Thesis (M.S.)--University of California, Santa Cruz, 1998. / Typescript. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 76-78).

Thesis (M.S. in Management) Naval Postgraduate School, December 1993. / Thesis advisor(s): Evered, Roger ; Wargo, Linda Ellen. "December 1993." Includes bibliographical references. Also available online.

Thesis (Ph. D.)--University of Chicago, 1966. / "June 1966"--Cover. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 52-56).

Thesis (M.S.)--University of Massachusetts Amherst, 2008. / Includes bibliographical references (p. 392-481).

Thesis (M.S.)--Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, 1994. / Vita. Abstract. Includes bibliographical references (leaves 141-143). Also available via the Internet.

Infragravity waves are low frequency (0.005-0.04 Hz) waves that can dominate the spectrum of water motions and sediment transport processes within the inner surf zone. Despite the established importance of infragravity waves in shaping our coasts and numerous studies dating back to the 1950s, several aspects of infragravity wave analysis, generation and dissipation remain poorly understood. As much of the recent infragravity research has focussed on fetch-limited coasts, less is known about the climatology of these waves on energetic coastlines subject to both swell and fetch-limited waves. It has been postulated that bed friction only plays a significant role in the dissipation of infragravity waves where the bed is exceptionally rough, but the precise impact of bed roughness is not fully understood, particularly on extremely rough rock platforms. Finally, although there have been many methodologies proposed for the decomposition of reflective wave fields (an essential tool for studying infragravity wave dynamics), very little attention has been given to evaluating their accuracy, particularly the impact of uncorrelated noise. This study aims, primarily through the collection of an extensive field dataset and the establishment of accurate analysis tools, to provide new insight into the propagation, dissipation and reflection of infragravity waves on energetic coastlines of varied roughness, subject to both swell and fetch-limited waves. To ensure the accurate decomposition of infragravity wave signals into their incident and reflected components, a sensitivity analysis into the effect of uncorrelated noise on an array separation method is performed. Results show that signal noise, often prevalent in field data, introduces a significant bias to estimates of incident and reflected wave spectra, and corresponding reflection coefficients. This bias can exceed 100% for signal-to-noise ratios of < 1. Utilising the systematic change in coherence with noise, a correction function is developed which is effective at reducing bias by up to 90%. When applied to field data, results imply that infragravity reflection coefficients can be overestimated by > 50% if signal noise is unaccounted for. Consequently, noise reduction should form an integral part of future infragravity wave studies. New research from a dissipative, fetch-unlimited sandy beach (Perranporth, Cornwall, UK) and a macrotidal, rocky shore platform (Freshwater West, Pembrokeshire, UK) uniquely demonstrates that the level of infragravity wave energy close to shore is linearly dependent on the offshore short wave energy flux H_o^2 T_p (r^2 = 0.93and 0.79, respectively). Infragravity waves approach the coast as bound waves lagging slightly (~4 s) behind the wave group envelope and are released in the surf zone where their heights can exceed 1 m. Considerable infragravity dissipation is observed in the surf zone and is a function of both frequency and H_o^2 T_p. Complex Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis reveals (quasi-)standing waves at low infragravity frequencies < 0.017 Hz. Conversely, at higher frequencies (>0.017 Hz), infragravity waves demonstrated progressively more dissipation (up to 90%) and progressive wave characteristics, with increasing frequency. Much of the observed dissipation occurs very close to shore (h < 0.8 m) and the dependence of the reflection coefficient on a normalised bed slope parameter implies a mild sloping bed regime at these high infragravity frequencies, suggesting that the observed dissipation is dominated by wave breaking processes. This is supported by the results of bispectral analysis which show predominantly infragravity-infragravity interactions in shallow water and the development of infragravity harmonics indicative of steepening and eventual breaking of the infragravity waves. This study presents the first simultaneous field observations of infragravity waves on a macrotidal, rocky shore platform and adjacent sandy beach. Infragravity wave dissipation is observed on both the platform and beach and occurs at statistically similar rates, demonstrating that frictional dissipation due to bed roughness is not the dominant dissipation mechanism, even in this extreme case. Sea-swell waves are also unaffected by the extreme roughness of the platform, with relative wave heights on the beach and platform (γ = 0.38 and 0.43, respectively) scaling well with their respective gradients and are in very close agreement with formulations derived from sandy beaches. Overall, bed roughness is shown to have no significant impact on infragravity or sea-swell wave transformation, with offshore forcing and bed slope being the main controlling factors, particularly under moderate to high energy offshore forcing.

The following is a collection of short stories about a mid-Atlantic beach community, the people that leave it, and those that stay. The stories are loosely linked in that all the characters are neighbors, whether they know it or not.

