To establish the credibility of surface wave measurements from two phased-array WERA HF (High Frequency) radars, SEACOOS (SouthEast Atlantic Coastal Ocean Observing System) funded the Mini-Waves experiment from March to May, 2005. For this study, the surface wave parameter (significant wave height) and directional wave spectrum obtained from two WERA radars were compared with those obtained from two Tri-Axys buoys during the same period. The Wyatt (1990) method was used to obtain the directional wave spectra, and significant wave heights were obtained by integrating the directional wave spectra over all directions and the selected frequency band. The SWAN (Simulating WAve Nearshore) directional wave model was used to evaluate the comparison results between WERA radars and buoys. There was a good agreement between WERA radars and Tri-Axys buoys when the echo-Doppler spectrum had a high 2nd-order SNR (signal-to-noise) ratio. The measurements didn?t agree in low sea states when the echo-Doppler spectrum had a lower SNR. Also, strong horizontal current shear caused by Florida Current (FC) had an effect on wave propagation direction. To improve the quality of WERA radar wave measurements, a longer sampling interval (10-minute interval) and procedures to remove the effect of RFI are needed.

Freak waves suddenly strike the southwest of Taiwan, may cause damages of coastal structures, tourist facilities and endanger maritime navigation. The prediction of swells and large waves is under development. In order to improve out understanding of the characteristics of swells, this study analysis data collected from a nearshore weather bouy and a coastal wave station. The Wave Watch 3 model is applied with several wind fields, and compared results with that of AVISO. The results show that (1) Waters in southwest of Taiwan, in the northeast monsoon season, the peak wave spectral energy tends to sift from short period to longer period, whereas in the southwest monsoon season, the spectrum of energy varies rapidly and is stronger. During the passage of typhoons, swells from the southern tip of Taiwan show stronger energy in the early stage and weaken gradually, on the other hand, swells from the northern tip of Taiwan show increasing energy spectrum to a peak value. The wave energy diminished after typhoon passed Taiwan Strait. (2) The patterns of wave spectrum are related to the winds. A single peak pattern is usually caused by the local winds. A double peaks wave spectrum suggests both local wind and remote forcing. The lower frequency energy is due to swells. (3) In order to separate the swells from the wind waves in the case of double peaks wave spectrum, two methods are applied. For the no typhoon period, a modified ¡¥P-M spectrum¡¦ is useful as well as is the ¡¥derivative energy spectrum¡¦. For the typhoon period, only the later method provides reasonable results. (4) Based on the analysis of separated wave spectrum, the ratio of occurrence is 65% wind wave and 35% swell in the normal days. The ratio varies during typhoon period. (5) The comparisons of Wave Watch 3 model output with AVISO data suggest that the forcing of QSCAT/NCEP Blended wind provides a better result.

No description available.

Wind waves are highly complex, random phenomena. One way to describe the irregular nature of the sea surface is the use of wave energy spectrum. Spectral information for wind waves in the Black Sea is extremely limited. Knowledge on spectral characteristics of wind waves would contribute to scientific, engineering and operational coastal and marine activities in the Black Sea. The aim of the present thesis is to investigate characteristics of wind wave spectra for the Eastern Black Sea. This would allow detailed understanding of the nature of the waves occurring in this enclosed basin. Long-term wave measurements obtained by directional buoys deployed offshore at Sinop, Hopa and Gelendzhik were utilized as the three sets of wave data. Records were analyzed to identify them as uni-modal or multi-modal spectra, and occurrences of spectral peaks were computed. Single peaked spectra were studied as belonging to fully arisen or developing sea states. Model parameters of JONSWAP and PM spectra were estimated for the observed spectra by using a least square error method. The records of developing seas were further analyzed to select the ones belonging to stable wind conditions. Fetch dependencies of non-dimensional spectral variables, mean parameters of JONSWAP model spectrum and the envelop of dimensionless spectra were investigated for this data sub-set.

