLG é aplicada, só então é possível identificar uma subdispersão dos dados, verificar que o modelo empregado está correto e que o volume de hipoclorito de sódio (B) é o único fator significativo, no processo de alvejamento industrial da empresa. Portanto, como a finalidade é minimizar a resposta, utiliza-se o nível inferior (-1) desta variável. Consequentemente, como o intuito é reduzir os custos com insumos químicos pode-se utilizar o nível mínimo da concentração de hidróxido de sódio (A) e o nível máximo da interação entre os fatores (AB), já que eles não são significativos ao modelo. / [en] This dissertation describes the application of Generalized Linear Models (GLMs) to the analysis of an experiment with the purpose identify the levels combination of independent variables: concentration of sodium hydroxide (A) volume of sodium hypochlorite (B) and their interaction (AB), that minimizes the response variable: proportion of defective items, in a process in a small plant of the textile industry. The response variable takes the form of a proportion, that violates the basic assumptions of the Classic Linear Model and, as a result, the estimates of the coefficients by Ordinary Least Squares method is less reliable. The design employed was a replicated complete 22 factorial design with central point. After doing the planning, the modeling by MLG is applied, and then it is possible to identify a underdispersion data; to verify that the model used is correct and that the volume of sodium hypochlorite (B) is the only significant factor in the industrial process of bleaching the company. Therefore, as the purpose is to minimize the response, it is used the lower level (-1) of this variable. Consequently, as the aim is to reduce costs of chemical inputs can use the minimum level of concentration of hydroxide sodium (A) and the maximum level of interaction between factors (AB), since they are not significant to the model.