Este estudo tem como objetivo a previsão de impactos gerados por tempestades sobre os sistemas praial e de dunas frontais nas costas Leste (praias expostas) e Norte (praias abrigadas) da Ilha de Santa Catarina. A área de estudo abrange as praias entre a Barra da Lagoa e a Praia da Daniela. As respostas da costa frente aos eventos de tempestades foram classificadas em quatro diferentes regimes: Espraiamento (Swash), Colisão (Collision), Sobrelavagem (Overwash) e Inundação (Inundation). A delimitação entre cada regime é baseada na mais alta e mais baixa elevação vertical do nível d’água em relação às características morfológicas da duna frontal (base e crista). Para a Costa Leste, onde as praias são expostas à incidência de ondas, a máxima elevação do nível do mar foi definida pela soma do wave runup, maré astronômica e maré meteorológica, calculada para quatro distintos períodos de retornos (5, 10, 25 e 50 anos). A mais baixa elevação do mar foi definida como sendo a elevação na qual a praia é, na maior parte do tempo, continuamente submersa. Enquanto que para a Costa Norte, onde as praias são abrigadas da incidência das ondas, a máxima elevação do nível do mar durante eventos de tempestades foi calculada levando-se em consideração a soma das marés astronômica e meteorológicas para cada período de retorno analisado; enquanto que a mínima elevação foi representada pelo nível mais alto da maré astronômica. Em ambas as costas, foram adicionados os valores de elevação do nível do mar baseados nas previsões de pior caso do relatório do Painel Intergovernamental de Mudanças Climáticas. De acordo com este estudo a elevação do nível médio do mar vem ocorrendo em uma taxa de 4 mm/ano com uma aceleração anual de 0,019 mm/ano². Os resultados mostram que para a maioria das praias expostas não houve mudança de regime entre os períodos de retorno analisados. As exceções foram a porção central da praia dos Ingleses que apresentou passagem do regime de sobrelavagem (5 e 10 anos) para o regime de inundação (25 e 50 anos) e a Praia Brava que foi classificada como sujeita ao regime de colisão para o período de retorno de 5 anos passando a ser classificada como submetida ao regime de sobrelavagem para os demais períodos. O regime de sobrelavagem foi predominante para as praias abrigadas, sendo este o único regime registrado em toda a Costa Norte para o período de 50 anos. / This study aims to forecast the impacts of storms on the beache and foredune system along the East (exposed beaches) and North (sheltered beaches) coast of Santa Catarina Island. The study area covers the beaches between Barra da Lagoa and Daniela Beach. The coastal storm response were classified into four different regimes: Swash, Collision, Overwash and Inundation. The limits between regimes are based on the highest and lowest vertical elevation of the water level in relation to the elevation of geomorphic features of the foredune (base and crest). To the East Coast the maximum rise in sea level was defined as the sum of the wave runup, astronomical tide and storm surge, calculated for four different return periods (5, 10, 25 and 50 years). The lowest elevation of the sea is defined as the elevation at below which the beach is, most of the time, continuously subaqueous. On the North Coast the maximum rise in sea level during storm events was calculated taking into account the sum of astronomical and meteorological tides; the minimum level was defined as the maximum vertical range of astronomical tide for each return period. On both coasts the sea level rise (SLR) based on worst-case of the Climate Change Intergovernmental Panel report predictions was added to the maximun and minimum sea level elevation. According to this study the increase on the mean sea level has been occurring at a rate of 4 mm/year with an annual acceleration of 0.019 mm/ano². The results show that most of the exposed beaches did not change their regimes between the return periods analyzed. The exceptions being the Central-North portion of Ingleses, that went from overwash (RP 5 and 10 years) to inundation (RP 25 and 50 years) and Brava which changed from collision (RP 5 years) to overwash regime (RP 10, 25 and 50 years). Overwash was the predominant regime on sheltered beaches, being the only recorded regime for the 50-year return period.