WiFi can provide network coverage for users on land at anytime and anywhere, but on the sea, the wireless communication scenes change dramatically due to the signals are non-existence. Although some techniques (e.g. satellite, undersea fiber, microwave communication) have been used in marine communication, they are either too expensive with very small bandwidth, or too limited in its coverage range. We propose to develop a marine wireless mesh network which is formed by low cost buoyed wireless base stations to provide broadband connectivity for users on the sea. Ocean wave simulation and prediction are key technologies in developing marine mesh network, because marine environments are dramatically different from terrestrial environment. The ocean waves have characteristics of rhythmic oscillations and the line of sight between two communication nodes is often blocked by them. Therefore, we have to develop a new wave-state-aware networking protocol which is suitable for marine environments. Ocean wave simulation technology can simulate this kind of dynamic environments and provide a test platform for the development of marine mesh network. Ocean wave prediction technology can improve the throughput of marine wireless network. Thus, they are indispensable technologies in developing marine mesh network. In this thesis, we designed an ocean wave measurement method, two ocean wave prediction methods, and an ocean wave simulation method. Firstly, we designed an accelerometer-based ocean wave measurement method. It can measure the real time wave height accurately. Secondly, we designed an Elman-neural-network-based ocean wave prediction method for nonlinear waves. It has a higher prediction accuracy than other neural network methods in nonlinear wave prediction. Thirdly, we designed a multiple-linear-regression-based ocean wave prediction method for linear waves. It has a higher prediction accuracy and less time consumption than other methods in linear wave prediction. Finally, we implemented and improved a spectrum-based ocean wave simulation method which is originally proposed by Tessendorf. It can present the movement of ocean waves realistically and in real time. To sum up, above four methods provide an effective test platform and technical support for the development of our marine mesh network. / Master of Science / With the development of wireless communication technology, WiFi has been an indispensable resource for daily work and pleasure. However, in the marine environments, WiFi is not exist. Thus, passengers and workers on the sea are eager for it. We propose to develop a marine wireless mesh network which is formed by low cost buoyed wireless base stations to provide WiFi for users on the sea. Marine environments are dramatically different from terrestrial environments. The ocean waves have characteristics of rhythmic oscillations and the link between two buoys is often blocked. Therefore, the signals are also intermittent. We decided to develop a new wave-state-aware networking protocol to eliminate the harmful effect of this kind of rhythmic oscillations. Ocean wave simulation and prediction are key technologies in developing networking protocol, in which ocean wave simulation technology can simulate the marine environments and provide a test platform for developing networking protocol. Ocean wave prediction technology can improve the network throughput. Thus, they are indispensable technologies in developing marine mesh network. In this thesis, we mainly research three problems that related to ocean waves, they are ocean wave measurement, ocean wave prediction and ocean wave simulation. Ocean wave measurement can tell us the current wave height of a buoy, ocean wave prediction can tell us the future height of a buoy, after we know these information, we can decide whether allow the buoy to send signal. It can not only save energy, but also improve the success rate of communication. Ocean wave simulation can provide us a dynamic environment to test whether our networking protocol works well. To sum up, these methods provide an effective test platform and technical support for the development of our marine mesh network.

Ocean wave energy is considered to be one of the important potential renewable energy resources for sustainable development. Various wave energy converter technologies have been proposed to harvest the energy from ocean waves. This thesis is based on the linear generator wave energy converter developed at Uppsala University. The research in this thesis focuses on the foundation optimization and the power absorption optimization of the wave energy converters and on the wave climate modelling at the Lysekil wave converter test site. The foundation optimization study of the gravity-based foundation of the linear wave energy converter is based on statistical analysis of wave climate data measured at the Lysekil test site. The 25 years return extreme significant wave height and its associated mean zero-crossing period are chosen as the maximum wave for the maximum heave and surge forces evaluation. The power absorption optimization study on the linear generator wave energy converter is based on the wave climate at the Lysekil test site. A frequency-domain simplified numerical model is used with the power take-off damping coefficient chosen as the control parameter for optimizing the power absorption. The results show a large improvement with an optimized power take-off damping coefficient adjusted to the characteristics of the wave climate at the test site. The wave climate modelling studies are based on the wave climate data measured at the Lysekil test site. A new mixed distribution method is proposed for modelling the significant wave height. This method gives impressive goodness of fit with the measured wave data. A copula method is applied to the bivariate joint distribution of the significant wave height and the wave period. The results show an excellent goodness of fit for the Gumbel model. The general applicability of the proposed mixed-distribution method and the copula method are illustrated with wave climate data from four other sites. The results confirm the good performance of the mixed-distribution and the Gumbel copula model for the modelling of significant wave height and bivariate wave climate.

Este texto trata da estimação de espectro direcional de ondas a partir de movimentos de primeira ordem de sistemas oceânicos estacionários utilizando um método de inferência bayesiano. Após descrição do método e discutidas suas principais fontes de incertezas, este foi validado experimentalmente através de ensaios com dois tipos de embarcações para ondas irregulares e mares bimodais, e verificado com dados de monitoração em escala real. Uma comparação preliminar com dados provenientes de um radar próximo ao sistema monitorado também foi feita. Com base nestes resultados, discute-se a eficiência do método e suas limitações. / This text is about estimating directional wave spectra based on first order motions of stationary systems by means of a bayesian inference method. After being described the method and its main sources of uncertainties discussed, an experimental validation was carried out with two different types of hulls for irregular waves and bimodal seas, with a posterior verification using data from a real scale monitoring campaign. Also, a preliminary comparison with data from a radar in the vicinities of the monitored system was made. Based on those results, the methods efficiency is discussed, along with its limitations.