Este estudo tem como objetivo a previsão de impactos gerados por tempestades sobre os sistemas praial e de dunas frontais nas costas Leste (praias expostas) e Norte (praias abrigadas) da Ilha de Santa Catarina. A área de estudo abrange as praias entre a Barra da Lagoa e a Praia da Daniela. As respostas da costa frente aos eventos de tempestades foram classificadas em quatro diferentes regimes: Espraiamento (Swash), Colisão (Collision), Sobrelavagem (Overwash) e Inundação (Inundation). A delimitação entre cada regime é baseada na mais alta e mais baixa elevação vertical do nível d’água em relação às características morfológicas da duna frontal (base e crista). Para a Costa Leste, onde as praias são expostas à incidência de ondas, a máxima elevação do nível do mar foi definida pela soma do wave runup, maré astronômica e maré meteorológica, calculada para quatro distintos períodos de retornos (5, 10, 25 e 50 anos). A mais baixa elevação do mar foi definida como sendo a elevação na qual a praia é, na maior parte do tempo, continuamente submersa. Enquanto que para a Costa Norte, onde as praias são abrigadas da incidência das ondas, a máxima elevação do nível do mar durante eventos de tempestades foi calculada levando-se em consideração a soma das marés astronômica e meteorológicas para cada período de retorno analisado; enquanto que a mínima elevação foi representada pelo nível mais alto da maré astronômica. Em ambas as costas, foram adicionados os valores de elevação do nível do mar baseados nas previsões de pior caso do relatório do Painel Intergovernamental de Mudanças Climáticas. De acordo com este estudo a elevação do nível médio do mar vem ocorrendo em uma taxa de 4 mm/ano com uma aceleração anual de 0,019 mm/ano². Os resultados mostram que para a maioria das praias expostas não houve mudança de regime entre os períodos de retorno analisados. As exceções foram a porção central da praia dos Ingleses que apresentou passagem do regime de sobrelavagem (5 e 10 anos) para o regime de inundação (25 e 50 anos) e a Praia Brava que foi classificada como sujeita ao regime de colisão para o período de retorno de 5 anos passando a ser classificada como submetida ao regime de sobrelavagem para os demais períodos. O regime de sobrelavagem foi predominante para as praias abrigadas, sendo este o único regime registrado em toda a Costa Norte para o período de 50 anos. / This study aims to forecast the impacts of storms on the beache and foredune system along the East (exposed beaches) and North (sheltered beaches) coast of Santa Catarina Island. The study area covers the beaches between Barra da Lagoa and Daniela Beach. The coastal storm response were classified into four different regimes: Swash, Collision, Overwash and Inundation. The limits between regimes are based on the highest and lowest vertical elevation of the water level in relation to the elevation of geomorphic features of the foredune (base and crest). To the East Coast the maximum rise in sea level was defined as the sum of the wave runup, astronomical tide and storm surge, calculated for four different return periods (5, 10, 25 and 50 years). The lowest elevation of the sea is defined as the elevation at below which the beach is, most of the time, continuously subaqueous. On the North Coast the maximum rise in sea level during storm events was calculated taking into account the sum of astronomical and meteorological tides; the minimum level was defined as the maximum vertical range of astronomical tide for each return period. On both coasts the sea level rise (SLR) based on worst-case of the Climate Change Intergovernmental Panel report predictions was added to the maximun and minimum sea level elevation. According to this study the increase on the mean sea level has been occurring at a rate of 4 mm/year with an annual acceleration of 0.019 mm/ano². The results show that most of the exposed beaches did not change their regimes between the return periods analyzed. The exceptions being the Central-North portion of Ingleses, that went from overwash (RP 5 and 10 years) to inundation (RP 25 and 50 years) and Brava which changed from collision (RP 5 years) to overwash regime (RP 10, 25 and 50 years). Overwash was the predominant regime on sheltered beaches, being the only recorded regime for the 50-year return period.

The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is dependent on desalination of seawater to provide new water supplies for the future. Desalination is expensive and it is very important to reduce the cost and lower the energy consumption. Most seawater reverse osmosis facilities use open-ocean intakes, which require extensive pre-treatment processes to remove particulate and biological materials that cause operating problems. An alternative intake is the subsurface system which utilizes the concept of riverbank filtration using wells or galleries and provides natural filtration to improve the quality of feedwater before it enters the desalination plant. This reduces operating cost and lowers energy consumption. Research was focused on evaluating gallery-type intakes (beach and seabed galleries) that could be used along the Northern Red Sea shoreline to provide a better quality feedwater for desalination. The geological characteristics of the visited sites were favorable for the development of seabed filter systems (offshore), but not for beach gallery intakes. The low wave energy along the shoreline and the presence of mud or rocky coasts made beach galleries infeasible. One of the potentially favorable sites for a seabed filter was located in the nearshore area at King Abdullah Economic City (KAEC). This site has a predominantly sandy offshore bottom with shallow water depths, and a low tide range. In addition, the bottom is always covered with water and contains soft limestone unit below the sand mantle that could be easy excavated to facilitate the construction of a seabed filter. About 50 sediment samples were collected from the site and laboratory measurements were performed on them. Grain size distribution, porosity and hydraulic conductivity measurements were performed on the sediment samples. In addition, six statistical methods were used to estimate the hydraulic conductivity values. Based on results of lab measurements, field observations, tide ranges and sediment types, it is concluded that the geological conditions and characteristics of KAEC site are feasible for design and construction of a seabed filtration system. A conservatively designed cell with dimensions of 100 by 50 m would produce about 25,000 m3/day of filtered seawater and seven cells could support a 60,000 m3/day (permeate) seawater RO plant.