A method of inferring tropospheric gravity wave source characteristics from middle atmosphere observations has been adapted from previous studies for use with MF radar observations of the equatorial mesosphere-lower thermosphere at Christmas Island in the central Pacific. The nature of the techniques applied also permitted an analysis of the momentum flux associated with the characterised sources and its effects on the equatorial mean flow and diurnal solar thermal tide. An anisotropic function of gravity wave horizontal phase speed was identified as being characteristic of convectively generated source spectra. This was applied stochastically to a ray-tracing model to isolate numerical estimates of the function parameters. The inferred spectral characteristics were found to be consistent with current theories relating convective gravity wave spectra to tropospheric conditions and parameters characterising tropical deep convection. The results obtained provide observational constraints on the model spectra used in gravity wave parameterisations in numerical weather prediction and general circulation models. The interaction of gravity waves with the diurnal solar thermal tide was found to cause an amplification of the tide in the vicinity of the mesopause. The gravity wave-tidal interactions were highly sensitive to spectral width and amplitude. Estimates were made of the high frequency gravity wave contribution to forcing the MSAO with variable results. The data used in the analysis are part of a large archive which now has the potential to provide tighter constraints on wave spectra through the use of the methods developed here. / http://proxy.library.adelaide.edu.au/login?url= http://library.adelaide.edu.au/cgi-bin/Pwebrecon.cgi?BBID=1352362 / Thesis (Ph.D.) -- University of Adelaide, School of Chemistry and Physics, 2009

Este texto trata da estimação de espectro direcional de ondas a partir de movimentos de primeira ordem de sistemas oceânicos estacionários utilizando um método de inferência bayesiano. Após descrição do método e discutidas suas principais fontes de incertezas, este foi validado experimentalmente através de ensaios com dois tipos de embarcações para ondas irregulares e mares bimodais, e verificado com dados de monitoração em escala real. Uma comparação preliminar com dados provenientes de um radar próximo ao sistema monitorado também foi feita. Com base nestes resultados, discute-se a eficiência do método e suas limitações. / This text is about estimating directional wave spectra based on first order motions of stationary systems by means of a bayesian inference method. After being described the method and its main sources of uncertainties discussed, an experimental validation was carried out with two different types of hulls for irregular waves and bimodal seas, with a posterior verification using data from a real scale monitoring campaign. Also, a preliminary comparison with data from a radar in the vicinities of the monitored system was made. Based on those results, the methods efficiency is discussed, along with its limitations.

Les récentes paramétrisations utilisées dans les modèles spectraux de vagues offrent des résultats intéressants en termes de prévision et rejeux des états de mer. Cependant, de nombreux phénomènes physiques présents dans ces modèles sont encore mal compris et donc mal modélisés, notamment le terme de dissipation lié au déferlement des vagues.Le travail présenté dans cette thèse vise dans un premier temps à analyser et critiquer les paramétrisations existantes de la dissipation, au travers de la modélisation explicite des propriétés du déferlement sous-jacentes. Du constat de l’échec de ces paramétrisations à reproduire les observations in situ et satellite du déferlement, une nouvelle méthode d’observation et d’analyse des déferlements est proposée à l’aide de systèmes de stéréo vidéo. Cette méthode permet l’observation des déferlements sur des surfaces de mer reconstruites à haute résolution par stéréo triangulation. Ainsi, une méthode complète de reconstruction des surfaces de mer en présence de vagues déferlantes est proposée et validée. La détection des vagues déferlantes sur les images et leur reprojection sur les surfaces reconstruites est également discutée. Bien que peu d’acquisitions soient disponibles, les différents paramètres observables grâce à l’utilisation de la stéréo vidéo sont mis en avant. Ce travail montre l’intérêt des systèmes vidéo stéréo pour une meilleure observation et compréhension du déferlement des vagues, pour le développement des paramétrisations de la dissipation dans les modèles spectraux de vague. / The recent parameterizations used in spectral wave models provide today interesting results in terms of forecast and hindcast of the sea states. Nevertheless, many physical phenomena present in these models are still poorly understood and therefore poorly modeled, in particular the dissipation source term due to breaking. First, the work presented in this thesis is aimed at analyzing and criticizing the existing parameterizations of the dissipation through the explicit modeling of the underlying properties of breaking. The finding of the failure of these parameterizations to reproduce the in situ and satellite observations, a new method for the observation and the analysis of breaking is proposed using stereo video systems . This method allows the observation of breaking waves on the high-resolution stereo-reconstructed sea surfaces. Therefore, a complete method for reconstruction of the sea surfaces in the presence of breaking waves is proposed and validated.The detection of breaking waves on the images and their reprojection on reconstructed surface is also discussed. Although too few acquisitions are available to draw firm results, an overview of the various observable parameters through the use of stereo video is given.This work shows the importance of stereo video systems to a better observation and understanding of the breaking waves, required in order to improve dissipation source term in spectral wave models.